Curing in jars: to burp, or not to burp?

[Team Microbe]

Hey all, I recently read an interesting article by Kyle Kushman that shares an interesting method of curing. He doesn't burp at all, compared to the common "burping" art we normally do come time to jar our flowers up. Check it out:

http://medicalmarijuana.com/kyle-kushman/curing-marijuana


Long story short - Kyle states that leaving the buds in the jars un-burped will let aerobic bacteria break down the chlorophyll; thus creating a perfect cure (after 2 weeks +). He then mentions that burping is counter-productive to curing:


"The presence of air, light, and water are all that’s necessary for these bacteria to spring to life. Leaving just enough water and air to allow the bacteria to feed on the chlorophyll, but not enough to proliferate throughout the jar. When they run out of air, they die. So opening the jar is counterproductive to curing. Although it is necessary to pinpoint whether or not you got it right."




What do you guys think? Think he's on point here? How do YOU cure?

 

[gloryoskie]

In really big piles out back.

 

[Pinball Wizard]

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=156237

 

[rives]

I don't see how you can get the moisture content down to the level that you want without removing the lid and doing some air exchange unless you are using Boveda packs. I use Simon's method that Pinball Wizard linked above, and you can easily watch the humidity in the jar rise over time as the moisture works it's way out of the buds. The buds can go into the jar pretty crispy, and within a couple of days the humidity will be high enough that I would bet that mold would start (in addition to being too wet to burn) if there was no air exchange.

 

[Mate Dave]

I hand manicure fresh limbs off the plant, I hang individual branches cut into workable sections in a ventilated tent in the dark for 10 days.

I hang the limbs on multiple clothes airers - http://www.wilko.com/indoor+outdoor-airers/wilko-clothes-airer-3-fold-6m/invt/1290840

After 10 days I go in the tent with food tubs - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-LTR-FOO...ome_Cookware_Food_Storage&hash=item3380d52c88

I snip all the buds off the stems into the tubs, I don't fill more that 2/3 of a tub as you will need room to turn the buds.

1 Tops
2 Mids
3 (NFS - Not For Sale)

I generally leave the buds in the open tubs for another 4 days in the tent on the floor, turning them every 6 hours or so.
To do this I put a lid on the tub and roll the buds about a bit.

After a few days of this process of turning you can do a hygrometer test but I just seal the tubs and check them as regularly as I skin up to prevent any acrid smells.

You will notice over the next week the difference in the product being smoked.

At this point you can seal it up for ages. Label the batch and freeze for long term storage.

After a 3 month cure in the tubs the first time you open some they might have a funny acrid smell but this is highly unlikely.

Air the buds for a few hours before you smoke them regardless of how long they were sealed as this will noticeably improve the cannabis flavour.

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Weed tubs need to be left sealed once removed from the freezer - (Do not shake the tub) - allow condensate to evaporate before the tubs are opened, this usually takes around 1 hour. [/FONT]

 

[RonSmooth]

Hey all, I recently read an interesting article by Kyle Kushman that shares an interesting method of curing. He doesn't burp at all, compared to the common "burping" art we normally do come time to jar our flowers up. Check it out:

http://medicalmarijuana.com/kyle-kushman/curing-marijuana


Long story short - Kyle states that leaving the buds in the jars un-burped will let aerobic bacteria break down the chlorophyll; thus creating a perfect cure (after 2 weeks +). He then mentions that burping is counter-productive to curing:


"The presence of air, light, and water are all that’s necessary for these bacteria to spring to life. Leaving just enough water and air to allow the bacteria to feed on the chlorophyll, but not enough to proliferate throughout the jar. When they run out of air, they die. So opening the jar is counterproductive to curing. Although it is necessary to pinpoint whether or not you got it right."




What do you guys think? Think he's on point here? How do YOU cure?

I don't see where he mentions anerobic bacteria. Seems to be talking about the opposite to me.

He talks about leaving enough air(oxygen) in the jar to allow bacteria to feed on chlorophyll. When the oxygen is consumed, the bacteria die. He believes that opening the jar introduces more oxygen which continues to feed bacteria. He doesnt want the bacteria to live once they have done their thing. I guess.

