Hi guys. When constructing a grow room, is there any advantage as far as isolating/reducing transfer of smell by using treated drywall versus the standard stuff. By treated, I mean the stuff with the coating that is mold resistant. I'm just thinking that if it is tougher for moisture to penetrate it, maybe it's more difficult for the smell to seep through it. Any ideas or thoughts on this?
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drywall vs treated drywall for isolating smell
- Thread starter rr14
- Start date
B
badugi
I think I'm with Bozo. I've also researched the mold-resistant drywall a little when considering wall options and concluded that it isn't very useful for our applications (and costs roughly 2x standard drywall).
Eventually went with Glasteel tileboard panels, fiberglass & resin combo. $28 per 4x8 panel, helluva more expensive than ~$6 5/8" FC drywall, but consider the fact that it will never mold, get soaked, or otherwise deteriorate. Also consider that you'll never need any panda film or other dressing on the surface. Just wipe down with a sponge, bleach & water.
Eventually went with Glasteel tileboard panels, fiberglass & resin combo. $28 per 4x8 panel, helluva more expensive than ~$6 5/8" FC drywall, but consider the fact that it will never mold, get soaked, or otherwise deteriorate. Also consider that you'll never need any panda film or other dressing on the surface. Just wipe down with a sponge, bleach & water.
B
badugi
Excellent point, PC. Vapor barriers help a lot.
Joey Roastbeef
Member
you can also put a nice thick bead of caulk, to seal the space between the floor and drywall.
also just so people know that the paper on the back of green board will grow mold if there is moisture. i've seen it when demo-ing bathrooms. the new paper-less boards i have only insalled and either need a skim coat to be smooth, or a texture sprayed on it since it seems like it has like a woven string covering than a paper like regular drywall.
i wonder if anyone has used FRP (fiberglass resin panels) panels in a room or closet? i know in the area that i work it has a small pebble like finish, a lite texture to it. but since it's plastic no worries about water, or use bleach to clean it between grows. not sure if a smooth panel is made, but i don't see why not.
also just so people know that the paper on the back of green board will grow mold if there is moisture. i've seen it when demo-ing bathrooms. the new paper-less boards i have only insalled and either need a skim coat to be smooth, or a texture sprayed on it since it seems like it has like a woven string covering than a paper like regular drywall.
i wonder if anyone has used FRP (fiberglass resin panels) panels in a room or closet? i know in the area that i work it has a small pebble like finish, a lite texture to it. but since it's plastic no worries about water, or use bleach to clean it between grows. not sure if a smooth panel is made, but i don't see why not.
B
badugi
That'd be me. Got the Glasteel brand FRP's, white with textured pebble finish. Yes, they also make smooth panels (as well as many other textures):Joey Roastbeef said:
badugi said:
Some old construction pics (hard to see the surface, but gives you an idea):
First time with this material... first time paneling... first time with pretty much everything, actually. Figured out most things intuitively & through common sense, but also learned a lot of lessons from hands-on experience (in my former life I was an "office job" geek) which will definitely help a lot in future projects.
I should also mention that, when working 100% solo, the $28 FRP's are well worth the price on transportation & the ease of installation alone (not to mention the other positives mentioned earlier), compared to a $5-6 drywall panel.
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Joey Roastbeef
Member
badugi said:
when you said tileboard i thought you used the 4x8 panel that look like they have 4"x4" tile on them
any more pics of your room, i'm intrested in it since you did the frp, and what if any pro/cons with frp?
to add to the original post, being a commerical painter, i am unaware of a coating that would reduce the odor from within the room. the one thing that i could suggest is a coating that would be easy to clean and very hard to stain would be an added benefit to a charcoal canister added to the ventilation of the space. so basiclly either a coating with a semi to gloss finish, or an epoxy (even better, since today they make one part no mixing, and water based). i know some will disagree and say flat is the best finish. but IMHO if you don't want deal with putting up poly, or mylar what i suggested would be your best bet. the semi and gloss finish will be able to be cleaned with a mild detergant and but able to be lighty scrubbed and still retain it's finish. the epoxy will hold up even better and longer to harsher cleaning agents and scrubbing, since it drys to a harder finish than your typical latex house paint and some epoxys can even be steamed cleaned. the flat won't hold up as much if you have a little bit of dirt on you hands thats its the wall is dirty and has to be cleaned and painted to look new.
the flat you'll have to repaint more oftend then semi or gloss, epoxy might last longer than your growing, and FRP might just last longer. but is more cost and labor up front, but less matience in the long run.
hope that helps a bit.
B
badugi
Some more older pics...
Pretty tired right now... been up all night catching up on random tidbits and need to sleep pretty bad, but more pics later.
Pretty tired right now... been up all night catching up on random tidbits and need to sleep pretty bad, but more pics later.
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Joey Roastbeef
Member
very nice, that set-up looks serious daugi.
in the pic you posted before i was going to mention the fact that you didn't need to screw the panel and that glueing is the preferred application. i figured screwing would of been quicker than glueing it. but now seeing that you didn't have any drywall to glue it to, it pretty much answered that.
in the pic you posted before i was going to mention the fact that you didn't need to screw the panel and that glueing is the preferred application. i figured screwing would of been quicker than glueing it. but now seeing that you didn't have any drywall to glue it to, it pretty much answered that.
B
badugi
I actually used both glue & screws. I used the screws "just to be sure". Remember that I have zero previous experience with this type of work so I'm going by intuition & "feel"... had no idea whether just the glue would hold it or not, especially during the set time. I considered simply screwing just the top edge to make sure the panel stays on 'til the adhesive sets, but can't really hurt to have extra screws. Additionally, I thought the bead of glue would help create an air-tight seal against the studs, or at least more air-tight than w/o glue. I used the Liquid Nails Heavy Duty adhesive.
I had originally planned on stapling a sheet of vapor barrier on top of the studs to cover the R-13 insulation, but changed my mind and felt the glue might perform better. The other side of the R-13 already has a vapor retardant backing + staple strip.
(All of this information / discussion was in the original build thread, now gone thanks to NurseFraudBlueshirts).
I had originally planned on stapling a sheet of vapor barrier on top of the studs to cover the R-13 insulation, but changed my mind and felt the glue might perform better. The other side of the R-13 already has a vapor retardant backing + staple strip.
(All of this information / discussion was in the original build thread, now gone thanks to NurseFraudBlueshirts).
