What's new
  • As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.

canfan/filter question

SMARMY ARMY

Member
just picked up an 8" can fan and filter. I plan on exhausting up into my attic/ crawlspace. Any tips on doing this b4 I start cuttin away at my ceiling.

I was thinking 1st drill a small 1" hole and then with a snake feel around to see if theres anything in the way. I wasn't able to find a hole saw big enough so the dude at lowes suggested a key hole saw. Does that make sense?

Do I really need to go up in the attic, cuz who know what is crawling around up there. If so just walk on the beams right? then remove the insulation??

Is a damper necesary? and do they make 8" duct clamps cuz I can't find em'

Thanks. PEACE!
 
SMARMY ARMY said:
just picked up an 8" can fan and filter. I plan on exhausting up into my attic/ crawlspace. Any tips on doing this b4 I start cuttin away at my ceiling.

I was thinking 1st drill a small 1" hole and then with a snake feel around to see if theres anything in the way. I wasn't able to find a hole saw big enough so the dude at lowes suggested a key hole saw. Does that make sense?

Do I really need to go up in the attic, cuz who know what is crawling around up there. If so just walk on the beams right? then remove the insulation??

Is a damper necesary? and do they make 8" duct clamps cuz I can't find em'

Thanks. PEACE!

Unless you are trying to remove heat, a CO2 scrubber really does not need to be exhausted to the exterior.

Get two 6" clamps and put them together to make a larger clamp - viola.

Walk on the beams in the attic or you will go through the ceiling.
 
G

Guest

I'm got the same kind of options, Smarmy, attic or crawl space. Let's get some details. Are you just wanting to exhaust hot air? If you have attic access, you can put your ballast and fan up there and reduce the heat of your space. I exhaust right out the roof vent. Whoops just saw you are referring to attic as also a crawl space. Is it shared with anyone? The attic is your friend. The bugs-spiders, aren't going to kill you right off. You'll have time to get down..hahahhaha Carry bug killer. Thereishope is right on the clamps. And where to walk. lol
 

SMARMY ARMY

Member
thanks. Yes I am venting heat too.
Also what should I use to connect the ducting to the ceiling. I found something from lowes called a takeoff, it has an adhesive on the ring to stick to flat surfaces and can be screwed on as well. Or is there something else that I should use, sometype of duct collar???
 
G

Guest

SMARMY ARMY said:
thanks. Yes I am venting heat too.
Also what should I use to connect the ducting to the ceiling. I found something from lowes called a takeoff, it has an adhesive on the ring to stick to flat surfaces and can be screwed on as well. Or is there something else that I should use, sometype of duct collar???

I simply ran my ducting from the fan to a roof turbine. I used a bungee cord and a nail. Low tech. I don't know what a takeoff is. Are you going to be venting out of the attic through a turbine or some other vent? KISS keep it simple sam. lol Are you going to put your fan and ballast in the attic? And how big a space we talking- grow wise?
Here's I did mine. I have a 6" vortex. I cut a hole in the ceiling big enough for the intake of the fan to sit down into the room. Attached an elbow and connected my filter. In the attic, running from the other intake (actually blowing side) I have ducting running a short distance to a roof turbine blowing directly out the turbine. I made a small hole in the ceiling where I wanted to make the hole. Stuck a pencil in it. Then I went up into the attic, found the pencil, pulled it through and used it to trace the outline of the intake. Then I cut it out. Simple. I'm old and pea brained. You're younger and smarter. You can handle it.
 
G

Guest

Definitely take a "look see" before cutting, there might be some wiring laying around up there. And Yes, the keyhole saw is still used and it is a lot cheaper than a Roto Zip. When cutting overhead wear a pair of safety goggles, drywall dust in your eyes can cause some serious problems.

TyStik
 
If you are cutting into a ceiling that has acoustical (popcorn) and it was built prior to 1979'ish, it more than likely has asbestos so wear a respirator (asbestos in the lungs causes cancer but then what doesn't?)

Also make especially sure the house does not have RADIANT HEATING.

To tell if you have this type of heating system, each room would have a knob or dial to control the heat coils embedded into the ceiling's drywall.