I dont quite understand how he times the bacteria life cycle, chlorophyll eating thing. He assumes that when the bacteria run out of oxygen, they have eaten all the chlorophyll.

Honestly, I didnt even know bacteria were responsible for "eating" chlorophyll. Maybe I misunderstood the article.

AS I understand it, curing is drying. Drying is curing. Control the rate at which the drying occurs and you will be fine.

 

[bigAl25]

If burping is not done I have had buds mold. Ask my son who was supposed to burp daily while we were on vacation. He did not and ruined a whole mason jar of WWXBB. I was pissed, but these kids now a days are just not as attentive to detail as their parents are.

 

[Team Microbe]

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=156237

THANK you! best article ive read when it comes to curing. you the man.

 

[Greenlife1]

I dont burp either. I use 1/2 gallon mason jars. fill about 2/3 full. As long as its dry enough you shouldn't have to burp. i have been doing it this way for years an turns out perfect.
I would rather have it a little to dry, an have to toss a leaf into the jar to re-hydrate a little, than it molding. usually that dosent happen, but sometimes i cant keep up lol.

 

[Jhhnn]

THANK you! best article ive read when it comes to curing. you the man.

Excellent method. From the linked Kushman article, he does much the same thing, just in a less controlled more fly-by-the-seat-of-your-pants way. He admits that sometimes it doesn't work as well as he'd like.

All the attributes as to what's actually happening in the jar chemistry-wise & microbe-wise are speculative, really, people just trying to find a way that might explain how the weed changes in the process. Clearly, life forces are still at work the whole time, whether that's microbes or just life chemistry winding down.

I just accept it on the magic principle. I don't need to understand it, I just need to know how to do it, how to make it work, how to cast the spell. Simon quantifies that, gives me a recipe, makes it easier to get solid results.

Last harvest, we were enduring a bout of very hot & humid weather in late August, early September. Even the crawl space was hot. Our evaporative cooler just couldn't handle it. Powdery mildew had annihilated much of our outdoor veggie patch, something that we'd never seen in 20 years here. Being inexperienced, the prospect of moldy buds kinda freaked me out, so I sped up drying with some fan action, reduced it to ~7 days. This time, I intend to stretch it out in a nice cold dry crawl space, see if the results are even better.

 

[The OrigF/clred]

I hand manicure fresh limbs off the plant, I hang individual branches cut into workable sections in a ventilated tent in the dark for 10 days.

I hang the limbs on multiple clothes airers - http://www.wilko.com/indoor+outdoor-airers/wilko-clothes-airer-3-fold-6m/invt/1290840

After 10 days I go in the tent with food tubs - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-LTR-FOO...ome_Cookware_Food_Storage&hash=item3380d52c88

I snip all the buds off the stems into the tubs, I don't fill more that 2/3 of a tub as you will need room to turn the buds.

1 Tops
2 Mids
3 (NFS - Not For Sale)

I generally leave the buds in the open tubs for another 4 days in the tent on the floor, turning them every 6 hours or so.
To do this I put a lid on the tub and roll the buds about a bit.

After a few days of this process of turning you can do a hygrometer test but I just seal the tubs and check them as regularly as I skin up to prevent any acrid smells.

You will notice over the next week the difference in the product being smoked.

At this point you can seal it up for ages. Label the batch and freeze for long term storage.

After a 3 month cure in the tubs the first time you open some they might have a funny acrid smell but this is highly unlikely.

Air the buds for a few hours before you smoke them regardless of how long they were sealed as this will noticeably improve the cannabis flavour.

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Weed tubs need to be left sealed once removed from the freezer - (Do not shake the tub) - allow condensate to evaporate before the tubs are opened, this usually takes around 1 hour. [/FONT]

mate dave - "....and freeze for long term storag." So you're aware, items stored in plastic tubs, bags etc in the refrig or freezer dry out over time as the plastic allows some moisture to migrate thru or out. That's why the higher quality potato chip bags have a shiny metalized or foil layer on the inside of the bags - it better seals the plastic, keeping moisture out.

i learned this the hardway with some expensive tobaccos.

just as an FYI

 

[The OrigF/clred]

I don't see where he mentions anerobic bacteria. Seems to be talking about the opposite to me.

