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First time vert: stadium,2k, blumats, K.I.S.S.

Iso

Member
Sick setup you got going there, it is going to turn into a freakin' jungle soon. One tip, you will probably need to light seal the AC once it is in. I assume you are running your lights at night to avoid the heat of the day and I know my AC leaked light like a mofo. I took it apart and totally foil taped it but it still leaked light so I ended up using a water based spray paint and painted the styrofoam from the inside. Do not use regular spray paint as it will melt the styrofoam. Krylon H2O is what I used. And welcome to the vert family, we are a great bunch of blokes.


Glad you like the set up man, I have all of you @ this forum to thank, thats for sure. :huggy: I would of never thought of some shit like this, if not for all you guys @ icmag.... especially big props to selfhemployed. His vert thread was my biggest inspiration. Also, all you guys rep'n the blumats, these things are genius... my back thanks you for get'n me hip to these!:thank you::thank you::thank you:

This is the A/C Im waiting for:
createthumbimage
Model: ARC-13W
Frost white color
13,000 BTU Cooling
Self evaporating design exhausts most or all condensate automatically
Digital remote control
Automatic comfort and night program
LCDI (Leakage-Current Detection and Interruption) plug
Dehumidifying Capacity: 43 Pts / day
Designed to provide quiet and efficient cooling to any room, with no permanent installation
3 fan speeds
Two easy clean air filters
Full thermostatic control (64 - 86 degrees)
Pull handle belt and casters for easy mobility
24 hour programmable timer
Extendable exhaust hose (up to 5ft.)
Upgraded Plastic window kit included
Window kit length: Max. 51"
Eco-friendly refrigerant: R-410A
Air Flow (at high speed): 380 m3/h
Maximum power consumption: 1150 W / 10.5 A
Noise level (dBA): 34 - 43
Power supply: 115 V / 60Hz / 1 Phase
Unit dimensions: 20.5" W x 21.7" D x 19" H
Packing dimension: 23" W x 31" D x 24" H
Net weight: 79 lbs
Gross weight: 90 lbs
ETL certified
http://www.whynter.com/productdetail/air_comfort/portable_air_conditioners/301

I don't think i'll have any issues with light leaks, but maybe smell leaks. I would like to set this thing right below the lights and have the cold air blowing right up @ em', but then I will be exhausting air from the room through it. It does have have filters, that they call carbon, but I doubt they will take care of the smell. I might try it anyways, just because this white rhino wasn't all that stinky last time... if smell does become a problem, I will just set up the A/C outside the room and duct the cold air in.

But wait! What if I put the carbon filter I have exhausting/scrubbing the room now @ then end of the duct work instead of the beginning, and then duct the A/C exhuast into that? Instead of pull through the filter, push through it? This way I can scrub the A/C too.


Iso

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mg75

Member
i have a 14K BTU edgestar dual hose portable AC that is supposed to be stronger and more efficient than the one you have pictured. the edgestar is a decent portable AC but has a hard time cooling a 1000 watt plantmax, magnetic driven bare vertical bulb. my room is sealed. Bottled CO2. only major heat comes from bulb. i have a fan on the floor pointing up at the bulb. it is between 77-81F and i am in a basement (90 degrees outside). it leaks a lot of odor. there are no light leaks.
"home-use" portable units (especially single hose) are total garbage for our needs... i am planning to run mine temporarily and upgrade to a mini-split or a serious portable like a kwikool (location dependent). i think its perfectly fine to spend $2000+ on a decent AC. you can always upgrade lights. AC is something you preferably do once. bigger is better.
 
D

DHF

Always ran wall banger a/c`s thru the wall with heat exhaust outside the grow areas ftw.....

Just passin thru , but hadta stop in and say yer lil setup`s killer with the blumats.....

As MG just said , portable a/c`s suck dick fer growin dope.....they just can`t hang.....

For 4 lbs outta 25 plants they needta be around 72 grams dried and cured.....

Good luck Bro ....DHF......:ying:.......
 

krk

Active member
The only way to control that heat is to use glass tubes... its cheaper than a ac but kills your light output so you would need more light...so run an ac or run tubes...
 

Iso

Member
If you could pipe the exhaust from the AC into your room exhaust you should be good to go.


setup.jpg
Do you think this will work out okay? I've always set up my fans to pull through the filter... Also, you think the A/C should pipe in after(fig.A) or before(fig.B) the fan?

i have a 14K BTU edgestar dual hose portable AC that is supposed to be stronger and more efficient than the one you have pictured. the edgestar is a decent portable AC but has a hard time cooling a 1000 watt plantmax, magnetic driven bare vertical bulb. my room is sealed. Bottled CO2. only major heat comes from bulb. i have a fan on the floor pointing up at the bulb. it is between 77-81F and i am in a basement (90 degrees outside). it leaks a lot of odor. there are no light leaks.
"home-use" portable units (especially single hose) are total garbage for our needs... i am planning to run mine temporarily and upgrade to a mini-split or a serious portable like a kwikool (location dependent). i think its perfectly fine to spend $2000+ on a decent AC. you can always upgrade lights. AC is something you preferably do once. bigger is better.

