The GE 15135 & 15136 are cheap and available everywhere(NA, at least. Where else matters?). These timers will not save you in ballasts, but will save you from smart meter pattern monitoring of heavy usage and the initial/eventual high cost of part/unit replacement with commercial hydro store equivalents.
OK, enough foreplay. You need one timer for every 4 240v 1000w lights/ballasts, 2 for each room. You could wire with 12guage, but overkill here is just dead enough and provides for expansion/changes later, so get a 40amp breaker and 8guage to the timer and 12guage out to the 2 2 outlet box, one for each room. Do this for each set of 4 lights.
So, wiring goes… 40 amp breaker, 8/2(or 8/3 if you walk in and buy from Case De Pot) to the timer com and com 2, 12/2 from nc & nc2 to one pair of outlets in one room, 12/2 from no & no2 to the other room. Ground! Test!
Now the hot ticket, wire another 20amp breaker and 12/2 120voutlet to power the timers. This isolates the timers from the lighting legs. Make sure the dip switches are set all on for 120v. The coms are separate circuits, so it doesn’t matter that they are switching 240v. My 15136s have battery backups, but I don’t trust them, so I have them all powered through a ups. You can run the timer off 240, but you have come this far, why not be pro all the way?
Setting your timers a bit apart allows for staggered turn on and almost continuous draw, not a standard grow op pattern.
Why so few lights per big ass 40amp timer? The specs say 40amp resistive, but only 20amp ballast. They also say, “NOTE: If loads are connected to both NC and NO contacts, both contacts are derated to 67% of the above values.” That gives us ~2573W at 240v, so 2 1000watters.
These timers contain electromechanical relays which are accessible for occasional contact cleaning. Relays don’t last forever. At $60, throw them away and get new ones, or solder on new components, your choice.
Hteeteepee = http , no direct links, so cut and paste…
hteeteepee://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202788241 – the device
hteeteepee://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GE-15136-timer.html - great pics of the device.
I have only run the 15136 digitals, but the 15135 is the same with mechanical timing.
Cheap… modular… effective… available at Casa De Pot!(The bastards only have 8/3, not 8/2)
Sorry to those who need a more through step by step with pictures. I battled with this and have come to the conclusion that people who can wire 240v safely from the panel can do so with these instructions. I don’t want to be responsible for you burning/killing yourself or others.
Secure your wiring and run everything up high. I tend to go all dolphin style when water is involved, so I try to put everything as high as possible and I still get water on electrical stuff. It is a gift.
Please grow safe, have fun and get everyone real ‘effin high!
OK, enough foreplay. You need one timer for every 4 240v 1000w lights/ballasts, 2 for each room. You could wire with 12guage, but overkill here is just dead enough and provides for expansion/changes later, so get a 40amp breaker and 8guage to the timer and 12guage out to the 2 2 outlet box, one for each room. Do this for each set of 4 lights.
So, wiring goes… 40 amp breaker, 8/2(or 8/3 if you walk in and buy from Case De Pot) to the timer com and com 2, 12/2 from nc & nc2 to one pair of outlets in one room, 12/2 from no & no2 to the other room. Ground! Test!
Now the hot ticket, wire another 20amp breaker and 12/2 120voutlet to power the timers. This isolates the timers from the lighting legs. Make sure the dip switches are set all on for 120v. The coms are separate circuits, so it doesn’t matter that they are switching 240v. My 15136s have battery backups, but I don’t trust them, so I have them all powered through a ups. You can run the timer off 240, but you have come this far, why not be pro all the way?
Setting your timers a bit apart allows for staggered turn on and almost continuous draw, not a standard grow op pattern.
Why so few lights per big ass 40amp timer? The specs say 40amp resistive, but only 20amp ballast. They also say, “NOTE: If loads are connected to both NC and NO contacts, both contacts are derated to 67% of the above values.” That gives us ~2573W at 240v, so 2 1000watters.
These timers contain electromechanical relays which are accessible for occasional contact cleaning. Relays don’t last forever. At $60, throw them away and get new ones, or solder on new components, your choice.
Hteeteepee = http , no direct links, so cut and paste…
hteeteepee://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202788241 – the device
hteeteepee://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GE-15136-timer.html - great pics of the device.
I have only run the 15136 digitals, but the 15135 is the same with mechanical timing.
Cheap… modular… effective… available at Casa De Pot!(The bastards only have 8/3, not 8/2)
Sorry to those who need a more through step by step with pictures. I battled with this and have come to the conclusion that people who can wire 240v safely from the panel can do so with these instructions. I don’t want to be responsible for you burning/killing yourself or others.
Secure your wiring and run everything up high. I tend to go all dolphin style when water is involved, so I try to put everything as high as possible and I still get water on electrical stuff. It is a gift.
Please grow safe, have fun and get everyone real ‘effin high!