He talks about leaving enough air(oxygen) in the jar to allow bacteria to feed on chlorophyll. When the oxygen is consumed, the bacteria die. He believes that opening the jar introduces more oxygen which continues to feed bacteria. He doesnt want the bacteria to live once they have done their thing. I guess.

I dont quite understand how he times the bacteria life cycle, chlorophyll eating thing. He assumes that when the bacteria run out of oxygen, they have eaten all the chlorophyll.

Honestly, I didnt even know bacteria were responsible for "eating" chlorophyll. Maybe I misunderstood the article.

AS I understand it, curing is drying. Drying is curing. Control the rate at which the drying occurs and you will be fine.

Interesting how many curing methods or approaches i've seen here on ICMag. I was active in a few tobacco forums, and there are vastly opposing schools of thought in the tobacco world as to how / why to cure.

I only mention as curing of mj or tobacco shares the same primarily goals, to enhance flavor/taste & smoothness as well as properly preserving the tobacco or mj.

But here's where the approaches vastly differ:

1) the main school sees basically the same method employed i see described here, in mason jars, 3/4s full to allow some oxygen in the jar, after the tobacco has hit the "sweet" humidity spot of 65-75% RH, leaving the jar shut or sealed tight for 3 months to 5 years (depending on the tobacco) - basically it's described that the bacteria beneficial to the process are aerobic.

2) the 2nd school, calls for the exact same process as above (mason jars, length of time curing etc) with one exception - jars are vacuum sealed to remove all oxygen possible, indicating the bacteria necessary are anerobic (not sure i spelled that correctly).

Both of those two approaches are defended or supported by tobacconists that would be the contemporaries of well respected breeders in the mj community, i mean individuals that might even have a little more background in their respective field of tobacco). Both support their positions with some technical details as a foundation for their positions (i'm not a botanist, chemist and haven't got a smidgeon of experience in those fields), but it always reads, on both sides of the argument, as well founded.

My point is, i came away with the conclusion that there are a multitude of methods to curing tobacco, and i suspect the same is true of mj - it's whatever works for that user.

As to the OP's original question, without having cured any mj but having played with a lot of tobacco, for ease of smoking and tobacco preservation, you don't want the tobacco or mj too dry or too wet.

By ease of smoking, i mean: too dry and it will smoke harsh, too wet and it will smoke much much smoother but go out easily.

By tobacco preservation, if stored too wet (80% RH or above, at temps, iirc, above 75F, mold becomes a great likelihood. Tobacco users shoot for 65-75% RH, and generally want to store it in a 55-60F temp environment.

The "burping" is also done in the tobacco community, and it's basic purpose is to walk the tobacco's or mj's humidity down in a slow controlled process. Naturaly the outside edges of the bud are going to dry faster and dryer than the core portion will, and as obvious, buds at the top of the jar will dry first, before the buds at the bottom - so when you open the jar, you're allowing moist air in the jar to exchange for dryer air, then in a few minutes you re-seal the jar. Moisture level in the buds drains out in a slower and controlled process where the extremities of the subject material (or the buds up top) don't dry out excessively more than the core.

If you're interested, hygrometers can be had on Amazon for @$7 that work pretty well - you could place one in one jar (and assume that is representative of other jars) if you wanted to get intense into curing your mj. I wasn't that interested in monitoring or controlling the RH (relative humidity) till i found out how much more pleasant my tobacco smoked when it was in the 70-75% RH range - made so much a difference, i now stage my tobaccos thru two tubs to bring the rh into that range before using it to stuff cigarettes.

We use mason jars in tobacco community for the same reason they use it here in mj, glass does not allow moisture to migrate in or out.

And for those inclined to using rubbermaid or other plastic tubs as a substitute - to give you an idea of how much they actually leak (around the lid), fill your sink with water, and submerge an empty tub, holding under water for a minute or two with the lightest pressure possible - out of 5 i tested for myself, 1 came out water tight, the other 4 ranged from a few drops of water inside to a teaspoon.

there's probably a lot in the tobacco community that would serve the mj community, in terms of storage / curing etc - after all, tobacconists have been practicing their art since the days of the english establishing the colony at Jamestown, Va in the US but i think the part that will be the most interesting to the mj community, are the ingredients & flavorings tobacconists learned to use in the cure process. A lot of tobaccos's taste sweetens with salt - folks will mix maybe a 1/4 teaspon of salt in 8-10 ounces of distilled water, lay the tobacco out on a tray, mist it with the salty solution, allow to dry and then put it in the curing jars. Lemon & orange oils are used in a similiar manner, but as they aren't water soluble they're diluted in vodka or gin.

