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DIY cheap ebb & flow setup?

_Dude

Member
I have two 1k HPS lights and I want to set up a 4x8 table eventually. For now I only plan to use 4x4 of it under 1k.

I want to do as much as I can with stuff I have laying around.

With that in mind, my design is to use a 4x8 sheet of plywood, with a 4x8 sheet of tileboard (showerboard) glued on top, with 2x6s or 2x4s screwed to the plywood for the sides of the tub, and the seams caulked with sealant (suggestions welcome). I'll be using my seven 5-gallon bucket recirc DWC system as reservoir and table stand.

For the plumbing, I'm going to use Uniseals. The fill/drain will be a Uniseal through the table, with a short piece of 1" PVC through it, and a length of contractor garden hose through that to a pond pump in a bucket below. The overflow will be a simple length of 1" PVC through a uniseal, emptying above another bucket.

I still haven't figured out how to seal the board sides against water. Suggestions?

I also haven't decided on how many plants I want, or what size pots. Is 16 a good number for 4'x4', or is that too few? I have about 16 big netpots (the kind that sit like lids on 5 gallon buckets), so more than 16 plants means I'd have to make more pots (I'm thinking milk jugs or something).

Medium is hydroton (in the pots, I don't plan to fill the tub with anything. Do I need to worry about a cover against algae in the tub?

What do you think? Too out there? Suggestions?

The alternative is to use multiple plastic tubs and plumb a common drain/fill underneath with PVC and uniseal. That's doable, but presents me with two problems. First I'd have to find cheap dollar store tubs that are an excellent fit for a 4x8 table (which relies on blind luck). Second I'd have to find a part to connect 1" PVC to my pump because I'd rather not use garden hose if I split the fill/drain between multiple tubs.
 
B

Blunted22

Hey man i can try to help you out alittle. Search these forums for official DIY thread.

Theres a couple ebb and flo setups that you might find useful. If not i wouldnt fill the boards with water because it wont work itll get yet and drip and do what ever. However you can use that as a start and put something down like a pool liner that wont leak. A good silicone caulk or aquarium sealant might be better though. i myslef would build a base light that and buy these little buckets that (you can find them in the DIY thread somewhere) you can buy at lowes for like 11 dollars drill out the holes and buy the fittings from the hydro shop. That all i know man hope it helped.
 

_Dude

Member
I went with the wood table. Cut a 4'x4' piece of 3/4" plywood and screwed 2x6s on top for the walls. Got a 4'x8' piece of tile board but haven't cut it or glued it on yet.

I'm thinking of going SCROG because it will allow me to fix the light in one position, making my ventilation (air cooled hood) system much easier to design, and more efficient - since I'll be able to use galvanized duct instead of flexible duct.

If I do a SCROG setup, I'll make a frame out of 1/2" PVC and a piece of chickenwire or whatever (2" holes).

How tall should I plan for the plants to be - how far from the plywood should I make the screen?

I have a 1000w HPS - how far should the bulb be from the screen for best light coverage?
 
Y

yamaha_1fan

go to the depot and buy some pond liner. It will save you alot of trouble
 

_Dude

Member
I thought about pond liner, but the trouble there is sealing the drains. With tile board it's rigid so I can silicone it and rest assured of a solid seal. With liner or tarp I could tear the seal and not know it, only to check my grow and find an inch of water on the floor.

Do you have a way around that?
 
G

Guest

they do make alarms that when put on the floor will go off if water contacts them, unfortunately i forget the name, hopefully someone can help you out with it
 
G

Guest

they might be able to be programmed to a computer to send you an email or text message, but that might be complete BS as well. i saw those things a few months ago but i didnt have a need so i payed little attention to them.
 

_Dude

Member
I wish there was something I could paint on to seal the wood, but all the resin crap I've looked at is stupidly expensive.
 

_Dude

Member
rkrone said:
they might be able to be programmed to a computer to send you an email or text message, but that might be complete BS as well. i saw those things a few months ago but i didnt have a need so i payed little attention to them.
Didn't see your reply earlier for some reason. I was just kidding around about the call thing.
 

EZB581

Member
_Dude said:
I wish there was something I could paint on to seal the wood, but all the resin crap I've looked at is stupidly expensive.
Have You looked into a 2 part epoxy paint? Check out the sherwin williams or a pool supply store. Once it cures it makes a strong water proff seal.
 

meduser180056

Active member
I built my own tables out of plywood and used pond liner to cover them. I cut drain holes and put a lil drain pipe sealed it up with waterproof epoxy I found in the plumbing section. It made a good seal no leaks or whatever the pond liner sealed fine.
 
B

Blunted22

meduser180056 said:
I built my own tables out of plywood and used pond liner to cover them. I cut drain holes and put a lil drain pipe sealed it up with waterproof epoxy I found in the plumbing section. It made a good seal no leaks or whatever the pond liner sealed fine.


Exactly what i was talkign about thanks meduser
 

_Dude

Member
Still need suggestions on how many plants I should put in this space, in what size pots (don't answer this question with a question (like "depends on how big you want your plants dude"), because the answer will be "whatever it needs to be for optimal yield and minimum veg time").

Btw, I'm going SOG, not SCROG.
 
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_Dude

Member
Buuump.

I've searched all over, I can't find any guides on pot size vs. area vs. plant size vs. veg time.

I need to know how long I should veg 16 plants (1 per square foot) to make a good 4x4 canopy, and what size pots I'll need (nursury pots filled with hydroton - not net pots), in a 6" deep tray (which I'll be able to flood to 5" deep max - preferably only as deep as 4").
 
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