What's new
  • ICMag with help from Landrace Warden and The Vault is running a NEW contest in November! You can check it here. Prizes are seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!

Coco and Ph

Having some serious issues with a large amount of plants in coco. About 12 strains, Dosidos, Lemon Tree OG, Sour Diesel, White Fire Cookies, Sunset Sherbert and others.

Plants are all in 6 inch small pots which I always use for starters.

Medium is Botanicare Coco

I have used Mills Nutrients for the last 8 years and love it. However with recent problems I switched to CNS 17 for coco. Problems began with Mills and are persisting with CNS 17.

I have used tap water at this spot for 7 years, however recently switched to RO in an attempt to narrow down the problem.

Problems began when I installed DE Phantoms. I have used coco to start my plants before transplanting into 5 gallon smart pots with loose rockwool for a long time with 0 issues. Immediately upon light installation plants began to show deficiencies. I assumed light intensity was too much. It was, but problems persist. Lights are in one area 6 feet above canopy, in another 4 ft but those are set to 600.

Thinking the enhanced red spectrum coupled with the intensity might be the issue, I switched to 1000 Watt DE Metal Halides (Ps. They are awesome) Just be careful with them, not ANSI/O rated.

After chasing my tail with the lights for a week, i began to look at my nute regimen. I had always used the same amount from week 1 for plants in veg. In 1 month I would have 3-4 ft tall gorgeous ladies. Its been 3 weeks, my plants are about 16-20 inches tall and look like hell.

I incorrectly diagnosed an iron deficiency as a calmag deficiency, although saying that I do have rust spots in some places. What led me to iron was all interveinal chlorosis was at top of plant, not at middle/bottom which I believe would be magnesium.

I have learned more about Coco in the last 10 days then I ever planned to, it worked perfect for me in the past but obviously I had and have much much more to learn.

I did have a faulty PH meter. I have used Bluelab, Hanna, Oakton, honestly I go through 8-15 meters per year not counting probe replacements. I have not seen a consistently reliable meter yet. I always PH with two meters at the same time, to check for discrepancies. I got lazy and used one at a time for a week when one was reading incorrectly after calibration, and when I tested it alongside a new bluelab meter, the PH on the old HM Digital read 5.5 ph while the bluelab read 7.0. I am not sure, but I very may well have been throwing 7.3 water on my girls for 5 days.

I swore to myself this was the last ****ing time and went and purchased several Hach 138 EFSET meters. All I can say is I wish I had got them before. You can store them dry, there is no glass bulb to break and they can be cleaned so easy. I calibrated one, set it on the counter, came back 3 days later and put in calibration solution and it read 7.01, even the correct decimal point it was set at. I have never seen a meter not drift that slightly after hours, much less days. I know alot of people experience the issues with PH meters I have had, so all I can say is get a good EFSET meter, you wont regret it. This things pays for itself 10 times over saving just one PH screw up. Anyways I digress.

My specific question is regarding slurry tests. I water at 5.8 PH, 1.0-1.4 ec, yesterday I bumped it up to 1.5-1.8 EC. Yes I know that is high but I will explain why in the next paragraph.

My slurry tests tell me the coco is 6.7-6.9 PH and has a EC of 0.2-0.4 from over 6 tests of different strains! Canna recommends a coco medium PH of 5.8-6.2 and an ec of 0.8-1.2. I am so far outside these levels I'm thinking that has to be the reason for my numerous deficiencies.

To reiterate, this is not a run off test, this is whats actually in my coco medium. I did not precharge/condition the coco, I never had to in the past, seems like I should have.

I watered tonight with 5.4 PH 1.8 EC. According to the slurry test, my girls have no food in the medium and are at a PH where they cant process hardly anything. Am I on the right track here? I used to be one of the people on here who said coco was so easy, its why I used it for starting my girls after they rooted, but I am not saying so anymore. Rockwool I would have flushed and started over. Coco I have been told that is not an option.