Propylene Glycol (PG) is used to help tobacco to keep it's moisture - it somehow slows or retards the migration of water into or out of tobacco (it's also used in a lot of foods, bread, twinkies, you name it it's that commonly used). It is a pretty safe ingredient to add. Tasteless for most, but some dedicated tobacco afficianados claim they can taste the "sweetness" it impacts the tobacco. Molasses, different honeys, peach extract, chocolate etc you name it, are used.

I was actually surprised, when i first started visiting the mj forums after a 30+ year hiatus, at how much the MJ world had matured, with a huge multitude of strains, hybrids etc, and so little attention had been given to the curing process.

As far as flavorings - one i'll mention that would be hard to appreciate without having tasted it - i buy one tobacco from a tobacconist in the northeast, that is chocolate/cream flavored that i had actually bought as a joke for a friend. I tried it when it came in and it became my and my wife's "desert" smoke for after dinner. The bag aroma is so decadent, you almost feel you need to call Jenny Craig and arrange a subscription to their diet program just from smelling it - imagine the most delicious & decadently rich dark semi-sweet chocolate, still hot in the pot or pan. The taste is the part that would be hard to convey - it actually smokes (and tastes) as delicious as it smells.

Suspect some have already experimented with flavorings same as some (i'm sure) have managed, on strains they've dialed in, to enhance the leaf/bud color before harvest.

anyway, rant switch off

 

[Jbuzz]

i'd say try an experiment with your next harvest. get a small mason jar, and attempt kushman's method with a few buds you won't miss if things go awry.
i do agree with him about taking a long time to get the moisture out of the buds though. i can taste the difference between just drying/drying and a week cure(daily burping)/drying and a month cure (daily burping for the first few days, followed by every several days exchanging air.)

 

[Jhhnn]

Interesting how many curing methods or approaches i've seen here on ICMag. I was active in a few tobacco forums, and there are vastly opposing schools of thought in the tobacco world as to how / why to cure.

I only mention as curing of mj or tobacco shares the same primarily goals, to enhance flavor/taste & smoothness as well as properly preserving the tobacco or mj.

But here's where the approaches vastly differ:

1) the main school sees basically the same method employed i see described here, in mason jars, 3/4s full to allow some oxygen in the jar, after the tobacco has hit the "sweet" humidity spot of 65-75% RH, leaving the jar shut or sealed tight for 3 months to 5 years (depending on the tobacco) - basically it's described that the bacteria beneficial to the process are aerobic.

2) the 2nd school, calls for the exact same process as above (mason jars, length of time curing etc) with one exception - jars are vacuum sealed to remove all oxygen possible, indicating the bacteria necessary are anerobic (not sure i spelled that correctly).

Both of those two approaches are defended or supported by tobacconists that would be the contemporaries of well respected breeders in the mj community, i mean individuals that might even have a little more background in their respective field of tobacco). Both support their positions with some technical details as a foundation for their positions (i'm not a botanist, chemist and haven't got a smidgeon of experience in those fields), but it always reads, on both sides of the argument, as well founded.

My point is, i came away with the conclusion that there are a multitude of methods to curing tobacco, and i suspect the same is true of mj - it's whatever works for that user.

As to the OP's original question, without having cured any mj but having played with a lot of tobacco, for ease of smoking and tobacco preservation, you don't want the tobacco or mj too dry or too wet.

By ease of smoking, i mean: too dry and it will smoke harsh, too wet and it will smoke much much smoother but go out easily.

By tobacco preservation, if stored too wet (80% RH or above, at temps, iirc, above 75F, mold becomes a great likelihood. Tobacco users shoot for 65-75% RH, and generally want to store it in a 55-60F temp environment.

