++++ Extension Cord Plugs Getting HOT ++++

[Zarthustra]

Hello, I have 2 60 ft extension cords running from 120v outlets to 2x titan appolo 9 digital timers, then from there to 2x1000w ballasts in the grow room. I have had these set up and running for a little over a year. Last night I unplugged both of the cords from the timers to do a foliar. The plugs going into and coming out of the timer were HOT! plastic was warm and the metal prongs almost could burn my skin. The plugs at the wall outlets are not warm however. Any thoughts? Should i replace these timers? Thanks for the advice in advance!

 

[panick503]

How many amps are the cords rated for? What about the timers? A digital ballast pulls about ten amps at 120 volts, so ur cord and timet should be rated for about 12 amps at least, I think...

 

[Illuminate]

The cable is long, it needs to be rated higher as the resistance over 60' is causing heat which could ignite.

 

[Zarthustra]

The cords are rated for more than 1000w and more than 10 amp. I believe they are 12 gauge?

 

[panick503]

It literally took me 20 seconds to google this, and unless I read it wrong (a very real possibility), 12 guage wire is rated for 9.3 amps...

 

[Illuminate]

It's a long way to push volts so amps rise needs to be 14 amp

 

[mowood3479]

Hot is the precursor to on fire.
I'd get a shorter (if possible) and thicker (lower gauge) extension cord.
Or better yet... Run a new circuit from ur panel and skip all the extension cord sketchiness

 

[St. Phatty]

I wouldn't even push it.

I say that having melted some timers by running them at rated capacity, 1 K light in a 10 amp timer thing.


The downside (burn house down, maybe lose crop, maybe get arrested, etc.) is enough of a buzz-kill ... let's just say,

IT'S WORTH IT ... sweating small details like keeping ALL your electronic gear cool, including wires and connectors.

If there's ever a place to be Anal-Retentive & Obsessed with Detail, it's Grow-op fire safety.


Having had maybe 2 near misses, including one that was WAAAY too close for comfort ... just think like Smokey the Bear, Indoor Grower Bear.

 

[meadowman]

cut the cord to the length needed n put on a new end.

 

[ChasingGreen]

cut the cord to the length needed n put on a new end.

Sorry but if the OP is asking this question in the first place, they aren't the type that should be cutting cords and applying a new pronged end on properly, this would further add to the risk of a fire.

 

[trichrider]

length of cord pulling more amps.
put timer at far end of cord.

 

[funnymath]

length of cord pulling more amps.
put timer at far end of cord.

That doesn't solve the problem though, the end of the cord that goes into the cord that the ballast is plugged into will still get hot and will still be a fire hazard.

 

[ChasingGreen]

Long story short you need to go to Home Depot, Lowes, etc and spend some money and get a better cord. Each of those 1000W ballasts is going to draw how many amps? There's not many extension cords that could handle 2000W. Also consider the number on the cord is usually the peak watts, not continuous, so lower the number it says by around 20% for the continuous load.

Also, like others have mentioned, the length of the cord matters. Once you get over 25 feet, the resistance will change. For example (made up, don't take this as real numbers or math) if you have a 14ga cable that could handle 1000w at 25ft, it could only handle 600w at 50ft. I know Home Depot has a nice chart showing this on the isle. The 50ft cords that are GOOD and can handle a decent load, are around $60, but they're worth not burning down your house trying to save $20.

 

[Adze]

Zar,

Along with making sure you run no more than 80% of the rated amperage for the gage wire I think you should look closely at the spot where the heat is coming from. The plug and socket aren't making good contact I'll bet. Where that contact doesn't quite make a good connection there is very hot metal trying to conduct all the current.

 

[GratefulOne]

120 feet is a long way.

Voltage Drop should be calculated and wire sized correctly. Not only do you look at the amp load (80% max of wire rating) you also have to up the wire size to account for distance and voltage drop. Keep the voltage drop under 1-2% or you will stress equipment from lack of voltage.

Wiring and electric gear should never be more than warm to the touch. Get some help in planning your circuit. It is super important to be done correctly.

 

[amanda88]

Run a new circuit from ur panel and skip all the extension cord sketchiness

...and the Winner is, thanks Woody.

ps.common sense but can be difficult to see

 

[Zarthustra]

I am 100% sure one of them is 12 gauge 3 conductor. I have shortened both cords and put new plugs on them. They never used to get hot, or warm at all for that matter. Do they degrade over time? Or as someone else said, does the prongs get warn out and the connection heats as it is not making good contact? I am in a bit of a predicament as I do not own the house, and the grow room is quite far from the panel. Should I buy new cords and timers? Thank you

 

[GratefulOne]

I am 100% sure one of them is 12 gauge 3 conductor. I have shortened both cords and put new plugs on them. They never used to get hot, or warm at all for that matter. Do they degrade over time? Or as someone else said, does the prongs get warn out and the connection heats as it is not making good contact? I am in a bit of a predicament as I do not own the house, and the grow room is quite far from the panel. Should I buy new cords and timers? Thank you

You should run a proper circuit. Using extension cords is asking for a problem. Running a whole grow on two doubled up is going to make a problem for sure.

 

[St. Phatty]

I almost burned down a 12 unit condo complex because I used an open-flame CO2 generator.

I'm not sure if this is the thread (stick to electrical stuff ?), but I guess the point is ... for those of us who are willing to discuss our stupid mistakes, heck if another grower can learn, or even just laugh - what the heck ?

 

[HipsterDoofus]

$15 to replace a timer after a year. Seems reasonable.