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flip flop+ballast's

reaperz

Member
"The ballast is always on. It does not require any warm up. The bulb requires the warm up. When an "on" ballast is flipped to an off bulb it acts no different than if you simply turned on the switch for any single light.

The reason that a large relay is needed is not for engaging an unlit bulb but rather for disengaging a lit one. As the relay contacts are pulling apart they are going to pull an arc untill the gap is large enough for current flow to extinguish. Remember that voltage is very high on that side of the ballast which makes arcing worse. This constant arcing is what destroys relay contacts, hence, get a big one.

That "spike" thing is a myth.

When a HID light is first turned on, the current draw is very low since the resistance inside the bulb is high. As the bulb warms up the plasma decreases resistance and the current rises as the bulb grows brighter."

can anyone confirm that ballasts do not create spikes? why do people say they do then? i always thought they created spikes in order to warm up the bulbs or something
 

badmf

Active member
You will get a surge when it first comes on, to check it, set a timer and stand by the meter or get a multi-meter. The flip-flop saves buying two ballasts but for the cost of the flip/flop I'll pass. Rather; set up a reflector on a rail to stay on 24. Light one side for 12 then the other for 12. Trick is getting it auto and having a light proof curtain that will accomate the move!
 

reaperz

Member
so the first time it comes on, there will be a surge but after when the flip flop, flip flops no surge is created?
 
How and why the hell would you make a rail for the light to "travel" from room to room?a properly built flipflop can be had for about 50$ even cheaper if you hunt around.
I am pretty sure somthing changes with the draw on the ballast when the flip hapens all of mine seemed to change pitch for a bit right after the relay fliped the power.
 
Sad247summer said:
How and why the hell would you make a rail for the light to "travel" from room to room?a properly built flipflop can be had for about 50$ even cheaper if you hunt around.
I am pretty sure somthing changes with the draw on the ballast when the flip hapens all of mine seemed to change pitch for a bit right after the relay fliped the power.



flipflop for $50!?!?!?....WHERE!!!.... :yummy: :yummy:
 

badmf

Active member
If you're "thinking" you'd see a rail costs a fraction of the flip and what we're talking about here is saving over a 2nd ballast. An inexpensive motor on a timer and you can move the reflector(s) into the adjacent grow space. And without worrying if you wired it correctly, (remember that ground wire!) LOL.
I do agree if you are handy enough to build this set up its definitely cheaper than the "store" bought ones but I don't want the Fire Dept. at my house either. I always up the wiring to a much higher than needed rating , as playing it safe keeps you playing. The pitch changes as the "new" bulb is started, its as if it was re-started.
 
D

DB2004

BrainOGrefuGee said:
"total $94 from home depot

now 4 relays from the intenet $20 x 4 = $80

GRAND TOTAL .....$174 (for a 8 light flip/flop)"

$50???


Home Depot does not sell the correct relays for a flip. You must use 1 DPDT relay for each ballast/2bulbs.

DB2004
 
Anybody could make a light rail move the light from room to room the problem is doing it without light leaks.
A decent 6-8ft motorised light rail runs over $200 in AK and a bit cheaper online, it might leave some peace of mind, but if you know what you are doing its not a problem.
I for one loved having 2 1KW rooms and 1 2KW room using 2 ballasts and 2 relays makes breeding and keeping a consistent cycle GREAT!!!
Home depot in AK does sell the DPDT relays for some HVAC crap, but its not a super common part they can be found for $15-35 depending where you shop.
The price in that post is for a 4 ballast unit and it has a fancy case and Spiffy
ground wires.
IMO there is a bit of a power surge when the flip hapens, enough to charge the starter/capacitor a coupla times for the strike.
 

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