Coot
PM me if you want to try out some Ivy. There's so much around here I could never use it all myself!
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Fermented plant extracts
- Thread starter sophisto
- Start date
Coot
PM me if you want to try out some Ivy. There's so much around here I could never use it all myself!
Today when I checked the extracts I have going, one of them had a strong ammonia/bleach/hydrochloric acid smell. Is that bad?
This one had a bit more chopped up plant in it, and I'm finding it all rises to the surface forming a layer that sits on top of the liquid. I guess I need to find a way to keep it all submerged?
This one had a bit more chopped up plant in it, and I'm finding it all rises to the surface forming a layer that sits on top of the liquid. I guess I need to find a way to keep it all submerged?
It was the nettle without roots.
Started it a day after the nettle w/roots, and the two are completely different in the way they are behaving. The nettle w/roots smells sweet, and is no where near as active, judging from the amount of gas produced, although the only real difference is the roots and amount of plant matter.
Jaykush
Once the fermentation process is complete and the tea is ready to use, what is the mixing ratio for both foliar and soil application?
Does this ratio change if you're using the lactobacillus process discussed on another thread? Does that in and of itself change how you use that mixture?
BTW - talk about smell. The neem seed meal (fermented) is as close to a baby's vomit smell that you will find. I sprayed it in the walkways between the raised beds and now the dogs and cats refuse to go anywhere near. Not that this is necessarily a bad thing.
Thanks for your help.
CC
Once the fermentation process is complete and the tea is ready to use, what is the mixing ratio for both foliar and soil application?
Does this ratio change if you're using the lactobacillus process discussed on another thread? Does that in and of itself change how you use that mixture?
BTW - talk about smell. The neem seed meal (fermented) is as close to a baby's vomit smell that you will find. I sprayed it in the walkways between the raised beds and now the dogs and cats refuse to go anywhere near. Not that this is necessarily a bad thing.
Thanks for your help.
CC
haha maybe there should be a caution post in the beginning of this thread, to warm of foul smells lol.
the nettle will stink, no doubt. the nettle roots are very special i believe. i do separate batches with just nettle root and its known to suppress harmful fungi. the more plant matter the more fermentation and smell you will get, it will not make your plants or weed smell like shit though trust me. anything but tasty goodness.
coot you want to dilute down to 10% for soil drenches, and 5% for foliar sprays. if you dont make the extracts as strong you dont need to dilute as much, the stronger you make it the more you have to dilute. and you really dont need to be accurate, this way of fertilizing is very forgiving. i dont measure shit.
doesnt change if you use lacto b.
yea the smell can be bad at times, but the plants fuckin LOVE it. haha. so i take one for the team and brew the extracts away from where i work and hang out.
the nettle will stink, no doubt. the nettle roots are very special i believe. i do separate batches with just nettle root and its known to suppress harmful fungi. the more plant matter the more fermentation and smell you will get, it will not make your plants or weed smell like shit though trust me. anything but tasty goodness.
coot you want to dilute down to 10% for soil drenches, and 5% for foliar sprays. if you dont make the extracts as strong you dont need to dilute as much, the stronger you make it the more you have to dilute. and you really dont need to be accurate, this way of fertilizing is very forgiving. i dont measure shit.
doesnt change if you use lacto b.
yea the smell can be bad at times, but the plants fuckin LOVE it. haha. so i take one for the team and brew the extracts away from where i work and hang out.
I think the nettle with roots actually smells quite nice. Sweet n sour would be a good description.
The other one without roots just smells astringent! It's worlds apart from the sweet n sour smell.
These are both EM-FPEs. I wonder if one "activated" better than the other? I did use different bottles of EM-1, and I had both in the fridge (which I now know you're not supposed to do), but one was in longer than the other. I wonder if that's it?
Either way I'm going to figure out something to keep the material from sitting on top if I can, and see if that makes a difference. I think if it remains below the surface the astringent smell might go away or at least be reduced.
if you added EM thats a whole different game. i dont use it but know dilution ratios are key for it. you can do these without em just fine.
if your trying to submerge the material, just try to avoid metals for caution.
if you think the nettle one with roots smells nice. give the yarrow extract a try and add one drop of honey to the 1 liter extract. smells awesome and works awesome.
if your trying to submerge the material, just try to avoid metals for caution.
if you think the nettle one with roots smells nice. give the yarrow extract a try and add one drop of honey to the 1 liter extract. smells awesome and works awesome.
The sharpness of the smell seems to have gone away mostly, and it smells more sweet n sour.
I'll stay away from metals. Thanks for the tip.
I'm not even sure what yarrow looks like, or if it grows around here, but I'll find out.
Any ideas what extract might be good for preventing damage like this?
I think it's leaf hopper damage, or it could be another sap-sucker that we have here which I'll have to try and identify.
