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Exhaust fan recommendation

Hipponipple

New member
I am using a 2'x2'x5.5' grow tent with a solaraystem 275 led light

My current fan came along with the tent and I am thinking swapping this out would be my best bet with getting a handle on my temps/humidity. My tent is in a closet with the exhaust going out of the closet so I think the airflow is fine.

My problem is keeping the humidity up while keeping the temperature where I want it, 70-85 f. I am using a cheap vicks humidifier. It seems to be a little inconsistent but it does help reach the humidity levels I want. My lights go off at midnight until 4 am, I will probably change this to noon-4pm since my house is warmsr then.

My issue is with consistency. My tent will go from 20%-60% humidity quick! The temperature can also get a bit hot if the cool mist vicks humidifier isn't going.

Is there a good exhaust fan replacement with humidity/temperature controls that will help me keep things consistent? I looked at one I liked but fear it is too big along with my filter for a 2x2 space. I figured I would ask before I search any further.

(I also purchased a controller for my lights that should help with heat but humidity has been my biggest inconsistency)
 
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MrFancyPlants

Well-known member
I have been using AC Infinity Cloudline T-series and it's great. The control unit allows you to configure high/low setpoints for both temperature and humidity, and has a connector for a second identical fan if you need help on the intake side for a larger tent. The fans are 10-speed (can be limited to only go up to 6, for example) and ramp up gradually once temp/RH wander outside their setpoint ranges.

My only wish would be for some kind of remote control/monitoring via a phone app.
 

Hipponipple

New member
I have been using AC Infinity Cloudline T-series and it's great. The control unit allows you to configure high/low setpoints for both temperature and humidity, and has a connector for a second identical fan if you need help on the intake side for a larger tent. The fans are 10-speed (can be limited to only go up to 6, for example) and ramp up gradually once temp/RH wander outside their setpoint ranges.

My only wish would be for some kind of remote control/monitoring via a phone app.

Wow that is actually the one I was looking at. I got the measurements and am about to head home and measure. By the looks of it they are but too big for my 2x2, we will see.
 

MrFancyPlants

Well-known member
Wow that is actually the one I was looking at. I got the measurements and am about to head home and measure. By the looks of it they are but too big for my 2x2, we will see.

You can get the 4-inch version, too. Also keep in mind that you can cap the maximum fan speed so that it doesn't suck the air out of your smaller tent too quickly.
 

GoatCheese

Active member
Veteran
Like it was recommended, especially with leds in smaller tents and cabs, you want an smaller exhaust fan with a controller on it, but what will help to keep humidity and temps in proper range even better is to also use a timer on the exhaust.
I have the smallest PrimaKlima exhaust fan that comes with a controller and i have a timer on it 15min ON – 45 min OFF when the lights are on and abit longer OFF period when the lights are out. But i have a circulating fan in the tent that is always on when the lights are on.
 

Hipponipple

New member
Like it was recommended, especially with leds in smaller tents and cabs, you want an smaller exhaust fan with a controller on it, but what will help to keep humidity and temps in proper range even better is to also use a timer on the exhaust.
I have the smallest PrimaKlima exhaust fan that comes with a controller and i have a timer on it 15min ON – 45 min OFF when the lights are on and abit longer OFF period when the lights are out. But i have a circulating fan in the tent that is always on when the lights are on.

I think this will be big. I only need 22 cfm and who knows what my current exhaust is cranking out. I just got the infinnity 4" and it says it is over 200 cfm. I am only going to need to run it 10 min/hour to safely circulate all the air. It will just be about running it enough to keep it cool. I will have to play with it for a while.
 

Switcher56

Comfortably numb!
I think this will be big. I only need 22 cfm and who knows what my current exhaust is cranking out. I just got the infinnity 4" and it says it is over 200 cfm. I am only going to need to run it 10 min/hour to safely circulate all the air. It will just be about running it enough to keep it cool. I will have to play with it for a while.

There are dodads, that do a multitude of things. I will acquire an AC Infinity for my tent when I rebuild. That being said, something that does a multitude of things, may not do the all well.

inkbird dual temp_RH.jpg


You want to control humidity you buy a humidity controller... Where on leg goers to your humidifier and the second to an in line exhaust fan to dehumidify via a charcoal filter, when RH set point is exceeded as a dehumidifier increases tent temp by 6-8 deg F. BTW a Vicks humidifier is the wrong tool IMHO. It wasn't designed for what we are asking them to do.

A temperature controller to control temp. One leg on cooling the other on heat.

I have my tent pretty much dialed in, only having to increase or decrease the speed of my exhaust fan during lights on/lights off cycles. I believe from what I have read, that the manual adjustment I do now, would be automated with the AC Infinity.

Humidifier 1gal (lasts a day)
Click image for larger version  Name:	humidifier_crane.png Views:	0 Size:	244.2 KB ID:	18055434

in line dehuey
Click image for larger version  Name:	inline fan bloom.jpg Views:	0 Size:	37.9 KB ID:	18055435

It doesnt need to be complicated, just rationally thought out. You become mother nature :tiphat:
 

GoatCheese

Active member
Veteran
I think this will be big. I only need 22 cfm and who knows what my current exhaust is cranking out. I just got the infinnity 4" and it says it is over 200 cfm. I am only going to need to run it 10 min/hour to safely circulate all the air. It will just be about running it enough to keep it cool. I will have to play with it for a while.