Is it possible I have not filled the CEC and that coupled with my girls being with my girls being underfed thats why my medium's EC is so damn low?
 
Forgot to add, NO BUGS. There is not a spider or russet mite or root aphid living breathing walking or talking on any of my plants. They get a preventative drench of kontos for root aphids, Adept for fungus gnats and then a bi weekly rotation of forbid/tetrasan then pylon/sanmite while in veg only. The issue is def not bug related.

Grow room environment is dialed in. Besides the introduction of the new Phantom DE's, these rooms have run flawlessly for 8 years.
 

Mikell

Dipshit Know-Nothing
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I have yet to use a DE but many warn higher feed strength is required, which your slurry test (conducted with distilled or RO, I assume) bears out.

I would maintain ideal pH and continue at the higher EC.
 
It's funny how I said grow room environment is dialed in. It WAS dialed in for large mother plants. When I took those out and added a bunch of smaller clones/teens, the humidity dropped from 55% to 35% due to less overall transpiration occuring in the room.

Added 2 X 200 pint Ideal Air Humidifiers and humidity is up to 55-60% and they took off. It was 100% the humidity in my room/vs the leaf temperatures. For all those people saying VPD don't matter, well it sure did for me. I chased my tail for 3 weeks, concocted about 50 different nutrient recipes on different plants, different PH, sat and stared at root balls for 10 mins and freaked out when I saw a stupid soil mite move. And it was all humidity. I'll post pics of before and after when I get a chance.

Ps. Thank you for the reply Mikell, greatly appreciated.
 

DunHav`nFun

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
It's funny how I said grow room environment is dialed in. It WAS dialed in for large mother plants. When I took those out and added a bunch of smaller clones/teens, the humidity dropped from 55% to 35% due to less overall transpiration occuring in the room.

Added 2 X 200 pint Ideal Air Humidifiers and humidity is up to 55-60% and they took off. It was 100% the humidity in my room/vs the leaf temperatures. For all those people saying VPD don't matter, well it sure did for me. I chased my tail for 3 weeks, concocted about 50 different nutrient recipes on different plants, different PH, sat and stared at root balls for 10 mins and freaked out when I saw a stupid soil mite move. And it was all humidity. I'll post pics of before and after when I get a chance.

Ps. Thank you for the reply Mikell, greatly appreciated.
Glad you figured out environment means more than anything bro....People that have no clue and refuse to learn are doomed to repeat history time and time again....

I was taught about 70% RH all the way through end of flower by a krazy ass kanadian klown nicked Krusty , and I assure all here that was well over 20 yrs ago and there was no clue about wtf VPD was , but I was lucky in that I live where RH is 70-90% yr round .....that said.....

He had a background in the greenhouse industry and everyone thought he was crazy as fuck until they saw his 3lb plants all in a row runnin 10 KW warehouse setups...

Top colas the size of 3 liter coke bottles and guess what...Once I dialed environment with air exchange twice per minute using the RH levels I was dealt with in the Hell of the deep south WITHOUT CO2 supplements other than what`s inherent in the air we breathe as ambient ppms , my yields with 4 plants in 10x10 rooms settled at 10 lbs consistently for over a decade with only 3400 watts instead of the 50 watts per sq ft I`d been preached to about....and what that says is....

Environment means waaaay more than how much light you blast at their ass.....plus....

People that don`t know that plants shit out residual CO2 AND RH that wasn`t metabolized durings lights on during the lights off period in sealed rooms especially , are doomed to airborn nasties during late flower , and definitely with insufficient airflow around , under , and above the plants to prevent EXCESS transpiration....

A little lesson about the circadian rhythm of a pot plant from my old redneck farmers interpretation of more yrs than I care to remember....but....

In a dialed setup with high RH and proper watts per sq ft , the plants suck feedjuice and transpire it out as water vapor into the grow area....

If the RH`s too low , the stomata shut closed to prevent transpiration and hold all moisture inside the plant as a defense mechanism and stay alive...but....