The "burping" is also done in the tobacco community, and it's basic purpose is to walk the tobacco's or mj's humidity to walk down in a slow controlled process. Naturaly the outside edges of the bud are going to dry faster and dryer than the core portion will, so when you open the jar, you're allowing moist air in the jar to exchange for dryer air, then in a few minutes you re-seal the jar. Moisture level in the buds drains out in a slower and controlled process where the extremities of the subject material don't dry out excessively more than the core.

If you're interested, hygrometers can be had on Amazon for @$7 that work pretty well - you could place one in one jar (and assume that is representative of other jars) if you wanted to get intense into curing your mj. I wasn't that interested till i found out how much more pleasant my tobacco smoked when it was in the 70-75% RH range - made so much a difference, i not stage my tobaccos thru two tubs to bring the rh into that range before using it to stuff cigarettes.

We use mason jars in tobacco community for the same reason they use it here in mj, glass does not allow moisture to migrate in or out.

And for those inclined to using rubbermaid or other plastic tubs as a substitute - to give you an idea of how much they actually leak (around the lid), fill your sink with water, and submerge an empty tub, holding under water for a minute or two with the lightest pressure possible - out of 5 i tested for myself, 1 came out water tight, the other 4 ranged from a few drops of water inside to a teaspoon.

there's probably a lot in the tobacco community that would serve the mj community, in terms of storage / curing etc - after all, tobacconists have been practicing their art since the days of the english establishing the colony at Jamestown, Va in the US but i think the part that will be the most interesting to the mj community, are the ingredients & flavorings tobacconists learned to use in the cure process. A lot of tobaccos's taste sweetens with salt - folks will mix maybe a 1/4 teaspon of salt in 8-10 ounces of distilled water, lay the tobacco out on a tray, mist it with the salty solution, allow to dry and then put it in the curing jars. Lemon & orange oils are used in a similiar manner, but as they aren't water soluble they're diluted in vodka or gin.

Propylene Glycol (PG) is used to help tobacco to keep it's moisture - it somehow slows or retards the migration of water into or out of tobacco (it's also used in a lot of foods, bread, twinkies, you name it it's that commonly used). It is a pretty safe ingredient to add. Tasteless for most, but some dedicated tobacco afficianados claim they can taste the "sweetness" it impacts the tobacco. Molasses, different honeys, peach extract, chocolate etc you name it, are used.

I was actually surprised, when i first started visiting the mj forums after a 30+ year hiatus, at how much the MJ world had matured, with a huge multitude of strains, hybrids etc, and so little attention had been given to the curing process.

As far as flavorings - one i'll mention that would be hard to appreciate without having tasted it - i buy one tobacco from a tobacconist in the northeast, that is chocolate/cream flavored that i had actually bought as a joke for a friend. I tried it when it came in and it became my and my wife's "desert" smoke for after dinner. The bag aroma is so decadent, you almost feel you need to call Jenny Craig and arrange a subscription to their diet program just from smelling it - imagine the most delicious & decadently rich dark semi-sweet chocolate, still hot in the pot or pan. The taste is the part that would be hard to convey - it actually smokes (and tastes) as delicious as it smells.

Suspect some have already experimented with flavorings same as some (i'm sure) have managed, on strains they've dialed in, to enhance the leaf/bud color before harvest.

anyway, rant switch off

I'm certainly no expert, but I very much agree that burping is about walking the humidity (actually moisture content) down in the material, not about the air much at all. We want the life processes that are winding down & changing to continue, and the right moisture content promotes that. As Simon offers, when we over dry, those processes stop & will not restart. Nonetheless, we must bring the moisture content down fast enough & far enough to prevent mold.

Buds are only truly dead once they've dried completely or cured. (maybe frozen, never tried it) Complete drying stops the process, curing lets it finish.

 

[Team Microbe]

Interesting how many curing methods or approaches i've seen here on ICMag. I was active in a few tobacco forums, and there are vastly opposing schools of thought in the tobacco world as to how / why to cure.

I only mention as curing of mj or tobacco shares the same primarily goals, to enhance flavor/taste & smoothness as well as properly preserving the tobacco or mj.

