Door Hinges / woodworking help

[Bedlam]

Helloooooooooooo

so I just designed the wood-part of my cabinet and got all my plywood ripped at the local ACE, and i'm about to put it all together but i had just one question. what kind of hinges do I use? I might have designed it poorly, I didn't really take into account the hinges.

I designed it to be lightproof, let me try to explain this as best I can, I'll get some drawings up later but i'm no good at drawing 3-d.

anyway, once the box is assembled, the door will be able to sit on a half-inch lip on the inside of the box and be flush with the edges of the sides, top, and bottom panels. if you cant picture that, picture this: imagine a cube with one side missing (the door). if you take the door, it will fit exactly inside the cube, touching all of the inside panels with no extra room. now add a lip all the way around, a half inch into the cube, so that the door will still fit inside the box, but only just enough so that its exactly flush.

sorry, i'm retarded.

for those of you that are still with me, i got this idea from looking at some of the other cabs on here, and although none of them go in depth with the actual box construction process, it looks like some of them utilize a similar approach to the door. I could be wrong, but the one i had in mind was TheGhost's ( http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=31172 ).

If you look at this picture of his cab, http://www.icmag.com/gallery/data/500/12123Electrics.JPG , and notice especially the hinges and the edge of the cabinet, it looks kinda like what i'm envisioning. only, i was trying to think of how to attach a regular hinge, and i'm not sure if it would work. it would be sick to be able to use one thats invisible from the outside, like that one. anyone have any idea if that would work on mine, or what kind of hinge that is?

 

[Bedlam]

It appears to be a Soss hinge of some sort, can anyone give me more information on this? would it work?

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?offerings_id=268&cookietest=1


EDIT: actually it looks like its a euro hinge, and apparently they are adjustable so I will be trying those.

 

[tobaaaac]

They appear to be Euro style cup hinges. Brands like BLUM, GRASS, Hafele, etc make these. You can choose between full overlay, half over lay, and inset. Full overlay puts the door covering the box(3/4")sides fully. half only overlaps the box by about 3/8". Inset sets the door into the box. These hinges set into a 25mm hole into the door. The hinges come in two parts. the hinge and the plate. You need both. The plate is the same,well except if you get inset, but the hinge depends on if you want full,half, or inset.
It is best to do this on a drill press with a 25mm Forstner bit. If you go to Lowe's... Freud makes a forstner drill bit that says "made for Euro style hinges" on the package. You need to put the hinge cup a certain mm (millimeters) away from the edge of the door. Check with the manufactureereer for specs on installing the hinge.
Rockler.com carries these type as well as a zillion other people. My fave are BLUM inset half crank 120 degree hinges. Be sure to get the appropriate hinge as well as plate for your application.

 

[tobaaaac]

SoSS Hinges are brass barrel hinges. totally invisible. usually just for fine furniture or little boxes. they can be pricy..and NO adjustment.
The BLUM's that I was talking are very adjustable. front,back,up down, side to side.
I think the cups are running about 1.50 and the plates are about the same..but maybe a few pennies more. about 5 dollars a door basically.
I installed hundreds of these when I worked in a cabinet shop. You just got to put the hole for the cup in the right place. Rockler sells some jigs for this to make it easier to install. both for the cabinet..and the cup in the door.

 

[petemoss]

Say bedlam, I love that cab design by TheGhost! Someone posted a copy of his cab in the same thread, only the doors were different sizes. A narrow door over the veg section and a wide door covering the flower section. I think that's a great idea because you can work on the veg section without interrupting the dark period of the flowering plants. If I ever get around to building a new cab, I'll surely use that.

 

[Bedlam]

Say bedlam, I love that cab design by TheGhost! Someone posted a copy of his cab in the same thread, only the doors were different sizes. A narrow door over the veg section and a wide door covering the flower section. I think that's a great idea because you can work on the veg section without interrupting the dark period of the flowering plants. If I ever get around to building a new cab, I'll surely use that.

In terms of growboxes that actually look like a cabinet, his is the most appealing I've seen by far (including pre-made cabinets!) I copied the general set up of the cabinet, but it's going to be a little bigger with a 400 W lumatek and the door is definitely too large to keep as one door.

if i remember correctly, the specs are 24x45x48. I'm making the walls an inch thick, is this overkill? it's gonna be heavy as balls as is, I could bring it down to 1/2" thick but I already bought all the wood for 1 inch. and with the Euro hinges, would they work on a door that's 1/2" thick? I definitely want an inset door.

If you're interested I'll put some pics up as I progress.

 

[petemoss]

I just checked and TheGhost's cab is 52" high, 38" wide and 25" deep. I would have gone with 1/2 in plywood, but 1" thick should be OK and quieter, just a bit heavy to move around. What I really liked about that cab was his ventilation flow and separate fan and intake for cooling the light. Just a perfect lil cab!

 

[GeForceGrower]

Right on

Right on

Will take the advise and show what i have installed ,

Going stealth half wall... for hiding a closet!

Thanks... BUMP