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Clones from a 2 week 12/12 period wont stop producing pistils
- Thread starter Bloom
- Start date
JOE CHRONIC
Member
Thanks, its been 24/7 and pushing 6 weeks, possible 4th gen, that matter what gen. it is?
Strain matter? I'm not finding anything really on this site that relates, again thank you.
Edit: also I did get a few very small seeds, but the clones were takin before the herm im sure.. i dont know what it could be, maybe toss them out and start a fresh batch?
I saved a male that did this. I remedied by cutting the plant down and tossing the flowering parts. New growth was and still is unaffected and flower free 
hope that helps
hope that helps
learned your lesson.. never take cuts in flower..
I think some strains respond worse to this then others though.. but avoid the hassle.
I once had a 'sativa' leaning F-13 that I could not get to shake the pistil problem so I ended up tossing it. ( didn't like the smoke anyways.. )
take cuts from the bottom before flower, or keep a mom
I think some strains respond worse to this then others though.. but avoid the hassle.
I once had a 'sativa' leaning F-13 that I could not get to shake the pistil problem so I ended up tossing it. ( didn't like the smoke anyways.. )
take cuts from the bottom before flower, or keep a mom
B
i had a PK and C99 start flowering in veg and it took months before they finally grew out of it. Weird.
Sometimes revegging takes forever. Once it finally shoots up some actual vegging stems, take cuts and you'll be good.
Sometimes revegging takes forever. Once it finally shoots up some actual vegging stems, take cuts and you'll be good.
EASTCOASTSEEKER
Member
I've reveged a blue sattelite 2.2 and a lapis mountain indica and both retained pistil as do the clones i made from them.
Whats the problem with showing pistils ?
Whats the problem with showing pistils ?
I've got a C99 reveg that's been shooting pistils for 3 or 4 months now. I cut it back and all new shoots are throwing pistils under 24 hr lighting. It's even been repotted in a bigger container.
It's a nice plant and I have no plan on ditching it. The way I look at it, a rooted cut could be put under 12/12 and it would immediately flower.
It's a nice plant and I have no plan on ditching it. The way I look at it, a rooted cut could be put under 12/12 and it would immediately flower.
Bloom and you guys who have reversion issues....Ive seen this quite a few times and have had it on different varieties grown from seed mainly...
But what it seems to be is a trigger which can be shut off but takes a lil tweeking..
Ive found what mainly causes this is a more balanced nutirent formula which gives the cut to much avail P in its early stage when it mostly needs N-K with a micro of P...
My solution was to use a non-P dom formula like whats avail in ANs MotherEarth grow tea which has a formula of 4-0-4....I add micros or micro but I mainly use this as the Base formula and it will in turn leave the plant no choice but to Grow in a veg state as theres no P to help it want to flower...
Cuts taken later in bloom are usually effected by both lighting changes and nutrient changes..So you need to adjust for that as well...
Perfect example is taking a budding cut at 4-5wks in bloom and getting it to revert properly...This is a 3-4wk clone of a bud which at about 4wks started producing new veg growth...
Point is if your plant is producing pistils beside the natural sexing node pistils used for sex identification located on the main stalk than you should alter its formula limiting P availability...This has a major impact on quite a few strains as some are well infused into the hybrids we run...
Ive seen it mostly in Blues lines, ak47 lines and a few others which are quite sensitive to P in the early stages and actually all thru their life cycle.....Hope that helps and try it...it might just work cause I know for a fact it does...
Another way to make a formula that would work well in this situation is like this...
AN Mother E Grow Tea(4-0-4)
PBP Gorw(3-2-4)
Alaskan Fish (5-1-1)
This combo make one of the best mixes for new growth when mixed like this...
80% AN-G.Tea / 18% PBP Grow / 2% AFish all combined to [email protected] or 5.9 at best....
giving a formula of aprox 4-1-5 which is perfect for the situation we talking on...In some cases you'll find yo can also adjust the K and use a more 4-1-4 or 4-1-3 with success as well...
