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Electrical Help Please!

I need a bit of advice on how I can set this up properly.

I want to put a block of 4 outlets where the light fixture is. I could care less if they are powered by the light switch. I'm no electrician but I know I can do this.

I drew up a quick (retarded) sketch of what I already have.



I'm looking for a safe way to do this. I have an idea of what I have to do, I just would rather know for sure, from someone experienced.

What do I need?

Any suggestions?
 

PharmaCan

Active member
Veteran
So, do you just want to take out the light fixture and replace it with receptacles? You need to be a little more specific about what you want to do.

PC :smoker:
 

Hydropimp

Active member
Veteran
before you find out what you want to do you need to know what you will be connecting to the quad switch in amp's.

After you find out what you want to connect you will need to see what wire is beinging used.
 
Ok you want 4 recepticle. Lets say you want 4x 1k watters thats like 40 amps and you'll need bigger wires then the standard household wire which is only rated at 15amps(14wire). Most household(If you live in America) wires are already set for 120v which is 1hot wire and 1 neautral(black and white). You really need to run new wires if you want more recepticles for lights.

If you live in the States I suggest you running new wires. If your running it into a room made for grow i suggest you get a x-3 wire that means that x being the size of the wire(being able to take whatever amperage your going to use) 3 meaning 4 wires that is in 1 stripe(1red, 1black both of those are hot, 1white for neutral, 1 ground). If you run that to your grow space you'll be able to run X amount of 240v for your ballast and 120v for your fans ect.

This is a more advandced procedure but its really simple.
 
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PharmaCan - Yeah dude that's all I want to do.

HydroPimp - I plan on adding my 400 magnetic and another 600 digital later into the grow. I also use a closet sized humidifier or dehumidifier, whatever fits the situation. I have one 6 inch inline fan for ventilation and 2 more small ground fans for circulation. Lastly, I'll have about 6-8 pumps hooked up for the buckets, prolly 2 air stones to a bucket.

wafflehouselove, that's too complex for me dude. Thanks for the help and input, it's a small grow, about 1k total and thats at flower.

So, now what do I need? haha.
 

PharmaCan

Active member
Veteran
OK - so the first thing you need to do is look at the wire in your light box and see what size it is. Then you can determine if the wire/circuit will handle the load.

PC :smoker:
 
G

Guest

The first thing you need to consider is what other loads that circuit is feeding(where the line splits from the switch)and whether they will be used along with your new stuff.You dont want to overload the circuit.Its probably a 15A circuit and you can only draw 12A total.Mechanically speaking you want to remove the lampholder and the box that houses it unless it is a 4 inch square box.You want to use a deep 4 square too for 4 receptacles.You need to pigtail the receptacles which is simple but I want to see if you're understanding what I'm saying.You will need to replace the box with a deep 4 inch square box because those little porcelin lampholders dont require them.They are usually mounted on shallow octagonal boxes
 
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G

Guest

Normal wiring from around the 60's through 2000 have from 7 to 10 ceiling light and even outdoor and entry lights on the SAME circuit. Temporarily attach your ballast and light to the ceiling light wiring.

Next walk through the house and turn on every light switch you have, hallway, bedrooms, closets, kitchen and baths, include the ceiling exhaust fans, front and back porch. THEN go outside and make sure the lighting is on there too( all bulbs working). and finally go into your grow room and turn on he ballast.

If it works without dimming the lights elsewhere you are probably OK, If a breaker trips you're Not. Leave all lights, grow lamp included on for 3 hours, for test purposes.

Safety first,

TyStik

Please note the run time change for the test is 3 hours, not 1 hour. Typo error. A continuous load is a load of 3 or more hours. Sorry 'bout that.
 
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Ty-Stik, I will be following your path tomorrow afternoon and reporting back as soon as I'm finished. I'll check wire gauges, and take actual photos for more in depth help. Thanks agian IC for coming through.
 

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