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Compact SOG with CFL's

Boleman

Active member
this is the most badass shit I ever seen. I am starting me a sog grow.

I have a few Qs about ur grow. u got any pix of inside the cab.
also how tall u let the plants get befor u flip to 12-12.
and r they clones or from seed.

thx for some info on ur sog grow. :D 1cb.


If you top your plants at half the height they are during veg next round, you would have twice as much as an outcome in the same space. If you take a look at my under the reef grow, you will see the extreme version of topping and then threading a screen to get the most out of your space.

So same as saying, when you top the plants at 4-5 inches high, all the tiny segments will grow into an individual flower site, so instead of having 4 total colas, you would have 16, and they would still weigh out.

I hope this as taken constructively, as you have some beautiful plants.
 

tSoG

New member
this thread makes me happy, and sad.

happy, for the potential, the ideas, the creative thinking of some individuals....

sad, for the hostility, the stubbornness of some closed minded individuals...


interesting off topic reading, although I'm not particularly fond of off topic chat, I'm impressed with the quality of subject matter. interesting learning about wood gas, sea salt, and the like...

living off grid is a commitment, and while car batteries are definitely not ideal, they do the job, for some, for a while. I work with 125v DC battery banks occasionally, usually 2v cells sometimes 6v 600-2000Ah, batteries in place for 10-40 years in some cases, with proper maintenance... some, well, they get abused, and don't last so long...

my big concern though is chesaw. I know it's a homegrown strain the doc made himself, but IIRC, there was some chat about seeding out. I'd love to see it show up on seedbay, or the like.
 

311devon

Member
Has ANYONE else been able to duplicate even the low end of Doc's yield of 21 grams per week using something like 210 watts of CFL in 2.33 sq. ft. ?

I run a DrBud style sog and have since feb. i'm running 7 x 42w in 2.7ft. I am fully organic using a modified version of LC's #1 mix from the organics for beginners forum. I supplement with guano teas at every watering. My biggest cut yet was 44g wet and that was done with a fungus gnat infestation going at the same time. I havent gotten the nutes dialed in fully yet,the girls are running out of mg about 5 weeks in. So once the gnats are gone and the nute program fully worked out i think 84g wet per cut(approx 21g dry) is possible with the right strain. I think about 65g wet will be the norm.
 

justwatchin

Member
Yes. I am currently averaging about 5.1g per plant. I harvest approximately 4 plants per week. Feel free to do the math.

I'm using 2.01 sq ft and 252w of CFL.

Here's a sample harvest:





My boy Tilt has an Entertainment Center with PLLs and he regularly pulls MORE than the doc.

(I'm in the process of designing/building my PLL cab now. I fully expect to outperform my CFL results by a comfortable margin.)


I think, and I could be wrong, that most micro growers focus on the wrong aspects of the grow. I have done it also..

I have two set ups. A 400w on mover and A micro with a 14" * 24" space where I run "experiments". The micro which is not much bigger than the Dr. G's space has 8x42W ww bulbs crammed as much as possible to one side under an acrylic sheet from home depot for $8 it has a regular inline duct booster cooling all those lights with ease(1* above ambient 2* when the uvb's come on for 5hrs of 11 after 2hrs after lights on). They stretch 20" of the 24 then I've screwed 2x18" repti-glow 10.0 directly under and into the acrylic sheet and 1more 42W above clones when the first go in 7" down from the acrylic sheet(acrylic sheets are no longer made uvb penetrable unless specially made). A separate ducting from lights coming from the flowering area to a cardboard box with a centrifugal on dimmer on top of a can-filter surrounded by thick 3mm black garbage bag. I grow in coco using the rez-ipe. I use 16.9ml neste bottles, cut down to 16ml using the same amount as the gatorade bottle but taller. This allows me to fit 5x9 in that space, but i put 4 a week.

