Ceramic Metal Halide (CMH)

[przcvctm]

I have (4) new (well, unused) 400w Retro Whites that I stocked up on years ago. One has something that looks like it oozed from between the glass and the brass then hardened. It's extends about a millimeter above the brass and 1m out from the glass and runs 2 cm along the top of the brass, if that makes sense. I haven't screwed it in to fire it up not knowing if it's a hazard or not. Thought I'd post a description of it in case anyone here has seen it before.

Another has what looks like a green ink or something that was originally in the dimple at the top of the lamp with some dripping down 2-3cm before hardening. Is this a factory marking of some sort and if so, what does it mean?

It's kind of nice to be posting about old school CMH. Camera is down, sorry.

 

[non]

yeah i got a bunch of 250w before they were sold out, both horizontal and vertical. i think i have 6 in total. saving them for now.

 

[Jhhnn]

I have (4) new (well, unused) 400w Retro Whites that I stocked up on years ago. One has something that looks like it oozed from between the glass and the brass then hardened. It's extends about a millimeter above the brass and 1m out from the glass and runs 2 cm along the top of the brass, if that makes sense. I haven't screwed it in to fire it up not knowing if it's a hazard or not. Thought I'd post a description of it in case anyone here has seen it before.

Another has what looks like a green ink or something that was originally in the dimple at the top of the lamp with some dripping down 2-3cm before hardening. Is this a factory marking of some sort and if so, what does it mean?

It's kind of nice to be posting about old school CMH. Camera is down, sorry.

Lamp manufacturers use some kind of high temp sealant between the glass & the brass. What you're seeing there has probably been there since the lamp was made. Sometimes a little oozes out in the process where you can see it.

I have no idea about the green marking.

 

[Pinball Wizard]

I'm still rocking with two old 400 retro-whites. Still excellent for vegging.


but, for flowering; I've gone to 1000 watt MH (4000k)
..

 

[7thson]

^^^ How old are your bulbs?

 

[Pinball Wizard]

^^^ How old are your bulbs?

I really don't know?...somewhere between 2-4 years

 

[7thson]

I really don't know?...somewhere between 2-4 years

I think the one I use is seven years old.Great bulb.

 

[willowz]

Just want to give a shout of the low price for the Philips 315w 98v T12 Clear PGZX18 Mastercolor CDM-T Elite Agro HID Light Bulb. It's spectrum is phenomenal and the price is at a huge discount. I'm guessing Philips is selling at a loss to gain market share here for these nifty light bulbs.

Cheers.

 

[willowz]

Just want to give a shout of the low price for the Philips 315w 98v T12 Clear PGZX18 Mastercolor CDM-T Elite Agro HID Light Bulb. It's spectrum is phenomenal and the price is at a huge discount. I'm guessing Philips is selling at a loss to gain market share here for these nifty light bulbs.

Cheers.

I want to revise this post by saying that the T12 Agro or "Argo" is sold at a lower cost and has identical specs as the above mentioned bulb.

 

[master shake]

I have (4) new (well, unused) 400w Retro Whites that I stocked up on years ago. One has something that looks like it oozed from between the glass and the brass then hardened. It's extends about a millimeter above the brass and 1m out from the glass and runs 2 cm along the top of the brass, if that makes sense. I haven't screwed it in to fire it up not knowing if it's a hazard or not. Thought I'd post a description of it in case anyone here has seen it before.

Another has what looks like a green ink or something that was originally in the dimple at the top of the lamp with some dripping down 2-3cm before hardening. Is this a factory marking of some sort and if so, what does it mean?

It's kind of nice to be posting about old school CMH. Camera is down, sorry.

I wouldn't worry about the extra sealant. The one I have right now has it.

The green dot at the tip means it is for a vertical fixture.

Part number on the box label for horizontal - CDM4000S50/HOR/4K/ALTO
vertical - CDM400S51//V/O/4K/ALTO

My first CMH I bought had the green dot, and I used it in my horizontal setup just fine with no issues. Just found out when I bought a new one that the green dot ones are for vert. Oh well, got one without a green dot now.

 

[yesum]

What is a good brand or place for a 250 watt mh system? Everything included. I want to veg and flower with it so I guess a lower kelvin like 3000 is better?

