Do these flowers look right?

[GeraldsFinest]

Hey guys,

Im growing a few different strains and am 6 weeks into flower. Ive noticed these papaya strains are a lot darker than the rest and the leaves have a rough feel to them and are starting to taco up. Ive tried lowering EC, raising EC, lowering fan speeds, increasing/decreasing humidity and just can't seem to shake these curling leaves. Im in Canna coco with canna nutes. Im feeding 3 times per lights on cycle @1.2 EC ph 5.9 going in. This is what I'm feeding per gallon everyday. 5ml A+B, 5ml Cannazyme, 6ml boost, 6ml Pk 13/14. Stopped calmag before flower.
My lights are 1000 DE dimmed to 750 about 2.5-3 feet from canopy. Room temps are 74-78 lights on, 68-72 lights off. RH is 40 lights on, 45-50 lights off. A lot of the tips are yellow, and some edges are crispy and curling up. I know I've posted about this before but everything I try just doesn't work. Im starting to think its my ratios of nutrients being off. Any advice would be great. Thanks

 

[TanzanianMagic]

Hey guys,

Im growing a few different strains and am 6 weeks into flower. Ive noticed these papaya strains are a lot darker than the rest and the leaves have a rough feel to them and are starting to taco up. Ive tried lowering EC, raising EC, lowering fan speeds, increasing/decreasing humidity and just can't seem to shake these curling leaves. Im in Canna coco with canna nutes. Im feeding 3 times per lights on cycle @1.2 EC ph 5.9 going in. This is what I'm feeding per gallon everyday. 5ml A+B, 5ml Cannazyme, 6ml boost, 6ml Pk 13/14. Stopped calmag before flower.
My lights are 1000 DE dimmed to 750 about 2.5-3 feet from canopy. Room temps are 74-78 lights on, 68-72 lights off. RH is 40 lights on, 45-50 lights off. A lot of the tips are yellow, and some edges are crispy and curling up. I know I've posted about this before but everything I try just doesn't work. Im starting to think its my ratios of nutrients being off. Any advice would be great. Thanks

1. "Ive noticed these papaya strains are a lot darker than the rest and the leaves have a rough feel to them and are starting to taco up."

2. "Stopped calmag before flower."

They need magnesium. Add 0.1 EC of Epsom Salt. Maybe 0.2 EC if you use filtered water.

Plants already need more magnesium when they get into flower. And flowering itself is basically a massive expansion of the root system, which is why they get extra P in flowering. In hydro, that just happens by the roots growing into water in the container. In soil, you'll have to add a couple of inches of soil to the top of the plant - weed can sprout roots from it's stem, which is what the rough feeling dots at the base of the plants' stem are - pre-roots.

Darkening of the leaves, tacoing of leaves and having gone into flower all point to the direction of the plants needing more a little more magnesium than they're getting.

 

[GeraldsFinest]

Hey thanks a lot. I was also thinking it possibly was magnesium but all the research I’ve done just looks completely different to what I have. But hey I gave it a shot this morning. Added 4 teaspoons to 30 gallons (60ppm) we’ll see how she responds . Thanks again I’ll post here to let you know how it works.

 

[TanzanianMagic]

Just to add - in case that this is a Mg lockout:

"Many of the deficiencies that we can observe during the flowering period are given due to an excess with the bloom fertiliser. Most fertilisers for this phase contain high amounts of phosphorus and potassium: it should be said that potassium and calcium are two nutrients that can cause magnesium lock-out when added in excess.

Usually, this lock-out occurs during the first weeks of flowering – when the plant is creating buds – approximately during the third-sixth week of flowering, depending on whether it’s an Indica or Sativa strain. During these weeks, and if we use too much fertilizer, we’ll cause an excess of potassium (K) that will block the absorption of magnesium (Mg). To solve this nutrient imbalance, flush the roots to lower the nutrient excess in the substrate so that the plant can absorb Mg again."

https://www.alchimiaweb.com/blogen/deficiency-excess-magnesium-cannabis/

The way to know if there is a nutrient buildup in the rootzone is the flush with clean water and measure the first drops. Maybe you should reduce the amount of P/K 13/14 a little too, maybe 4 ml instead of 6 ml.

"Im feeding 3 times"

That may be too often too. When you let coco get a little drier, it also stimulates root growth, which is what flowering really is - more roots means more yield and more and faster flowering.

You should try feeding once every 2 days, and see what happens. How long does it take for the plants to wilt? Just shy of that may be a more natural feeding cycle. And don't believe anyone who tells you that you have to keep coco watered all the time. You can get it get a little dry. Especially if you're using lower nutrient concentrations.

 

[GeraldsFinest]

Ok and yes I check runoff quite frequently my input is about 600ppm and runoff is about 680ppm 700. I’ve flushed twice to get my medium back in line and the only way I can seem to keep it in line is by watering 3x a day. I’m in five gallon fabric pots after a day they’re all brown and dry on top

 

[TanzanianMagic]

Ok and yes I check runoff quite frequently my input is about 600ppm and runoff is about 680ppm 700. I’ve flushed twice to get my medium back in line and the only way I can seem to keep it in line is by watering 3x a day.

I think the solution is clear - feed less, and less frequently.

https://manicbotanix.com/ec-to-ppm-conversion-chart-2/

On the EC to Hanna PPM conversion table, 600 to 700 PPM is 1.2 to 1.4 EC.

You should try 0.4 EC or 200 ppm of high P/K late flowering food (Canna PK 13/14, Atami B'Cuzz 0-20-30, etc.) and 0.1 EC or 50 ppm of epsom salt. And that's on top of whatever the EC of the tapwater is. Mine (to use a random example) is 0.6 EC or 300 ppm. So the final ppm of the nutrient solution would be 300 + 200 +50 = 550 ppm or 1.1 EC.

And feed that once every other day or even once every 2 days.

Think of it as a very slow flush, but one that also puts in the right nutrients. Mg for the leaves, P for the roots and K for the stem and branches. Also, as the medium dries as it should, the nutrient concentration increases so don't worry about underfeeding.

Also in coco, you should aim for a steady 6.0 pH throughout the grow, and you'll be fine.