Couple things I've noticed. 1 take small cuts and as soon as they root. Let them root out the container until the hit the bottom then waiting for them to hit the right height, increased my average yield from 5g to7g a plant average.

I read red's ventilation thread and after separating the lights and increasing the size of the intake by 4 times the output ( in an attempt to move more air at a slower speed) I notice that my yield went to 9g average without me changing anything! I think that while the air was right the velocity of the air moving across my plants was too high causing the stomata(i think) to close, the plants to dry too fast between watering, and unnecessary stress on the plants. THANK YOU RED!

After re-reading Dr.'s thread you would see that the 21g plant was a revegged double header. If he did this by accident( or on purpose as he was eluding to before the heart attack) it can be duplicated on purpose. I've only now gone back to focusing on plant structure to try and recreate the double header without creating 2 stems on 1 plant.On one plant plant I've cut off all the fan leaves in veg a inch under desired start height(waiting for it to hit start height and re-develop fans). When I did this the budding sites stretched towards the top sprout which I left on and stretch was un affected and the yield off that plant was 13g.
:) I will try to get larger tops in other ways...The experiments will continue until 21g is hit! The strain I'm using is bangi haze and HB the chem pheno and happy brother pheno and SSH in the micro. Lots more strains under the 400w

My point is that one should focus on the basics first like ventilation and plant structure being the biggest focus before changing ones whole set-up as this is what makes you a better grower. and I think are the biggest things in improving my yield.

SORRY FOR THE LENGTHY POST! Will definitely report yields of the double header.

Edit: UVB florescent bulb grown plants are consistently more frosty and potent than my 400W even when I add uvb bulbs inches from tops on chains in the 400W, though adding it to the 400W did help. If anyone was wondering.
 

justwatchin

Member
Another thing I do, to thicken the center stem, is cause mechanical stress. The thick stems allow for more feeds to reach buds when watering I think (well whatever it does, it gives me fatter buds and doesn't need support vs. when I don't do it). I do this by gently applying pressure with my index and thumb to the stem every 2cm and rolling it between my fingers. I start at the bottom and work my way to the top. You feel it give a little, but do not collapse the stem or split the outer hurd! I've collapse the stem before and split the stem, it really retards the growth of everything above the collapse. And don't do it for plants under 5.5". What you are trying to do is cause a damage to the inner hurd. When finished the plant should have a look as if it has been over watered(kinda limped over). It returns to normal within a few hrs to a few days depending on the severity of treatment. if done on the 1st day of onset it works to slow down some of the more stretchier sativas, but i usually do it a a couple of days before onset to give it time to repair itself and resume growing. Yields are definitely increased in the micro and its even more dramatic in the 400Watter. I learned this technique from a grower called Allbie (schpelling) in a book he wrote. don't remember the name, but it works if done right. These cuts were the same age and height when this technique was done.
The 1 on the left yeilded 8g and on the right 13g. Sorry for the crappy pics as this was done a couple months ago for my reference and not for the internet
picture.php

picture.php

LOL! pics soon, I have to buy a camera and learn how to post pics

And I prune only once now at 0.8182 or around day 40 (experimented with pruning once in veg and twice in a flowering cycle and variations of each, didn't see that dramatic of an improvement for all the extra work) of a flowering cycle as this makes the buds denser, and less fluffy, further down the plant as it exposes bud sites.
This is a chem D pheno of the HappyBrother bx2 that yeilded 7g pruned once before the intake adjustment with 2wks left. (the super crop treatment was not done to this cut)pictures do it no justice as this thing was frosty as hell!!
picture.php

EXPERIMENTS WILL CONTINUE!!

EDIT: Will do a proper thread on how to do this once I get a camera
 
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Anti

Sorcerer's Apprentice
Veteran
I read red's ventilation thread and after separating the lights and increasing the size of the intake by 4 times the output ( in an attempt to move more air at a slower speed) I notice that my yield went to 9g average without me changing anything! I think that while the air was right the velocity of the air moving across my plants was too high causing the stomata(i think) to close, the plants to dry too fast between watering, and unnecessary stress on the plants. THANK YOU RED!