With the stomata closed off , the plant`s STILL suckin juice from the rootzone to maintain plant moisture/health , but it has no clue it`s being fed with artificial chem nutes instead of organic mineral compounds the species has fed on since it`s arrival on Earth , and that`s where Gnome`s burnt tips came from with low humidity....and....

Anyone that doesn`t recognize the importance of increased RH levels during the life of the plant`s grow , doesn`t have a grip on their environment or they`d realize that yield and quality coincide when all limiting factors are eliminated....don`t get me wrong....

Dropping Rh levels as much as possible during late flower can absolutely help control airborn nasties IF you don`t use proper airflow or exchange during lights out over , under , and around , but never on the plants so as to prevent excess transpiration...., but ....

My rooms never dropped much below 60% RH except during winter for over 20 yrs with mid 80 temps and a/c set to come on at 86 , and my warmer crops ALWAYS outperformed my cooler ones , so IME , proof`s in the pudding....anyways....

My 2 cents from all those yrs....Environment means everything...bet on it....

Peace...DHF...:ying:....
 
Last edited:

mdgg4

Active member
Haven't figured it all the way out yet but I've experienced the exact things DHF says. My personal experience cooler temps low humidity=small colas. High humidity mid 80's temp and my colas are thick as colas, the soda bottles I mean.
 

Low Humdity



60-65% Humidity 2 days later. Leaves all started pointing straight up and new growth coming in nice and green

Will get some close ups of how well they've healed in a week or so.
 

oldbean

Member

Kiva

New member
DHF

The question I have is about this comment you wrote:
"People that don`t know that plants shit out residual CO2 AND RH that wasn`t metabolized durings lights on during the lights off period in sealed rooms especially , are doomed to airborn nasties during late flower , and definitely with insufficient airflow around , under , and above the plants to prevent EXCESS transpiration...."

I just finished building my room and have noticed that my CO2 is climbing in the lights off period just as you wrote and thats normal. Actually the last time I injected CO2 was one time in since late Saturday night when I transplanted and as you can see the CO2 just lingers. The little line at the bottom of the line graph is the time it injected CO2 and the ppm amounts are far to the right.
picture.php


The plants are vegging right now but my concern is in the way my room is holding CO2 and your comment has me thinking I need to develop a way to extract the air from room during flower/lights off or I will have problems since I am able to track and have some visibility as to what VPD my room has and will be experimenting for the first time with high temps/high RH.
The software I use translates in millibars its the light pink line graph and the amounts read top to bottom slightly to the left of the ppm amounts on the chart. (i know, I know we all have it waaay to easy these days lol)
picture.php


Were you removing all the air out of the room or just small amounts every two minutes?

my room is 12x12 and I only have two 8' blizzard oscillating fans with a stationary one on the back wall. Do you recommend having crazy fan action and should they ever blow onto the canopy or just blow air all over the room like crazy?
 

DunHav`nFun

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
DHF

The question I have is about this comment you wrote:

I just finished building my room and have noticed that my CO2 is climbing in the lights off period just as you wrote and thats normal. Actually the last time I injected CO2 was one time in since late Saturday night when I transplanted and as you can see the CO2 just lingers. The little line at the bottom of the line graph is the time it injected CO2 and the ppm amounts are far to the right.
View Image

The plants are vegging right now but my concern is in the way my room is holding CO2 and your comment has me thinking I need to develop a way to extract the air from room during flower/lights off or I will have problems since I am able to track and have some visibility as to what VPD my room has and will be experimenting for the first time with high temps/high RH.
The software I use translates in millibars its the light pink line graph and the amounts read top to bottom slightly to the left of the ppm amounts on the chart. (i know, I know we all have it waaay to easy these days lol)
View Image

Were you removing all the air out of the room or just small amounts every two minutes?

my room is 12x12 and I only have two 8' blizzard oscillating fans with a stationary one on the back wall. Do you recommend having crazy fan action and should they ever blow onto the canopy or just blow air all over the room like crazy?
My big plant rooms had wall fans above and below the plants all on opposite walls .....

