cooling problems

[igotpron]

so my buddy has a closet thats 2' deep, 7.5' wide and 8 feet tall approx. were doing some testing right now and he has a 1000 in a sun gro cool hood. he thought something of a 350 cfm would be fine for sucking through the hood, so he doubled thats got a 630 6" hurricane, and this thing doesnt seem to pull enough air through the hood. the way he has it set up is. theres the fan in the attic and about 2 feet of 6" duct, then a reducer to 4" with a 4" 90, that drops into the closet with a 4" staight piece and theres only like a 4' piece of 4" dryer hose. now the problem is this thing doesnt seem to move enough air through the hood. does he need to just use 6" all around and forget the 4"?? when everthings closed up the temps hit the 90s and this is unacceptable.. anyone got some advice for me here.. thanks

 

[Verite]

If you cant get an AC unit in there you should think about a co2 tank. Plants will tolerate higher temps better with more co2.

 

[igotpron]

cant do co2. broke, and to hard to seal the room, and that would also require cutting more holes in walls/ceiling etc. and ac is not gonna be possible i dont think. will 6" make a biggher difference?

 

[70s_PotHead]

The thing you have to remember about klozit growing, your klozit no matter how much air flow you have, if the temp outside the klozit is say 75, your klozit will run 80-85 no matter what you do with the light on. You are totally dependent on outside ambient air temp. If you want to cool your klozit then cool the outside air going into your klozit. The other thing i'd do is split that 6 inch line and have 1/2 go to the light and the other 1/2 at the highest point in your klozit oppisite side of your lower air intake vent cause heat rises.
You do have a passive air intact system flowing into your klozit dont you???

70s

 

[blackfin]

the 4" duct can only pass so much air through... when you asked about the light foot print of the sungro i didn't know that you were going to put a 1000watter in it...if i would of known that i would've suggested a ac hood with 6" flanges

your going to have to modify the hood to increase the air flow, just get some tin snips and go to work.... well first mark out your hole...


edit: also it would be a good idea to do what 70's said and split the duct in two

 

[igotpron]

yeah, i allready "customized" it so looks like were gonna have to find some 6" flex and go back in the damn hell hole of an attic. fuck waisted 20 bucks of material, arg!!

 

[blackfin]

yeah that sucks, just watch out for spiders ... they like warm places in the winter.... if you can't find the flexi, it should be easier to find rigid duct, you're only going to need flexi conected to the light so you can move the light up and down


and it would be a lot more effiencent to use as little flexi as possible

 

[igotpron]

yeah i figured that, so at most its gonna be like 6' flex at most. cuz everything else is rigid.. spiders suck, but so does not having a laddar and beeing to cheap to buy one, having to spiderman your way up the walls rather a fun task..

 

[Guest]

Have you thought of trying the fan sucking right off the hood and blowing into the attic? Hard to visualize your setup and not knowing the size of your intake(s). Is that what was mentioned by splitting into two?

Keep in mind that it's the nature of flexi to impede flow, I'd get as much of the duct smooth if possible. That 90 deg is problematic also, the FAQs on OG mention a few things concerning airflow, have you checked them. For me, I would try to do with 45s instead of a 90, but I don't know what your space constrictions are. If you can smooth out the 90 and cut down on flexi length you may have the solution.

Good luck gettin the attic straight.
Keep us posted.

 

[igotpron]

naw its got the 630cfm hurricane, with 2' of 6" rigid to a 4" reducer with a 4" 90, then down through the ceiling with a foot or so of 4" rigid, then about 4' of flec to the top of the hood.. trust i only used the flex when i had to. but i think im upgrading to 6", and adding a portable ac unit in that bitch.. anyt one htink its a bad idea to suck warm exhaust form a ac unit through my hood on my sungro hood?

 

[Harry Gypsna]

i think that using warmed air to go through ur aircooled hood would defeat the object of it a little mate.....

 

[igotpron]

im just trying to exhaust the warm air from the ac unit and the hood, i spose i could put a "Y" in there with a dampner in the exhaust for the ac since it doesnt need much air to be sucked from it, im just trying to be lazy about this and another piece of flex attcahed to my hood is about as lazy as it can get.. i unno, sumone key in here and flame me if im stoopid here.. thanks

 

[Guest]

Man sounds like you ran into the same problem I did. I started out with 1 dayton 465 and a 440 inline (split for light and intake) with a 1k air cooled in a closet. Would stay mid 70's to 80. Once summer came around had to pump serious a/c (90-100 outside)in and buy another dayton 465. My closet was 4.5ft x 5ft x 8ft. One thing that helped me out a whole lot was putting the ballast's for the light and other devices in the attic. Another fans to move the air in the room. Also what kind of A/C unit are you using? I've seen the Ghetto Tek's that show sealing the back of a window A/C unit in a big rubbermaid container and using ducting to exchange the air outside the room. Remote A/C for cheap.




As you can see some of the maze of ducting.

 

[igotpron]

naw i had my eye on this portable unit that has 4" ducting your supposed to place in yoru window seal, so i figured something like this would be perfect, kinda pricey at 300 bucks, but if thats what i gotta do its well worth the money. i figure 8000 btus is more then enough for my pussy area..
http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDU...ID=ccdladdgkfgmkkdcgelceffdfgidgjn.0&MID=9876

 

[Coco Nuts]

will 6" make a biggher difference?

Area of a 4" circle: 12.56
Area of a 6" circle: 28.27 = 230% more area

You would need a 13" 2.5hp fan to pull 600cfm through a 4" port (which is approximately the cfm of your hurricane fan). Furthermore, you've got a 90 degree bend in your ducting which adds even more static pressure. If I had to guess you are pulling about as much air as a Dayton 265 would in a free-air environment.

8000 btu's is approximately the heat put out from a 1000w bulb. I think if you increase your duct size to 6" your problems will go away. Beyond that, I'd opt for a cooltube and split the 6" into two fours, one for the tube and one for the area.

Just my