I looked at HTG and they have some cheap units. I think the magnetic ballast is more durable and will not create rf interference if that is a issue. 200 watts to 250 is about where I want to go for a 2x2' area.

 

[Pinball Wizard]

What is a good brand or place for a 250 watt mh system? Everything included. I want to veg and flower with it so I guess a lower kelvin like 3000 is better?

I looked at HTG and they have some cheap units. I think the magnetic ballast is more durable and will not create rf interference if that is a issue. 200 watts to 250 is about where I want to go for a 2x2' area.

I would give this some thought for a 2x2 area.


http://www.htgsupply.com/Product-HTG-Supply-2-Foot-4-Lamp-PLL-55-Tek-Lamp#

 

[yesum]

^^ Thanks for the tip. I already have some of those pll 55 lights in single reflectors which I placed in the corners of the tent vertically. Got too crowded and multiple ballasts and lines running around so I scrapped them.

I have a good LED now for overhead light but it is only 100 watts.

I had forgotten about this array of pll 55's. Good light for the money, no doubt.

Reason for wanting a different light is I might come across some real Acapulco Gold seed in the future and want an ideal light to complement the sativa. Have some other good sativa strains already and they might like that light better. The unit you linked with 10000k bulbs in it might be the light I need to kick them up a notch. They come from intense sun regions and hps is not gonna do it.

Not sure if my white LED lamp is up to it but better than the blue and red ones anyhow.

 

[Huckster79]

I bought the 400w cmh from htg and very happy with it... If they have the wattage you want I'd say go for it. I'm a newbie still but my mentor about shits his drawers seeing how happy n healthy my concubine is

 

[Drek]

Lamp manufacturers use some kind of high temp sealant between the glass & the brass. What you're seeing there has probably been there since the lamp was made. Sometimes a little oozes out in the process where you can see it.

I have no idea about the green marking.

The green mark at the top of the lamp indicates horizontal orientation I believe. Still a wonderful lamp for horticultural purposes.

 

[h1ghscore1]

has anyone found an efficient ballast to run the philips 860w? is my understanding that running them on your standard 1000w magnetic ballast will overdrive the 860 bulb by pumping it with the full 1000 watts of power correct? or does the bulb regulate the ballast in some manner?

 

[Jhhnn]

has anyone found an efficient ballast to run the philips 860w? is my understanding that running them on your standard 1000w magnetic ballast will overdrive the 860 bulb by pumping it with the full 1000 watts of power correct? or does the bulb regulate the ballast in some manner?

They're designed to be high efficiency replacement lamps for 1000w commercial core & coil MH luminaires used in industrial applications. They are not suitable for high frequency electronic ballasts.

The lamp is the load & will only dissipate the specified amount of power at the voltage supplied by the ballast. The only way to overdrive the lamp is to increase the voltage.

 

[h1ghscore1]

They're designed to be high efficiency replacement lamps for 1000w commercial core & coil MH luminaires used in industrial applications. They are not suitable for high frequency electronic ballasts.

The lamp is the load & will only dissipate the specified amount of power at the voltage supplied by the ballast. The only way to overdrive the lamp is to increase the voltage.

Thanks for the clarification mile high neighbor, im using the old fashion magnetic ballast just had a different understanding on how the ballast was driving the 860 bulb.

 

[MrBungle]

The lamp is the load & will only dissipate the specified amount of power at the voltage supplied by the ballast. The only way to overdrive the lamp is to increase the voltage.

I don't understand.... so if you are running a ballast at 120v... then switch your ballast to the 240 tap, and run it on 240 volts you wouldn't put the lamp into overdrive.... the only way to overdrive a lamp is to increase amperage....

P=IxE

 

[Jhhnn]

I don't understand.... so if you are running a ballast at 120v... then switch your ballast to the 240 tap, and run it on 240 volts you wouldn't put the lamp into overdrive.... the only way to overdrive a lamp is to increase amperage....

P=IxE

Not at all. Core & coil ballasts are usually multitap transformers. There are different windings for different voltages on the input side but the output voltage remains the same. On the lamp side the difference between an 860 and a 1000w lamp is like the difference between a 60w & a 75w lamp plugged into a wall receptacle. The only way to over drive any lamp is to increase the voltage because the resistance remains the same.

Capiche?