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Cheap Nutrient Line for Commercial and Home Grows?
- Thread starter BillFarthing
- Start date
Yes it will work in RDWC as long as you don't use hypochlorous acid. Organic materials and UC Roots/Athena Cleanse makes biofilm.
As far as cloning, find a method that works for you. People think it's magic, so just find what works and stick with it.
As far as cloning, find a method that works for you. People think it's magic, so just find what works and stick with it.
been doing some reading on Jack's, I'm thinking the 321 with mr fulvic and mkp is what I'll do, Jack's seems to really stress the importance of the mixing order for 321, would the mkp get mixed after the 321 is mixed or would it go in with the part A?
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So you would go in order of solubility- silica, Part B (with micros), MKP, Cal Nit, fulvic.
cool the Jacks site has the 321 per gallon as 3.6g 5-12-26 mixed first then 1.1g epsom salt and 2.4g calnit last
I plan to add just .5g of the mkp weeks 4-6 and the silica and fulvic 5ml every other at transplant and flip through week 7, I will probably just grab rhino skin for the silica
will more than likely be after summer until I can run it but I'm excited
I plan to add just .5g of the mkp weeks 4-6 and the silica and fulvic 5ml every other at transplant and flip through week 7, I will probably just grab rhino skin for the silica
will more than likely be after summer until I can run it but I'm excited
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The tissue sample graph calls for a bloom boost week 4-6 of flower.
Fox tails could be from a few things- heat, too much kelp, or too much 660nm from LED's. Regardless, they look great!
But does that tissue sample analysis go for longer flowering plants as well..
I can’t imagine the pk boost being needed at the same time on a 9 week plant and a 11 week plant
If your plants bud:leaf weight ratio isn't shifting at this time, then the graph isn't shifting. It's your call if you think this is a feeding schedule though. It's tissue analysis.
Many would see this and respond earlier, to try and push the transition earlier. Then the next tissue sample would move the slope to the left. Not knowing the history of Bills sampling and his responses means we can't really see what the graph is saying. It looks very different with feeding schedules that bump P high only in week 1&2 of bloom to see the plant through, as an example.
It's a great tool, tissue sampling. You can't use somebody else's though.
Many would see this and respond earlier, to try and push the transition earlier. Then the next tissue sample would move the slope to the left. Not knowing the history of Bills sampling and his responses means we can't really see what the graph is saying. It looks very different with feeding schedules that bump P high only in week 1&2 of bloom to see the plant through, as an example.
It's a great tool, tissue sampling. You can't use somebody else's though.
It's good work. I have thought about putting in an analogue like a tomato, just in a corner, in order to get some material I can sample here in the UK. All information is good information. Using it properly is the key.
I would like to see these graphs week by week, with the feed they got listed in ppm's at that time. That would be something I could really get set in to. I did flick through a few times, but the work involved (due to my lack of familiarity with everything listed) would be time consuming.
I would like to see these graphs week by week, with the feed they got listed in ppm's at that time. That would be something I could really get set in to. I did flick through a few times, but the work involved (due to my lack of familiarity with everything listed) would be time consuming.
CannaRed
Cannabinerd
I have a bag of Avail 16 that got too humid and turned into a brick.
I was going to try to dissolve it in hot water and try to make my own GH Armor Si.
Any idea how I could try to get the ppm to match up? And what the ppm would be? My ppm meter probably doesn't go that high.
I was going to try to dissolve it in hot water and try to make my own GH Armor Si.
Any idea how I could try to get the ppm to match up? And what the ppm would be? My ppm meter probably doesn't go that high.
Hey I have a quick question.
I foliar sprayed caps ogbiowar brew, and I’m pretty sure I just have talc left over from the spray.
ive looked at it under the scope and it seems to just look like fine granules.
but for the sake of IPM..
im wondering..
If I use sulfur, then that limits what else I can play around with.
magic green supposedly has microbes, would that in a foliar help keep “PM” at bay..
I also just heavily defoliated. And I was thinking of spraying some powerSI, and I’ve heard mixed views on ic it’s even available to the plant via a foliar. But I figure it may help with the stress of defol
but would this also help keep “PM” at bay at all? I feel like I’ve heard of either silica or phosphates being used to manage pm in AG.
at this point I want to do what is best for my plants to bounce back from a defoliation. And also retard any potential pm popping up.
