Dry Sift Screens

[Sativa King]

Quick question for you guys. I am looking at getting some screens for making nice dry sift. I am wondering if these 2 sizes are acceptable?? 32/83-100w with a micron thickness of 169um.
90/230-48Y with a micron thickness of 78um.

 

[PTDTTLHS]

"32/83-100w with a micron thickness of 169um."

I'm not familiar with 32/83-100w......but if you mean that the distance between each thread on the mesh is 169 micron then that can be used for sifting. 160 micron mesh approximately equals the same size "100 Mesh" (or 100 lines per inch mesh which is the USA measure for meshes, 169 micron mesh would be similar to 90 Mesh in the USA. Europe and most of the world uses micron measurements for sifting or screen printing mesh, US Mesh is a count of the number of threads per inch and micron mesh is an exact measurement of the distance between each thread ..other measurements like the one you are referring to I guess may be for textiles, rather than for separation or screen printing uses.


"90/230-48Y with a micron thickness of 78um."

After sifting the material with the 169 micron mesh then you can card the resin over the 78 micron mesh to separate the finer (than 78 micron sized) contaminant and small resin heads from the mature (greater than 78 micron in size) resin heads...anyway, that's one of many ways.

and while you can make quantity with a 169 micron mesh and clean it up with a 78 micron mesh screen, it has been suggested that a 140 ~ 160 micron mesh and a 60 ~ 70 micron mesh would be better to use, that's if it's available, if not then you will still be able to produce excellent quality dry sift with a gentle technique sifting small amounts of material at a time for a short duration with the screens available.

I'd suggest gently re-sifting the resin through the 169 mesh again and then card it repeatedly over the 78 micron..and depending on the material you are using the stuff that falls through the 78 micron mesh will be good to smoke or only good for cooking or extraction with chemical solvents..and if chemical extraction is not for you, keep in mind that thoroughly sifted material is very low in THC (I haven't tested it in a lab, but smoking big joints of thoroughly sifted bud wouldn't get a mouse buzzed).

and even if you are aiming to remove all the resin from the material then a 169 mesh would be a good choice, keep in mind that when aiming for quantity, I'd suggest not separating the sifted resin into 1st, 2nd grades etc as only the first run will be easily press-able and the other more contaminated grades won't easily press into a solid form and high from 2nd and 3rd grades will be weak ~ very weak compared to the 1st purer run..and instead keep it all together but even this fairly contaminated resin will be able to be pressed into a hash without the need for excessive heat and tonnes of pressure..and better still, even dry sift that is mostly contaminated with non-active bits of broken leaf dust, stalks etc, it will be still be much more potent than the material it came from and you will be smoking 3 or 5 times less of it so it's much better for you lungs. A good sign of when to stop sifting when trying to separate the maximum quantity of resin from the material (along, naturally, with magnification to monitor your progress) is when a small amount of the resin requires more than ten seconds of hard twisting and pressing with your thumb into your cupped palm to form into a hash, but hey, that's just a rough rule of thumb.

Incidentally, the term "rule of thumb" .refers to an old law that states a husband was allowed to hit his wife with a wooden stick that is the same size or smaller than a man's thumb.

Depending what my aim (quality, quantity or both) is and what size the resin heads are on the material I prefer to use 3 or 4 screens for sifting. 160, 140, 107 and 70 micron, these 4 screens can produce very pure resin and or lots of decent quality dry sift or both.

I usually, but not always sift my buds, all I do is remove the larger non-resinous leaves, dry it, store it then later sift it with the aim of removing just about all the resin heads on the material and I keep it all in one grade. Leaving on all the leaves until it is processed for sifting will help lessen any resin loss. The difference between poorly handled bud that has been roughly manicured, thrown in buckets, mangled, bashed, squashed in plastic bags etc and bud that is grown and processed with minimizing resin loss in mind at all times is sensationally different, the former will give you a buzz, but the same bud that hasn't been mauled will zing you brain! By the time a cash cropper has mauled the buds while growing, roughly handled them when drying, bashed them to pieces with a resin smudging auto trimming machine, bagged, squashed, re-bagged, transported several times, broken up, re-bagged etc about 30% of the resin on the original material has been lost, wasted, smudged, smeared and ruptured hence the dull stone you get from most bought bud and why the high from homegrown is so much better.

This resin from a maximum quantity run won't bubble due to too much contaminant but even so you will be inhaling 5 times less contaminant than smoking the same bud it came from and it's way more potent so one small bowl of the sift will get you higher than a joint made from the bud it came from. Everyone, who grows that is, should stop smoking bud with it's 90% plant matter and be sifting un-manicured bud into resin....for a cleaner, higher buzz.

anyway, keep on happy sifting!

 

[Sativa King]

Thanks for the info mate. I ended up getting some screens from the dry sift wizard. I am hoping to make some nice 90% plus heads!!

 

[DrySiftWizrd]

Any results Sativa King?