Intake on the floors with wall fans on the opposite wall to push the air down the wall and another fan caught that and sent it to the next corner where the last fan blew back toward the fresh air intake....

Exhaust went the exact opposite footprint on the ceilings to create a vortex of moving air toward the last corner opposite the intake with a vortex inline fan and carbonaire scrubber suckin hot stank air outta the room to be remixed with lung room air along with the lights off air from the fliproom next door that kept humidity at constant levels with very little dehuey useage using air exchange twice per minute not every 2 minutes Kiva....anyways....

I`ve said this in numerous threads over the yrs about commercial growers not "fessing up" to exhausting excess CO2 and RH during lights off to prevent late flower crop failure with their so-called sealed rooms , but trust me it`s better to be pro-active and prepared than re-active and play catch up .....and lastly....

Keep CO2 ppm`s in the 750-900 pm range and you`ll be amazed how much your graphs will level out with far less excess being expelled during lights out , but RH will always be higher at night with lights off , thus the need for constant airflow even if you run completely sealed with a dehuey on high to keep up during late bloomage.....aight...

Don`t post much these days due to trolls , but pm`s are always open once you have enough posts to do so Kiva...was just lucky I saw your post in one of a very few threads I`ve posted in awhile....Hell..... Start a thread so other folks can learn howta do things right and I`ll try to help best I can....

Peace.....DHF.... :ying:.....
 
Humidity helped for about 2 weeks. It was a far larger problem. After many months of chasing phantom problems, trying 10 different nute lines, changing entire setups, we sent samples to a lab and it was/is Fusarium spp. Be careful folks. This disease is pretty e**in horrible. Be very careful who you get clones from. There really isn't a cure for fusarium. Once a plant has it, it is forever stunted and that's best case scenario. Have tried everything, Chemical to Biological and combinations of both. Empress Intrisnic, Heritage, Cleary's 3336, Cap's Bennies, you name it, we tried it. Ended up tossing more plants then I care to mention on here. Am starting a new thread to detail how/if we end up beating it. Hopefully it works.
 
Humidity helped for about 2 weeks. It was a far larger problem. After many months of chasing phantom problems, trying 10 different nute lines, changing entire setups, we sent samples to a lab and it was/is Fusarium spp. Be careful folks. This disease is pretty e**in horrible. Be very careful who you get clones from. There really isn't a cure for fusarium. Once a plant has it, it is forever stunted and that's best case scenario. Have tried everything, Chemical to Biological and combinations of both. Empress Intrisnic, Heritage, Cleary's 3336, Cap's Bennies, you name it, we tried it. Ended up tossing more plants then I care to mention on here. Am starting a new thread to detail how/if we end up beating it. Hopefully it works.


Spreads to others?
 
I started a topic detailing its symptoms and spread. And yes it spreads to healthy plants in minutes, symptoms are visible within 3 days (overall loss of vigor/deficiencies/red or tan roots/stem discoloration)
 

DunHav`nFun

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
I started a topic detailing its symptoms and spread. And yes it spreads to healthy plants in minutes, symptoms are visible within 3 days (overall loss of vigor/deficiencies/red or tan roots/stem discoloration)

That sux bro.....Good luck and hope all turns around soon....

Peace....DHF....:ying:....
 
Thanks man, this pathogen is a real bitch for sure. Had a long conversation with the lab tech who performed the diagnosis. Apparently fusarium root and crown rot is very common in cannabis, he said he gets 10-20 results with the pathogen in this specific crop every week. The fusarium wilt variety he said he had only seen on cannabis 3 times in the last 7 years.
 
Apparently fusarium has many different strains and most are very host specific (Certain species of plant). He said the fusarium wilt variety was 100% genetically modified to target cannabis, then he went into a bunch of very technical speak about why, but that was interesting. Luckily we don't have that one. Guess things could always be worse lol
 
Top