Connecting to a dryer outlet...

[Marlboroman520]

Yes I know I was told to find an electrician but I have a book on wiring and now that I know the ratings of wire i think i can handle this, but I have a few questions.....Since as mybeans put it a monkey could put in a new circut breaker, I decided not to be that monkey, instead I found an unused dryer outlet 30Amp., I have 50ft of 10 guage wire 30+amp, one 15 amp recptecle with 6 outlets on each,.. the dryer hookup has 4 wires, hot, postive, negative, and ground, the hot wire i know is for drawing exorbanat ammounts of electricity to a dryer,.. so could i just not use the hot wire. cover it witha wingcap and electric tape that fucker,. then hook the wires as normal to the length of wire then to the recepticle... ? are there 30 amp recepticles? will it not opperate without the hot wire ?

 

[Marlboroman520]

Well, the 30 amp outlet is rated 125/250volts, the red hot wire is most likely 250 volts and the black hot wire is most likely 125 volts,.. the 250 volts is for the heating coil of the dryer and the 125 is for standard timer and the pilot light,.

my ballasts are 120v ballasts.. my airconditioning unit is 115v..

at any given time ill be drawing 365 volts my line is rated at 600v,

also ill be drawing 2.654 kw

 

[Catchin1]

I can't believe this shit

I can't believe this shit

in the breaker box find the 30 amp breaker that supplies this circuit. the breaker should be a double poled. this means it should have two wires connected directly to the breaker.
red and black. this breaker can be converted to 110 by disconnecting one of those wires from the breaker. so whichever one you disconnect is the one that you cut off at the other end then you can use the remaining 3 wires as you normally would
let me suggest you install a 20 amp GFCI recepticle as the first in your circuit. the wire from the breaker goes on the load side. you can then add additional receptacles using the line side of the GFCI. just remember that when you are going in to any receptacle you use the load side. going out use the line side
let me know if you have any questions

of course this is all assuming that your ballasts are wired for 110v and you dont want to rewire them





DUDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This is like the blind leading the blind. You know I have been to more house fires because of people reading those books and trying to do it yourselfers and getting shitass advice from friends, just like what is going on here.
Sorry to step on toes but when it comes to this I don't give a fuck because you are talking about my fuckin livelyhood here and I have spent over 20 years in the trade and have a masters license and see the end results all the time of bullshit like this.



FIRST OFF--- GET A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN TO DO THIS WORK FOR YOU!!!!!!!!!! Really thats all that needs be said because reading what you think (marlboro) and reading what (mybeans) wrote neither of you know enough to amount to what I have forgotten....................

Marlboro see my above advice in caps.........mybeans.....stop giving bad and incorrect advice. #1 the line is the line from the breaker and the load is what is protected by the GFI. Your load would be down current as in "the receptacles protected". #2 do not just disconnect 1 wire from a two pole breaker and use it as a single pole WTF??????????? If you want to split the circiut up and get two circuits there, that is possible now that you have four wires there. You just need to make sure the two new breakers you put on are phased correctly so they can share the neutral-ground does not make a fuck you can share that NFP............ Each the red and black will be the hots for the two new circuits _pahased correctly sharing the same neutral and ground wire. I would make them two 20 amp circuits and use receptacles rated the same.
Thats all the advice I will give as I feel this was too much already for a newbie to experience.
By the way...what is your home,possessions and possible family worth to you?????? I would hope more then a few hundred dollars which is all it would cost for this to be done correctly and safely


Oh yeah and after reading further--- NEVER cut off a fuckin wire in a box...........I have thrown hammers at helpers for dfoing stupider things then that, Imagine what I would do catchin you cutting a fuckin wire off---------dude get a fuckin clue and dont give any more electrical advice------------------Besides Slelballast and I both already gave you this very same advice on some other board.........................................

Catchin1

 

[Marlboroman520]

3 pole dryer plugin

3 pole dryer plugin

I was wrong about how many wires, its only a 3 pole dryer hookup,.. guess that solves most of the problem.. and about the breaker ,by dual pole you mean it has two wire hookups its a double pole but single throw,unforutantly i cant get the box cover off because i m too short,.and no a ladder wont help because it is above steps.. so. .it could still be 250 volts,. i never wanted to get in the box in the first place thats why i was jimmy rigging an outlet.. so should i get a voltage meter and try that ?.. i guess ill be testing the line this week., where does the danger of fire come from ? i do have a 20 amp gfci receptacle .... i guess a dryer plugin isnt ment to be drawing electricity all the time.. sorry for the dumb post, its just i cant get in that fucking breaker box for nothing, and i dont wanan fall down the steps, its rental property and im trying to keep out the fucking land lord.,.. if he stops by and sees electrcitans hes goin to wonder woat the fuck is going on... btw it is a legit grow room but i know fuckign with the interior of the house would get me kicked out,. thats why im not wanting an electrician around.. sounds like i m fucked,. if i wire my ballasts for 250 and its 110 they wont even ignite right ? i dotn wanna say fuck the whole project, and sell the lights, i need a fucking hobbie... btw all the thing is is like a big 30 amp extention cord, if only they had 30 amp recepticles it would be fine... everything is rated correctly and the right guage...