I defoliated so heavy as they’re going into flower in a week or so and I like to give them a week to heal.. these will also be going ape shit as they’re ECSD and another sour cut.
before
After
I had everything looking amazing, then I layed back on the nutes and I seem to be having problems again.
sorry for being so off topic I just feel like you may be able to help
edit:
did a very heavy foliar of powerSI and yucca extract.
.
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Legalcdn
Well-known member
I read a thread on 420 making SI.
https://www.420magazine.com/communi...r-own-silica-supplement-aka-faux-tekt.475960/
It looks like PM when I foliar with hard water. Just keep an eye on it and do preventative maintenance.
Silica helps with PM preventative. So does 10ml need or canola oil/10ml Dr. Bronners in a gallon of water. Be sure to shake the hell out of it and use immediately.
ledtime
Member
I currently use the Advanced Nutrients PH Perfect line in coco. With all of the extras it gets costly. I do like that I do not have to PH the mix.
How can I replace that line with this? It would seem that what I spent on one grow with the AN line would be more than 20 grows with the amount of jack's you get.
I'm very interested if you can give me the roadmap.
How can I replace that line with this? It would seem that what I spent on one grow with the AN line would be more than 20 grows with the amount of jack's you get.
I'm very interested if you can give me the roadmap.
Legalcdn
Well-known member
Road map:
Scale
jacks 5-12-26 or greenleaf megacrop 5-12-26. Chem gro has a 420 dry nute too.
cal-nit . Yara or jacks.
epsom salt (walmart.. make sure plain epsom)
fulvic acid
ph down
tds pen ph pen
air tight containers
search on riu for renfro nutrient calculator. This will let you figure out NPK ratios you would like.
its really cheap. Bill F. has a great site for everything.
http://opensalts.wikidot.com/
Scale
jacks 5-12-26 or greenleaf megacrop 5-12-26. Chem gro has a 420 dry nute too.
cal-nit . Yara or jacks.
epsom salt (walmart.. make sure plain epsom)
fulvic acid
ph down
tds pen ph pen
air tight containers
search on riu for renfro nutrient calculator. This will let you figure out NPK ratios you would like.
its really cheap. Bill F. has a great site for everything.
http://opensalts.wikidot.com/
ledtime
Member
I have just read all 24 pages of this thread. I'm seeing that Bill uses rice hulls in place of perlite with coco for silica. Cool.
I'm worried about is using the Mr. Fulvic in a reservoir that I clean and fill every 5-7 days. I have seen multiple posts about it creating a biofilm and possibly clogging my netafim drippers? What is the story there? Also, are there big ph drift that I'm constantly going to have to fix during the week with this approach or does it stay put?
If I can mix the jacks/cal-nit/epsom/fulvic in my reservoir without things falling out of suspension or clogging my drippers and I don't have to deal with big PH drift I'm absolutely down to switch away from Advanced Nutrients and run these. Will save me a lot of money.
Thank you for you input and help with this. Getting away from the premixed liquid fertilizer would be cool!
Mr. Fulvic is totally soluble, but is still an organic product. If you use a strong oxidizer like hypochlorous acid, it's going to create biofilm from that organic matter. I think the company would say to use as a foliar in veg/transition if using something like UC Roots.
Bro science at it's finest. Most cannabis growers use way too much phosphorus that either has to be flushed out or your flowers burn black. Skip the MKP. Use Homemade Hammerhead if you feel you must have a bloom booster. It's why I've posted the tissue sample results several times in this thread.
Bro science at it's finest. Most cannabis growers use way too much phosphorus that either has to be flushed out or your flowers burn black. Skip the MKP. Use Homemade Hammerhead if you feel you must have a bloom booster. It's why I've posted the tissue sample results several times in this thread.
ledtime
Member
Bill,
What in the regimen would be adding hypochlorous acid? PH down? Or is that part of the base fertilizers? Sorry, I'm not up to speed on all of the chemistry....yet. ;-)
