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Fermented plant extracts

M

MrSterling

I'm almost positive bees don't pollinate pot. Cannabis is wind pollinated. I've looked but not found any evidence otherwise.

SM, I hope you got away safely from the yellow jackets!
 

Oregonism

Active member
Curiously enough, only yellow jackets have been stopping at the outdoor ladies. I think I saw a honey bee species, one time, hovering, but the yellow jackets actually take a little time and jive with the plant, kind of interesting. No flies, other insects, etc, just yellows.
 

mapinguari

Member
Veteran
The other day a honeybee was gettin' jiggy with a male I have in a segregated area... Feller was coated, all it would take is a flight over to a female, and...

I don't know if male cannabis flowers are as rewarding for honeybees as other kinds of flowers are, but he/she/it was sure going for it.
 

ixnay007

"I can't remember the last time I had a blackout"
Veteran
She, all honeybees are worker females. They collect pollen as well as nectar to bring back to the nest.
 

Swayze

Member
Hey everyone, I've been playing around with the idea of trying to ferment an avocado. No real reason other than I have access to some. The nutritional profile of an avocado is:

Vitamins
Vitamin A 338IU 7%
Vitamin C 20.2mg 34%
Vitamin D -0
Vitamin E (Alpha Tocopherol) 4.5mg 23%
Vitamin K 48.3mcg 60%
Thiamin 0.2mg 12%
Riboflavin 0.3mg 19%
Niacin 4.4mg 22%
Vitamin B6 0.7mg 33%
Folate 205mcg 51%
Vitamin B12 0.0mcg 0%
Pantothenic Acid 3.4mg 34%
Choline 32.7mg
Betaine 1.6mg

Minerals
Calcium 29.9mg 3%
Iron 1.4mg 8%
Magnesium 66.7mg 17%
Phosphorus 124mg 12%
Potassium 1166mg 33%
Sodium 18.4mg 1%
Zinc 1.6mg 10%
Copper 0.4mg 20%
Manganese 0.3mg 17%
Selenium 0.9mcg 1%

Any tips on fermenting something that is as fatty as an avocado?
 

Canna-Bass

New member
I suggest bee pollen. Fermented or top dress and water in. Link related-http://www.alternativescentral.com/beepollen.htm
 

Dkgrower

Active member
Veteran
Hey everyone, I've been playing around with the idea of trying to ferment an avocado. No real reason other than I have access to some. The nutritional profile of an avocado is:

Vitamins
Vitamin A 338IU 7%
Vitamin C 20.2mg 34%
Vitamin D -0
Vitamin E (Alpha Tocopherol) 4.5mg 23%
Vitamin K 48.3mcg 60%
Thiamin 0.2mg 12%
Riboflavin 0.3mg 19%
Niacin 4.4mg 22%
Vitamin B6 0.7mg 33%
Folate 205mcg 51%
Vitamin B12 0.0mcg 0%
Pantothenic Acid 3.4mg 34%
Choline 32.7mg
Betaine 1.6mg

Minerals
Calcium 29.9mg 3%
Iron 1.4mg 8%
Magnesium 66.7mg 17%
Phosphorus 124mg 12%
Potassium 1166mg 33%
Sodium 18.4mg 1%
Zinc 1.6mg 10%
Copper 0.4mg 20%
Manganese 0.3mg 17%
Selenium 0.9mcg 1%

Any tips on fermenting something that is as fatty as an avocado?

Maby add some pinappel that would give some emzymes that will break down the fats also i would add some Alfalfa, Nettel or Comfey and some EM, plus molasse.
 

Scrappy4

senior member
Veteran
Any tips on fermenting something that is as fatty as an avocado?



Maby add some pinappel that would give some emzymes that will break down the fats also i would add some Alfalfa, Nettel or Comfey and some EM, plus molasse.

I think darkgrower is on the right path with using enzymes. Not sure if adding other herbs would help in the break down process though, but they are good inputs none the less. You could add pineapple, papaya, and i bet even beano (store bought enzyme for gassy guts), even (gasp) store bought hydro enzymes would work.....scrappy
 

Dkgrower

Active member
Veteran
Hey all

A good read, Evolutionary Process of Amino Acid Biosynthesis in Corynebacterium at the Whole Genome Level

http://mbe.oxfordjournals.org/content/21/9/1683.full

@Scrappy the reason behind adding other not so fatty matter is to stimulate other kind off bacteria to help make a consordium off bacteria, that in the end, will make the brew more wide in its spectra off bio stimulants and NPK.

Also when fermenting a very fattie substance u can end up with a immiscible 2 layer fermented product.
 

floral

Member
During the busy harvest season, I haven't been paying as much attention to the veg part of the garden, and now lo & behold I see some little spider mite dots on a few lower leaves. It's amazing how well just daily misting has worked, but when I slacked off on it in the past month or so the bugs moved in, it seems. Not a major problem but I'd like to get it under control anyway.

