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droopy leafs... white skunk and chronic PICS UFO
- Thread starter msurfer7
- Start date
D
dillhole
Looks a little overwatered. What's the drainage like on those bags? What's your watering schedule?
DH
DH
D
dillhole
Have you checked the pH of the water and runoff? How old are the plants?
Ha, it may be easier if you fill out the trouble shooting form and post it here.
DH
Ha, it may be easier if you fill out the trouble shooting form and post it here.
DH
D
dillhole
It would be worth your trouble to pick up something to measure pH. Test strips work fine, that's what I use. In fact, I don't see how anyone grows without checking pH. The lower leaves look like there is some yellowing. Did the dead leaf turn yellow and fall off or was it damaged? This appears to be consistent with a N lockout.
Most peat based soils, especially MG, suffer from low pH after about 4 weeks. This is because the natural pH of peat is about 5. The new soil is buffered to about 7 with lime or something similar. About 4-8 weeks after the first watering, the buffer will get used up, resulting in a pH nutrient lockout.
To fix this, first make sure it is a pH problem. You need test strips or drops to confirm. If the runoff is low, you can either repot with fresh soil or flush the soil with a pH adjusted solution. For that I recommend some horticultural pH increaser (pH up). You can use hydrated lime instead but it's not as effective. If you repot, mix 1/4 cup of dolomite lime per 1 gallon of soil. This will keep the soil buffered for a long time.
DH
Most peat based soils, especially MG, suffer from low pH after about 4 weeks. This is because the natural pH of peat is about 5. The new soil is buffered to about 7 with lime or something similar. About 4-8 weeks after the first watering, the buffer will get used up, resulting in a pH nutrient lockout.
To fix this, first make sure it is a pH problem. You need test strips or drops to confirm. If the runoff is low, you can either repot with fresh soil or flush the soil with a pH adjusted solution. For that I recommend some horticultural pH increaser (pH up). You can use hydrated lime instead but it's not as effective. If you repot, mix 1/4 cup of dolomite lime per 1 gallon of soil. This will keep the soil buffered for a long time.
DH
i havent found any ph test strips around here,.. im in ven.ezuela.... i will have to pick some up next time i fly up there.
i have some espoma garden lime soposed to be better than hydrated.. i will use it when i transplant.
habeeb, you are right about the peat drying up fast, but i have a small tray that i use when i water, all the water that runs off is collected in the tray and then the peat absorbs it little by little until the bag is heavier.
i have some espoma garden lime soposed to be better than hydrated.. i will use it when i transplant.
habeeb, you are right about the peat drying up fast, but i have a small tray that i use when i water, all the water that runs off is collected in the tray and then the peat absorbs it little by little until the bag is heavier.
better than hydrated? that stuff is like lime on steroids, lol. be sure to check the label for application amount. it's hard to correct over limed mix.
D
dillhole
That's right. Dolomite lime is what you want to mix with the soil. It's slow acting and will buffer the soil for a long time. Hydrated lime can be mixed with water and used to raise soil pH. It will make your pH strips black but dont freak out. It is a very weak base and will be neutralized by acidic soil very quickly. That's why pH up and down work better, they are stronger bases and acids.
It's always better to prevent pH problems than have to correct em...
It would be a good idea to transplant to larger pots and add some dolomite lime to the new soil. Do that and the plants should thank you.
DH
BurmeseDragon
Member
Grow bags suck, you need something to secure those! Fact is your to wet in locations and not wet enough in others, for roots to migrate! Try a consistent feeding/watering, thus being a confused separation of nature! Just to dry honestly and to wet!
All that money on a UFO and grow bags to fit the budget!
All that money on a UFO and grow bags to fit the budget!
lowshovel1
New member
Lowering PH
Lowering PH
I seen in the main thread that Ph can be lowered with lemon juice. I have ph levels between 6.8 and 7.0 and would like to lower a bit. Growing in FFOF soil, any sugestons on ratio of amount of lemon juice to 1 gallon of water?
Lowering PH
I seen in the main thread that Ph can be lowered with lemon juice. I have ph levels between 6.8 and 7.0 and would like to lower a bit. Growing in FFOF soil, any sugestons on ratio of amount of lemon juice to 1 gallon of water?
southpaw
Member
I seen in the main thread that Ph can be lowered with lemon juice. I have ph levels between 6.8 and 7.0 and would like to lower a bit. Growing in FFOF soil, any sugestons on ratio of amount of lemon juice to 1 gallon of water?
Lemon juice is too weak to have much effect on soil PH. Get a bona fide PH Up/ Down product. The fish section at a pet store will bail you out in a pinch.
But unless your plants are visibly having trouble absorbing something, I'd stick with that 6.8/ 7.0 number in FFOF. That is a very biologically active mix that should acidify slightly on its own just through natural processes. Your current PH should be just fine.
PLAY_mound430
New member
i have been having the same problem with one plant in particular. The other plant will perk right up after a watering but this plan tends to stay droopy.
lowshovel1
New member
Thanks southpaw, I made that 140 mile roundtrip to the hydro store yesterday and picked up some PH down,more ffof, perlite and cal-mag. I'll keep an eye on the ph, if it gets any hire than 7.0 I'll use the ph down.