You will prolly have to change the settings on the timer between summer and winter in any case, i know i do cause the seasonal difference is quite dramatic up here in the North.
But always run some kind of fan inside your tent, atleast when the lights are on, thou you’re not having the exhaust on all the time.
 

f-e

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Click image for larger version  Name:	09-SolarSystem275-04_0001_9ab41694-47db-4849-b7da-3544ecd24daa_1800x1800.png?v=1632437506.png Views:	0 Size:	240.2 KB ID:	18055813

You could duct straight from that light, through your fan, and out through the filter (used backwards).
This would mean you can extract hotter air. So you can get the heat out the tent, in a smaller air volume. Thus, reducing the moisture loss that extraction brings.

Changing your fan for a different one, won't effect the air volume the tent needs removing to stay cool. You need to look at ways to loose heat, without loosing air. While also looking at ways to add moisture. They are two separate variables, and a single fan doesn't treat them separately. You are barking up the wrong tree trying to find a fan or controller that can alter one variable and not the other.

The above is kinda blanket advice. There could be unseen issues in your grow. Perhaps you just can't run your fan slow enough to keep the RH up, but if you could run it slower the temperature wouldn't actually climb too much. I have not heard enough to really know. Perhaps you could get some heat loss just by blowing on the tent or having the closet open. If you are working in a closet, in a room, that's pretty much a controlled system, then raising the RH throughout that system (the tent/closet and room) is going to be best. Which might be best achieved with a humidifier and humidistat plug adapter. Switching the humidifier on, only when needed.

I guess the tents not full yet. Can you get some polythene and divide the tent into two chambers. The bottom for the plant being quite sealed, and the top for the light, in it's own chamber where the air passes through to keep it all cool. It need not be sealed well. Just a loose divider, with the bottom flaps and vents closed, and the top ones open. So no air really wants to pass through the bottom, through tiny gaps in zips, while alternately to can just whistle through the top half. Thus, the divider is almost cosmetic. No tape on the walls. Just put over a net like you would have for plant training, and lay a bit of food wrap over it. I have done this with 4 meter wide rolls, in situations a bit bigger than a tent. Giving the plants 60% RH in an area so well vented (due to HIDs) that is was stuck at 40% while the plants got established.


Edit: I don't remember seeing that light before. I have covers like that over my QBs. You can get the temperature down getting the air straight from them, but a divider will be the ultimate fix. Just a loose one, as you will probably be lifting the corners, not looking for some tape.
 

Switcher56

Comfortably numb!
That's an inline booster fan pal.

I got all excited for a minute.

Listen mister smarty pants, I know that! It is on the dehumidification leg as explained, in my post. If RH is too high, it turns on and discharges to the den via charcoal filter. Bonus it raises the RH here during the winter. I had a dehuey hooked up. A big expense for nothing and, doesn't affect the tent's temps. When the "real dehue"y bit the dust, this was a no brainer. Efficient and a fraction of the cost to both purchase and operate! Consider yourself told :)
 

Three Berries

Active member
I use the Cloudline T series with the 67 controller. It has Bluetooth and remote capabilities. I use a 4" in the 3x3x5' tent and a 6" in the 2x4x6' tent.

Been playing with the smaller tent an using a timer to run the fan for 1 minute every 30 as of late. This time of the year I also have a small 200W heater on a controller that is set at 72F or so. I use hanging wet bath towels to add humidity.

Quite frankly it doesn't take much change to throw off your desired scenario. If temp is a problem use that but that generally makes humidity a problem. I find it's easier to target the humidity but then again if it gets too cold not much you can do.

In my flower tent with the lights off it will get down into the upper 50F. Increasing the fan with lights off will bring that up a bit but the humidity will never be in a good VDP range when it's cold. Of course summer time is completely different. I run it at around 75F for a high temp setting and 63% for a humidity setting.

They work great. Get one one size bigger than you think you need and run it slower.

I also have the AC Infinity backdraft fittings. It seems sometimes these stick if the fan speed is too low, <2. And if you have a filter you will have to boost it for that too.

It's quite configurable but can only react to the extremes of temp or humidity. A configurable PID loop targeting VFD would make this thing great.

I should ad the Bluetooth has limited range capabilities. Maybe two walls and 30 feet. The motor leads are twice as long as the temp/humidity sensor lead. I got a 4 M extension for the cheap and moved the controllers to the hallway wall, out of the rooms they are in.
 

Hipponipple

New member
Yeah I think I will have all the equipment to manage. I will just need to play with it. Balancing temp and humidity with lights off and on is a work in progress for me.
 

Three Berries

Active member
Another feature which I have come to use is setting the fan at a higher speed than I would ever need, in my case around 6. Then have the humidity set up to up speeds per point above setpoint. This not only avoids over compensating but also helps with sudden high inputs for whatever reason.

But one thing I have found is if using the fans on a normal low speed all the time and limiting to, 2 or 3 in my case: sometimes the fan comes on but doesn't have enough punch to open the draft block I have on the input end of the fan. Using a AC Infinity draft block too.

It seems with a little moisture the foam gasket sticks to the flaps. Maybe I should spray some water repellant like WD40 on it.....

But anyway if I would have it set higher fan speeds, then as the humidity continues to climb it, would ramp up and blow stronger blasting the flaps open.
 
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