Flower to Rosin to cart problem

[windtrader2]

Recently started pressing flower into rosin, collecting it and loading into carts. First hurdle was finding carts that handle thick oil. Next hurdle was thinning oil a bit; cleared that one using terps.



Freshly loaded carts worked fine but clogging started and got worse until it stopped vaporizing.



Learned that fats, lipids, waxes are in the rosin and clog carts. Winterizing is a process that removes this bad stuff from the rosin while retaining the THC and terps, the good stuff.



Various options including QWET, QWISO, etc. use solvents. So nice clean solvent-less rosin gets washed by solvents.


At this point, if adding extra post press steps to remove the fats, etc., why not simply do a solvent wash directly on the flower?



Still looking for but never found a document covering the major points, pros/cons, of each of the major extraction processes. For example, does QWET result in greater yield than pressed rosin?



Going to do a couple control tests using both methods and assess the results and effort to produce the results.


One other option not yet trialed is RTA or rebuildable tank atomizer. These seem plenty powerful and customizable/adjustable enough to vaporize any pressed rosin. The fact the cotton wicking is replaceable seems like a good way around clogging carts.



Lots of options but the journey has been fun enough, time to get to the station and call this trip done.

 

[GOT_BUD?]

Recently started pressing flower into rosin, collecting it and loading into carts. First hurdle was finding carts that handle thick oil. Next hurdle was thinning oil a bit; cleared that one using terps.



Freshly loaded carts worked fine but clogging started and got worse until it stopped vaporizing.



Learned that fats, lipids, waxes are in the rosin and clog carts. Winterizing is a process that removes this bad stuff from the rosin while retaining the THC and terps, the good stuff.



Various options including QWET, QWISO, etc. use solvents. So nice clean solvent-less rosin gets washed by solvents.


At this point, if adding extra post press steps to remove the fats, etc., why not simply do a solvent wash directly on the flower?



Still looking for but never found a document covering the major points, pros/cons, of each of the major extraction processes. For example, does QWET result in greater yield than pressed rosin?



Going to do a couple control tests using both methods and assess the results and effort to produce the results.


One other option not yet trialed is RTA or rebuildable tank atomizer. These seem plenty powerful and customizable/adjustable enough to vaporize any pressed rosin. The fact the cotton wicking is replaceable seems like a good way around clogging carts.



Lots of options but the journey has been fun enough, time to get to the station and call this trip done.

You ran into the same problem I did which is why I gave up trying to chase carts and went to a vaporizer on one of my box mods for my rosin.

Use one with a ceramic disc instead of a cotton wick because the cotton doesn't wick rosin. As you found out when you tried to use a pen cart.

 

[EsterEssence]

Most people use vapor pens that you put a small amount of rosin on the coils. There have been a lot of people who have tried to dilute or change the viscosity of the rosin so it will work in a cart without much luck. Read the true terpenes thread, people thought they were using terpenes, so maybe try to get some terpenes to dilute it...

 

[windtrader2]

Ha, "chasing" is the operative word. Sure does feel like that but keep going while watching all these videos showing how easy, great, and clarity of the results.


Have some Ethanol arriving tomorrow. If the next test batches don't deliver, the RTA, maybe RBA route looks promising. Just blast that shit with some real power, good delivery rate, and air flow; what can go wrong? lol

 

[Dr.NO]

I recently saw a post on IG from @lovin_in_her_eyes where she made ice water hash then rosin from that and then heated it using "jar tech," and that made it the right consistency for carts.

I'm not sure exactly how it works but it's worth checking out.

 

[Self Sufficient]

You got your fresh pressed rosin in a jar yea? Next you put that puppy in a low temp oven around 110*. Pop that bad boy after 24hours. Repeat for a week or 2. Now you've got that vape pen consistency and a clear rather than cloudy color. Bam.

 

[TedNugget]

I read that if you press with a 25u screen it will trap any of the waxes/lipids. (not sure if 37u could achieve the same thing?)

I have no idea what the yield would be like with flower though as I believe those size screens are meant for pressing hash.

I have noticed that I get better results with my carts when pressing rosin with a screen though. Last one I did 90u, dissolved with a product called servm (I think it’s just more concentrated terpenes I believe, but it’s specifically made for turning rosin into carts. Edit - stay away from any of these diluent products! Mass terpenes (who make servm) is one of the companies potentially in hot water), then filled a cart and had good results. I am very new at this, though.

My best result came from pressing bubble in a 25u screen. Obviously not as tasty as flower rosin but it did not clog at all on me.

 

[Mikell]

Bubble is the best. The meltier the better.

Good sift too. Jungle Boys rosin carts are made with static sift if rumour is true. Some people cut with distillate like Rocky Mountain Rosin to increase flow.

The "25u screen blocks fat/wax" claim is a myth from social media not even backed up by a simple winterized test.

 

[TedNugget]

Bubble is the best. The meltier the better.

Good sift too. Jungle Boys rosin carts are made with static sift if rumour is true. Some people cut with distillate like Rocky Mountain Rosin to increase flow.

The "25u screen blocks fat/wax" claim is a myth from social media not even backed up by a simple winterized test.

Well, damn. Thanks. I was hoping I could avoid having to de-wax if I used those screens.