I do add MaxiCrop or LKarma at times but its used in such micro amounts its not really added as part of the formula and used more like a vitamin enhancement at 2-5drops /gal at most...These also hold a high level of N and some hold as much P-K so be careful when you use as a Kelp supplement if needed at all....Good luck and hope it helps...
FOE20
But what it seems to be is a trigger which can be shut off but takes a lil tweeking..
Ive found what mainly causes this is a more balanced nutirent formula which gives the cut to much avail P in its early stage when it mostly needs N-K with a micro of P...
My solution was to use a non-P dom formula like whats avail in ANs MotherEarth grow tea which has a formula of 4-0-4....I add micros or micro but I mainly use this as the Base formula and it will in turn leave the plant no choice but to Grow in a veg state as theres no P to help it want to flower...
Cuts taken later in bloom are usually effected by both lighting changes and nutrient changes..So you need to adjust for that as well...
Perfect example is taking a budding cut at 4-5wks in bloom and getting it to revert properly...This is a 3-4wk clone of a bud which at about 4wks started producing new veg growth...
Point is if your plant is producing pistils beside the natural sexing node pistils used for sex identification located on the main stalk than you should alter its formula limiting P availability...This has a major impact on quite a few strains as some are well infused into the hybrids we run...
Ive seen it mostly in Blues lines, ak47 lines and a few others which are quite sensitive to P in the early stages and actually all thru their life cycle.....Hope that helps and try it...it might just work cause I know for a fact it does...
Another way to make a formula that would work well in this situation is like this...
AN Mother E Grow Tea(4-0-4)
PBP Gorw(3-2-4)
Alaskan Fish (5-1-1)
This combo make one of the best mixes for new growth when mixed like this...
80% AN-G.Tea / 18% PBP Grow / 2% AFish all combined to [email protected] or 5.9 at best....
giving a formula of aprox 4-1-5 which is perfect for the situation we talking on...In some cases you'll find yo can also adjust the K and use a more 4-1-4 or 4-1-3 with success as well...
I do add MaxiCrop or LKarma at times but its used in such micro amounts its not really added as part of the formula and used more like a vitamin enhancement at 2-5drops /gal at most...These also hold a high level of N and some hold as much P-K so be careful when you use as a Kelp supplement if needed at all....Good luck and hope it helps...
FOE20
Attachments
thats not true Huligun....50% is strain dependent by genetic expression...
expression and reaction are actually a 50/50 by botanical standard...
50% genetic to 50% environmental..So in actuality enviro can have as much impact as your nute line and method indeed...
FOE20
expression and reaction are actually a 50/50 by botanical standard...
50% genetic to 50% environmental..So in actuality enviro can have as much impact as your nute line and method indeed...
FOE20
indeed Milkyway....the old way to monster crop was usually removing the upper 70-80% of the plant and revegging a already flowered mom...When all the top growth is removed and a few starter nodes are left on the lower ends they will fill in sometimes 2-3x as thick as the original plant..They also will need more food and space cause they will be that much "bushier"..
But this is cause of the already established root syst and upper structure of the plant which is ready to feed multiple sites as often as possible...
Most plants and even from seed function as a single cola or dom stalk structured plant...But we as canna folk like to prune, train and super crop which helps they bush out...This has more to do with just bushing the plant and more to do with making it change for a single line Top down plant to a Bush down plant...
Canna is mainly top down meaning the main stalk and top growth get fed first...As nutes travel thru the plant it shoots up theu the stalk and then back down feeding all shoots that extrude from the main stalk...In a re-veg or bush type we work to stop this process and get it to equally distribute the nutes to all sites instead of being concentrated on a main stalk or cola...
Just like that small revegged bud shown its wanting to send out a dom single shoot to start...But in order to get it to bush out I would pinch that shoot often and force other sites to start forming faster..
Were actually talkin some very old info that has been used for centuries..This is in no way some method or trick i devised and is only a recap of old techniques..
Im glad it may help folks cause its kewl when ya really get a plant to work with you....and not for you....stay kewl
FOE20
But this is cause of the already established root syst and upper structure of the plant which is ready to feed multiple sites as often as possible...