But here's where the approaches vastly differ:

1) the main school sees basically the same method employed i see described here, in mason jars, 3/4s full to allow some oxygen in the jar, after the tobacco has hit the "sweet" humidity spot of 65-75% RH, leaving the jar shut or sealed tight for 3 months to 5 years (depending on the tobacco) - basically it's described that the bacteria beneficial to the process are aerobic.

2) the 2nd school, calls for the exact same process as above (mason jars, length of time curing etc) with one exception - jars are vacuum sealed to remove all oxygen possible, indicating the bacteria necessary are anerobic (not sure i spelled that correctly).

Both of those two approaches are defended or supported by tobacconists that would be the contemporaries of well respected breeders in the mj community, i mean individuals that might even have a little more background in their respective field of tobacco). Both support their positions with some technical details as a foundation for their positions (i'm not a botanist, chemist and haven't got a smidgeon of experience in those fields), but it always reads, on both sides of the argument, as well founded.

My point is, i came away with the conclusion that there are a multitude of methods to curing tobacco, and i suspect the same is true of mj - it's whatever works for that user.

As to the OP's original question, without having cured any mj but having played with a lot of tobacco, for ease of smoking and tobacco preservation, you don't want the tobacco or mj too dry or too wet.

By ease of smoking, i mean: too dry and it will smoke harsh, too wet and it will smoke much much smoother but go out easily.

By tobacco preservation, if stored too wet (80% RH or above, at temps, iirc, above 75F, mold becomes a great likelihood. Tobacco users shoot for 65-75% RH, and generally want to store it in a 55-60F temp environment.

The "burping" is also done in the tobacco community, and it's basic purpose is to walk the tobacco's or mj's humidity down in a slow controlled process. Naturaly the outside edges of the bud are going to dry faster and dryer than the core portion will, and as obvious, buds at the top of the jar will dry first, before the buds at the bottom - so when you open the jar, you're allowing moist air in the jar to exchange for dryer air, then in a few minutes you re-seal the jar. Moisture level in the buds drains out in a slower and controlled process where the extremities of the subject material (or the buds up top) don't dry out excessively more than the core.

If you're interested, hygrometers can be had on Amazon for @$7 that work pretty well - you could place one in one jar (and assume that is representative of other jars) if you wanted to get intense into curing your mj. I wasn't that interested in monitoring or controlling the RH (relative humidity) till i found out how much more pleasant my tobacco smoked when it was in the 70-75% RH range - made so much a difference, i now stage my tobaccos thru two tubs to bring the rh into that range before using it to stuff cigarettes.

We use mason jars in tobacco community for the same reason they use it here in mj, glass does not allow moisture to migrate in or out.

And for those inclined to using rubbermaid or other plastic tubs as a substitute - to give you an idea of how much they actually leak (around the lid), fill your sink with water, and submerge an empty tub, holding under water for a minute or two with the lightest pressure possible - out of 5 i tested for myself, 1 came out water tight, the other 4 ranged from a few drops of water inside to a teaspoon.

there's probably a lot in the tobacco community that would serve the mj community, in terms of storage / curing etc - after all, tobacconists have been practicing their art since the days of the english establishing the colony at Jamestown, Va in the US but i think the part that will be the most interesting to the mj community, are the ingredients & flavorings tobacconists learned to use in the cure process. A lot of tobaccos's taste sweetens with salt - folks will mix maybe a 1/4 teaspon of salt in 8-10 ounces of distilled water, lay the tobacco out on a tray, mist it with the salty solution, allow to dry and then put it in the curing jars. Lemon & orange oils are used in a similiar manner, but as they aren't water soluble they're diluted in vodka or gin.

Propylene Glycol (PG) is used to help tobacco to keep it's moisture - it somehow slows or retards the migration of water into or out of tobacco (it's also used in a lot of foods, bread, twinkies, you name it it's that commonly used). It is a pretty safe ingredient to add. Tasteless for most, but some dedicated tobacco afficianados claim they can taste the "sweetness" it impacts the tobacco. Molasses, different honeys, peach extract, chocolate etc you name it, are used.

I was actually surprised, when i first started visiting the mj forums after a 30+ year hiatus, at how much the MJ world had matured, with a huge multitude of strains, hybrids etc, and so little attention had been given to the curing process.

