Co2 and exhaust. Was just wondering I am about to start a grow and was wondering about co2 and exhaust. Is there a point to co2 if I am venting my grow room. (roughly 300 sq ft) I live in a high heat area. Central cal so I believe my best option will be to in take from the window 400ish cfms and exhaust 800 cfms. to keep the air flow continous. I will also be running an ac unit in there. Would you guys suggest making it an airtight and not exhaust?
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Co2 and/or exhaust?
- Thread starter Marick23
- Start date
pray4pistils
Member
Well, can you control your heat without venting? If so, then you have the option to seal it up and run some CO2. If there's no way to keep the temperatures down to say... 85degF or below, then you have no choice but to continuously vent. Ideal would be more like 75degF, but CO2 will allow you to get away with somewhat more.
P.S. I wouldn't bother with carbon dioxide until you've got everything dialed in and your technique mastered. It only accelerates growth when the rest of the variables are correct.
P.S. I wouldn't bother with carbon dioxide until you've got everything dialed in and your technique mastered. It only accelerates growth when the rest of the variables are correct.
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badugi
Yeah I'd be worried about the summer, especially those pesky heat waves.
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yamaha_1fan
you cant vent and use AC. You would just be pulling the A/C out of the room.
Seal it and use A/C. use the CO2 or do an air exchange every hour.
Dont use the A/C and vent the room continuosly.
Make sure any venting is through a carbon filter
Seal it and use A/C. use the CO2 or do an air exchange every hour.
Dont use the A/C and vent the room continuosly.
Make sure any venting is through a carbon filter
Thanks for the replies guys if I knew how to give rep I would. Ok so seal the room air tight? (literally?) Do I need to exchange the air at all if using an ac and co2? If so at what intervals? Yes the summer temps here are killer. 110 days 95 nights... I am placing my order tomorrow so I need to get the exhaust figured out. Apologies for all the questions.
Another quick question. I found some used hydro equipment. The guy is selling them about 25% less than the online hydro stores.
I know I will need to replace the bulbs in a used digital balast. But does the balast wear out as well? He also has a used can 33. will that be sufficient for odor? I also have an ionizer that i can use instead.
I know I will need to replace the bulbs in a used digital balast. But does the balast wear out as well? He also has a used can 33. will that be sufficient for odor? I also have an ionizer that i can use instead.
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yamaha_1fan
if using CO2 and AC, seal that room up. No, you wont to exchange air if using CO2 and AC
I would not buy used equipment at 25% off store pricing, especially a digital ballast. Those things have so many problems, you would want an original receipt for warranty.
And a can filter, you dont know how much life it has.
And mostly buying used equipment is sketchy to begin with. Who is the seller, do you know them? too risky, buy new stuff.
I would not buy used equipment at 25% off store pricing, especially a digital ballast. Those things have so many problems, you would want an original receipt for warranty.
And a can filter, you dont know how much life it has.
And mostly buying used equipment is sketchy to begin with. Who is the seller, do you know them? too risky, buy new stuff.
Thanks Yammaha. I had thought originally that used wasn't the way to go. But after reading what he had I threw it out the window. You are correct of course. New equipment it is. Especially this being my first grow the more variables I can eliminate the better.
Ok seal the room. run ac and co2 1500 ppm? What is the best way to dispense and maintain that level? Tank and regulator? Is there any heat? I still vent the lights? (Sealed hood) Am I running the co2 24/7 or only when the lights are on?
Ok seal the room. run ac and co2 1500 ppm? What is the best way to dispense and maintain that level? Tank and regulator? Is there any heat? I still vent the lights? (Sealed hood) Am I running the co2 24/7 or only when the lights are on?
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yamaha_1fan
You will want to cool the lights. Its better to air cool the lights, then it is to run the AC. The lights will pull air from outside the room, through the lights, then out the room. This way, you dont pull out CO2 air.
For the setup, depends. A CO2 tank is easy and cheaper to setup I think. But it requires constant refilling of a large bulky CO2 tank with limited places to refill. CO2 generators burn propane or natural gas (depending on model) to crate CO2. Both create heat as they are actually burning fuel and have flame. Propnae is easy to refill. Have a spare tank, refill at home depot, wally world, supermarket etc.
I really like the Sentinel CHHC-1 as it controls CO2, AC, humidity and allows different setting for day/night
I have my room set to 85 degrees and 1500 PPM at lights on. Lights off, CO2 goes off, room goes to 70 degrees
CO2 only runs during lights on.
