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CO2 Tweaking

Kilbud

Member
I just got my Gen1E burner up and running. I'm trying to get the room sealed up as good as possible.

I was wondering what's the ideal on vs off time is for the CO2 burner?

I will time out tonight what mine is running at after I do some more sealing on the room.

Help this newbie get it right. Here's some photos:

Room drawing



Build out of CO2 burner.















Any info you could provide would help a lot.

Thanks all, KB
 
Kilbud said:
I just got my Gen1E burner up and running. I'm trying to get the room sealed up as good as possible.

I was wondering what's the ideal on vs off time is for the CO2 burner?

I will time out tonight what mine is running at after I do some more sealing on the room.

Help this newbie get it right. Here's some photos:

Room drawing



Build out of CO2 burner.















Any info you could provide would help a lot.

Thanks all, KB

I have the exact same CO2 monitor/controller (CAP PPM-3). Set that bitch to 1500 PPMs and then set your CO2 generator to run during the entire lights on cycle.

CO2 is the ultimate shit. :rasta:
 

Kilbud

Member
CO2

CO2

Are you using a burner or tanks?

I know I can set to 1500 PPM and all is well, but there's 2 other factors.

I live in the desert and it's a 100+ degrees for 4 months and I would like to use my burner as little as possible to achieve 1500 PPM. That's why I'm trying to figure out burn times. I want to get my room as effiecent as possible.

I have my mini split so cooling the rooms not a problem, but there's electricity usage and burning through propane fuel. I'm sum what of an activist for the enviornment and don't want to waste fuel and electricity. At the same time I don't want to waste my time trying to seal a room when 3 hours work relates to 20 seconds of burn time.

I'm just trying to get an idea of how long the burner should be running in a 438 cubic ft room. I guess this issues not that important "it is what it is"

More importantly:

Is it natural after the burner goes off to have the PPM meter ramping down steadily till 1450 when it kicks back on. Is that the plants sucking up the CO2 or am I leaking big time?

Any imput from you CO2 users would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, KB
 
Kilbud said:
Are you using a burner or tanks?

I know I can set to 1500 PPM and all is well, but there's 2 other factors.

I live in the desert and it's a 100+ degrees for 4 months and I would like to use my burner as little as possible to achieve 1500 PPM. That's why I'm trying to figure out burn times. I want to get my room as effiecent as possible.

I have my mini split so cooling the rooms not a problem, but there's electricity usage and burning through propane fuel. I'm sum what of an activist for the enviornment and don't want to waste fuel and electricity. At the same time I don't want to waste my time trying to seal a room when 3 hours work relates to 20 seconds of burn time.

I'm just trying to get an idea of how long the burner should be running in a 438 cubic ft room. I guess this issues not that important "it is what it is"

More importantly:

Is it natural after the burner goes off to have the PPM meter ramping down steadily till 1450 when it kicks back on. Is that the plants sucking up the CO2 or am I leaking big time?

Any imput from you CO2 users would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, KB

I use a 50 pound CO2 tank so my CAP CO2 monitor/controller is connected to a solenoid on the CO2 tank. I live in the desert as well and run my lights at night (cheaper and cooler). The tank lasts around 5 weeks and costs $22.00 to re-fill (18' x 10') room.

The CO2 dropping after reaching 1450 PPms and cycling off is a result of leakage and consumption (more leakage than anything) and is normal.

My PPM's of CO2 will drop maybe one PPM every 2 or 3 seconds until it hits 1450 PPM's and then the controller opens the solenoid to release the CO2.

I have my upper CO2 limit set to 1550 PPM's (figuring the average CO2 levels will be 1,500 PPMs)

No room will ever be air tight unless it is NASA.

The advantage to bottled gas is no heat but a pain in the ass to re-fill.

Those CO2 burners give off heat but you have that covered with A/C mini-split (doesn't use up your CO2).
 
