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Correct dilution and application rates for Gibberellic Acid
- Thread starter Pumpkin
- Start date
Maybe if you look in the males transformed into females thread there may be some application rates.. That is where I got the dilution rates for what Sam S was using. I have the product information sheet in the Uncle fester Skunk thread.. Sorry I don't know about GA3. Not something I would use but I hope your successful & share your findings.
https://www.plantproducts.com/ca/im...pnv2qYmG2aQ2oTqUk78lCUVA39FiD6AQB0COCADMYrxwI
https://www.plantproducts.com/ca/im...pnv2qYmG2aQ2oTqUk78lCUVA39FiD6AQB0COCADMYrxwI
why do you choose GA over silver?
I have heard of GA for sex reversal, however from theorising, I would think the GA will have more unwanted side-effects(tall lanky growth/long internodes).
so is there a specific reason that something like sts does not work/has negative side-effects in your case? or just experimenting to see what it'll do, out of curiosity?
personally I've only tried sts, but I find it easy and reliable to use for sex reversal, and I haven't experienced any negatives where I think GA would be an improvement over sts.
I have heard of GA for sex reversal, however from theorising, I would think the GA will have more unwanted side-effects(tall lanky growth/long internodes).
so is there a specific reason that something like sts does not work/has negative side-effects in your case? or just experimenting to see what it'll do, out of curiosity?
personally I've only tried sts, but I find it easy and reliable to use for sex reversal, and I haven't experienced any negatives where I think GA would be an improvement over sts.
S
SandyFantasyman
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Why choose GA3? Well I have a lt of it and no CS. And I know I am working with some strains that are very hard to reverse.
From what I can figure you want a mix of about 500ppm.. and spray for about 10 days before flowering. But there is very little information I can actually find on it. I think I may have made it too strong last time as I did not get a lot of male flowers (or any flowers) and a lot of stretching. So I gather I made it a little too strong. I managed to get some seeds out of it, but nowhere near what I was planning for. I also did not throw a EC meter in, so am not sure what my ppm's were anyway, but used about 1ml a lt. Sandy, if you have any results from your testing please share, and maybe we can both not fuck it up next time
If there is no more better information coming I'll try it at half strength (0.5ml a lt) and do a varied amount of spraying on different plants ... 10 days, 5 days and 3 days.
Be nice if someone who has done this before with great success could chime in though. As I do not want to fuck these clones as I do not have backups of the genetics. I'm off grid so it is very hard to keep mothers about.
From what I can figure you want a mix of about 500ppm.. and spray for about 10 days before flowering. But there is very little information I can actually find on it. I think I may have made it too strong last time as I did not get a lot of male flowers (or any flowers) and a lot of stretching. So I gather I made it a little too strong. I managed to get some seeds out of it, but nowhere near what I was planning for. I also did not throw a EC meter in, so am not sure what my ppm's were anyway, but used about 1ml a lt. Sandy, if you have any results from your testing please share, and maybe we can both not fuck it up next time
If there is no more better information coming I'll try it at half strength (0.5ml a lt) and do a varied amount of spraying on different plants ... 10 days, 5 days and 3 days.Be nice if someone who has done this before with great success could chime in though. As I do not want to fuck these clones as I do not have backups of the genetics. I'm off grid so it is very hard to keep mothers about.
it's silver thiosulphate.
you make it out of silver nitrate and sodium thiosulphate, both of which are easy to order online(silver nitrate is used in making your own mirrors I think, sodium thio sulphate for photography). there are recipes to make it online, pay attention to wether the sodium thiosulphate is pentahydrate or not(doesn't matter chemically which you use, but it changes the weight you need to add), and the order you mix the 2 solutions(I don't remember the order, but if it turns black it was the wrong order, the result should look just like water).
my mastermix which I made 2 years ago has 0.25 grams of silvernitrate(+2 grams of sodium thio sulphate) in 500 ml of water, I dilute that somewhere between 1:6 and 1:10(tried some different dilutions, after experimenting I found lower doses are best if they work, only go higher if a low dose doesn't work for a particular plant), then I apply a few drops right at the nodes/forming flowers daily for 2-3 days, then I wait 2 weeks and if needed do another aplication(often not needed, if the timing was right first time).
the sts effect stays for around 3 weeks, after that time you'll see the new flowers develop as female flowers again. right after aplication it'll halt growth for a while, after 1,5 week or so it starts growing again, first you'll see some female flowers again then the balls come. the first balls may be empty(or at least, no or barely any visible pollen, but I've still had success pollinating with dried, crushed balls like that), with a too heavy dose or too often aplication you'll have lots of balls but they're all empty(visibly).
but when the sts starts wearing off, the balls that already formed will ripen and will open and will be full of pollen, just like a natural male.
