warpzone644
New member
Hi,
I posted this before, but the post disappeared from the forum due to inactivity on my account.
The article on http://www.eurolab.nl/meststof-kalk-g.htm, contains some useful information on the different kinds of lime available to us growers from garden centers and other outlets, the article was translated from a Dutch site.
The essence of the article is that it compares the acid-lowering values of 25 kinds of lime, including dolomite, it also lists the magnesium content of various lime varieties.
As dolomite lime may not be readily available in your location, this list could give you some alternatives that may be easier to obtain where you are growing.
enjoy!
Adding lime to your soil is about calcium & magnesium-carbonates that give an alkaline reaction and thereby neutralize acids in the soil.
There are many kinds of lime on the market and usually the only difference between the various types of limes is the magnesium content and its antacid value (ability to neutralize acids).
Lime fertilizers should only be applied after a soil-analysis determines the PH, organic matter composition, and clay content of the soil.
Test kits for determining soil PH are not only inaccurate for measuring soil PH, they also don’t take into account the soil composition. Depending on the organic matter composition of the soil, a certain amount of lime is needed to raise the PH of the soil by one unit.
By applying too much lime to the soil, permanent damage may result.
Once lime has been applied to the soil it can NOT be washed out. It may take up to 10 years for the soil to recover as the PH slowly drops over time.
The types of lime listed in the table below all fall under the category of carbonic-magnesia limes.
Listed is the MgO (magnesium content) in percentages varying from 0 to 35% MgO and an antacid binding value between 44 and 110 (this is what actually raises the PH of your soil).
From a chemical perspective, there is relatively little difference between the types of limestone above. They are all different combinations of magnesium and calcium carbonates.
In all types of limestone there are trace elements present in natural form.
Many other types of lime fertilizer waste products are marketed as lime fertilizers.
The above list includes lime fertilizers that can be found in garden centers and agricultural cooperatives, or available for professional green care (in the Netherlands).
Alternatives to Lime:
1. Thomas slag / phosphatic slag.
This amendment has an antacid value of 40% and contains 11~16% phosphate.
This additive is only a viable alternative for lime if extra phosphate is desired.
This amendment is not easily found and may be mixed with potassium salts.
2. Magnesium carbonate (pure) The magnesium content and antacid value are high.
Not a soil amendment for general use.
3. Natural phosphate contains an antacid value of about 20% and 26~29% phosphate.
This additive is only a viable alternative for lime if extra phosphate is desired.
4. Calcium nitrate, calcium ammonium nitrate and nitrogen lime are NOT alternatives for lime, the first two result in a higher soil PH, and use of nitrogen lime should be avoided due to unfavorable properties for both soil and humans.
Physical properties of lime:
Lime is often supplied as a dry powder. The advantage of powdered lime is that the product is easy to mix in with the soil, which is important. The downside is dusting, making it an unpleasant task if appropriate technical means are not available to disperse the product properly.
Other limes are available as a wet powder, this lime is slightly moist and therefore does not result in dust. Even distribution of wet lime on soil is slightly more difficult than with dry lime, but still acceptable.
Garden centers often sell granulated lime. The advantage over powdered lime is the convenience of being able to cleanly and easily spread the lime, the disadvantage is that distribution throughout the soil is less than optimal because lime by itself does not mix well with soil. However, distribution over a large area is often more even with pellets than with a powdered lime.
Dosage / Instructions:
Application of lime is only recommended if the soil PH is low.
If the pH of the soil is close to the target value, applying lime as a maintenance fertilizer is recommended.
When soil PH is high, application of lime is not advised. It can be more harmful than helpful.
Always spread the lime evenly throughout the growing layer of the soil.
Impurities / contaminants:
No relevant contaminants are known.
Side effects / disadvantages:
none
Contact with plants:
When in direct contact with plants, lime usually causes limited damage.
When spreading lime over the crop, lime particles or dust may cause damage to the foliage.
Rinse the plants with plenty of water after applying lime.
Application in organic gardening /agriculture:
Virtually all types of lime are permitted in biological agriculture.
Some forms of biological maerl / coral algae lime / lithotamnium may not be used in biological farming as the source of the lime cannot be determined (or harvesting methods may not be ecologically sound).