I had Red's input when I was building my first cab (the one in my sig) and I am able to keep temps at bay in my cab with 4" PC fans. My lights are in their own boxes with their own air supply and my plants have a separate fan pulling through a filter.

My intake is calculated to be slightly more than 4x larger than my combined exhausts.

I switched from soil/perlite to peat/sphagnum/perlite and my plants are loving it. I fully expect to exceed 9g a plant in 2.5"x2.5"x10" containers. (in 17"x17"x23" space.)

The more plants you cram into the space, the lower your plant average tends to be. If I put 16 plants at a time rather than 36 plants at a time, my yield per plant is considerably higher.
With 3 or 4 plants... my yield per plant might approach that 21g figure.
 

justwatchin

Member
I had Red's input when I was building my first cab (the one in my sig) and I am able to keep temps at bay in my cab with 4" PC fans. My lights are in their own boxes with their own air supply and my plants have a separate fan pulling through a filter.

My intake is calculated to be slightly more than 4x larger than my combined exhausts.

I switched from soil/perlite to peat/sphagnum/perlite and my plants are loving it. I fully expect to exceed 9g a plant in 2.5"x2.5"x10" containers. (in 17"x17"x23" space.)

The more plants you cram into the space, the lower your plant average tends to be. If I put 16 plants at a time rather than 36 plants at a time, my yield per plant is considerably higher.
With 3 or 4 plants... my yield per plant might approach that 21g figure.

My yeild has been going up with the 36plants in there not bc I used less plants. I've been using 36 4/wk since my micro started. The only thing I've changed is from gatorade to neste bottles. I use a dremel that I've always had to put 70 holes on the bottom @1min each bottle. At 45 all fit perfectly wall to wall bottle to bottle.
when i'm finish hitting 21g on a regular basis, I won't need the extra 9 bottle spaces for experiments and will run it at 5/wk instead of 4/wk.

All my plants are slow dried for 3+ wks in the dark before the scale or cure with fans that remain. To me I get more flavor with a slow dry. The fans reduce so much in size that they just flake off. The bud leaves (the ones coated in trichomes) rap around the bud and protect trichomes. They should not be cut, as they have a, mostly sweet, different flavor to the bud and the high last longer with a slow dry. Try it yourself.

Focus on plant structure and how to change it to suite your needs, then apply it to your larger grows
 

phrike

Member
I run a DrBud style sog and have since feb. i'm running 7 x 42w in 2.7ft. I am fully organic using a modified version of LC's #1 mix from the organics for beginners forum. I supplement with guano teas at every watering. My biggest cut yet was 44g wet and that was done with a fungus gnat infestation going at the same time. I havent gotten the nutes dialed in fully yet,the girls are running out of mg about 5 weeks in. So once the gnats are gone and the nute program fully worked out i think 84g wet per cut(approx 21g dry) is possible with the right strain. I think about 65g wet will be the norm.


Cool. Is that 21 grams dry per week ?

Please let us know if/when you hit that number or better.
 

phrike

Member
If you pay attention and maximize the pic of his 21grammer the center where 2 yellow leaves are, you would see that it was topped somewhere in its growth cycle. We just have to figure out where...
https://www.icmag.com/gallery/data/500/3008882_Gram_bud_grown_in_a_16_oz_bottle.jpg

:)

The doc hasn't told us ALL of his secrets, LOL.

Yeah, let's see that Chesaw on seedbay etc. and see who can achieve his feats...

And yeah, gotta have some perfectly topped reveg's for the docs #s.
 

311devon

Member
Cool. Is that 21 grams dry per week ?

Please let us know if/when you hit that number or better.

Thanks for the rep Phrike, much appreciated.

