connecting a canfan directly to can filter

[pineappaloupe]

Ok, I have searched for some info on this and found nothing.
My question it how to I get this:




To this: (fan is sitting on filter not attached)





any ideas? I was thinking about using a method similar to attaching the flange to the filter, spongy tape and sheet metal screws. It worked great on a flat surface, but I dont want to bend the aluminum neck of the fan.

I need to make the connection strong because the fan and filter will be hung horizontally on the roof of my box.

once i figure it out i'll post my solutions.

peace

 

[Guest]

Is there a reason why you want to connect the fan directly to the filter? Hang them seperately a few feet appart - run flexible ducting (like dryer hose, the size of the output) between them. If you have a vented hood, I'd put that between the filter and the fan to keep things all nice and cool.

1'st rule on Vent I was taught - never blow a light...only suck. My setup is as follows

air--->Filter--->Light--->Fan--->Vent

Fan blowing in direction of arrows, out vent, pulling air through filter and light. Also, make sure your fan is high enough CFM's to clear the room at least 2-3 times a minute. (find cubic volume of room lengh x width x height - then double it).

 

[MTF-Sandman]

I think I'd hang them seperately also...only reason it'd be advantageous is if it's a real tight space. If it is, then attach the fan with some self tapping sheet metal screws and seal it with aluminum backed tape and make sure to support both the scrubber and the fan when you hang them.

 

[pineappaloupe]

I always thought that the closer the fan was to the scrubber the more efficient the system is. If i can mount the filter directly to the fan i can avoid 90 degree bends.
Also, mounting the fan first is best because no hot air passes through it, shortening the life of the fan. The can fan documentation says it shouldn't exceed 80 degree ambient air, air from the hoods would easily be over 80. Also, hot air being pushed through a filter isnt the greatest.

my box is 4 deep x 8 wide x 7 tall, 220ft^3 or so. from what i remember you need to clear the air once every 3 minutes....

peace

 

[Guest]

Not sure I understand a couple of your points, or maybe you did not understand what I was trying to say.

First, not sure about your pushing air through the filter thought came from - air from the room is sucked into the filter, thru the light, thru the fan and out the vent into my attic. No pushing/blowing....all suckie suckie!!

Not sure about losing too much efficiency with the slight bends - as long as the vent hose is air tight at all connections, I think it sucks pretty well.

On heat - I'm running a 1k hps - with the amount of airflow, the glass on the hood is not even warm to the touch, passive vent brings in nice 75 degree air, and that is what temp the room stays. Personally, a fan is a couple hundred bucks, I'd rather cut the life in half (which I don't think I am) - and keep my lights cool!

Our cubic feet is about the same. My room is (4x5x9) so 180CF, I'm running a 440cfm, with the drag from the filter, figure 1.5-2 times cleared a minute.

Would love some input on the once every 3 minutes...I was always told once a minute, 2-3 times a minute was better. Maybe I went OVERKILL on the ventilation...but figured better safe then sorry - prevents so many issues down the road - heat, odor, mold.....

Oh and for hanging it - I made kinda a harness out of climbing rope and attached a pulley to the ceiling - I'm 5'1, 95lbs - was not an easy hoist, but got it up and tied off. To avoid vibration/noise, I hung the fan with bungee from a hook, did not use the mounting brackets. It worked out kickass, and due to my strength/size - it was my only option.

Good luck, I'm sure whatever you work out will work - just wanted to share my experience, and what works very well for me! any vent/filter is better then no vent/filter.

 

[pineappaloupe]

Chick: I totally misread your diagram. my bad. i still think that hot air through the fan is not the greatest idea, unless the fan is high end. my canfan specifically said to not run it in ambient temps about 80.

I found that thread with info on changing air:
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=30891&highlight=CFM+co2

According to unregistered (who apparently is a registered user..) says change it out once every 3 minutes. I cant figure out if they are talking about venting a closed system with a CO2 generator, or venting lights in an open system with passive intake.

I doubt there is such a thing as too much ventilation in a grow box in the absence of efficiency. I can't imagine that the volume of air in the box will be depleted of CO2 in 1 minute, or even 5 minutes.

I'll keep looking though.



:::EDIT:::
I just checked the old OG faq. It said to replace depleted CO2: one air change in 5 minutes is minimal. 1 per minute should maintain atmospheric Co2.
http://www.drugs-forum.com/growfaq/1013.htm




peace

 

[Guest]

I did not realize you were planning on running Co2. This is an area I know nothing about, as I've never played with it yet. I really try to keep my set-up as simple and cheap as possible, while still maintaining solid results.

And honestly, don't worry so much about hot air thru the fan - they are pretty much designed to work with the lights, and trust me - with enough airflow - it's not that hot.

Definately let me/us know your progress and how it works out.

 

[MTF-Sandman]

You sure that 80 degree rating is F and not C? My elicent is rated for 140f incoming air...

Changing the air that often is for vented setups with no Co2 supplimentation...if you're running CO2 there is no need to exchange the air unless you have temp/RH issues.

 

[Guest]

I just had to check, slid the glass back and slipped my hand in...same temp as the rest of the room...72-77 F. What's there maybe 4 cubic feet of space? with a 440CFM fan..the air in/around the bulb is getting exchanged 110 times a minute. That's about twice a second. My Fan's not sweating, and neither are my babies.

I had an old boss that always told me, when in doubt...do the math.

 

[pineappaloupe]

I guess I didnt make that clear, im not running CO2. I don't plan to until i really get myself dialed in and one a perpetual harv cycle.

chick: im a big fan of doing the math as well (i have a $100 calculator and know how to use it)

so I haven't been totally with it on this thread... canfan is rated to 80.... C!
all apologies, my mistake.
why the hell cant we just go metric....

anyway so I will keep the fan between the lights setup in mind... i never heard of or thought that before this thread.

I was thinking about the air exchange thing too... doubling your air exchange rate probably won't affect CO2, just temps. Air, and water follow the same general absorption principles, higher concentration -> greater absorption due to lack of competition/increased exposure. Even if you had your grow box pressurized, with 3x the volume of air in the box, ppm of co2 is the same.

luckily i have no concern with temps up here. lows in the summer are never above 50, usually 45. and i will run the lights at night. I am actually thinking of relocating my ballast inside the box to keep the temps up. I dont have it fully sealed and vented yet, just a 1000w MH in the box, lined with poly, with the fan set up on the floor and ducting laying on the ground poking out. and the temps are at 80, ambient garage temp 70.

anyway... i kinda feel like a bit of a fool for causing confusion. thanks for all the help. ill post what I set up when its done.

peace