Dual root system?

[Guest]

I brought this up one night with another farmer, and we werent sure if this were possible or not...

I like LST'ing....

What would happen if I topped, and LST'd and clonex'd the top of a plnant into new soil - would it grow a dual root system or no?

 

[vhGhost]

yep .. it would .. its a form of cloning, and eventually the new roots would take over and the branch that started it would break of!

Panamajuicy has a great thread on this subject.... take care
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=23685

 

[Guest]

yep .. it would .. its a form of cloning, and eventually the new roots would take over and the branch that started it would break of!

really? thats all that would happen? it wouldnt form into a huge arched plant growing twice as fast as any normally would?

 

[vhGhost]

that i don't really know, i would assume that the new roots on the "new plant" would take over and break of the old plant, i dont think 2 plants can share root systems...

 

[Guest]

Where's Sproutco when you need him this topic is really intresting me

 

[Guest]

I believe it's called layering....let me see what I have on it...edit: taken from the book Marijuana botany by Robert C. Clarke......

Layering
Layering is a process in which roots develop on a stem while it remains attached to, and nutritionally sup- ported by the parent plant. The stem is then detached and the meristematic tip becomes a new individual, growing on its own roots, termed a layer. Layering differs from cutting because rooting occurs while the shoot is still attached to the parent. Rooting is initiated in layering by various stem treatments which interrupt the downward flow of photosynthates (products of photosynthesis) from the shoot tip. This causes the accumulation of auxins, carbohydrates and other growth factors. Rooting occurs in this treated area even though the layer remains attached to the parent. Water and mineral nutrients are supplied by the parent plant because only the phloem has been inter- rupted; the xylem tissues connecting the shoot to the parental roots remain intact (see illus. 1, page 29). In this manner, the propagator can overcome the problem of keep- ing a severed cutting alive while it roots, thus greatly in- creasing the chances of success. Old woody reproductive stems that, as cuttings, would dry up and die, may be rooted by layering. Layering can be very time-consuming and is less practical for mass cloning of parental stock than removing and rooting dozens of cuttings. Layering, however, does give the small-scale propagator a high-success alternative which also requires less equipment than cuttings. Techniques of Layering
Almost all layering techniques rely on the principle of etiolation. Both soil layering and air layering involve de- priving the rooting portion of the stem of light, promoting rooting. Root-promoting substances and fungicides prove beneficial, and they are usually applied as a spray or pow- der. Root formation on layers depends on constant mois- ture, good air circulation and moderate temperatures at the site of rooting. Soil Layering
Soil layering may be performed in several ways. The most common is known as tip layering. A long, supple vegetative lower limb is selected for layering, carefully bent so it touches the ground, and stripped of leaves and small shoots where the rooting is to take place. A narrow trench, 6 inches to a foot long and 2 to 4 inches deep, is dug paral- lel to the limb, which is placed along the bottom of the trench, secured with wire or wooden stakes, and buried with a small mound of soil. The buried section of stem may be girdled by cutting, crushed with a loop of wire, or twisted to disrupt the phloem tissue and cause the accumu- lation of substances which promote rooting. It may also be treated with growth regulators at this time.
Serpentine layering may be used to create multiple layers along one long limb. Several stripped sections of the limb are buried in separate trenches, making sure that at least one node remains above ground between each set of roots to allow shoots to develop. The soil surrounding the stem is kept moist at all times and may require wetting several times a day. A small stone or stick is inserted under each exposed section of stem to prevent the lateral shoot buds rotting from constant contact with the moist soil sur- face. Tip layers and serpentine layers may be started in small containers placed near the parental plant. Rooting usually begins within two weeks, and layers may be re- moved with a sharp razor or clippers after four to six weeks. If the roots have become well established, trans- planting may be difficult without damaging the tender root system. Shoots on layers continue to grow under the same conditions as the parent, and less time is needed for the clone to acclimatize or harden-off and begin to grow on its own than with cuttings.