For the setup, depends. A CO2 tank is easy and cheaper to setup I think. But it requires constant refilling of a large bulky CO2 tank with limited places to refill. CO2 generators burn propane or natural gas (depending on model) to crate CO2. Both create heat as they are actually burning fuel and have flame. Propnae is easy to refill. Have a spare tank, refill at home depot, wally world, supermarket etc.
I really like the Sentinel CHHC-1 as it controls CO2, AC, humidity and allows different setting for day/night
I have my room set to 85 degrees and 1500 PPM at lights on. Lights off, CO2 goes off, room goes to 70 degrees
CO2 only runs during lights on.
Excellent
Excellent
Is there an alternative to using the CCH-1 to monitor? 500+ for this run isn't something I can do. Are there cheaper alternatives? I am worried about the temperature in the summer. I think I will use a tank and regulator for the lack of heat. The local hydro guy was showing me a bucket of co2 just throw it in the room and it releases co2 for 3 months? ANyone hear of it.. its 130 for the first buckets and valve 109 for the bucket after that. Should I vent the room at night? Would that be more beneficial to my ladies? 800 out 400 in?
Excellent
Is there an alternative to using the CCH-1 to monitor? 500+ for this run isn't something I can do. Are there cheaper alternatives? I am worried about the temperature in the summer. I think I will use a tank and regulator for the lack of heat. The local hydro guy was showing me a bucket of co2 just throw it in the room and it releases co2 for 3 months? ANyone hear of it.. its 130 for the first buckets and valve 109 for the bucket after that. Should I vent the room at night? Would that be more beneficial to my ladies? 800 out 400 in?
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yamaha_1fan
yes, there are other controllers out there. 300 is the cheapest I think.
Do a search on the buckets. I know they have been mentioned and I dont think the results were that great. Plus you cant control it.
No reason to exhaust at night. I have heard plants generate CO2 at night. Must be true because my CO2 goes up at night. If i run out of my propane, my room drops to less than 300 during lights on. When the lights go off, it starts creeping up to 500+
Do a search on the buckets. I know they have been mentioned and I dont think the results were that great. Plus you cant control it.
No reason to exhaust at night. I have heard plants generate CO2 at night. Must be true because my CO2 goes up at night. If i run out of my propane, my room drops to less than 300 during lights on. When the lights go off, it starts creeping up to 500+
In your climate, you will need A/C in the sealed room.
Air-cool your lights as effectively as you can--even if the air your are using to cool the light is 95 degrees, you can still keep a lot of heat out of your room, so that you reduce the amount of power you use for A/C.
Also, if you have access to a crawl-space, you may find air that is consistently cooler than any other air--as low as 75 degrees even on hot summer days. Crawl space air is usually cooler than outside in summer and warmer in winter.
Air-cool your lights as effectively as you can--even if the air your are using to cool the light is 95 degrees, you can still keep a lot of heat out of your room, so that you reduce the amount of power you use for A/C.
Also, if you have access to a crawl-space, you may find air that is consistently cooler than any other air--as low as 75 degrees even on hot summer days. Crawl space air is usually cooler than outside in summer and warmer in winter.
unfortunately no crawl space. So i'm a bit stoned lets see if I am following. Seal the room use ac and co2. 85 day light 70 night time 50% humidity. In take and exhaust the light seperately. Run ac at night to maintain 70 otherwise ok to vent room with fresh filtered air? use a scrubber. If I put in a regulator and tank is there an inexpensive way to measure the ppm?
Use the A/C to keep the room cool--85 when the lights are on, 75 when they're off--and to keep the humidity down.
You don't need to vent the room much, but I'm not sure exactly--not my thing. I believe people who run sealed systems replace the room air periodically, maybe once or a few times daily. After all, O2 starts to build up after a while. Plus, you can quickly discharge a lot of humidity this way--unless it's very humid outside. You'll need a carbon filter and a dedicated exhaust for this, as well as a source of intake air to refresh the room. Probably do it a couple of times each lights-off cycle.
Yeah--a tank, a controller and valve, and some muscle. You'll soon learn how many tanks--depends on how many lights and plants.
You don't need to vent the room much, but I'm not sure exactly--not my thing. I believe people who run sealed systems replace the room air periodically, maybe once or a few times daily. After all, O2 starts to build up after a while. Plus, you can quickly discharge a lot of humidity this way--unless it's very humid outside. You'll need a carbon filter and a dedicated exhaust for this, as well as a source of intake air to refresh the room. Probably do it a couple of times each lights-off cycle.
Yeah--a tank, a controller and valve, and some muscle. You'll soon learn how many tanks--depends on how many lights and plants.
