I've read that Clonostachys rosea is a fungus that colonizes plant surfaces and devours Grey Mould. Sounds like a possible way to combat bud rot. Does anyone know anything about it? Where to buy it, whether it's been used on cannabis?
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Does anyone have experience using Gliocladium (Clonostachys) Rosea against boytritis?
- Thread starter therevverend
- Start date
ramse
Well-known member
Clonostachys rosea (ex Gliocladium catenulatum)
Prestop WP
https://sitem.herts.ac.uk/aeru/bpdb/search.htm
https://sitem.herts.ac.uk/aeru/bpdb/Reports/3137.htm
https://sitem.herts.ac.uk/aeru/bpdb/Reports/2470.htm
I'm using Bacillus subtilis and Bacillus amyloliquefaciens
Thanks that's what I was looking for. Boytritis is already a problem, attacking the stems of two plants and a branch on a 3rd. The weather was been too damp for this time of year, normally there's no moisture at all but we've had a marine air flow all summer.
Bacillus subtilis lives in soil, stops dampening off and wilts by preventing the growth of pythium and other bad root fungus. Another good one is Bacillus ceres. Encourages the growth of the beneficial microbes while discouraging the growth of the bad ones.
It may prove to be futile, these fungus may help to a lesser degree but when the weather turns nasty there's not a lot you can do. At least it's worth trying out new things.Even if they only work at 25% efficiency that's a huge gain against the losses that a wet year will bring.
Bacillus subtilis lives in soil, stops dampening off and wilts by preventing the growth of pythium and other bad root fungus. Another good one is Bacillus ceres. Encourages the growth of the beneficial microbes while discouraging the growth of the bad ones.
It may prove to be futile, these fungus may help to a lesser degree but when the weather turns nasty there's not a lot you can do. At least it's worth trying out new things.Even if they only work at 25% efficiency that's a huge gain against the losses that a wet year will bring.
troutman
Seed Whore
Great White may help you. 
Read my post here where I mention 4 organisms that attack botrytis.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=8340425&postcount=2
Read my post here where I mention 4 organisms that attack botrytis.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=8340425&postcount=2
A buddy gave me some Great White last year. Good stuff, had great root development and no wilting but didn't help the bud rot.
ramse
Well-known member
I was also reading about this fungus Ulocladium oudemansii, used specifically used as a biocontrol agent against Botrytis cinerea... looks interesting
there are several microorganisms:
Bacillus subtilis, Bacillus amyloliquefaciens, Aureobasidium pullulans, and Pythium oligandrum
from what I read their mechanism of action is more or less the same.
They compete with the pathogen for space and nutrient sources, use it as a food source and produce substances that can inhibit their growth.
last year for the first time I successfully used Bacillus subtilis (Serenade - Bayer). This year I also added the bacillus amyloliquefaciens (Amylo-X Biogard)
In addition to doing periodic spraying it is essential to monitor the climate, making targeted applications.
The optimal conditions for botrytis infection occur with humidity over 90 percent, which keeps the plants wet for at least 15 hours at an average temperature of at least 15 °C
Where I live the winemakers call it the rule of two 15 (15 h of rain and 15 C ° temperature)
there are several microorganisms:
Bacillus subtilis, Bacillus amyloliquefaciens, Aureobasidium pullulans, and Pythium oligandrum
from what I read their mechanism of action is more or less the same.
They compete with the pathogen for space and nutrient sources, use it as a food source and produce substances that can inhibit their growth.
last year for the first time I successfully used Bacillus subtilis (Serenade - Bayer). This year I also added the bacillus amyloliquefaciens (Amylo-X Biogard)
In addition to doing periodic spraying it is essential to monitor the climate, making targeted applications.
The optimal conditions for botrytis infection occur with humidity over 90 percent, which keeps the plants wet for at least 15 hours at an average temperature of at least 15 °C
Where I live the winemakers call it the rule of two 15 (15 h of rain and 15 C ° temperature)
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I think you've nailed it with the two 15 rule ramse. There's a top side temperature as well, above 74 degrees F (23 C) boytritis doesn't do well. That's a range of 59 degrees F to 74 F, that's 15 C to 23 C that's the sweet spot for grey mould.
The temperature and humidity range are almost the same for powdery mildew. A pest I didn't have to deal with until the last couple years. It's always been prevalent in my garden, infesting my maple trees, zucchinis, mustard greens, etc., while leaving my ganja alone. This changed two years ago and last year it caused some small losses. I don't want the trend to continue.
These various bacteria and fungi are said to control PM as well. I'm also applying chitosan. Some of the soil amendments I use contain the beneficial microorganisms.
My plants are not at the stage they're susceptible to bud rot yet but two have a terrible case of stem rot.
(WARNING: The following image contains material that may shock and disturb some viewers.)
One of my Burkle 2.0, Afghan hashplant type. The 88HPG13 next door has a similar infection though not quite as severe. Neither plants are showing visible signs of distress which means the stems are not completely girdled. The high temperatures have been in the low 70s F, around 22-23 C along with humid marine air. Mist that burns off between 10 AM and 1 PM. All it takes for this condition to develop. The last couple days have been up to 80F and the infestation has stopped spreading. Another plant on the other side of the garden got a small infection on a minor branch. It's not a hashplant, much more of a hybrid.
I'm keeping notes on how the rest of the year goes. I'll make note of what treatment I give and whether it's effective. More 22 degree C days are in the forecast along with morning mist off the Pacific Ocean so I'll be keeping a close watch.
The temperature and humidity range are almost the same for powdery mildew. A pest I didn't have to deal with until the last couple years. It's always been prevalent in my garden, infesting my maple trees, zucchinis, mustard greens, etc., while leaving my ganja alone. This changed two years ago and last year it caused some small losses. I don't want the trend to continue.
These various bacteria and fungi are said to control PM as well. I'm also applying chitosan. Some of the soil amendments I use contain the beneficial microorganisms.
My plants are not at the stage they're susceptible to bud rot yet but two have a terrible case of stem rot.
(WARNING: The following image contains material that may shock and disturb some viewers.)
One of my Burkle 2.0, Afghan hashplant type. The 88HPG13 next door has a similar infection though not quite as severe. Neither plants are showing visible signs of distress which means the stems are not completely girdled. The high temperatures have been in the low 70s F, around 22-23 C along with humid marine air. Mist that burns off between 10 AM and 1 PM. All it takes for this condition to develop. The last couple days have been up to 80F and the infestation has stopped spreading. Another plant on the other side of the garden got a small infection on a minor branch. It's not a hashplant, much more of a hybrid.
I'm keeping notes on how the rest of the year goes. I'll make note of what treatment I give and whether it's effective. More 22 degree C days are in the forecast along with morning mist off the Pacific Ocean so I'll be keeping a close watch.
A reduction in chitin may help. You're generating a lot of short chain sugars. That should be cut at week 4-5. Let potassium do the rest.
Even if you control climate, botrytis can exist in a dormant state and present again when they have the option. High pH foliar can stop it at the source but once it's inside the bud, I differ to Ramse. Get an anti microbial source inside before the flower over grows portions you can't spray any more.
Even if you control climate, botrytis can exist in a dormant state and present again when they have the option. High pH foliar can stop it at the source but once it's inside the bud, I differ to Ramse. Get an anti microbial source inside before the flower over grows portions you can't spray any more.