I think a lemon balm extract is next on the cards!
I'll stay away from metals. Thanks for the tip.
I'm not even sure what yarrow looks like, or if it grows around here, but I'll find out.
Any ideas what extract might be good for preventing damage like this?
I think it's leaf hopper damage, or it could be another sap-sucker that we have here which I'll have to try and identify.
I think a lemon balm extract is next on the cards!
Found some interesting info...
Found some interesting info...
Came across this while looking for info on mugwort as an FPE
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_fermented_plant_juice
Also, Mulberry FPE could be useful if any of you have access to it - check this out:
http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/msg24647.html
Although it should be noted that it does say the product is also made from mugwort and comfrey, and it is for human consumption.
Here's something else I just found, which although it relates to medicine, could be relevant here. Lemon balm and mugwort are both mentioned, but you have to pay for more detailed info.
One more
Found some interesting info...
Came across this while looking for info on mugwort as an FPE
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_fermented_plant_juice
Also, Mulberry FPE could be useful if any of you have access to it - check this out:
http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/msg24647.html
Although it should be noted that it does say the product is also made from mugwort and comfrey, and it is for human consumption.
Here's something else I just found, which although it relates to medicine, could be relevant here. Lemon balm and mugwort are both mentioned, but you have to pay for more detailed info.
http://www.sciencedirect.com/science?_ob=ArticleURL&_udi=B6VSD-48KCSM4-5&_user=10&_rdoc=1&_fmt=&_orig=search&_sort=d&_docanchor=&view=c&_searchStrId=961912611&_rerunOrigin=google&_acct=C000050221&_version=1&_urlVersion=0&_userid=10&md5=d370c39894eac5a3563e5356be09e268
One more
http://www.62farm.co.kr/e_intro.html
Another interesting read about microbes and FPEs
Another interesting read about microbes and FPEs
Although parts are in another language. Here's the first part. Visit the Google cashed version (link below) for more.
http://209.85.229.132/search?q=cache:tCqGrR33iGYJ:www.niast.go.kr/workpds/workpdsDown.asp%3Fidx%3D186%26tG%3D1+mugwort+Fermented+OR+FPE+OR+ferment+-beer+-nutrition+-sake+-brewing+-medicine&cd=341&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=uk
Another interesting read about microbes and FPEs
Although parts are in another language. Here's the first part. Visit the Google cashed version (link below) for more.
http://209.85.229.132/search?q=cache:tCqGrR33iGYJ:www.niast.go.kr/workpds/workpdsDown.asp%3Fidx%3D186%26tG%3D1+mugwort+Fermented+OR+FPE+OR+ferment+-beer+-nutrition+-sake+-brewing+-medicine&cd=341&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=uk
ThaiPhoon
Active member
Here is an interesting PDF. A scientific study done on FPE from Noni fruit.
www.ejbiotechnology.info/content/vol12/issue3/full/12/12.pdf
And another method. This one ferments in the sun.
http://www.grouppekurosawa.com/organic1print.htm
www.ejbiotechnology.info/content/vol12/issue3/full/12/12.pdf
And another method. This one ferments in the sun.
http://www.grouppekurosawa.com/organic1print.htm
Ill post this here too.
I havent seen the "plant extract" thread before but i hope and wish that members read it carefully, with an open mind and with the consideration of its overall importance to the cannabis grower. The thread is truly brilliant and groundbreaking . I havent been involved in it and havent read it all,so i dont know if the author is aware of the importance of the subject or not, but the potential benefit from plant extacts for the cannabis grower may be earthshattering. The potential benefits may exist far beyond the dinner plate.
An old grower in our area that recently passed away had grown for more than 40 years. He had been working with plant extracts as a deer repellant. All outdoor growers know that store bought deer repellant products, piss, shit and all of the other methods of deer repellant are totally useless and ineffective. He had noticed that deer didnt eat certain plants in our area and wondered if he could fool the deer by making his cannabis plants smell like a plant that they don't eat. He chose several of the species and developed extracts from them. He used neem oil as a suspension vehicle and then sprayed his outdoor plants with the extract. The results were unbelieveable. The deer didnt touch any plant that had been sprayed (wild onlion extract) . Several of the extracts showed promise and the deer clearly believed the plants were a plant they dont eat.
This grower had then moved on to study plants that spidermites avoid and was well on his way to developing a mite resistant extract for indoor growers following the same logic- if the mites conclude that cannabis is a plant they avoid, then....
Most importantly, he was working with plant extract from plants that arent succeptable to the onerous, untreatable and always deadly powdery mildew. His initial experiments of coating the cannabis plant with the extract from resistant plants were showing very real results.
