Dryer plug to power outlet?

[Danknuggler]

I used the search and read a ton of shit and still cant find what I need so..Do they make a cord that you can just plug into the dryer oulet that has a power box on it with say 4 regular outlets for 120?I don't know electricity at all.Is the dryer oulets 220 or 240 or what?MY lights are 120. Do they make it so you can plug your 120 lights into a box that comes of of 220?I need to run 3 1000's plus 6' vortex and 2 regular ocsilating fans.I was at the grow shop they had the dryer cord with nothing on the end.need help and I don't know anything at all.I need to run it maybe 15 ft or so from garage through the floor upstairs into walk in closet.thanks for any help. nuggler

 

[sparkjumper]

Your dryer plug is 240V and if it were me I'd run my fixtures on 240V,its a matter of switching one wire inside the ballast box.I would mount a 30A subpanel right there over the dryer outlet and run branch circuits from there.If you have no electrical knowledge though you probably should get help.I run 3 1K HPS myself what I did is use an intermatic "little gray box" 240V hot water heater timer,perfect for running HID lights.You need to run #10 AWG size wire for 3 1K fixtures,trust me 12 wire on a 20A breaker is cutting it too short,I know from experience.You want 10 wire on a 20A breaker for the lighting circuit 2 pole 240V of course

 

[madpenguin]

They make timer boxes as you describe but they usually come with 240v receptacles for lights and one 120v receptacle for accessories. Having your lights run at 120v is problematic in this instance as sparkjumper says. Each ballast will draw upwards to 10A on 120v. Your already over the limit without even adding your fans.

I'd suggest having a qualified individual rewire your ballasts or if your using ballasts that are already 240v capable, then buy the new cords (from the manufacturer) to make them operate at 240v.

If it is a multi-tap ballast (capable of 120 & 240) but the manufacturer makes no "adapter" cords to switch back and forth, then you only have 2 choices. Either rewire the ballasts for 240v or run new branch circuits from your main panel.

If it's not a multi-tap, and can only run on 120v, then your stuck with running new branch circuits from your main panel.

Once you get all that sorted, you would still be hard pressed to find a timer box with a 15' cord on it. Cords of that type really shouldn't exceed 6' for safety reasons. If running new branch circuits from the main panel isn't an option, then you could go with sparkjumper's suggestion (after converting your ballasts to 240v) and make a small subpanel to plug into the dryer receptacle, then run branch circuits out of that up to your closet. Even that is against code tho. You can't have premise wiring attached "plug and cord" style.

Your working with several limitations here so I'm afraid there is no cut and dry answer. Not until you resolve your initial issues. Those being: 120v ballasts and distance from dryer receptacle to grow area.

 

[PharmaCan]

To answer your questions about 220/240 vs 120 - 240 volt electricity, in the USA at least, is actually two 120 volt lines that are combined to make 240v. It used to be that the electricity delivered to your house was 110 volts, so that doubled was 220v. Now the electricity is ~120 volts (at my home it's 125v), so that doubled is 240v.

"220 volts" is part of the lexicon, but that's about it anymore. When people say 220v, they're actually talking about 240v.

PC

 

[Greensub]

Expensive but cool solution...

http://westcoasthydro.net/cart/30-amp-dryer-timer-box-p-120.html

 

[Elcap]

Run your ballast on 240 and build yourself one of these for about $100:

instructions here: http://www.rollitup.org/do-yourself/131039-diy-4-6-light-controller.html