Early=Moldy?

[f-e]

I see more than a strong correlation between early plants and low mold resistance. I'm about ready to give up on really early indoors, and have already stopped using them outdoors.
I know other people must of noticed this, it's like I can call it from the catalogue. I suspect there is a very early male being used in breeding circles, that offers the trade off of low resistance.

Is there something I should know about?

 

[aliceklar]

Good question. Subbed!

 

[goingrey]

Do you mean the Californian early strains like Early Girl and Early Pearl? They are bred for September finishing in California and I believe that is a dry time of the year there, so mold resistance wouldn't be selected for.

 

[aliceklar]

Do you mean the Californian early strains like Early Girl and Early Pearl? They are bred for September finishing in California and I believe that is a dry time of the year there, so mold resistance wouldn't be selected for.

That's interesting... the one strain I've grown so far where I had mould issues was Michka (Sensi seeds), which has Early Pearl in its ancestry.

 

[Creeperpark]

High humidity and low airflow are the primary causes of white mold. Planting your weed without adequate spacing where it cannot get proper air circulation, or overwatering your garden or potting soil can create prime conditions for white mold to grow on almost any plant.

 

[f-e]

I picked up the green something fast version recently. Later I saw posts and then advertising that state it's susceptible. I then chatted with one of the testers, who ran the standard for years, then the fast, and he slated it for reasons including mold. He actually fell out with the breeder as he wouldn't keep his findings to himself. He posts here..

I just did the now extinct C99 fast version, and it rotted in a favourable room position. I lost maybe a third.

I just keep seeing it with my indoor fasts. Outdoors I just did one year with some and chucked the rest. The breeder offered me more, but I didn't reply. These are the new fasts I speak of, that tend to be fast versions of more known variants. Not the traditionally quick plants we have done for decades.

I don't like to name names, and really it's widespread enough that I shouldn't.

 

[GMT]

Interesting question. Silicon helps, but it's not a vaccine. Just bumping the thread really.

 

[Creeperpark]

I do know that if one grows a desert plant in the tropics or a tropical plant in the desert, he'll experience problems in both places. In that aspect, f-e is right on choosing a good seed plays an important role in keeping mold down. Matching the seed with the growing conditions is a must. Nothing worse than having to throw weed away cause of mold.

 

[f-e]

I think the 'fast' comes from the cold wet north. Averages of 80% RH are common in Nordic & Icelandic regions. 70% is remarkably dry.

I'm seeing this clear as day, but this location is difficult anyway. With all my numbers where I want them, there is a higher incidence of mold than there should be anyway. Even my header tank needed extra attention. I know it's in the air. Perhaps I simply have a mold here that's not in the 'fasts' native environment. Maybe bought up from the equator by migratory birds. However, I did expect some affirmation from this thread.

Puzzled...

Thanks Peeps

 

[goingrey]

"Fast" is different than "early" in cannabis seed marketing.

The "fast" varieties are F1 hybrids between photoperiod and autoflowering plants.

So there won't be a common "fast" male (can't keep auto males around except with really advanced tech like tissue culture maybe). But they are all related (to Lowryder). Not sure if this is the reason for the issues you've experienced or coincidental, after all plenty of people seem to have good success with even full autos.

 

[f-e]

"Fast" is different than "early" in cannabis seed marketing.

The "fast" varieties are F1 hybrids between photoperiod and autoflowering plants.

So there won't be a common "fast" male (can't keep auto males around except with really advanced tech like tissue culture maybe). But they are all related (to Lowryder). Not sure if this is the reason for the issues you've experienced or coincidental, after all plenty of people seem to have good success with even full autos.

This was on my mind to. Though I don't think everyone is sticking to the same strategy. I have bought early stuff for outdoor, that turned out to be semi-auto so I couldn't get cuts. I'm not sure that the auto gene brings about speed, having done a fair few auto's and dabbled with breeding them amongst themselves and some of my better photo-plants of that time. I can't say that the auto gene did anything notable to the flowering time tbh. Though surely a plant that flowers at 18 hours, should be in a hurry at 12. I have seen that sort of spread in a single 10 pack, where some couldn't go inside as they were toasted at 40 days. Another I still have. It goes 56 days, but was later outside (where I do it, mainly). This makes them look like different quotas of the same thing. I do notice hairs browning very early on, like Day 24 usually. So maybe it is this feeling they are late in the season that's causing a faster flower but also a faster dying back of the first bits that formed. Leading to the early mold. That really does seem realistic in isolation. It doesn't fit the wider audience though. I will counter again, with the amount of mold I see in the auto's, most of which are done by newbies. Newbies that often post pics not knowing it's gone bad. Perhaps I should do an auto just to see. I have lots, but have stored them with the love I have for bird seed. Non at all.

The fasts I have will stay in veg indefinitely, so could be shared. Though passing that speed on would be a lengthy process. F1 is certainly common, and seen in the name of some.

 

[aliceklar]

If plants are bred in fairly sterile conditions, especially if fungicide is used prophylactically, then they are likely to have less mould resistance because there will have been no opportunity to select for it. Denser buds and shorter internode distances also increase the potential for mould, and obviously those bigger buds are desirable so that is the direction that breeding tends to go. Those are just facts of the game. But f-e had something more specific in mind, with particular male studs that were passing on extreme susceptibility into their otherwise outstanding offspring. would it be useful to try to get a list of strains that are particularly susceptible, environmental conditions aside?

 

[Creeperpark]

One observation I have made is that fast flowering plant stems almost always stay dark green and long-season plants stems turn yellowish at the end. I never had any mold on any long-season plants ever!!! I have a 9-month growing season. My outdoor planting starts last 2 weeks in Feb. and flowers up until Nov. I can't grow in the wild anymore, I miss it.

 

[Creeperpark]

One year I planted a couple of fast flowering plants in a long season. It turned out to be a waste of time and energy so I never did it again. Here photos

 

[Creeperpark]

Heres are some yellow stem plants in the same year so you can see what I'm talking about. Dark green stemmed plants are much more vulnerable to mold.

 

[f-e]

You might have something there CreeperPark. I switched to LED with with setup that's been trialing 7 or 8 different fasts. I noticed more N consumption that I thought was the LEDs but others hadn't seen that difference with LED. Its quite possible that the fasts were taking the N. It was some plants more than others and not all have been a problem. The Killer Kush F1 Fast Version has been with me a good few years now and has no problems. In short, all the others have not been good. So I won't single any out. This last run I made a special effort to reduce N, and it's the latest I have seen the mold arrive. That is the interesting observation that ties in with your green stems. A trait I will have to look at in later flower. I can already say that I think you are right about the fasts and green. I have the KKFV and a normal crit kush and both have noticeably lighter stems.

Maybe there is something to this

 

[goingrey]

Genetic susceptibility to mold is one thing but unhealthy plants are surely susceptible no matter the genetics. If the plants need a lot of nitrogen... give them a lot of nitrogen. Why the effort to reduce it, just some test?

 

[f-e]

Genetic susceptibility to mold is one thing but unhealthy plants are surely susceptible no matter the genetics. If the plants need a lot of nitrogen... give them a lot of nitrogen. Why the effort to reduce it, just some test?

Recurring issues mid flower. Problems meeting K demand that lowering N helped with. I feed about half strength, but with enough calmag that the N is almost full strength. A use PK to balance it. By mid bloom the N from the calmag is just too much though. I switched to mono calcium and epsom. I was not thinking about the mold when I did it, but looking at it now, it might be a key variable