The study of plant extracts for cannabis is in its infancy with only the most innovative and ingenious growers working with it, but with the first important breakthrough, the science will become more serious and focused. The potential benefits simply cant be understated and may be the key to the cure for many of the enemies of cannabis.
PUre genius. Hats off to the brave trailblazers doing this work.
I havent seen the "plant extract" thread before but i hope and wish that members read it carefully, with an open mind and with the consideration of its overall importance to the cannabis grower. The thread is truly brilliant and groundbreaking . I havent been involved in it and havent read it all,so i dont know if the author is aware of the importance of the subject or not, but the potential benefit from plant extacts for the cannabis grower may be earthshattering. The potential benefits may exist far beyond the dinner plate.
An old grower in our area that recently passed away had grown for more than 40 years. He had been working with plant extracts as a deer repellant. All outdoor growers know that store bought deer repellant products, piss, shit and all of the other methods of deer repellant are totally useless and ineffective. He had noticed that deer didnt eat certain plants in our area and wondered if he could fool the deer by making his cannabis plants smell like a plant that they don't eat. He chose several of the species and developed extracts from them. He used neem oil as a suspension vehicle and then sprayed his outdoor plants with the extract. The results were unbelieveable. The deer didnt touch any plant that had been sprayed (wild onlion extract) . Several of the extracts showed promise and the deer clearly believed the plants were a plant they dont eat.
This grower had then moved on to study plants that spidermites avoid and was well on his way to developing a mite resistant extract for indoor growers following the same logic- if the mites conclude that cannabis is a plant they avoid, then....
Most importantly, he was working with plant extract from plants that arent succeptable to the onerous, untreatable and always deadly powdery mildew. His initial experiments of coating the cannabis plant with the extract from resistant plants were showing very real results.
The study of plant extracts for cannabis is in its infancy with only the most innovative and ingenious growers working with it, but with the first important breakthrough, the science will become more serious and focused. The potential benefits simply cant be understated and may be the key to the cure for many of the enemies of cannabis.
PUre genius. Hats off to the brave trailblazers doing this work.
yea great post d.s toker. plant extracts can go much further than just feeding the soil to feed your plants. i have noticed certain extracts keep away pests as well as disease. i am also working on one that keeps away gophers (with good success so far) the possibility's are only limited to the local resources, and sometimes if its not local you can grow it yourself for the purpose of plant extracts. i know i will never stop using and experimenting with them thats for sure, they work amazing when you get the feel for it.
JayKush
Check out Horizon Herbs if you're not familiar with them. They carry different types of comfrey and some other herb plants and seeds.
Good folks from my experience.
CC
Check out Horizon Herbs if you're not familiar with them. They carry different types of comfrey and some other herb plants and seeds.
Good folks from my experience.
CC
NUG-JUG
Member
That would be something else..great post D.S. Toker,
Natural Products for Insect Pest Management1
Eileen A. Buss and Sydney G. Park-Brown2
Ideally, insecticides should reduce pest populations, be target-specific (kill the pest but not other organisms), break down quickly, and have low toxicity to humans and other mammals. Although, synthetic insecticides (e.g., chlorinated hydrocarbons, organophosphates, and pyrethroids) have been an important part of pest management for many years, the disadvantages and risks of using them have become apparent. As a result, many people are looking for less hazardous alternatives to conventional synthetic insecticides.
Some alternatives include less-toxic or natural products, such as insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, microbials (see ENY-275 -http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/IN081 ), mineral and botanical insecticides ("botanicals"). Most of these groups will be discussed in this publication. In particular, botanicals are toxins that are derived or extracted from plants or plant parts. Many botanical insecticides have been known and used for hundreds of years, but were displaced from the marketplace by synthetic insecticides in the 1950s. These old products, and some newer, plant-derived products, deserve consideration for use in pest control. Botanical insecticides have different chemical structures and modes of action. However, some general traits of botanicals and other natural products include the following:
Fast Breakdown. Botanicals degrade rapidly in sunlight, air, and moisture, and by detoxification enzymes. Rapid breakdown means less persistence and reduced risks to non-target organisms. However, precise timing and/or more frequent applications may be necessary.
Fast Action. Although death may not occur for hours or days, insects may be immediately paralyzed or stop feeding.
Selectivity. Rapid break down and fast action make botanicals more selective to certain plant-feeding pests and less harmful to beneficial insects.
Toxicity. Most botanicals have low to moderate mammalian toxicity, but there are exceptions (e.g., nicotine). See Table 1 for a summary of insecticide toxicity to animals. Even though botanicals are naturally derived and are relatively safe if used properly, they are nevertheless poisons and should be handled with the same caution as synthetic insecticides. All products must be used according to the label on the product container. They are most effective when used in an integrated pest management (IPM) program, which includes sanitation, cultural practices, mechanical controls, use of resistant plant varieties, and biological control.