Last edited:

Kilbud

Member
CO2

CO2

ThereIsHope said:
I use a 50 pound CO2 tank so my CAP CO2 monitor/controller is connected to a solenoid on the CO2 tank. I live in the desert as well and run my lights at night (cheaper and cooler). The tank lasts around 5 weeks and costs $22.00 to re-fill (18' x 10') room.

The CO2 dropping after reaching 1450 PPms and cycling off is a result of leakage and consumption (more leakage than anything) and is normal.

My PPM's of CO2 will drop maybe one PPM every 2 or 3 seconds until it hits 1450 PPM's and then the controller opens the solenoid to release the CO2.

I have my upper CO2 limit set to 1550 PPM's (figuring the average CO2 levels will be 1,500 PPMs)

No room will ever be air tight unless it is NASA.

The advantage to bottled gas is no heat but a pain in the ass to re-fill.

Those CO2 burners give off heat but you have that covered with A/C mini-split (doesn't use up your CO2).

Hey TIH,

I tried to use a co2 tank with a reg 1, but I ran through the tank really quickly. I knew I was going to get the mini split and moved to the burner.

My PPM 3 is definetly dropping faster in my room than yours, so I have some work to do sealing the room.

Thanks for the feedback :headbange

KB
 
Last edited:

Kilbud

Member
CO2 Usage

CO2 Usage

ThereIsHope said:
I use a 50 pound CO2 tank so my CAP CO2 monitor/controller is connected to a solenoid on the CO2 tank. I live in the desert as well and run my lights at night (cheaper and cooler). The tank lasts around 5 weeks and costs $22.00 to re-fill (18' x 10') room.

The CO2 dropping after reaching 1450 PPms and cycling off is a result of leakage and consumption (more leakage than anything) and is normal.

My PPM's of CO2 will drop maybe one PPM every 2 or 3 seconds until it hits 1450 PPM's and then the controller opens the solenoid to release the CO2.

I have my upper CO2 limit set to 1550 PPM's (figuring the average CO2 levels will be 1,500 PPMs)

No room will ever be air tight unless it is NASA.

The advantage to bottled gas is no heat but a pain in the ass to re-fill.

Those CO2 burners give off heat but you have that covered with A/C mini-split (doesn't use up your CO2).

Yesterday I spent the day sealing the outside of the room as best I can. Lights went on and I sealed up 2 known leaks inside the room. I measured the time it takes for the room to drop from 1550 PPM which is the shut off setting on the PPM3 to 1450 which is turn on on the PPM3.

Shut off to turn on time is 3min47sec.
Turn on to turn off time is 1min38sec.

The Gen1E is burning around 14 minutes an hour.

TIH, I think if you timed out your room It's performing better than mine for leakage because my PPM3 is dropping faster than yours is. I have a feeling I need to seal the lights better. I have an 8" Vortex pulling through the fans and I think there might be some seams in my lights or micro tears in my ducting which is sucking CO2 out of the room. It's not easy to check because the rooms full of plants.

Have a great Sunday,

KB :muahaha:
 
Kilbud said:
Yesterday I spent the day sealing the outside of the room as best I can. Lights went on and I sealed up 2 known leaks inside the room. I measured the time it takes for the room to drop from 1550 PPM which is the shut off setting on the PPM3 to 1450 which is turn on on the PPM3.

Shut off to turn on time is 3min47sec.
Turn on to turn off time is 1min38sec.

The Gen1E is burning around 14 minutes an hour.

TIH, I think if you timed out your room It's performing better than mine for leakage because my PPM3 is dropping faster than yours is. I have a feeling I need to seal the lights better. I have an 8" Vortex pulling through the fans and I think there might be some seams in my lights or micro tears in my ducting which is sucking CO2 out of the room. It's not easy to check because the rooms full of plants.
Have a great Sunday,

KB :muahaha:

Try smoking in your room and watching where the smoke is drawn. I had to use heat tape to seal my "sealed air cooled hoods". They are not as sealed as advertised. Duct tape and caulking helps big time for quick fixes. :rasta:
 

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