These heat sytems are sort of rare but they exist so heads up.

If you hit one coil, the entire heating system in that room will not work and it is expensive to fix. If your heat is ducted, then no worries. PS...radiant heat systems effing suck and are not efficient..... :cuss:

Once the duct is through the ceiling, duct tape the biitch in place.

No need to buy collars or sleeves unless you want to tits it out. Duct tape works just as well on both sides to secure in the duct in place.
 

SMARMY ARMY

Member
thanks for the replies . There is no radiant heating. And I'm not gonna put the ballast or fan in the attic.
I went up in the attic and found a spot to cut the hole. my only question now is what should i use to connect the end of the ducting to the ceiling. I bought these 2 things at homedepot. The first pic is a starter collar. I was thinking to drop this in from above into the hole, with the crimmped part down. ( just like the pic)I then want o connect another collar with a damper to it to the tabbed end or top part in the pic. Can that be done? if so how? or should I push it from the bottom and use the tabs and ring to hold it in place




I also bought this at first thinking I can just attach it to the ceiling,but I dont see any way to connect the other duct with the damper




This all this ventilation stuff gives me a headache.

All I want is an 8" round duct to come down about 4"-6" inches from the ceiling so I can connect my flex duct to it and go up about a foot ino the attic with a damper at the end. Can someone tell me what I should be looking for?
Thanks. PEACE!
 
G

Guest

In your top photo if it is the one penetrating the ceiling that you wish to extend it should do just fine as it is. Notice the bulge around the Starter Collar. above the crimp? Slip your flex duct over the bulge and secure it there with a hose clamp. The ceiling is only 1/2 or 5/8 inch thick and you will have about 3 inches to play with.

Enjoy,

TyStik
 
G

Guest

Make sure the bulge is on the attic side of the hole. Make sure the hole is barely large enough to fit the connector/elbow through from the attic side. This set up will hold a lot of weight trying to pull that piece through that hole. You really only need a few inches sticking through the ceiling to attach ducting to. Metal tape is very strong. You can always use a connector or elbow on the flower/veg room side attached with 3 self tapping sheet metal screws. Lightly caulk the piece going through hole from the attic side. Be careful of using caulk on the flower/veg room side as metal tape will not stick to silicone caulk. Leave a little space at the ceiling and the metal tape will seal the gap.

Metal tape is your friend. It will not stick to caulk though. Any inline fans should be hung by bungees so all weight is relieved by the bungees which will also soak up any vibration from the fans.

Something like that...
 
B

Boxy Brown

I just cut a hole in my ceiling to the right diameter with a sawzall (wearing both eye and lung protection), pushed all the insulation away from inside my house (attic entrance is at other end of house + attic is 160ºF) using my hands and a hair dryer to blow the stuff I couldn't reach away, I then attached the appropriate size flange with screws and calking.



22381DSC01271.JPG



Iv since added a backdraft damper to prevent any hot air from coming back down into my home when the fan is off, also as said be careful with old drywall (like mine) being that it contains asbestos.
 

SMARMY ARMY

Member
Thanks everyone I think I got it now. Like usual, overthinking it.

Now the flange for the filter. I know I'm supposed to use the self tapping screws. does that mean I can drill them right in or Should I make a pilot hole? If so Do i need a special bit?
Thanks again
 

NorthernKronic

Grower of fine herbs...
Veteran
Make sure to make a good seal using the weather strip that comes with the filter. No you dont need to pre-drill holes, but it does make thing a lot easier, and you dont need a special bit, find one that is a size smaller than the self tapping screws and your set. Just make sure you get that gasket right for a tight fit, unless you wont be filtering all of your exhaust.... Good luck
 
Y

yamaha_1fan






See the hole to the left of the AC? I used the flange that is in your bottom pic. Cut a hole and shove that bad boy in there. Make it snug and you wont have to screw the flange in. Then on the other side, just attach your flexible ducting.

I believe they do make 8" clamps. Clamps are in 2 spots st HD. They have clamps in the Venting aisle near all the ducting, then in plumbing

I would just use the self tapping screws. Thats their purpose. If using a screw gun/drill they will go right in.
 

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top