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Controllable Mars FCE 4800 bar light

flylowgethigh

Non-growing Lurker
ICMag Donor
Mars is sponsoring a grow, and sent me a new light.

https://www.mars-hydro.com/fc-e4800-commercial-led-grow-light

The RG11 Port #1 can now be used on this driver Mars sent me, to control the power on a FCE 4800.

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The driver has a control box (on the right), and that is where the action happens I think. Note the switch on the back of the little box.

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The light's job is to make light, the controller's job is to control the light. I asked if Mars could make their lights control the same as others do, with the 0-10 volt RG-11, and they seem to have done just that. Who says nobody ever listens to Dopers?

In my opinion, and I will be testing this opinion, this puts the Mars lights in the same class for control-ability as the e680 lights I am using now. Good job Mars.

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The power cord between the individual (and replaceable without having to send in the whole light if one bar goes bad) light bars, and the driver, is about 8 feet long. That might allow me to locate the driver in my control closet with the other controls.

The 14" power output numbers on this 3' x 3' 6-bar 480 Watt light at full power (via rotary knob which adjusts continuously, no clicks), are about 970 u-moles (Photobio handheld). The power distribution across the center 3' is acceptably even. t 14" I did not see the Photobio meter changing when I went across the grain of the bars when the meter sensor was in-between bars. I wish I had worn the green glasses. I had the light running full bore almost two hours while I did this. The light bars on top were warm, but not hot, and the driver also only warm. I could put my hand on and leave it there comfortably. No worries about melting the air exhaust filter's outer-wrap.

My plan is to change out the e680 light that I am currently running in one of my tents, with this FCE 4800. That will be when I do the post-run cleanout of the run #4 NLD tent, in preparation for the next run (more NLD).

The other tent will still be running the 680 Watt light it currently has, and both tents are controlled by the existing Growers Choice controller, independently. Changing to the Mars will be a simple plug and play change. That is the beauty of a standard interface that the companies all use. There are other companies making controllers also, and this same standard applies.
 
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exploziv

pure dynamite
Administrator
Veteran
When did this change happened? Good to hear! I wanted 0-10V dimming as well!
 

flylowgethigh

Non-growing Lurker
ICMag Donor
I was able to convince Mars that joining the industry in controllability was a good idea, and they have done just that. I get to try their design, and report on how things go. As soon as I free up space from Run #4 I will start another Sativa run with this light. I think the control is scalable to the 6500, at least I hope so. That is the size class light I like to use in my tents.
 

f-e

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
I don't see 0-10v as such? Just the usual daisy-chain using the internal 10v. Which has always given the option for external 0-10v if you chose to. It's Dali.

Odd spelling of Meanwell. I would have a radio around that.
 

flylowgethigh

Non-growing Lurker
ICMag Donor
Believe it. Just like the other lights I use, the 4800 I have can now be controlled by a controller. Same phone jack plug, same 0-10 VDC signal.. This is new.
 

flylowgethigh

Non-growing Lurker
ICMag Donor
And other controllers... Here is my set-up with a Growers Choice dual channel controller. There is also two exit fan controllers:

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What the industry needs is a device to raise and lower the lights, with remote control. Simple up /down is all that is needed. Then a leaf temp remote thermometer with a remote readout would allow the lights to be positioned at the right height to get the leaf temps right, for the power being used.

The design is so simple... a 1" diameter tube extends front to rear. The rotation is driven by a motor that can be started and stopped, and reversed. There are pulleys hung from the tent's top side bars. The cord from a ratchet is attached from the light through the pulleys, to the tube, with the right side attached on top, and the left side on the bottom. As the tube is rotated one revolution, the light is raised or lowered 3.14 x 1" = 3.14". The motor is attached to the mounting mechanism, which is attached to the front and rear top tent bars. Adjust the bar length by sliding one half inside the other (extrusions).

They can call it a 'FlylowGethigh' if they give me a prototype to test and a couple production units for my tents. This is an open source idea now -good luck with the patent drew.
 

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flylowgethigh

Non-growing Lurker
ICMag Donor
I am glad that I mounted the light driver the way I have, which is a piece of aluminum bar 1" x 1/8" I bent and screwed one side to the wall. The light driver just sits in the rack, and has air on both sides. It gets warm, and if it was in the tent on the light, it could get warmer.

I am running the light now and it is controlling as it should. The light power can be set in 1% increments via the controller. When I make adjustments they are in 3% or so increments, and that can have enough impact on the temps to have to undo it.

https://www.icmag.com/threads/run-6-haze-nl-87-under-mars-4800e-with-control.18116103/

My lung room is around 71-73 degrees F. I have a fan pumping in filtered air and the tent air gets 75-76*F at 2/3's up in the 8' tall tent. The light power is what makes the heat, and the heat is the limiting factor in how much power I can use. So far 500 watts is about all my 4 x 4 x 8 tents can take, and keep 75-76*F at the 2/3 height.
 
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StickyBandit

Well-known member
I was looking at buying a mars hydro FCE 480 or FC 480 but not sure the FCE has enough brightness compared to the FC. The Samsung LM301's have a good name but not sure about the new ones
What is your opinion now you have nearly finished the grow?
Cheers
 

flylowgethigh

Non-growing Lurker
ICMag Donor
I just pulled well over a pound of haze. A 6500 might be better for a 8’ tall 4x4, but 480 watts did the job. The grow was kept short for the lower power. I don’t know about the diodes. The light works perfectly, and the driver can be mounted remotely. I have the driver with the controller in a separate closet.
 
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StickyBandit

Well-known member
I just pulled well over a pound of haze under one. A 6500 might be better for a 4x4, but 480 watts did the job. I don’t know about the diodes. The light works perfectly, and the driver can be mounted remotely. I have the driver with the controller in a separate closet.
Thanks for the reply (y)
I've been watching your grow with much interest and envy :p
I have the option to buy either for my 4x4 and was wondering about bud density
The E version is quite a bit cheaper
 

flylowgethigh

Non-growing Lurker
ICMag Donor
Bud density isn’t even a thing with haze IMO. I did frost up the buds more this run, but I changed other factors like the environment too.

Get a good light. The last thing you want is a failure in a run. If I knew how those plants would grow (I didn’t), that could have been a 2 pound run I think. What’s a few more bucks up front?
 
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