Most plants and even from seed function as a single cola or dom stalk structured plant...But we as canna folk like to prune, train and super crop which helps they bush out...This has more to do with just bushing the plant and more to do with making it change for a single line Top down plant to a Bush down plant...
Canna is mainly top down meaning the main stalk and top growth get fed first...As nutes travel thru the plant it shoots up theu the stalk and then back down feeding all shoots that extrude from the main stalk...In a re-veg or bush type we work to stop this process and get it to equally distribute the nutes to all sites instead of being concentrated on a main stalk or cola...
Just like that small revegged bud shown its wanting to send out a dom single shoot to start...But in order to get it to bush out I would pinch that shoot often and force other sites to start forming faster..
Were actually talkin some very old info that has been used for centuries..This is in no way some method or trick i devised and is only a recap of old techniques..
Im glad it may help folks cause its kewl when ya really get a plant to work with you....and not for you....stay kewl
FOE20
There is a spectrum of plants that are photo period sensitive to non-photo period sensitive. There are no pure strains left really, not commercially. I am not sure that pure sativas are photo sensitive as they spend their existence in 12-12 lighting and still take forever to flower. So I stand by my statement that a plants reaction to photo period can very well be strain dependent. You can throw all that technical mumble jumble around, in reality all strains react to their environments differently. Some are harder to clone, some are harder to reveg and others do both with ease.
Even tho allot of what's avail is hybrid most of those are actually older well stabilized hybrids used for commercial production..Their very stable in actuality and why they have been sold as commercial seed...There is some base flower time adjustments between growing herb in a mild climate compared to northern or more extreme climates and the grower needs to make those adjustments to suit the strains needs..
Even tho ak47 is a hyb you still will not see a solid
Columbian, Mexican, Thai or Afghani stand out on its own cause its been selected as a hybrid and not specific to any 1 of those types..
Another consideration is whats known as Dutched which simply means they were bred and tested in a certain local and flower times are based on that...In the early releases of almost all lines it was a known fact that harvest times in Holland were 1-3x earlier than OD harvest in Cali..Growers need to make these adjustments to suit the region they are growing the variety in...Or have a indoor enviro that will suit it as well..
Non photo period?....Huligun were talking annuals..A type that seeds, germs, flowers and Dies within a Year or its season...True Annuals prevented from flowering is what makes them true Annuals and the concept of Vegging mothers should make this clear..Thus Photo period has as much to do with it as the genetics themselves..
These are flowers or plants that have a Life cycle...
Im not sure we can get into the details of the possible factors cause your limiting your view already...What was said is the normal reaction plants have to photo period..This is still only part of the 50% enviro relation that will show you the expression of the plant...The other 50% is the genetic make up of the plant re-acclimating...
Its not the plants function to fight its new home..its to acclimate and cannabis acclimates better then most any breed on the planet...Just because every breed doesn;t act the same there is no reasoning that says its genetically infused to display these traits and only if the factors were studied in a very controlled situation would it be possible to prove so...
Some strains are arid dry climate low water needing endless running types, some are jungle low light needing heavier moisture loving types and some are cold fast climate heavy eating types..When yo treat them all the same you get very inconsistent results...
Fact still will always be...what is expressed in your garden is 50 genetic reaction from the seed/cut and 50% response from the enviro(enviro includes - air, nutes, medium, photo period etc)....
And what you said is backward.....
"All strains react to their environments differently"....
A Strains "Genetics" react differently to the "Enviro" their placed in...
Your genetics differ and thus show diverse expression...When there is a negative expression its best to work with the plant to help it acclimate or find a better medium or formula..Not change the entire enviro to suit 1 type...
What your saying is if it doesn't grow well than throw out the genetics cause they don't suit the room..
Which is not he case as you;ll know that many growers grow both Indica and Super Sats within the same enviro but they control it by formula/method and Mainly photo period "Length" as Sats will run weeks longer than Indos and desire a completely different formula to reach full maturity....A Sativa cannot be fed the same or they will never want to stop flowering cause they need very little food thru their life cycle even tho its a long cycle compared to short season varieties...Theres also Indicas (Rhinos to be specific)that need to have their photo period limited at the end of harvest to 10 or 8hrs to get them to mature best..But this doesn;t mean we shut down the whole grow to accommodate this Plant...It means you pull the plant out each night only allowing 10-8hrs light...