To clarify, I expect that once I get all the bugs worked out i'll be pulling 4 cuts per week, 65g wet per cut, approx 16.5 dry each for a grand total of 65g dry per week. It isnt going to be easy, ive gardened many different plants for years from roses to fruit trees to vegetables and this system is tricky, things happen fast in there. I'm patient, it could be a year from now. I'm happy with half that yeild so everything is esoteric from there.
 

justwatchin

Member
:)

The doc hasn't told us ALL of his secrets, LOL.

Yeah, let's see that Chesaw on seedbay etc. and see who can achieve his feats...

And yeah, gotta have some perfectly topped reveg's for the docs #s.


Is that sarcasm? LOL i'm a little blind sometimes. I don't know if ya ever grew a reveged plant but it does not stretch where it was cut in flower so I don't think that is it, if that's what you were implying. If not sorry...

Just a good, established root system, and yes topping somewhere in the cycle, I will continue to focus on PLANT STRUCTURE but.....
I'm still in test mode and definately will post results neg or pos.

IF it was done before it can be duplicated. The only way we can figure out new things is by doing!
 

phrike

Member
Is that sarcasm? LOL i'm a little blind sometimes. I don't know if ya ever grew a reveged plant but it does not stretch where it was cut in flower so I don't think that is it, if that's what you were implying. If not sorry...

Just a good, established root system, and yes topping somewhere in the cycle, I will continue to focus on PLANT STRUCTURE but.....
I'm still in test mode and definately will post results neg or pos.

IF it was done before it can be duplicated. The only way we can figure out new things is by doing!

Sarcasm ? Sorry, I dunno, was blazed as usual, LOL.

But I honestly WOULD like to see the docs Chesaw more widely available. That strain is part of his formula for success.

I STILL have to say, the doc's yield achievements with 210 watts of CFL in 2.33 sq feet of space, are still incredible to most who first hear of it. Those constraints and 21-42 grams a week dry ?

A few have claimed to have achieve roughly similar numbers, around 21 grams per week equivalent. But not many.

I read this whole thread some weeks back, and created a text file, with I think just about every good bit of advice, and most of the particulars of his grow. I'd still like to attempt his methods to see what yield I can get.

For me, time will tell.
 

311devon

Member
i think we should all keep in mind Dr Bud has a degree in Horticulture and decades of experience growing various plants. If anyone should have Rainman kinda prowess with a easily manipulated plant like ours, its a guy like him....:)
 

Anti

Sorcerer's Apprentice
Veteran
i think we should all keep in mind Dr Bud has a degree in Horticulture and decades of experience growing various plants. If anyone should have Rainman kinda prowess with a easily manipulated plant like ours, its a guy like him....:)


Yeah. That was my conclusion when I started out.

It is definitely possible to achieve really significant results with his method. YOu do have to be dedicated and meticulous to get the best out of your setup.

I'm still working on ways to maximize my yield and minimize my work. I'm a huge fan of submersion watering, though.

My average plant weight depends a lot on size of my container. My first run in 32 oz containers I got about 7-9 grams per plant. In 16 oz containers, I got about 4-5 grams per plant. (all being clones of same plant.) I've had better success since I switched from bubble cloner to jiffy pellets for cloning. (I think the pellet helps protect the new roots as you plant.) I've also noticed that my plants grow MUCH faster when in sphagnum/peat/perlite than they ever did in soil/perlite.

I'm sure once you dial in your environment, nutrients, lights and everything you can get to optimal. I'm also sure the Doc didn't get there on his first harvest.

He's still around from time to time. He checks this thread, though he rarely has time to post. I'm sure he appreciates everyone's kind words.
 

311devon

Member
i agree with you 100% on the subersion watering, Anti. It's extremely effective at cycling gases through the medium and damn near idiot proof. Dunk pot, wait for bubbles to stop, remove and drain. Beavis could pull that off when he is in cornholio mode.

Nice cab bro, well thouhgt out.
 
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