Synergism. Some botanicals quickly break down or are metabolized by enzymes inside bodies of their target pests. Breakdown may occur rapidly, so that the insecticide only temporarily stuns, but does not kill the insect. A synergist may be added to a compound to inhibit certain detoxification enzymes in insects. This enhances the insecticidal action of the product. Synergists are low in toxicity, have little or no inherent insecticidal properties, and have very short residual activity.
Pyrethrins are often mixed with a synergist such as piperonyl butoxide (PBO), MGK 264, rotenone, or ryania to increase their effectiveness. PBO and MGK 264, however, should not be mixed with lime or soap solutions because of accelerated breakdown. PBO was implicated as a carcinogen in the past, and may not be used in some organic certification programs.
Phytotoxicity. Most botanicals are not phytotoxic (toxic to plants). However, insecticidal soaps, sulfur, and nicotine sulfate may be toxic to certain sensitive vegetables or ornamentals.
Cost and Availability. Botanicals tend to be more expensive than synthetics, and some are not produced in great supply or are no longer commercially available (e.g., nicotine). The potency of some botanicals may vary from one source or batch to the next.
Research. Data on effectiveness and long-term (chronic) toxicity to mammals are unavailable for some botanicals. Tolerances for residues of some botanicals on food crops have not been established.
State Registration. Several botanicals are registered by the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and are available by mail order, but are not registered for legal sale in certain states. Check the label before buying or applying these products.
Organic Production. Lists of products that are acceptable in organic plant production can be found at the Organic Materials Review Institute (http://www.omri.org ) and the Florida Certified Organic Growers and Consumers, Inc. (http://www.foginfo.org ) websites.
I. Botanical Insecticides
Limonene and Linalool
Citrus oils are extracted from oranges and other citrus fruit peels and refined to make the insecticidal compounds d-limonene and linalool. Both natural compounds are generally regarded as safe for mammals by the United States Food and Drug Administration, and are used extensively as flavorings and scents in foods, cosmetics, soaps, and perfumes.
Limonene and linalool are contact poisons (nerve toxins) that may be synergized by piperonyl butoxide (PBO). They have low oral and dermal toxicities. Both compounds evaporate readily from treated surfaces and have no residual. They have been registered for use against fleas, aphids and mites, but also kill fire ants, several types of flies, paper wasps and house crickets. Commercial products (usually called “d-Limonene”) are available as liquids, aerosols, shampoos, and dips for pets. Topical application can irritate the skin and eyes of some animals, and although symptoms are usually temporary, use these products cautiously and sparingly.
Neem
Neem or neem oil is extracted from the seeds of the neem tree, Azadirachta indica, a native of India. The neem tree supplies at least two compounds with insecticidal activity (azadirachtin and salannin), and other unknown compounds with fungicidal activity. Azadirachtin acts as an insect feeding deterrent and growth regulator. The treated insect usually cannot molt to its next life stage and dies. It acts as a repellent when applied to a plant and does not produce a quick knockdown and kill. It has low mammalian toxicity and does not cause skin irritation in most formulations.
Neem has some systemic activity in plants. Currently registered products for ornamental pest control claim activity against a variety of sucking and chewing insects. Neem is most effective against actively growing immature insects. Neem oil is used to control powdery mildew.
Pyrethrum / Pyrethrins
Pyrethrins are highly concentrated active compounds which are extracted from the daisy-like flower of Chrysanthemum cinerariaefolium, commercially grown in Kenya. When the flower is ground into a powder, the product is called a pyrethrum. Pyrethrum is the most widely used botanical insecticide in the United States. Synthetic insecticides that mimic the action of the pyrethrins are known as pyrethroids (e.g., bifenthrin, cyfluthrin, and permethrin).
Most insects are highly susceptible to low concentrations of pyrethrins. The toxins cause immediate knockdown or paralysis on contact, but insects often metabolize them and recover. Pyrethrins break down quickly, have a short residual, and low mammalian toxicity, making them among the safest insecticides in use. However, people may have allergic skin reactions and cats are highly susceptible to poisoning (e.g., flea drops and powder).
Pyrethrins may be used against a broad range of pests including ants, aphids, roaches, fleas, flies, and ticks. They are available in dusts, sprays, and aerosol “bombs,” and may be mixed with synthetic pesticides or other botanicals.
Rotenone
Rotenone is a broad-spectrum contact and stomach poison that is used against leaf-feeding insects, such as aphids, certain beetles (asparagus beetle, bean leaf beetle, Colorado potato beetle, cucumber beetle, flea beetle, strawberry leaf beetle, and others) and caterpillars, as well as fleas and lice on animals. Rotenone is extracted from the roots of two tropical legumes, Lonchocarpus and Derris, and is is commonly formulated as a dust or wettable powder.
