disabling attached speed controller on inline fan?

[peekpeek]

is there any way to disable or remove these cheap variable controllers that come included with these fans? it's cheap and doesn't seem to lower the speeds accurately. i have a speedster i have laying around that i would like to use instead of the built in junk controller. i opened the back of the controller and there was three wires, green, black and white. any help would be appreciated.

this is the fan

 

[peekpeek]

basically i want to cancel or disable the include one and let the speedster control it

 

[FireIn.TheSky]

Remove the cord and put a new cord on it.

Or clip the cord at the fan controller and put on a replacement cord cap you can buy at the home dumpo for 10$. This option would leave you with a short cord.

There is no way you can make that stop working safely without removing it.

 

[Jhhnn]

Remove the cord and put a new cord on it.

Or clip the cord at the fan controller and put on a replacement cord cap you can buy at the home dumpo for 10$. This option would leave you with a short cord.

There is no way you can make that stop working safely without removing it.

Agreed. That looks like the usual shaded pole AC motor. Some of the new fans, like the hyper fan, use a whole different kind of speed control & brushless DC motors. I'd opt for the new cord, probably cheaper than $10.

 

[peekpeek]

Remove the cord and put a new cord on it.

Or clip the cord at the fan controller and put on a replacement cord cap you can buy at the home dumpo for 10$. This option would leave you with a short cord.

There is no way you can make that stop working safely without removing it.

are these the replacement cord caps? i think id rather go this option if its more simple, im no electrician, but if replacing the whole cord means opening up the box compartment and rewire a new one, ill just go cord cap instead, too much hassel unmounting fan and im in week 3 flower soon.

 

[peekpeek]

are these the replacement cord caps? i think id rather go this option if its more simple, im no electrician, but if replacing the whole cord means opening up the box compartment and rewire a new one, ill just go cord cap instead, too much hassel unmounting fan and im in week 3 flower soon.

sorry forgot to put link

https://www.lowes.com/pl/Electrical-plugs-connectors-Cable-wire-connectors-Electrical/4294722553

 

[EastCoast710]

cant u just put it to all the way up.. and plug that into the other speed controller?


also.. some fans don't take kindly to turning them up and down..

1 of my 6 inchers doesn't like any speed controller..

 

[Jhhnn]

are these the replacement cord caps? i think id rather go this option if its more simple, im no electrician, but if replacing the whole cord means opening up the box compartment and rewire a new one, ill just go cord cap instead, too much hassel unmounting fan and im in week 3 flower soon.

That being the case, these are high quality & easy to use-

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hubbell-15-Amp-125-Volt-Yellow-3-Wire-Plug/3739251

Cords don't always follow the black=hot white=neutral convention. pop open the speed control module to see what you have. Don't cut anything until you understand it.

 

[Wendull C.]

Open the rheostat box, junction green to green, white to white, and black to black. That will bypass the rheostat (speed control).

 

[peekpeek]

That being the case, these are high quality & easy to use-

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hubbell-15-Amp-125-Volt-Yellow-3-Wire-Plug/3739251

Cords don't always follow the black=hot white=neutral convention. pop open the speed control module to see what you have. Don't cut anything until you understand it.

thanks! i opened it earlier and it has the standard black, white, green wires. gonna go out and buy it now that i know which one and how to (just saw a youtube tut). seems very straight forward and easy. its something i gotta do, shortended cord or not, because with this damn thing attached i can't use any of my controllers, my titan mercury 4, etc...

just a heads up to people in the future if getting one of these fans, i'd steer clear just based on the crappy controllers.

 

[FireIn.TheSky]

Open the rheostat box, junction green to green, white to white, and black to black. That will bypass the rheostat (speed control).

I wouldn't do it that way.

And yes peek peek those are the cord caps I was talking about.

They're easy, white to silver screw, black to the gold screw and green to green.

 

[Jhhnn]

I wouldn't do it that way.

And yes peek peek those are the cord caps I was talking about.

They're easy, white to silver screw, black to the gold screw and green to green.

Yep. Piece o' cake.

 

[Wendull C.]

I wouldn't do it that way.

And yes peek peek those are the cord caps I was talking about.

They're easy, white to silver screw, black to the gold screw and green to green.

Why not? It is in its own junction box and is no different than how it is hooked up now?

The rheostat is a simple single pole switch. The grounds and neutral are joined and the rheostat gives power that it can limit from hot to hot. All you are doing is removing the switch and completing the circuit.

 

[Wendull C.]

That way you don't end up with half a cord or a need to wire a new pig tail.

 

[FireIn.TheSky]

Why not? It is in its own junction box and is no different than how it is hooked up now?

The rheostat is a simple single pole switch. The grounds and neutral are joined and the rheostat gives power that it can limit from hot to hot. All you are doing is removing the switch and completing the circuit.

Not everybody is capable of making proper electrical splices.

Poor splices lead to heat or arcing, both of those lead to fire

Inside that tiny box I doubt there would be enough room to adequately splice those wires

 

[Wendull C.]

It is a lot easier to hook up three wire nuts than strip stranded wire 14 gage or smaller and wrap it around a screw.

OP if you do it the cord cap way just make sure to wrap the stranded wire clock wise or it will fray and cause a bad connection.

 

[wildgrow]

You could get male and female ends. 1 for the cord coming out of the fan and the other for the remaining cord. Instant extension cord.

 

[Jhhnn]

Not everybody is capable of making proper electrical splices.

Poor splices lead to heat or arcing, both of those lead to fire

Inside that tiny box I doubt there would be enough room to adequately splice those wires

I'm sure Wendull's alternative would work OK if properly done. Taking the guts out of the controller would probably leave lots of room if a person really, really needed the full cord length.

The Hubbell cord caps are nice because they have clamps under the screws so no wire wrapping is required. They have very good features overall & are solid hardware.

 

[FireIn.TheSky]

It would work fine. Me personally I'm not a fan of putting wire nuts in something like that. A butt splice would work fine but most people don't own a pair of crimpers.

Also I would never recommend spicing an extension cord so why would I suggest splicing that cord.

Faulty extension cords are one of top fire starters.

 

[wildgrow]

It would work fine. Me personally I'm not a fan of putting wire nuts in something like that. A butt splice would work fine but most people don't own a pair of crimpers.

Also I would never recommend spicing an extension cord so why would I suggest splicing that cord.

Faulty extension cords are one of top fire starters.

No splicing dude. Just turning the chopped off piece into an extension cord for the fan it came from.
If someone can wire a https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hubbell-15-Amp-125-Volt-Yellow-3-Wire/3823961 , they can wire a https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hubbell-15-Amp-125-Volt-Yellow-3-Wire/3739231 .