I posted this before, but the post disappeared from the forum due to inactivity on my account.
The article on http://www.eurolab.nl/meststof-kalk-g.htm, contains some useful information on the different kinds of lime available to us growers from garden centers and other outlets, the article was translated from a Dutch site.
The essence of the article is that it compares the acid-lowering values of 25 kinds of lime, including dolomite, it also lists the magnesium content of various lime varieties.
As dolomite lime may not be readily available in your location, this list could give you some alternatives that may be easier to obtain where you are growing.
enjoy!
Adding lime to your soil is about calcium & magnesium-carbonates that give an alkaline reaction and thereby neutralize acids in the soil.
There are many kinds of lime on the market and usually the only difference between the various types of limes is the magnesium content and its antacid value (ability to neutralize acids).
Lime fertilizers should only be applied after a soil-analysis determines the PH, organic matter composition, and clay content of the soil.
Test kits for determining soil PH are not only inaccurate for measuring soil PH, they also don’t take into account the soil composition. Depending on the organic matter composition of the soil, a certain amount of lime is needed to raise the PH of the soil by one unit.
By applying too much lime to the soil, permanent damage may result.
Once lime has been applied to the soil it can NOT be washed out. It may take up to 10 years for the soil to recover as the PH slowly drops over time.
The types of lime listed in the table below all fall under the category of carbonic-magnesia limes.
Listed is the MgO (magnesium content) in percentages varying from 0 to 35% MgO and an antacid binding value between 44 and 110 (this is what actually raises the PH of your soil).
From a chemical perspective, there is relatively little difference between the types of limestone above. They are all different combinations of magnesium and calcium carbonates.
In all types of limestone there are trace elements present in natural form.
Many other types of lime fertilizer waste products are marketed as lime fertilizers.
The above list includes lime fertilizers that can be found in garden centers and agricultural cooperatives, or available for professional green care (in the Netherlands).
Alternatives to Lime:
1. Thomas slag / phosphatic slag.
This amendment has an antacid value of 40% and contains 11~16% phosphate.
This additive is only a viable alternative for lime if extra phosphate is desired.
This amendment is not easily found and may be mixed with potassium salts.
2. Magnesium carbonate (pure) The magnesium content and antacid value are high.
Not a soil amendment for general use.
3. Natural phosphate contains an antacid value of about 20% and 26~29% phosphate.
This additive is only a viable alternative for lime if extra phosphate is desired.
4. Calcium nitrate, calcium ammonium nitrate and nitrogen lime are NOT alternatives for lime, the first two result in a higher soil PH, and use of nitrogen lime should be avoided due to unfavorable properties for both soil and humans.
Physical properties of lime:
Lime is often supplied as a dry powder. The advantage of powdered lime is that the product is easy to mix in with the soil, which is important. The downside is dusting, making it an unpleasant task if appropriate technical means are not available to disperse the product properly.
Other limes are available as a wet powder, this lime is slightly moist and therefore does not result in dust. Even distribution of wet lime on soil is slightly more difficult than with dry lime, but still acceptable.
Garden centers often sell granulated lime. The advantage over powdered lime is the convenience of being able to cleanly and easily spread the lime, the disadvantage is that distribution throughout the soil is less than optimal because lime by itself does not mix well with soil. However, distribution over a large area is often more even with pellets than with a powdered lime.
Dosage / Instructions:
Application of lime is only recommended if the soil PH is low.
If the pH of the soil is close to the target value, applying lime as a maintenance fertilizer is recommended.
When soil PH is high, application of lime is not advised. It can be more harmful than helpful.
Always spread the lime evenly throughout the growing layer of the soil.
Impurities / contaminants:
No relevant contaminants are known.
Side effects / disadvantages:
none
Contact with plants:
When in direct contact with plants, lime usually causes limited damage.
When spreading lime over the crop, lime particles or dust may cause damage to the foliage.
Rinse the plants with plenty of water after applying lime.
Application in organic gardening /agriculture:
Virtually all types of lime are permitted in biological agriculture.
Some forms of biological maerl / coral algae lime / lithotamnium may not be used in biological farming as the source of the lime cannot be determined (or harvesting methods may not be ecologically sound).
