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drooping and yellowing

blynx

WALSTIB
Moderator
ICMag Donor
Veteran
This plant has been drooping for the last week. It droops whether the soil is dry or moist. It has been feed weak organic tea every other watering and is about a month and a half old.

The plan was to make this a mother and keep it in the 6" pot it is in. Could this be rootbound issues? Should I trim those giant fan leaves off to let more light hit the inner branches?
 
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Capt.Ahab

Feeding the ducks with a bun.
Veteran
Hard to tell from the perspective in the picture but the pot definitely looks small for the plant. Give it a watering with no nutes then gently transplant into a larger container.
Looks like the plant was doing well before it outgrew its "home" so transplanting would be the first thing I would try.
 

MTF-Sandman

OG Refugee
Veteran
You need to transplant them and up the feedings a little...what's the details of your setup/enviro/nutes?
 

stretchpup

Active member
It's not cause of the roots.

I have grown 2 foot seedlings in 16oz dixie cups for 2 months. Of course they were bound but they did well and displayed no symptoms like those above.

What kind or organic tea? She looks like she's dying for some pH'd earthworm casting juice.

My guess is your soil pH and feed pH are way off at this point. Peat has the tendancy to drop in pH over time.

You could always transplant up, let the roots grow and see if she gains vigor, then go back down, or re-clone and start a new mom.

These are all 5.25" pots:







Even those HUGE TWs in the back. 5.25 pot.

 

Nikijad4210

Member
Veteran
How do the roots look for those plants? They almost look like they're suffering from root rot....I lost two plants to root rot, yours look similar.

Then again, it also looks like maybe underwatering......How often do you water? And what kind of food are you giving them, out of curiousity?
 
Nikijad4210 said:
Then again, it also looks like maybe underwatering......How often do you water? And what kind of food are you giving them, out of curiousity?

I agree 100%. It definatley looks like a watering issue. Let the pot dry out completely then give it a big drink of water so you have water coming out of the drainage holes. Repeat the process once the plant is dry.

It's either that. Or I'd say a nitrogen deficiency. The way the leafs are yellowing and shrivelled on the bottom suggest that. If the leafs have been turning yellow by first starting at the tip, then working it's way back, and the yellowing is starting on the lowest level of leafs and moving up the plant, then it's an N deficiency.

Sooo, one or the two.. or both. Try watering good first. If you've been doing that then try the latter.

Good luck bro
 

Blackvelvet

Member
Wimpy plant = possible calcium deficiency

Wimpy plant = possible calcium deficiency

If you had dolomite lime in your soil mix, I bet most of its gone through repeated waterings. Does your tea contain calcium and magnesium? You can add cal mag with every watering if needed without harm by using 60 ppm calcium and 30 ppm magnesium. This works out to be 1/4 teaspoon calcium nitrate or calcium sulfate (powdered gypsum) along with 1/4 teaspoon epsom salts per gallon of water. Calcium chloride could be used as a source of calcium but to give a rate requires the net weight on the bottle along with the % calcium in it. If you want store bought ferts, try 7 ml cal mag plus per gallon of water instead. This still gives you 60 ppm ca. If your ph is too low, you could surface apply some powdered dolomite to get the cal mag. Try 1 1/5 to 2 teaspoons dol. lime per gallon of soil mix. The lime or cal mag plus would not supply sulfur like using the epsom salts or gypsum would. Don't forget sulfur is a macronutrient and quite important.

So the plant is now receiving cal, mag, and sulfur hopefully. This leaves npk and the micros iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, and molybdenum. A small pinch of table salt could be used for chlorine if you don't have a source like potassium chloride.

How to test soil ph: water/fert well then wait 30 minutes. Apply a small amount of distilled water to the surface till 1-2 ounces of runoff occurs. Test this ph.

You may want to ph adjust the teas after everything is brewed up. This prevents drastic ph shifts and surprises.

Feed weakly with every watering. CLF= constant liquid feed

About 20% of your fert water should pour out the bottom of the container. You want runoff.

:kos:


.
 
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blynx

WALSTIB
Moderator
ICMag Donor
Veteran
The soil was good when I started. It was a mix I made with soil/lime/bloodmeal/bonemeal/plantone/epsomsalt/perlite, activated wtih molasses, turned and aged for weeks before using. The plants took off in it and everything was going good til I messed up with feeding it a tea that prolly had the pH way outta whack. That's what started this.

I did a couple flushes, so there is prolly no lime or anything extra. The water comes out clear. I don't overwater, so that is not an issue. The roots look healthy they are just kinda rootbound, but this is gonna be a bonsai mother so that isn't really an issue either (I hope).

Here is what the leaves look like now, they look burned and/or deficient in something.


 

Blackvelvet

Member
Symptoms on new growth. Necrosis occurs at tip and margin of leaves causing a definite hook at leaf tip. Calcium is essential for the growth of shoot and root tips (meristems). Growing point dies. Margins of young leaves are scalloped and abnormally green and, due to inhibition of cell wall formation, the leaf tips may be "gelatinous" and stuck together inhibiting leaf unfolding. Stem structure is weak and peduncle collapse or shoot topple may occur. Roots are stunted. Premature shedding of fruit and buds is common. Downward curl of leaf tips (hooking) occurs near terminal bud. ammonium or magnesium excess may induce a calcium deficiency in plants... calcium deficiency

http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/damage/key.html
 
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