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Cooling a room

chranotik

Member
Hello all, currently im running 1450w off 2 hoods that are air cooled by a 450cfm blower and 450cfm vortex that is scrubbing 24/7 at the end. Room is about 8x10 but i'm only using about 4.5x8 of it to grow in. I have a 8000 btu window a/c that doesn't seem to work well enough to cool the room and it seems to leak co2 a bit. Running a 20lb tank on a sentinel cppm-1. Temperatures before i installed the cooltube/growzilla and aircooled them were about anywhere from 90-95 .. now its running at 87-91 and redirecting the heat up towards the ceiling. I expected better results but what can you expect when the room is sealed. So i looked into getting water cooled lights or those hydro innovations ice box's .. but that seemed pretty silly having to have a huge reservoir and a chiller running not to mention running tubes/hoses through the wall or under the door. Now im thinking of looking into a 10,000 - 12,000 btu mini split a/c so i can take the window a/c out and just use that instead so i'd have no co2 leakage. Also i will be taking out the 250w in the growzilla and replacing it with another 600w making it a total of 1800 in 2 hoods, so i need to think about that as well.

Any suggestions?
Also here's a pic ...

10s81sp.jpg
 
S

sparkjumper

Keep in mind optimum canopy temps during flower at 1500PPM co2 is 85F.
 

ReeferRon

Member
Hey! Whats up...

I use a similar set up as yours and was having the same problems with heat. (Mines two 1000 watters.) After many trials a tribulations I finally have a system that keeps it...."manageable".

One of the things I can highly recommend is a light mover. Not only great for heat distribution but you get a much denser flower with vigorous growth all the way around the plants. Really helped me with hot spots in such a small area with so much light. (4'X6')

Also short straight runs with your duct work help increase fan efficiency tremendously. I found each time I shortened them the room cooled a little better. (Thus the nice straight lines all the way out of the room.)

This is also the case with the exhaust duct and I have mine on a 24" piece and out of the area. As you probably all ready know, every time you bend the duct you lose cfms. Inches can make a difference. Straight and short is the key.

Check it out...

I hope this helps!
 

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Awfully hot, you must live close to hell. I think you have to find a way to vent more of that hot air. If the window AC is in, maybe an exhaust panel above it ? Lots of unknowns here.
 

chranotik

Member
i live very close to hell actually seeing as it hits almost 110 here in summer sometimes but ill be running it at night then so hopefully wont get up over 80-85 outside. Im trying to shorten the ducting as well as i can, they werent shortened in that pic yet as we had just put up the blower. After putting a lot of thought into it I decided instead of getting a mini split a/c or anything i think i'm going to try out the ice boxes.. going to get 2 of them and a 1/4hp water chiller, put 2 holes near the hinges on the door for the lines and set it up that way into a 55gal reservoir. I figured this will be my best route as that will act as an air conditioner while keeping the room exhaust free and i can use the window a/c even less. The chiller wont even take up that much wattage and i'll save money in the longrun. What do you guys think? Anyone here ever used those?

ReeferRon -- nice setup, i wouldnt mind a lightmover but i think the way i have it setup now and factoring in that i have a lot of free time i can be a manual light mover, im going to be using soma beds with the wheels on them so ill have no trouble moving em around if needed.
 

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