The same consideration needs to be taken into effect when dealing with long running Sativas which as their formula changes from a N-K dom to P-K dom at the later part of their life cycle forces them to flower by a seasonal simulation by Nutrition as they use the residual N until its no more thru Fall season colorful flowering...Not photo period reaction completely on its own by far....and I'll stick by that as well......hope that helps and good luck in your theories..
FOE20
Even tho ak47 is a hyb you still will not see a solid
Columbian, Mexican, Thai or Afghani stand out on its own cause its been selected as a hybrid and not specific to any 1 of those types..
Another consideration is whats known as Dutched which simply means they were bred and tested in a certain local and flower times are based on that...In the early releases of almost all lines it was a known fact that harvest times in Holland were 1-3x earlier than OD harvest in Cali..Growers need to make these adjustments to suit the region they are growing the variety in...Or have a indoor enviro that will suit it as well..
Non photo period?....Huligun were talking annuals..A type that seeds, germs, flowers and Dies within a Year or its season...True Annuals prevented from flowering is what makes them true Annuals and the concept of Vegging mothers should make this clear..Thus Photo period has as much to do with it as the genetics themselves..
These are flowers or plants that have a Life cycle...
Im not sure we can get into the details of the possible factors cause your limiting your view already...What was said is the normal reaction plants have to photo period..This is still only part of the 50% enviro relation that will show you the expression of the plant...The other 50% is the genetic make up of the plant re-acclimating...
Its not the plants function to fight its new home..its to acclimate and cannabis acclimates better then most any breed on the planet...Just because every breed doesn;t act the same there is no reasoning that says its genetically infused to display these traits and only if the factors were studied in a very controlled situation would it be possible to prove so...
Some strains are arid dry climate low water needing endless running types, some are jungle low light needing heavier moisture loving types and some are cold fast climate heavy eating types..When yo treat them all the same you get very inconsistent results...
Fact still will always be...what is expressed in your garden is 50 genetic reaction from the seed/cut and 50% response from the enviro(enviro includes - air, nutes, medium, photo period etc)....
And what you said is backward.....
"All strains react to their environments differently"....
A Strains "Genetics" react differently to the "Enviro" their placed in...
Your genetics differ and thus show diverse expression...When there is a negative expression its best to work with the plant to help it acclimate or find a better medium or formula..Not change the entire enviro to suit 1 type...
What your saying is if it doesn't grow well than throw out the genetics cause they don't suit the room..
Which is not he case as you;ll know that many growers grow both Indica and Super Sats within the same enviro but they control it by formula/method and Mainly photo period "Length" as Sats will run weeks longer than Indos and desire a completely different formula to reach full maturity....A Sativa cannot be fed the same or they will never want to stop flowering cause they need very little food thru their life cycle even tho its a long cycle compared to short season varieties...Theres also Indicas (Rhinos to be specific)that need to have their photo period limited at the end of harvest to 10 or 8hrs to get them to mature best..But this doesn;t mean we shut down the whole grow to accommodate this Plant...It means you pull the plant out each night only allowing 10-8hrs light...
The same consideration needs to be taken into effect when dealing with long running Sativas which as their formula changes from a N-K dom to P-K dom at the later part of their life cycle forces them to flower by a seasonal simulation by Nutrition as they use the residual N until its no more thru Fall season colorful flowering...Not photo period reaction completely on its own by far....and I'll stick by that as well......hope that helps and good luck in your theories..
FOE20
as long as its vegging normally i would not worry about it showing sex... pistil growth can be a sign of maturity (ready to be flowered)..... as long as it is growing and not throwing deformed leaves a few pistils is nothing to worry about. ive had clones taken in flower that will show pistils throughout their life cycle with no ill effects. my two cents.
M
MrSterling
I don't understand the date mechanics behind the statement "1-3x earlier" in regard to harvest dates being earlier in Holland.
add more nitrogen.