Going to hunt back through this thread to find what you all have posted about cilantro, lavender, and other pest-repelling plants to use in FPEs - I seem to recall CC waxing eloquent about linalool and advising against long fermentations of certain plants? - but in the meantime here's a list of what I have available and was considering using:
> have rosemary in abundance
> have coriander/cilantro seed not yet grown into plants (though of course we can buy some, and will be planting some)
> have tons of dried lavender
> have some lemon basil seeds we were about to plant soon too (or could buy basil)

Have Neem oil but no Neem cake or Neem seed meal (yet).

Have aloe vera and rice hulls and food-grade DE but none of the nifty OMRI-listed liquid silica someone was mentioning recently (anyone know whether that stuff is available in noncommercial-scale quantities?).

Any advice welcome on a regimen to avert further mite encroachment, though I will of course also be using the handy search function and taking advantage of the wisdom that's already been posted here.
 
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floral

Member
From the discussion back on page 55 I gather it might be best to do an infusion for 2 or 3 days of any linalool-containing plant material mint, lavender, basil, cilantro, rosemary. Maybe add some of the aloe vera gel before spraying?
 
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S

SeaMaiden

Based on that part of the discussion, yes, that would be correct. But if you read some of what jaykush has written, there are benefits to be found in longer fermentations, as well as incorporating other plants. I can't remember, for example, where the discussion about using spent Camellia blooms occurred, but IIRC there was a user who saw notable, observable differences using those spent blooms in a couple of scenarios.

Oops! There *is* no page 55.
 

floral

Member
Oops! There *is* no page 55.

Huh, that link works for me. But here is a link to CC's initial post about linalool and mite control:

"I can speak about a single compound, Linalool, and the difference in the pesticide and fungicide benefit shows a marked difference at 2 days vs. 4 days and by day 6 the party is completely over. " - CC on August 3 post 815 in this thread on page 55
Forgot to mention in my previous post describing the situation that I also have some essential oils that bugs would probably hate, although the plants might not like them much either - orange oil/D-limonene, peppermint oil, eucalyptus oil, tea tree oil - and of course garlic, onion, leeks, and other alliums that could go into an infusion as well.

Last night poured some hot water over cilantro from the fridge; dried lavender we had hanging around; and rosemary and salvias (mint family - not sure if leaves taste minty) from the garden. May dilute some of it, add some aloe vera, and spray this evening while the rest of it brews for another day or two.

Other ideas welcome.
 

Oregonism

Active member
I had to re-edit this, because it was totally out of sequence.

Terpenes are hydrocarbons and terpenoids are oxygen containing hydrocarbons. Linalool is actually a terpene and a monoterpene. Monoterpene's and monoterpenoids can be water soluble, these are secoiridoid monoterpenes. Secoiridoids are found all over a plants structure and not related to oil bearing structures. They are found w glycosides [containing sugars] and are water soluble. Terpenes and terpenoids that are oil bearing [these being the main constituents of most plant essential oils] contain bitter lactones called iridoids, they are considered bitter monoterpenoids and are not water soluble in pure form. Linalool is included here.

This is why I have ventured over to FPE, organic acids are excreted thru the process, but ammonia is also released in higher than ideal quantities.

Most likely what is causing the change is tannins. Tannins are water soluble, bugs hate them and so do we. Water extraction produces: anthocyanis, starches, tannins, saponins, polypeptides and lectins.
You would need ethanol, methanol, chloroform or ether, to produce the extraction you want to form linalool.
 
C

c-ray

home grown lavender can contain considerable amounts of camphor, depending on cultivar, soil nutrition and the altitude it is grown at..
 

Oregonism

Active member
Camphor C10H18O? is also not a water soluble terpenoid.

Edit: it is actually C10-H16-O

Water insoluble ketone.
 
D

Durdy

A little off topic but I'm taking a chemistry class and we did a process where we broke down a solid into its 3 constituent components. salt (NaCl), sand, and camphor. To extract the camphor we put the solid in an evaporating dish and placed a glass beaker (filled with cold H2O) on top of that. Then gently heated the bottom of the evaporating dish causing the camphor to sublime (phase change directly from solid to gas) and collect on the bottom of the beaker. Fun experiment!
 
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Dkgrower

Active member
Veteran
As much as i like to make FPE some time u need a fast pratical way to get rid of bug that are making havoc.

Brown Soap and Coconut oil in water, sprayed on to leafs and it will control most bugs.

Most off the time it is the enviroment, if it is to stabil fore a long period then it favor certain bugs.

A Flux in the enviroment/humidity is properly the best bug control, imo.
 
C

c-ray

or one could just raise the brix of their plants' sap to 12+ and make them unpalatable for bugs
 
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