Insects quickly stop feeding and death occurs several hours to a few days after exposure. Rotenone degrades rapidly when exposed to air and sunlight. It is not phytotoxic, but is extremely toxic to fish, and moderately toxic to mammals. Protective clothing and a mask should be worn to protect skin and the respiratory tract. It may be mixed with pyrethrins or piperonyl butoxide to improve its effectiveness.
Ryania
Ryania is extracted from the stems of a woody South American plant, Ryania speciosa. Although a slow-acting stomach poison, it causes insects to stop feeding soon after ingestion. It works well in hot weather. Ryania is moderate in acute or chronic oral toxicity in mammals. It is generally not harmful to most natural enemies, but may be toxic to certain predatory mites. Ryania has longer residual activity than most other botanicals.
It has been used commercially in fruit and vegetable production against caterpillars (European corn borer, corn ear-worm, and others) and thrips. Ryania may be difficult to find in stores but may be available from online vendors alone or mixed with rotenone and pyrethrin.
Sabadilla
Sabadilla comes from the ripe seeds of the tropical lily Schoenocaulon officinale. Sabadilla is a broad-spectrum contact poison, but has some activity as a stomach poison. Baits, dusts or sprays may be used in organic fruit and vegetable production against squash bugs, harlequin bugs, thrips, caterpillars, leaf hoppers, and stink bugs. The alkaloids in Sabadilla affect insect nerve cells, causing loss of nerve function, paralysis, and insect death. The dust formulation of sabadilla is the least toxic to mammals of all registered botanical insecticides, but protective clothing and a mask should still be worn to protect skin and the respiratory tract. Sabadilla breaks down rapidly in sunlight and air, leaving no harmful residues. However, it is highly toxic to honeybees, and should only be used when bees are not present (e.g., in the evening, after bees return to their hives).
II. Soaps and Oils
Horticultural Oil
Various oils can be used to manage some pest insects and mites. Horticultural oils used to be called either “dormant” or “summer” oils. Dormant oils originally referred to heavier weight, less well-refined oils that were unsafe to use on plants after they broke dormancy. However, these older oils have been replaced with more refined, light-weight oils that may be applied to plant foliage (summer or foliar oils). A dormant or summer oil now indicates the time of application rather than any particular type of oil. Dormant applications are ideal for treating the overwintering life stages of pests that are more difficult to control during the growing season.
Oils may affect the target pests in several ways. Petroleum oils and vegetable oils may block the insects air or breathing holes (spiracles), so the insect dies by suffocation. Oils prevent gas exchange through egg membranes, so eggs are often targets of control with oils. The fatty acids in oils may disrupt cell membranes and interfere with normal metabolism. Other oils may also have antifeedant properties or may clog stylets (stylet oils), which may help prevent insects, like aphids and leaf hoppers, from transmitting viruses to plants. In general, oils are most effective against small, immobile or slow-moving, soft-bodied insects (e.g., aphids, scales, leaf hopper nymphs, white flies) and mites that are thoroughly coated by an oil spray. Because oils lack residual activity, they do not provide control of insects moving into a treated area.
Insecticidal Soap
Insecticidal soaps are made from plant oils (cottonseed, olive, palm, or coconut) or animal fat (lard, fish oil), but are generally not considered botanicals. They are made from the salts of fatty acids, which are in the fats and oils of animals and plants.
The mode of action is still unclear, despite years of use. Soaps are thought to physically disrupt the insect cuticle (outer skin), but additional toxic action is suspected. Soaps act on contact and must be applied directly to the insect to be effective. No residues remain on plants. They are effective against soft-bodied insects like aphids, some scales, psyllids, white flies, mealybugs, thrips, and spider mites. Hard-bodied insects (e.g., adult beetles or wasps) are not harmed because of their tough, chitinous bodies.
Some plants may be sensitive to soaps, resulting in leaf burn. Plants that have hairy leaves may be more susceptible to soap injury than smooth-leaved plants. Consult the label to see which plants are listed. Apply the soap spray on a small area of the plant to check for phytotoxicity. Commercial soaps are less likely to be phytotoxic.
III. Mineral Insecticides
Diatomaceous Earth
Diatomaceous earth is a nontoxic insecticide mined from the fossilized silica shell remains of diatoms (single-celled or colonial algae). It absorbs the waxy layer on insect bodies, abrades the skin, and causes the insect to dry out.
Diatomaceous earth is sold as a dust, and is sometimes combined with pyrethrin. It may control slugs, millipedes and sow bugs, as well as soft-bodied insects like aphids. It has low mammalian toxicity. Two kinds of diatomaceous earth are available, a "natural grade" and a filtering agent in swimming pools, but the "natural grade" is the one used as an insecticide.
