Is it an automatic sensing driver for the voltage? You might have to move a switch or re wire the driver if it is a multi tap to 120v as well.Hi all. Wondering if anyone could answer this:
If I have a fluence led ballast that is 120-277v with a 240v plug end, can I convert the plug end into 120v. New spot with breakers not wired for 240 yet. Thanks very much
Will this safely work on all 240 v fixtures? Even 1000watt de/se HID setups?
No. Not all 240v stuff will work on 120v. Only some. You must look where the cable enters the device, to find the information.Will this safely work on all 240 v fixtures? Even 1000watt de/se HID setups?
Will this safely work on all 240 v fixtures? Even 1000watt de/se HID setups?
I think you misread his questionyes, They're made for use on USA 240v/120v plugs only.. Some fixtures come with them instead of 120v cords.
The little switch to move transformer taps is getting pretty rare now. Very little kit comes with such a transformer now. It's a lot of metal to make one, which has somehow become more expensive than using some sort of smps, now that high voltage semiconductors are plentiful. I find it odd that we can be knocking out electronics, cheaper than a foundry can make transformers. A part that's still actually in most things, just smaller as they are more efficient at higher frequencies. Still had to make and wind one though. The price of power electronics is just so cheap now. 20 years ago I had a monster of a car amp, so big the local broker refused it existed, and wouldn't even come to my car to see. He insisted he had the UK's biggest himself. Now, 20 years on... it's barely worth having. Something half the size and half the weight, is twice as powerful and doesn't even have a heatsink. Closer to home, the weight of a 600w ballast, verse a 600w driver, makes the lack of a big lump very noticeable. I don't think we will ever see an LED driver that needs a physical alteration to change input voltage.Is it an automatic sensing driver for the voltage? You might have to move a switch or re wire the driver if it is a multi tap to 120v as well.
No. Not all 240v stuff will work on 120v. Only some. You must look where the cable enters the device, to find the information.
I think you misread his question
It's a plug adapter. It doesn't turn 120v at the wall, into 240v for the device. It just moves the pins about, to fit a different receptacle. It's nothing more than a travel adapter. It passes the 120v through it, to your appliance. If your appliance doesn't work on 120v, it's of no use. Though wouldn't be dangerous in most cases.NOPE.. I got some of those with my 1KW CMH fixture. They will not work on EU plugs, it needs another adaptor. has zero do to with the fixture itself.
It's a plug adapter. It doesn't turn 120v at the wall, into 240v for the device. It just moves the pins about, to fit a different receptacle. It's nothing more than a travel adapter. It passes the 120v through it, to your appliance. If your appliance doesn't work on 120v, it's of no use. Though wouldn't be dangerous in most cases.
Just seeing a pic does leave room for confusion, so here is a link to one for sale. They go to lengths to explain it won't make a 240v item work from a 120v outlet
That is a 220 plug adaptor for different plugs
yesthe device has to be 120v/240v compatible or damage will occur.
The question was if it will work on all 240v lights, including the 1000w DE'sDude. you obviously do not understand how the adaptors work. Go read a book. My above post explains it clearly. Of course that adapter won't work on 240v it's for a 120v outlet.. All it does is cut off 1 hot leg for use on 120v. It doesn't use a neutral wire just 1 hot and ground. 120V to 240v adaptor combines both the hot legs together to produce 240v needed. All these do is move the wires inside nothing more. The fixture's 120-277v ballast does the conversion.
The question was if it will work on all 240v lights, including the 1000w DE's
You said yes.
Will it work on this one then?
The answer is no.
Your center tapped delta windings are no mystery to me. If you feel they support your answer, It's not me that needs a book. It's entirely irrelevant.
If the wall only provides 120, and the light needs 240, then no amount of swapping wires around is going to help.
However, if the wall provides 120, and the light will run on 120, then it's all good.
No degree in electrical distribution systems is required. All appliances have an information plate near where the flex enters. They tell you the operating conditions. Without this plate, items fail basic visual inspection. They are not approved for use, at all. We have this plate, to see what power supply it needs. It's really quite elementary.