So is there any real point to using the 25u bags when pressing the bubble from the higher micron bags (70/120/160)?
I assume I want to use a 25u bag when pressing the 25u bubble.

 

[mr underhill]

you just need to add a dewaxing tube/chamber to your blast tube, a magnetic stirring unit and *poof* the mystery of rosin and shatter into carts reveals itself.

 

[Mr. J]

The e-cig guys are light-years ahead of you guys. You guys are literally using technology that was obsolete well over 6 years ago when I quit cigarettes. I'm still a bong man but if I wasn't, I have a drawer full of old RDA's and RBA's that would blow those old carts out of the water.

Personally, if I was a concentrate guy I'd break out a dripper and build something like a 1ohm flat coil (like the burners on your stove) with 24ga kanthal and drip my rosin straight on it.

After I stopped buying new gear they were all using temperature control units with stainless or titanium coils. I would imagine that you could rig up a really nice portable dabber with that.

 

[mr underhill]

it is so much simpler than any of that.

twisted extracts.
never met the guy but worth checking out. Puts undiluted rosin and bho into pen carts. No PG, VG or dab mix although in his process you can add back terp sauce if desired.
I was going through all the trouble of a distillate process but I think the BHO and rosin carts taste way better without needing to add terp sauce.
a buddy sent me a link to his methods and have been making my carts like that ever since. small time mind you.

 

[watts]

cool, if you could post that link that would be great.

 

[mr underhill]

you use Ccell carts and a variable temperature magnetic stirrer
one of these-> CO-Z Magnetic Stirrer Mixer Lab Mixer Magnetic Spinner Hotplate with Heating Plate 85-2 Digital Magnetic Mixer, 300W, 1000ml

so using that gizmo, which is really cheap off of amazon.
put your rosin in container, I use a silicon dab puck but for anything more than a few grams you'll want a straight walled temperature safe glass vessel.
drop the magnet pill that comes with the unit into the vessel and start the process

start at 40C and once it hits temp, ramp to 50C, then to 60C bringing it up slowly.
Hold at 60C until the big bubbles stop, about an hour, and ramp down to 50C and hold for about 10 minutes. Then ramp down to 40C and begin filling your Ccell carts with a syringe. you do have to be prepared and work fast.
apparently there are now heatgun style cart filling units starting to pop up for sale out there and one of those would be a great idea.

 

[windtrader2]

I read that if you press with a 25u screen it will trap any of the waxes/lipids. (not sure if 37u could achieve the same thing?)

I have no idea what the yield would be like with flower though as I believe those size screens are meant for pressing hash.

I have noticed that I get better results with my carts when pressing rosin with a screen though. Last one I did 90u, dissolved with a product called servm (I think it’s just more concentrated terpenes I believe, but it’s specifically made for turning rosin into carts), then filled a cart and had good results. I am very new at this, though.

My best result came from pressing bubble in a 25u screen. Obviously not as tasty as flower rosin but it did not clog at all on me.

In possession of the MassTerpenes Servm but not run trail with it as yet. Still not convinced exactly what it is and how it treats the fats, lipids, and waxes in the rosin such that carts don't clog. Really dislike failed experiments that clog carts as removing and loss of material is an unpleasant task.


Have done several more tests doing QWISO and QWET on deep cold frozen cured flower and solvent using dry ice. Winterizing clearly removes junk from the crude. Not decarbing since not for edibles and lack of THCA that needs converting.


First filter is coffee filter which is about 10 micron. Whatman #1 filter works well too; rated around 10 micron as well. Just received some Whatman 597 filters that are specifically designed for use on fat material.


AC (activated charcoal) and DE (diatomaceous earth) filtering not in the workflow as it really needs a vacuum setup, even manual pump for small batch testing.

 

[Mikell]

This is just second hand but a few guys I know who diy'd said not decarbing leads to sugaring in the cart.

 

[Ringodoggie]

If you want to do small test batches of filtering, I love my Buchner Funnel and a tiny vacuum pump. I run plenty of rosin tests of only about a gram. I think it's a 45ml. Takes a perfect 1" filter. I have a 1" punch and can make a filter out of so many things very easily.


Kudos to Earnst Buchner for this one.

 

[mr underhill]

with rosin and carts you will always be bound by the constraints of that process. Pretty hard to remove waxes and lips without extracting them some how.
That said, the rosin carts are possible, people are doing it and without any cutting agents,

personally I would take the rosin, dissolve it in everclear/grain alcohol and winterize it then vacuum purge. Then to the magnetic stirrer and into my carts.

BHO is easier as dewaxing/winterizing can be included in the initial draw.
I don't have any rosin on hand to experiment with at the moment but when I do I'll go thru the process and take some pictures. Could be a while but I won't forget.

 

[osirica420]

all you guys gotta do is winterize it in ISO in the freezer overnight and vacuum pump it in the morning and evaporate on low temp...

thread answered!

 

[Mikell]

That's exactly what most are trying to avoid.


80% qwet 20% decarbed rosin is working well so far. Let out a sample cart to a friend. The taste is there but not as strong as I would like.

Got a shit load of dried and frozen coming up to process that I will be using to test straight rosin carts with.

I've heard rumour of using a heated centrifuge to separate.

Anyone have one and some rosin they want to sacrifice?

Pretty small tubes on the ones I've seen though.