 

[Babbabud]

flaming

flaming

sure seems like we could give the answer without all the flaming going on . I understand that we are talking aabout electricity and that it could be a danger but ppl do not respond to all the flaming very well . If you want to answer questions in this manner just go back to OG because we have a GOOD vibe going here and can do with out all the negativity. I think its great that you want to help but please just give your advice in a nice and civil manner . Dont want to start a war here ..... CANT WE ALL JUST GET ALONG

 

[Marlboroman520]

Rewire the ballast

Rewire the ballast

the wouldnt have put a dual pole breaker in there if they werent hooking up 250 volts. sounds stupid but i m not even goin to test this line,. so ill just rewire the ballasts and have a nice grow room with a cord i can remove at anytime in case of problems with the landlord...

 

[Marlboroman520]

I have since got this working to all who are intersted listen up

I have since got this working to all who are intersted listen up

first off there are 3 pole plugs and 4 pole plugs

3 pole is like this

\ /
L
"\" being 120volts black "/" being 120volts red and L being neutral not ground NONE OF THESE IS GROUND.. the ground is hardwired to the box.. and is not on the receptical at all..

four pole is like this

o o being ground
\ / \being 120v black / being 120v red
L L being neutral
in this case there is a ground

just because a 3 pole adaptor has 3 wires this does not mean you hook them all up...DO NOT HOOK EITHER \ OR / TO GROUND..THEY ARE HOT AND WILL BURN YOUR HOUSE DOWN and L is not ground..... like he said above if you go into the breaker box there is a double pole breaker,. which means it has two wires. disconnect one of the hot wires, and use the other.if your aiming for 240/250 volts use both wires..... if your going to do this buy a plug that has the wires labled. REMBMER NEUTRAL IS NOT GROUND.. NEUTRAL IS WHITE..

3pole
red hot, black hot, white neutral...

4 pole
red "hot" black "hot" green "ground" white "neutral"...



FUCK IT DONT TRY THIS AT HOME KIDS

 

[Pactivist]

I agree

I agree

Marlboroman, your last post was a pretty accurate description of a 240 outlet as far as i can tell. catchin1 needs to be a little less condescending, since it does not seem like he really knows how a dryer works.
In an electric dryer, at least all of them that i have torn apart, the voltage is used independently, with 120volts going to the motor, and 120volts going to the heating coil. So in all honesty a dryer outlet is not truly using 240v at the same time, it is using 120v x 2 in two separate circuits inside the dryer. I have a multimeter and have tested this myself.
And even though a four wire 240v outlet is wired somewhat differently the net effect is the same. an arc welder does take full advantage of the 240volts, due to the internal wiring in the welder itself, and so would a 240v ballast, and this has nothing to do with the outlet.
now even though catchin1 was so rude I will agree with him that the breakers are not really designed to work separately. for example - if you were to use a double pole breaker, split into two lines - here is what could happen. If only one side of this circuit shorts out, it may not be enough of a short to trip the entire breaker since 30amp breakers are desinged with a high current capacity, and also are designed to handle large amounts of momentary inrush current when the appliance is turned on, BUT THIS TYPE OF SHORT COULD EASILY BURN UP YOUR EQUIPMENT(and your house) AND STILL NEVER TRIP THE BREAKER.
I strongly suggest that you split this into two separate circuits, with two wires and two separate breakers, and never exceed the rated capacity of either the breakers or the wire.
take this advice from someone that bought an old house and has been fixing everything from the plumbing to the wiring himself. Electricity is nothing to mess with. BTW thanks to baccas125 i found lots of info about my electrical box so apparently he does know a little about what he says.
just for your info - I am a licensed aircraft mechanic, and all large aircraft run 110v systems with no real ground (they are meant to fly) and circuit breakers. all they are is a flying closed loop system. they are wired just like houses with very few real differences.
final thought - just make sure that whatever you do that it is done safely. I cannot stress this more. safety is job 1
peAce pacT

BTW-110volt to the pilot- lmfao- as far as i know electric dryers don't have a pilot light- lmfao
please read my post again.