Bio boy
Active member
Based on coots and altered in red a lot of the notes at the end are from the website and are what I found too
Base mix:
1. 1/3 sphagnum peat moss
2. 1/3 aération (perlite, pumice, lava rock, rice hulls, etc.)
3. 1/3 HIGH QUALITY compost and/or worm casting
To every 1 cubic foot (~7.5 gallons) of the base mix add :
1. 1/2 cup kelp meal
2. 1/2 cup crab shell meal swapped for fish blood and bone 5-5-5 more ca less salt and more npk (due to neem sun)
3. 1/2 cup neem swapped for alfalfa due to partners health
4. 1 cup gypsum
5. 1 cup CaCO3 (oyster shell flour, dolomite lime, calcitic lime, etc.)
6. 4-5 cups rock dust per cf Rock dust should be super fine: the consistency of flour.
7. 1/2 cup frass for chitin and fungal food
8. 1/2 cup of bran for fungi and small npk
Web quote from recipie
“That’s it!!!
The key here is quality compost/worm castings. That is the LIVING part that makes this whole soil mix work. So it must be HIGH QUALITY. Water with dechlorinated water and you are set!! No pHing, no checking the TDS of run off, no cal/mag, no BS! And best of all it works fabulously in a SIP!!!
Notes: Clackamas coots mix is a great soil mix but in our side by sides we found that it is too bacterial rich and does not provide any fungal components. University of Oregon has found that 20% castings is about the correct amount to keep a well balanced soil. This mix also lacks a potassium component and thus lacks the ability to build flowers and reuse your soils without the need to remix.””
My addition Adele as my alterations
in flower I will Topdress with my compost which is a high comfrey high potassium compost currently being worked on by worms
I feed with ro water and use biobizz if ever needed , otherwise I foilar spray and use em1 or enzyme teas
Seems to be dark green full health currently lol gona mix another batch up for next plants though to check here see what I can do to improve
I get asked why bran
Bran fact : as well as fungi food
Wheat Bran is high in phytic acid, a saturated cyclic phosphate based acid. It is generally not absorbed by animals and hence over time has biologically evolved to be the principle way in which plants store phosphate (It is passed through the animal undigested and returned to the soil).
Soil microbes however are more than capable of breaking down phytic acid and making it available for plants to use. Releasing not only phosphorus but also a whooping 15% amino acids (by weight), as well as plentiful carbohydrates (50% by weight) this is a dream amendment.
Our special tip is to combined Wheat Bran with P-solubilizing microbes in a tea for the quickest form of organic phosphorus available!
You can also add 1/2 cup of wheat bran into your top dress mixture, or directly under your mulch layer each cycle.
Its overall NPK is 2.4 : 2.9: 1.6
Base mix:
1. 1/3 sphagnum peat moss
2. 1/3 aération (perlite, pumice, lava rock, rice hulls, etc.)
3. 1/3 HIGH QUALITY compost and/or worm casting
To every 1 cubic foot (~7.5 gallons) of the base mix add :
1. 1/2 cup kelp meal
2. 1/2 cup crab shell meal swapped for fish blood and bone 5-5-5 more ca less salt and more npk (due to neem sun)
3. 1/2 cup neem swapped for alfalfa due to partners health
4. 1 cup gypsum
5. 1 cup CaCO3 (oyster shell flour, dolomite lime, calcitic lime, etc.)
6. 4-5 cups rock dust per cf Rock dust should be super fine: the consistency of flour.
7. 1/2 cup frass for chitin and fungal food
8. 1/2 cup of bran for fungi and small npk
Web quote from recipie
“That’s it!!!
The key here is quality compost/worm castings. That is the LIVING part that makes this whole soil mix work. So it must be HIGH QUALITY. Water with dechlorinated water and you are set!! No pHing, no checking the TDS of run off, no cal/mag, no BS! And best of all it works fabulously in a SIP!!!
Notes: Clackamas coots mix is a great soil mix but in our side by sides we found that it is too bacterial rich and does not provide any fungal components. University of Oregon has found that 20% castings is about the correct amount to keep a well balanced soil. This mix also lacks a potassium component and thus lacks the ability to build flowers and reuse your soils without the need to remix.””
My addition Adele as my alterations
in flower I will Topdress with my compost which is a high comfrey high potassium compost currently being worked on by worms
I feed with ro water and use biobizz if ever needed , otherwise I foilar spray and use em1 or enzyme teas
Seems to be dark green full health currently lol gona mix another batch up for next plants though to check here see what I can do to improve
I get asked why bran
Bran fact : as well as fungi food
What is it ?
Wheat Bran is just what you have been looking for, a quick acting source of phosphorus with additional Amino Acids and K to help balance your soil, or address a phosphorous deficiency.How does it work?
Wheat Bran is high in phytic acid, a saturated cyclic phosphate based acid. It is generally not absorbed by animals and hence over time has biologically evolved to be the principle way in which plants store phosphate (It is passed through the animal undigested and returned to the soil).
Soil microbes however are more than capable of breaking down phytic acid and making it available for plants to use. Releasing not only phosphorus but also a whooping 15% amino acids (by weight), as well as plentiful carbohydrates (50% by weight) this is a dream amendment.
Our special tip is to combined Wheat Bran with P-solubilizing microbes in a tea for the quickest form of organic phosphorus available!
You can also add 1/2 cup of wheat bran into your top dress mixture, or directly under your mulch layer each cycle.
Its overall NPK is 2.4 : 2.9: 1.6
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