As far as flavorings - one i'll mention that would be hard to appreciate without having tasted it - i buy one tobacco from a tobacconist in the northeast, that is chocolate/cream flavored that i had actually bought as a joke for a friend. I tried it when it came in and it became my and my wife's "desert" smoke for after dinner. The bag aroma is so decadent, you almost feel you need to call Jenny Craig and arrange a subscription to their diet program just from smelling it - imagine the most delicious & decadently rich dark semi-sweet chocolate, still hot in the pot or pan. The taste is the part that would be hard to convey - it actually smokes (and tastes) as delicious as it smells.

Suspect some have already experimented with flavorings same as some (i'm sure) have managed, on strains they've dialed in, to enhance the leaf/bud color before harvest.

anyway, rant switch off

Thanks for all your input man, very informative!

It's funny how similar curing is in both communities too... we need more guys like you teaching us the tricks of the trade in the tobacco industry. Much respect. I bet there's a lot we don't know that could benefit our final product! I'm getting a hygrometer and will see if I notice a difference in quality. I bet I do...

 

[Team Microbe]

If burping is not done I have had buds mold. Ask my son who was supposed to burp daily while we were on vacation. He did not and ruined a whole mason jar of WWXBB. I was pissed, but these kids now a days are just not as attentive to detail as their parents are.

It's funny you mention that, because the same thing happened to my outdoor WWxBB haha

I jarred it too early, and smelled ammonia when I burped the first time. Never really went away... but I cut a clone and she's flowering right now so she'll have another shot

I think I misunderstood Kushman's article, I'm pretty sure he burps once or twice to get humidity down to 60%ish before he cures for the long haul. Like I mentioned in the previous post, I'm grabbing a hygrometer for the perfect cure next harvest. I feel like everyone should!

 

[Mate Dave]

mate dave - "....and freeze for long term storag." So you're aware, items stored in plastic tubs, bags etc in the refrig or freezer dry out over time as the plastic allows some moisture to migrate thru or out. That's why the higher quality potato chip bags have a shiny metalized or foil layer on the inside of the bags - it better seals the plastic, keeping moisture out.

i learned this the hardway with some expensive tobaccos.

just as an FYI

Yeah noddy! They're food grade.

What is your point you wanted to tell me,, that you ruined tobacco because you can't store it properly? Or some bollocks about crisps??

Are you aware of differences in types of plastics? And they're benefits - If not read about them as some plastics are better than Glass.

Glass it a terrible way to store cannabis!!! Glass weed!!! Poor quality glass even worse.

Read up about glass and plastics.

 

[chefboy6969]

well i have learned the hard way...if you don't burp and the buds are not dry...you will get mold on all your nice tops...trust me...you don't want that

So i burp, 100%

peace
Chefboy

 

[The OrigF/clred]

Yeah noddy! They're food grade.

What is your point you wanted to tell me,, that you ruined tobacco because you can't store it properly? Or some bollocks about crisps??

Are you aware of differences in types of plastics? And they're benefits - If not read about them as some plastics are better than Glass.

Glass it a terrible way to store cannabis!!! Glass weed!!! Poor quality glass even worse.

Read up about glass and plastics.

never will understand why some folks choose to respond with that kind of arrogance, unless it's to bolster a fragile ego. I was just mentioning a factoid that i suspect a lot of folks aren't aware of - but obviously it bored you

even food grade plastic allows some moisture migration, and especially when folks get into 6 - 12 month storage periods it will show. But if glass is a terrible way to store anything, we're living in different realities

 

[Team Microbe]

never will understand why some folks choose to respond with that kind of arrogance, unless it's to bolster a fragile ego. I was just mentioning a factoid that i suspect a lot of folks aren't aware of - but obviously it bored you

even food grade plastic allows some moisture migration, and especially when folks get into 6 - 12 month storage periods it will show. But if glass is a terrible way to store anything, we're living in different realities

my prediction is that he's a young kid who's obviously ignorant on how to store cannabis correctly, and ran out of weed that day and his mommy didn't give him any more money for a dime bag. Frustrations! hahaha

plastic is terrible in general. if you drink water from a plastic water bottle left in the sun, chemicals will be ingested since heat leaches them out and into that water. plastic isn't as clean as glass, period. I don't know why I just wasted my time saying that just now either... lol