Sulfur
Sulfur is probably the oldest known pesticide in current use. It can be used as a dust, wettable powder, paste or liquid, primarily for disease control (e.g., powdery mildews, rusts, leaf blights, and fruit rots). However, mites, psyllids and thrips also are susceptible to sulfur. Most pesticidal sulfur is labeled for vegetables (e.g., beans, potatoes, tomatoes, and peas) and fruit crops (e.g., grapes, apples, pears, cherries, peaches, plums, and prunes). Sulfur is nontoxic to mammals, but may irritate skin or especially eyes.
Sulfur has the potential to damage plants in hot (90°F and above), dry weather. It is also incompatible with other pesticides. Do not use sulfur within 20 to 30 days on plants where spray oils have been applied; it reacts with the oils to make a more phytotoxic combination.
References
Carr, A., M. Smith, L. Gilkeson, J. Smillie, B. Wolf, and F. Marshall Bradley. 1991. Rodales Chemical-Free Yard & Garden. Rodale Press, Inc. New York. 456 pp.
Pedigo, L. P. 1999. Entomology & Pest Management. Prentice Hall. New Jersey. 742 pp.
Ware, G. W. and D. M. Whitacre. 2000. The Pesticide Book, 6th edition. MeisterPro Information Resources, Willoughby, OH.
literally been reading this tonight and put 2 and 2 together. my shits getting to good im in a fog lol.
Eileen A. Buss and Sydney G. Park-Brown2
Ideally, insecticides should reduce pest populations, be target-specific (kill the pest but not other organisms), break down quickly, and have low toxicity to humans and other mammals. Although, synthetic insecticides (e.g., chlorinated hydrocarbons, organophosphates, and pyrethroids) have been an important part of pest management for many years, the disadvantages and risks of using them have become apparent. As a result, many people are looking for less hazardous alternatives to conventional synthetic insecticides.
Some alternatives include less-toxic or natural products, such as insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, microbials (see ENY-275 -http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/IN081 ), mineral and botanical insecticides ("botanicals"). Most of these groups will be discussed in this publication. In particular, botanicals are toxins that are derived or extracted from plants or plant parts. Many botanical insecticides have been known and used for hundreds of years, but were displaced from the marketplace by synthetic insecticides in the 1950s. These old products, and some newer, plant-derived products, deserve consideration for use in pest control. Botanical insecticides have different chemical structures and modes of action. However, some general traits of botanicals and other natural products include the following:
Fast Breakdown. Botanicals degrade rapidly in sunlight, air, and moisture, and by detoxification enzymes. Rapid breakdown means less persistence and reduced risks to non-target organisms. However, precise timing and/or more frequent applications may be necessary.
Fast Action. Although death may not occur for hours or days, insects may be immediately paralyzed or stop feeding.
Selectivity. Rapid break down and fast action make botanicals more selective to certain plant-feeding pests and less harmful to beneficial insects.
Toxicity. Most botanicals have low to moderate mammalian toxicity, but there are exceptions (e.g., nicotine). See Table 1 for a summary of insecticide toxicity to animals. Even though botanicals are naturally derived and are relatively safe if used properly, they are nevertheless poisons and should be handled with the same caution as synthetic insecticides. All products must be used according to the label on the product container. They are most effective when used in an integrated pest management (IPM) program, which includes sanitation, cultural practices, mechanical controls, use of resistant plant varieties, and biological control.
Synergism. Some botanicals quickly break down or are metabolized by enzymes inside bodies of their target pests. Breakdown may occur rapidly, so that the insecticide only temporarily stuns, but does not kill the insect. A synergist may be added to a compound to inhibit certain detoxification enzymes in insects. This enhances the insecticidal action of the product. Synergists are low in toxicity, have little or no inherent insecticidal properties, and have very short residual activity.
Pyrethrins are often mixed with a synergist such as piperonyl butoxide (PBO), MGK 264, rotenone, or ryania to increase their effectiveness. PBO and MGK 264, however, should not be mixed with lime or soap solutions because of accelerated breakdown. PBO was implicated as a carcinogen in the past, and may not be used in some organic certification programs.
Phytotoxicity. Most botanicals are not phytotoxic (toxic to plants). However, insecticidal soaps, sulfur, and nicotine sulfate may be toxic to certain sensitive vegetables or ornamentals.
Cost and Availability. Botanicals tend to be more expensive than synthetics, and some are not produced in great supply or are no longer commercially available (e.g., nicotine). The potency of some botanicals may vary from one source or batch to the next.
Research. Data on effectiveness and long-term (chronic) toxicity to mammals are unavailable for some botanicals. Tolerances for residues of some botanicals on food crops have not been established.
State Registration. Several botanicals are registered by the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and are available by mail order, but are not registered for legal sale in certain states. Check the label before buying or applying these products.