In air layering, roots form on the aerial portions of stems that have been girdled, treated with growth regula- tors, and wrapped with moist rooting media. Air layering is an ancient form of propagation, possibly invented by the Chinese. The ancient technique of goo tee uses a ball of clay or soil plastered around a girdled stem and held with a wrap of fibers. Above this is suspended a small container of water (such as a bamboo section) with a wick to the wrapped gootee; this way the gootee remains moist.
The single most difficult problem with air layers is the tendency for them to dry out quickly. Relatively small amounts of rooting media are used, and the position on aerial parts of the plant exposes them to drying winds and sun. Many wraps have been tried, but the best seems to be clear polyethylene plastic sheeting which allows oxygen to enter and retains moisture well. Air layers are easiest to make in greenhouses where humidity is high, but they may also be used outside as long as they are kept moist and don't freeze. Air layers are most useful to the amateur propagator and breeder because they take up little space and allow the efficient cloning of many individuals.
Making an Air Layer
A recently sexed young limb 3-10 mm (1/8 to 3/8 inch) in diameter is selected. The site of the layer is usually a spot 30 centimeters (12 inches) or more from the limb tip. Unless the stem is particularly strong and woody, it is splinted by positioning a 30 centimeter (12 inch) stick of approximately the same diameter as the stem to be layered along the bottom edge of the stem. This splint is tied in place at both ends with a piece of elastic plant-tie tape. This enables the propagator to handle the stem more con- fidently. An old, dry Cannabis stem works well as a splint. Next, the stem is girdled between the two ties with a twist of wire or a diagonal cut. After girdling, the stem is sprayed or dusted with a fungicide and growth regulator, sur- rounded with one or two handfuls of unmilled sphagnum moss, and wrapped tightly with a small sheet of clear poly- ethylene film (4-6 mil). The film is tied securely at each end, tightly enough to make a waterproof seal but not so tight that the phloem tissues are crushed. If the phloem is crushed, compounds necessary for rooting will accumulate outside of the medium and rooting will be slowed. Plastic florist's tape or electrician's tape works well for sealing air layers. Although polyethylene film retains moisture well, the moss will dry out eventually and must be remoistened periodically. Unwrapping each layer is impractical and would disturb the roots, so a hypodermic syringe is used to inject water, nutrients, fungicides, and growth regulators. If the layers become too wet the limb rots. Layers are checked regularly by injecting water until it squirts out and then very lightly squeezing the medium to remove any extra water. Heavy layers on thin limbs are supported by tying them to a large adjacent limb or a small stick an- chored in the ground. Rooting begins within two weeks and roots will be visible through the clear plastic within four weeks. When the roots appear adequately developed, the layer is removed, carefully unwrapped, and trans- planted with the moss and the splint intact. The layer is watered well and placed in a shady spot for a few days to allow the plant to harden-off and adjust to living on its own root system. It is then placed in the open. In hot weather, large leaves are removed from the shoot before removing the layer to prevent excessive transpiration and wilting.
Layers develop fastest just after sexual differentiation. Many layers may be made of staminate plants in order to save small samples of them for pollen collection and to conserve space. By the time the pollen parents begin to flower profusely, the layers will be rooted and may be cut and removed to an isolated area. Layers taken from pistil- late plants are used for breeding, or saved and cloned for the following season.
Layers often seem rejuvenated when they are re- moved from the parent plant and begin to be supported by their own root systems. This could mean that a clone will continue to grow longer and mature later than its parent under the same conditions. Layers removed from old or seeded parents will continue to produce new calyxes and pistils instead of completing the life cycle along with the parents. Rejuvenated layers are useful for off-season seed production.



I have the rest of the book w/o photos if anyone wants....stay safe

 

[Guest]

Wow - thats amazing.

I was totally expecting responses like "smoke it less dude"

 

[inflorescence]

really? thats all that would happen? it wouldnt form into a huge arched plant growing twice as fast as any normally would?

It would probably only grow twice as big (not twice as fast) if the new roots had the space to grow. If the orig roots are bounding the container the new roots will be of little use. You could lst and root the new shoot into a separate container (so you'd have one plant with two root systems in two different containers) but what's the point, you might as well just grow two different plants then.