Probably a silly question , but does a thousand watt light put out the same heat as ,say , a portable floor heater with same wattage...many smaller heaters put out 1500 watts...just wondering ..trying to judge kind of heat that will accompany the big lights..have close to a 5x6 area .. will just be winter/early spring grow and dont want to spend a lot on having to exit a lot of heat ..will be coldest during the veg. period coming up .. maybe 2 or 3 weeks ..should be easier to manage Im thinking during during 12/12 flower as only on half as long...soil grow ..want to get by using a good bathroom fan... is that possible...
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concerning lights and amount of heat
- Thread starter rasta man
- Start date
So I have been looking into duct fans and found out I can use one of these cheaper fans instead of the expensive ones.... along with a homemade carbon filter I think I will go with that..the duct fan moves 240 cfm compare to 50 for bathroom fan..about 25 bucks for the fan...so thanks for the replies ... guy said he uses the fan round the clock and only uses about $3 a month in electric..so if anyone else is wondering go with a duct fan and homemade carbon filter unless you have the xtra money for the fancy stuff..
Ehh..
Unless the bathroom fan is free I wouldn't bother. They aren't designed to work under load or continuously, both of which are requirements for our purpose.
Check out the can-fan website, they have a chart for CFM reduction from carbon cans. Your 240CFM is going to drop much more than a proper inline.
There are plenty of threads here where growers have done just what you're proposing. The results are lacklustre as a whole.
A light wouldn't be a light if it put out the same heat watt for watt as a heater.
3-4k BTU per 1000w bulb is the standard guesstimate.
Unless the bathroom fan is free I wouldn't bother. They aren't designed to work under load or continuously, both of which are requirements for our purpose.
Check out the can-fan website, they have a chart for CFM reduction from carbon cans. Your 240CFM is going to drop much more than a proper inline.
There are plenty of threads here where growers have done just what you're proposing. The results are lacklustre as a whole.
A light wouldn't be a light if it put out the same heat watt for watt as a heater.
3-4k BTU per 1000w bulb is the standard guesstimate.
havent got to the canfan site yet.. but checked out and found a thousand watt heater would put out 3400 btu`s..that sounds like the same thing to me...watts times 3.41..?? equal btu..at least thats what I found..sounds like a watt is a watt no matter how its made..but I never looked too deep..could be more to it..
I mentioned the can fan website merely to show the drop in CFM under load. Something to consider when sizing for ventilation.
Well there's another gap in my knowledge. I was under the impression roughly half the wattage of a bulb went towards producing heat. But your numbers are correct, hence that can not be so. Suppose I could have put two and two together before.
Well here's hoping someone clears the air with a helpful post. Googling isn't proving useful so far.
Well there's another gap in my knowledge. I was under the impression roughly half the wattage of a bulb went towards producing heat. But your numbers are correct, hence that can not be so. Suppose I could have put two and two together before.
Well here's hoping someone clears the air with a helpful post. Googling isn't proving useful so far.
If the lights you are buying are breaking the bank I would suggest starting with a 400 or 600 watt at the largest. 1000 watt bulbs are a much more challenging to keep cool and pretty much require a decent exhaust of some sort.
Smaller bulbs are much easier to work with in the learning period.
Then later if you go bigger they can become vegging lights.
Smaller bulbs are much easier to work with in the learning period.
Then later if you go bigger they can become vegging lights.
Not that I am overly lazy, but if I wait quite often someone better with words than I can give a less confusing answer.
HID and radiant heaters heat the surroundings by striking them with energy. The light hits the wall and the wall starts heating up until the input matches how much the wall can radiate. A well insulated wall can have a hundred degrees differential inside to outside.
My 84 F budroom has an outside wall with -44 degrees on the other side. A sensor on the wall itself reads 58 F.
During the summer with an outside temperature of 74 the wall will read 87.
To cool the room heated by radiant heat cool air must be brought in contact with the heated surfaces. Everything the light touches has to have air to cool it back off. This is a pretty inefficient way to get rid of heat.
The light heats up the wall, table, floor, plant, and any equipment in the room. Air has to be brought in and held in contact until the heat is transferred. Not enough air and not enough heat can be absorbed. Once absorbed the hot air must be removed from the room and cooled. Or it can be disposed of and replaced with cool air.
Heat changes are slow and wall temperatures have as great an effect as airflow, sometimes. Hot spots are common as are windy areas.
LEDs have the same heat content per watt as any other heat source but less of it is radiant heat. 90 percent of an LED is actual light energy which goes to the plant leaves. The usable wavelengths create chemical reactions with some waste heat. The lack of green, yellow, and infrared keep the leaf temperatures under what full spectrum causes. The heat created by the LED's wattage goes directly into the heatsink, which gets quite hot and can cause burns if exposed.
This heatsink is cooled directly by a fan inside an enclosed air channel. The hot air still needs to be removed but the replacement air does not have to be as cool nor does it need to be held in contact with the room and furnishings.
Even with the same amount of total heat being produced it takes less than 1/2 the energy and 1/4 the time to remove the convection heat from the LED as it does to remove the radiant heat from the entire room under HID.
It is the temperature differentials used in heat removal rather than the watts used in small scale operations most of us have.
HID and radiant heaters heat the surroundings by striking them with energy. The light hits the wall and the wall starts heating up until the input matches how much the wall can radiate. A well insulated wall can have a hundred degrees differential inside to outside.
My 84 F budroom has an outside wall with -44 degrees on the other side. A sensor on the wall itself reads 58 F.
During the summer with an outside temperature of 74 the wall will read 87.
To cool the room heated by radiant heat cool air must be brought in contact with the heated surfaces. Everything the light touches has to have air to cool it back off. This is a pretty inefficient way to get rid of heat.
The light heats up the wall, table, floor, plant, and any equipment in the room. Air has to be brought in and held in contact until the heat is transferred. Not enough air and not enough heat can be absorbed. Once absorbed the hot air must be removed from the room and cooled. Or it can be disposed of and replaced with cool air.
Heat changes are slow and wall temperatures have as great an effect as airflow, sometimes. Hot spots are common as are windy areas.
LEDs have the same heat content per watt as any other heat source but less of it is radiant heat. 90 percent of an LED is actual light energy which goes to the plant leaves. The usable wavelengths create chemical reactions with some waste heat. The lack of green, yellow, and infrared keep the leaf temperatures under what full spectrum causes. The heat created by the LED's wattage goes directly into the heatsink, which gets quite hot and can cause burns if exposed.
This heatsink is cooled directly by a fan inside an enclosed air channel. The hot air still needs to be removed but the replacement air does not have to be as cool nor does it need to be held in contact with the room and furnishings.
Even with the same amount of total heat being produced it takes less than 1/2 the energy and 1/4 the time to remove the convection heat from the LED as it does to remove the radiant heat from the entire room under HID.
It is the temperature differentials used in heat removal rather than the watts used in small scale operations most of us have.
Thanks for that...sounds like LED`s are a good option for summer grow...but that helps with the heat stuff... good info...