Organic Production. Lists of products that are acceptable in organic plant production can be found at the Organic Materials Review Institute (http://www.omri.org ) and the Florida Certified Organic Growers and Consumers, Inc. (http://www.foginfo.org ) websites.
I. Botanical Insecticides
Limonene and Linalool
Citrus oils are extracted from oranges and other citrus fruit peels and refined to make the insecticidal compounds d-limonene and linalool. Both natural compounds are generally regarded as safe for mammals by the United States Food and Drug Administration, and are used extensively as flavorings and scents in foods, cosmetics, soaps, and perfumes.
Limonene and linalool are contact poisons (nerve toxins) that may be synergized by piperonyl butoxide (PBO). They have low oral and dermal toxicities. Both compounds evaporate readily from treated surfaces and have no residual. They have been registered for use against fleas, aphids and mites, but also kill fire ants, several types of flies, paper wasps and house crickets. Commercial products (usually called “d-Limonene”) are available as liquids, aerosols, shampoos, and dips for pets. Topical application can irritate the skin and eyes of some animals, and although symptoms are usually temporary, use these products cautiously and sparingly.
Neem
Neem or neem oil is extracted from the seeds of the neem tree, Azadirachta indica, a native of India. The neem tree supplies at least two compounds with insecticidal activity (azadirachtin and salannin), and other unknown compounds with fungicidal activity. Azadirachtin acts as an insect feeding deterrent and growth regulator. The treated insect usually cannot molt to its next life stage and dies. It acts as a repellent when applied to a plant and does not produce a quick knockdown and kill. It has low mammalian toxicity and does not cause skin irritation in most formulations.
Neem has some systemic activity in plants. Currently registered products for ornamental pest control claim activity against a variety of sucking and chewing insects. Neem is most effective against actively growing immature insects. Neem oil is used to control powdery mildew.
Pyrethrum / Pyrethrins
Pyrethrins are highly concentrated active compounds which are extracted from the daisy-like flower of Chrysanthemum cinerariaefolium, commercially grown in Kenya. When the flower is ground into a powder, the product is called a pyrethrum. Pyrethrum is the most widely used botanical insecticide in the United States. Synthetic insecticides that mimic the action of the pyrethrins are known as pyrethroids (e.g., bifenthrin, cyfluthrin, and permethrin).
Most insects are highly susceptible to low concentrations of pyrethrins. The toxins cause immediate knockdown or paralysis on contact, but insects often metabolize them and recover. Pyrethrins break down quickly, have a short residual, and low mammalian toxicity, making them among the safest insecticides in use. However, people may have allergic skin reactions and cats are highly susceptible to poisoning (e.g., flea drops and powder).
Pyrethrins may be used against a broad range of pests including ants, aphids, roaches, fleas, flies, and ticks. They are available in dusts, sprays, and aerosol “bombs,” and may be mixed with synthetic pesticides or other botanicals.
Rotenone
Rotenone is a broad-spectrum contact and stomach poison that is used against leaf-feeding insects, such as aphids, certain beetles (asparagus beetle, bean leaf beetle, Colorado potato beetle, cucumber beetle, flea beetle, strawberry leaf beetle, and others) and caterpillars, as well as fleas and lice on animals. Rotenone is extracted from the roots of two tropical legumes, Lonchocarpus and Derris, and is is commonly formulated as a dust or wettable powder.
Insects quickly stop feeding and death occurs several hours to a few days after exposure. Rotenone degrades rapidly when exposed to air and sunlight. It is not phytotoxic, but is extremely toxic to fish, and moderately toxic to mammals. Protective clothing and a mask should be worn to protect skin and the respiratory tract. It may be mixed with pyrethrins or piperonyl butoxide to improve its effectiveness.
Ryania
Ryania is extracted from the stems of a woody South American plant, Ryania speciosa. Although a slow-acting stomach poison, it causes insects to stop feeding soon after ingestion. It works well in hot weather. Ryania is moderate in acute or chronic oral toxicity in mammals. It is generally not harmful to most natural enemies, but may be toxic to certain predatory mites. Ryania has longer residual activity than most other botanicals.
It has been used commercially in fruit and vegetable production against caterpillars (European corn borer, corn ear-worm, and others) and thrips. Ryania may be difficult to find in stores but may be available from online vendors alone or mixed with rotenone and pyrethrin.
