What's new
  • As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.

Fml please help new 4k Room issues...

x4 1k's in 8" Cooltubes
8" Max canfan for light run (total length intake to discharge is 20')
8" Vortex fan for filter
12x9 Room
DTW Top feed Coco with multifeeds
Room is holding solid at 27C / 80 F - Hum is 27%
Outside temp is currently 3C / 37.5 F
Plants are not in the room yet

There's a 6'x4' window in the room. Framed it in to cool the light run as well as provide a passive intake for fresh air. There is x2 4" holes in the window box to provide the passive intake.

Both ducting runs vent through the door and into the hallway.

The plan is to use use the heat from the room to warm the rest of the house (as much as possible).

I'm worried about the VPD but the plants are not in the room yet so that will change.

Issue I'm having is that I figured I should be able to get the room much cooler given the outside temps and the velocity of the fans.

The air coming out of the vents on the other side of the door into the hallway is anything but warm so I'm not heating fuck all in the house either.

Do I have way too much cfm going through the light run? Should I be using a speed controller?

Do i need more passive vents to allow more flow into the room? I figured that I would be able to throw the Fan/Filter on a thermostat and have that bitch cool down in no time but thats not the case...

I'm also creating allot of positive pressure in the rest of the house so I had to open a small window to deal...

Thanks for any input...
 

Hookah79

Active member
Do you have a fan bringing air from outside or is it just the window opening?.Try slowing down you light venting fan.
 

Lazyman

Overkill is under-rated.
Veteran
Took me a couple read through but I think I get it. You're pulling 37.5f air through the fans and exhausting it into the house, and it's still cold, right? It's not uncommon for grows to have winter and summer configurations. Yours sounds like a good summer setup, bUT when it's hot out you'll want the exhaust to go anywhere but in your house. To keep noise down, large fans slowed down with a speed controller will move more air and are way quieter than screaming 6s and 8s.

You can try a fan speed controller on the light ducting, but you may need to pull (filtered) room air instead of outside air to get heat. Draw from the ceiling with a carbon filter then push it into your house when it's cold out.

If you want to get fancy, you can put a sheetmetal wye on the intake, and motorized dampers (one normally open, one normally closed) for the intake opening. When it's cold out, a thermostat closes the outside opening and opens the inside (room) damper, and vice versa.
 

Phaeton

Speed of Dark
Veteran
I heat my house with waste heat from the garden. Yesterday the outside temperature was -8 F and the living areas held at 71 F and the grow rooms themselves kept 78 F.

The two intake fans are 2500 CFM each and airflow is regulated by the exhaust vent opening.
The outside access intake has a pair of 1000 CFM fans pulling air in through an adjustable blending vent. The house exhausts are adjustable at opposite sides of the house, sometimes the wind decides the settings.

For summer there is a pair of fans pulling 20,000 CFM through the house from pair of shaded 4' x 4' vents.

It works well enough I removed the furnace from the house last year.
The limit is -20 F before the lights lose the fight. Back before global warming it would reach -40 on a regular basis, weeks at a time. Last year Alaska did not reach zero and this year is close enough to the same. This being a continuation of a fifty year trend I took the chance.

Back to the subject, to warm the house effectively a great deal of air movement is required.
Heat from the grow room at 85 F takes five or six times more air as 180 F air from a furnace would need to transfer the same amount of heat.

For reference, my house is a two story with 1700 square feet of floorspace. Six inches fiberglass insulation in the walls and twelve inches in the ceiling.

Three separate configurations were attempted over the years before getting even temperatures throughout the house.
 
Thanks for the tips and responses...

I definitely wouldn't be running this setup for summer... Usually exhaust outside and run lights at night to combat high summer temps in these parts. Just never ran 4k before and also trying to do it without plugging in an AC unit in November ffs.

I hear you on pulling the air from the room instead of outside so that it actually heats the house.. Just not sure wtf that is going to do to my ambient temps in the room once there is room temp air going through 4k watts of cooltubes VS the cold outside air.

One way to find out I guess....
 

Phaeton

Speed of Dark
Veteran
does it reek everywhere when you are in flower?
It is like living on a farm, after a day or two the barn smells the same as anywhere else.
Unless you leave for a whole day, then the nose has to readjust upon return.
I do not notice the smell, but yes, others can smell the crop at some distance from the house.
It has been legal here since 1972 and I live in a nice neighborhood.
No problems with any neighbors except one, he thinks I give him too much stash when he plows my driveway.
 

EastCoast710

Well-known member
Veteran
take the ducting for the light run.. and use the house air from another room to be intake.. and exhaust it into a diff room heating the house.. then use carbon filter as your exhaust .. and instead of a passive intake.. get a fan on a speed controller and a temp controller.. so u can get the perfect AC temp air coming in when u want.... I think when you bring plants intot hat grow it will stay the same .. so id setup a real intake ..

I use a real intake on speed and temp controller.. and it kicks on and off to get the temps perfect allt he time.
 

~star~crash~

Active member
It is like living on a farm, after a day or two the barn smells the same as anywhere else.
Unless you leave for a whole day, then the nose has to readjust upon return.
I do not notice the smell, but yes, others can smell the crop at some distance from the house.
It has been legal here since 1972 and I live in a nice neighborhood.
No problems with any neighbors except one, he thinks I give him too much stash when he plows my driveway.


that's awesome & you R brilliant!:) i am wasting 3000kwatts of heat 12/ hours per day right on up & out
 
Cant thank you enough for the responses.

Problem is no more.

Sucking air from inside the room and exhausting into the hallway. Using the old flange on the window box as a passive duct line / AC line but I dont even need to use that fan to cool the room. the passive draw from the window is more than enough now.

So with all 4k burning i am stable at 75F. If I turn on the other 8" and blow in air from outside, i can get the temps as low as I want.

Fuck yeah boys. Room is cool now, house is warmer than fuck, most of all wife is happy.

thank you kindly!

-gtg
 
take the ducting for the light run.. and use the house air from another room to be intake.. and exhaust it into a diff room heating the house.. then use carbon filter as your exhaust .. and instead of a passive intake.. get a fan on a speed controller and a temp controller.. so u can get the perfect AC temp air coming in when u want.... I think when you bring plants intot hat grow it will stay the same .. so id setup a real intake ..

I use a real intake on speed and temp controller.. and it kicks on and off to get the temps perfect allt he time.

Thanks again brother. Spot on advice.
 

mello

New member
My minds boggled on this..
please explain the scenario without air cooled lighting such as bare bulb active intake and exhaust while recycling exhausted air for supplemental heat in the winter
 

EastCoast710

Well-known member
Veteran
My minds boggled on this..
please explain the scenario without air cooled lighting such as bare bulb active intake and exhaust while recycling exhausted air for supplemental heat in the winter

u cant do it really because all of the humidity.. that's why aircooled hoods have there advantages in some cases..
 

mello

New member
Yea I couldn't wrap my head around it makes sense now

Perhaps the cooltubes will have their place in the winter seems worth the advantage of supplemental heat I don't like waste
 

mello

New member
5 x 10 room 2k vert 6 trees

Winter
Cooltubes suck room temp air in exhaust thru lights into another room supplementing heat to house
Intake in from fancy damper in ceiling sucks cold air from attic for cooling

Summer
Cooltubes exhaust outside
Intake damper closed reconfigured to suck AC for cooling

I'm sure I'll have to get creative on the ductwork but I've got the concept ?
 

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top