What up MG, thanks for checking out the thread, I'm not a big fan of portable A/C's either, but as long as I can control the smell exhausting through it, I think it should offer sufficient cooling. When I first got this room up and running I did a dry run with a portable A/C from an old grow(5yrs old), a POS 10 btu everstar from HD, when I had it running full blast I could get the room temps as low as 74 w/ light on @ 1k. The reason I'm not using it is, it leaks water big time. Also, I lost the manufacturer supplied exhaust hose, and it's a bitch rigging up the duct work to it. Really loud too.

This A/C will only be temp., I will eventually setup a mini split, just wasn't in the budget this run... barely squeezed this one in, I got a great deal on it though, and I like its slim profile.


Always ran wall banger a/c`s thru the wall with heat exhaust outside the grow areas ftw.....

Just passin thru , but hadta stop in and say yer lil setup`s killer with the blumats.....

As MG just said , portable a/c`s suck dick fer growin dope.....they just can`t hang.....

For 4 lbs outta 25 plants they needta be around 72 grams dried and cured.....

Good luck Bro ....DHF......:ying:.......

Thanks for stop'n by man, blumats are mos definitely where its @, I plan on buy'n lots more of these....

I considered a wall thru A/C, but I just couldn't wrap my head around a way to set it up. The one wall I have that it could go thru, is the one that connects the flower room to the veg... so I couldn't let it exhaust into there.

These girls just might have enough veg time(close to 4 months) to pull off over a QP each, I've personally never had more the 3 oz's from one plant, but I'm still in my experimental stage. It will be a great learning experience either way...

:plant grow:
 
Go for current setup or make sure you filter that air that blows into the wrong way around carbonfilter. If no dustfilter is used in my experience the carbonfilter will acceive less capacity reasonably fast.
 

mg75

Member
you might have to get creative dealing with the constant heat blowing and probable odor leaking. not impossible to fix... there are ways.
 

Iso

Member
Go for current setup or make sure you filter that air that blows into the wrong way around carbonfilter. If no dustfilter is used in my experience the carbonfilter will acceive less capacity reasonably fast.

you might have to get creative dealing with the constant heat blowing and probable odor leaking. not impossible to fix... there are ways.


The more I think about it, I'm probably just going to set the A/C up right outside the room and duct the cold air in. This way I won't be pulling smelly air from the flower area in through the A/C. Also, I will be able to keep the humidity a little higher by keeping the A/C out of the flower area. From what I understand, the humidity should stay high through stretch. I'll be looking for a decent de-humidifier for late flower in the mean time... any recommendations?($200 or less)

Iso
 

-~Wind Walker~-

Active member
The only way to control that heat is to use glass tubes... its cheaper than a ac but kills your light output so you would need more light...so run an ac or run tubes...

I was thinking the same thing.

Iso, nice set up. I have seen many vertical grows which use a cool tube set up to reduce their heat successfully. Have you considered this? With your bare bulbs I would think this would reasonably easy to try or do.

Good luck. Can't wait to see the results when you switch to 12/12.

-~WW~-
 

Iso

Member
I was thinking the same thing.

Iso, nice set up. I have seen many vertical grows which use a cool tube set up to reduce their heat successfully. Have you considered this? With your bare bulbs I would think this would reasonably easy to try or do.

Good luck. Can't wait to see the results when you switch to 12/12.

-~WW~-

I've used cool tubes before, only horizontally though. They would be simple to implement in my current setup, and if I cant keep things in control with the A/C, they will be the next option.

I didn't really like cool tubes in my horizontal setup, preferred my xxxl hood, so I've been reluctant to use them in my new experiment... I don't want to lose any of the precious light, if I don't have to.

But then again, it does seem extremely inefficient to use a 1150w A/C to cool 2000w of lighting.............. ..........back to the drawing board:dunno:
 

Iso

Member
So, what do you guys think, should I just say fuck the A/C, and throw the bulbs into 8" cool tubes?
 
D

DHF

Hell no........cooltubes suck.....your problem with ambient heat control stems from bulbs side by side instead of stacked with heat and smell extraction directly above the slow column of air it takes to control environment.....but....

You need the a/c for redundancy in deep summer regardless.....always have backup equipment when yas need it just in case , but not havin it when yas need it will hurt your bottomline guaranteed.....

Absolutely no fuckin reason to encase a vertical bare bulb in any type of shroud/reflector of any sorts IME over many yrs to grow killer dank.......

My 2 cents from a sunday mornin wake and bake.....DHF....:ying:
 

Grizz

Active member
Veteran
Hell no........cooltubes suck.....your problem with ambient heat control stems from bulbs side by side instead of stacked with heat and smell extraction directly above the slow column of air it takes to control environment.....but....