Sabadilla
Sabadilla comes from the ripe seeds of the tropical lily Schoenocaulon officinale. Sabadilla is a broad-spectrum contact poison, but has some activity as a stomach poison. Baits, dusts or sprays may be used in organic fruit and vegetable production against squash bugs, harlequin bugs, thrips, caterpillars, leaf hoppers, and stink bugs. The alkaloids in Sabadilla affect insect nerve cells, causing loss of nerve function, paralysis, and insect death. The dust formulation of sabadilla is the least toxic to mammals of all registered botanical insecticides, but protective clothing and a mask should still be worn to protect skin and the respiratory tract. Sabadilla breaks down rapidly in sunlight and air, leaving no harmful residues. However, it is highly toxic to honeybees, and should only be used when bees are not present (e.g., in the evening, after bees return to their hives).
II. Soaps and Oils
Horticultural Oil
Various oils can be used to manage some pest insects and mites. Horticultural oils used to be called either “dormant” or “summer” oils. Dormant oils originally referred to heavier weight, less well-refined oils that were unsafe to use on plants after they broke dormancy. However, these older oils have been replaced with more refined, light-weight oils that may be applied to plant foliage (summer or foliar oils). A dormant or summer oil now indicates the time of application rather than any particular type of oil. Dormant applications are ideal for treating the overwintering life stages of pests that are more difficult to control during the growing season.
Oils may affect the target pests in several ways. Petroleum oils and vegetable oils may block the insects air or breathing holes (spiracles), so the insect dies by suffocation. Oils prevent gas exchange through egg membranes, so eggs are often targets of control with oils. The fatty acids in oils may disrupt cell membranes and interfere with normal metabolism. Other oils may also have antifeedant properties or may clog stylets (stylet oils), which may help prevent insects, like aphids and leaf hoppers, from transmitting viruses to plants. In general, oils are most effective against small, immobile or slow-moving, soft-bodied insects (e.g., aphids, scales, leaf hopper nymphs, white flies) and mites that are thoroughly coated by an oil spray. Because oils lack residual activity, they do not provide control of insects moving into a treated area.
Insecticidal Soap
Insecticidal soaps are made from plant oils (cottonseed, olive, palm, or coconut) or animal fat (lard, fish oil), but are generally not considered botanicals. They are made from the salts of fatty acids, which are in the fats and oils of animals and plants.
The mode of action is still unclear, despite years of use. Soaps are thought to physically disrupt the insect cuticle (outer skin), but additional toxic action is suspected. Soaps act on contact and must be applied directly to the insect to be effective. No residues remain on plants. They are effective against soft-bodied insects like aphids, some scales, psyllids, white flies, mealybugs, thrips, and spider mites. Hard-bodied insects (e.g., adult beetles or wasps) are not harmed because of their tough, chitinous bodies.
Some plants may be sensitive to soaps, resulting in leaf burn. Plants that have hairy leaves may be more susceptible to soap injury than smooth-leaved plants. Consult the label to see which plants are listed. Apply the soap spray on a small area of the plant to check for phytotoxicity. Commercial soaps are less likely to be phytotoxic.
III. Mineral Insecticides
Diatomaceous Earth
Diatomaceous earth is a nontoxic insecticide mined from the fossilized silica shell remains of diatoms (single-celled or colonial algae). It absorbs the waxy layer on insect bodies, abrades the skin, and causes the insect to dry out.
Diatomaceous earth is sold as a dust, and is sometimes combined with pyrethrin. It may control slugs, millipedes and sow bugs, as well as soft-bodied insects like aphids. It has low mammalian toxicity. Two kinds of diatomaceous earth are available, a "natural grade" and a filtering agent in swimming pools, but the "natural grade" is the one used as an insecticide.
Sulfur
Sulfur is probably the oldest known pesticide in current use. It can be used as a dust, wettable powder, paste or liquid, primarily for disease control (e.g., powdery mildews, rusts, leaf blights, and fruit rots). However, mites, psyllids and thrips also are susceptible to sulfur. Most pesticidal sulfur is labeled for vegetables (e.g., beans, potatoes, tomatoes, and peas) and fruit crops (e.g., grapes, apples, pears, cherries, peaches, plums, and prunes). Sulfur is nontoxic to mammals, but may irritate skin or especially eyes.
Sulfur has the potential to damage plants in hot (90°F and above), dry weather. It is also incompatible with other pesticides. Do not use sulfur within 20 to 30 days on plants where spray oils have been applied; it reacts with the oils to make a more phytotoxic combination.
References
Carr, A., M. Smith, L. Gilkeson, J. Smillie, B. Wolf, and F. Marshall Bradley. 1991. Rodales Chemical-Free Yard & Garden. Rodale Press, Inc. New York. 456 pp.
Pedigo, L. P. 1999. Entomology & Pest Management. Prentice Hall. New Jersey. 742 pp.
Ware, G. W. and D. M. Whitacre. 2000. The Pesticide Book, 6th edition. MeisterPro Information Resources, Willoughby, OH.
literally been reading this tonight and put 2 and 2 together. my shits getting to good im in a fog lol.