You need the a/c for redundancy in deep summer regardless.....always have backup equipment when yas need it just in case , but not havin it when yas need it will hurt your bottomline guaranteed.....

Absolutely no fuckin reason to encase a vertical bare bulb in any type of shroud/reflector of any sorts IME over many yrs to grow killer dank.......

My 2 cents from a sunday mornin wake and bake.....DHF....:ying:
have to agree with DHF on the tubes, I tried them for over a year , while they did work for heat control i sure dident get the intense light that i get without them and the ducting running them vertical was a bitch to work around, my room is set up with 3 1000 w hps pretty much like northern farmers set up, my room is not sealed, ie, no co2, a nice bonaire swamp cooler at the far end of my room blows right on the lights pushing all hot air right out the door, keeps room temps at 75 degrees even in southern nevada summers
 

Iso

Member
Hell no........cooltubes suck.....your problem with ambient heat control stems from bulbs side by side instead of stacked with heat and smell extraction directly above the slow column of air it takes to control environment.....but....

You need the a/c for redundancy in deep summer regardless.....always have backup equipment when yas need it just in case , but not havin it when yas need it will hurt your bottomline guaranteed.....

Absolutely no fuckin reason to encase a vertical bare bulb in any type of shroud/reflector of any sorts IME over many yrs to grow killer dank.......

My 2 cents from a sunday mornin wake and bake.....DHF....:ying:

Went ahead and stacked em'... It does help by about 2-3 degrees, but I still have to run the A/C to keep temps in check... Even with the A/C going full blast its 84 on average. It has been extremely hot around here lately too though. I think the Light distribution is better like this too. The average bulb<--->canopy distance is about 28", the furthest being about 36". I don't know, this might be too far, I'm hoping 1000w bare bulbs can cover it.

Before:


After:
 

turbolaser4528

Active member
Veteran
Guys, thoughts on having 2 x 600w hps per 4x4 tent? (stacked on top of eachother)

Will I run into temp issues if I have a strong fan on floor pushing heat from bulbs straight up into a 6-8" vortex exhausting into same room?

Was thinking of doing 2 (4x4) 1200w tents on a flip in a 10x12 bedroom with a 12-15k btu window A/C to control temps.

No Co2, and partially sealed. Or should I find a way to exhaust hot, scrubbed, potentially smelly air outside? (via window a/c perhaps) with passive intake coming from under bedroom door?

Confused again...lol:)
 

whadeezlrg

Just Say Grow
Veteran
nice setup bro, i'm building my first vert room and am pretty sure ill be running into the same issues with temps, i'm running 8" cooltubes and a 10kbtu a/c with 3k
 

Iso

Member
The average bulb<--->canopy distance is about 28", the furthest being about 36". I don't know, this might be too far, I'm hoping 1000w bare bulbs can cover it.

What do you guys think? Is this too far?

Guys, thoughts on having 2 x 600w hps per 4x4 tent? (stacked on top of eachother)

Will I run into temp issues if I have a strong fan on floor pushing heat from bulbs straight up into a 6-8" vortex exhausting into same room?

Was thinking of doing 2 (4x4) 1200w tents on a flip in a 10x12 bedroom with a 12-15k btu window A/C to control temps.

No Co2, and partially sealed. Or should I find a way to exhaust hot, scrubbed, potentially smelly air outside? (via window a/c perhaps) with passive intake coming from under bedroom door?

Confused again...lol:)

I would definitely try to exhaust out of the room, maybe into the attic. You can go up through a closet ceiling... If not the attic then maybe the basement(if you have one).Try to skip the A/C all together, and get of these fans http://www.waveplumbing.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4106 or something with similiar CFM and a fan speed controller, because you won't need it to run full blast.

Then have an 8"carbon filter in each tent that ducts out to the 14" fan. This will keep you temps in check guaranteed(unless ambient temps are to high). You could even get away with 3-600 in each tent. It will be cheaper to operate this way too.

My next grow will be something like that. 5x5 tents, 64 plants per tent 4 shelves per wall, 4 plants per shelf. 3x600w and over-oversized exhaust...




nice setup bro, i'm building my first vert room and am pretty sure ill be running into the same issues with temps, i'm running 8" cooltubes and a 10kbtu a/c with 3k

You will probably be fine w/ cooltubes. They would solve my heat issues immediately, but I want to stay bare bulb, mainly because I think my bulb to canopy distance is to far for cooltubes @ this point. It might even be too far for bare bulb.
 

Iso

Member
More Pics: Day 14 Flower

More Pics: Day 14 Flower

Day 14 @ 12/12





This is the only sign of any illness I've seen, and its only one plant.

 

turbolaser4528

Active member
Veteran
thnx.

I may just have to cut a hole in the ceiling of a rental and vent to the attic..need to be able to replace that shit quick though in case owner decides to stop in.

?

O yeah, blumats or drip;
(2-5 drips a day in a 70/30 perlite coco mix in full boom>) ? smartie pots
 
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