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cal-mag def? getting ugly quick!

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
just tossed these into bloom.
some are getting these symptoms with twisty yellowing new leaves
6 went into bloom a week ago and 3-4 are showing these symptoms.
it's not broadmites and Ive scoped the soil and no RAs.
the only thing i saw was a springtail looking critter

soil ph is sitting pretty @6.5ish

some of the individual leaves are shriveling-n-gettin crinkly just past the point of attachment to midways and yellowing
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this one has more twisty leaves
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you can see how the leaf shrivels past the attached part
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Highcountry

Active member
Did you spray them with forbid or floramite? I've had plants look like that after spraying with too strong a solution.
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
Have you tried to foliar epsom?
no, there should be plenty of mag available to the plant.
it was up potted w/fresh soil 3wks prior to bloom, plus i put a few tbs of dolomite onto every gal of soil.


Did you spray them with forbid or floramite? I've had plants look like that after spraying with too strong a solution.
yes, forbid,
Ive had broadmite issues in the veg room.
I sprayed *10 days* before going into the bloom room at the rate of 1.25mil per gal.
and never had any issues before, ever.
how long after spraying did your plants have issues hi-county?


I did do a foliar using a new prod.----> hydroponic research
**PUSH** of the six plants put into bloom,
1 is fine,
another has slight probs and 4 are varying degrees of not good.
using the PUSH is the only wild card I can think of.
 
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chronosync

Well-known member
It looks like mite damage hopefully you got them all. Its rough on a plant, they get sick before you know it and the treatment beats them up. And what about a spring tail looking thing? If some shit is feeding off your roots thats no good either.
 
This is what my plants looked like a few months ago when my bms got resistent to pylon. I switched to an organic ipm and no longer see this. But I'd caution against the diagnoses if you dont see eggs under a scope.
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
Ive dealt with BMs starting nov 2010, it was a yr before i knew what I was dealing with.
I know broad mites in and out and this isn't BM damage,
although there's a some similarities there's no BMs, as least living ones.

btw
when using heavy chems on BMs you need to ***rotate the chems*** with 2-3 other chems.
using the same chem like pylon in back to back applications will build a resistance in the BMs
and you'll up with pylon resistant BMs.... not good at all amigo

for BMs I use avid, forbid4F and spectracide w/triazicide,
btw floramite doesn't kill any of the
cyclamen class of mites, like the broads
 
S

sourpuss

Whatcha feeding her? Looks pretty bad.... no offense... maybe a lockout? Cause if ph is on point it must be a ratio thing... u running off??
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
well things have changed for the better, the affected parts are greening up and the crisis
seems to be abating.
I have it nailed down to the foliar PUSH feed I did on the 1st,
by the 3rd I was seeing the damage, on the 4th it was obvious there was a definite prob.
today the damage that wasn't too severe is reversing and color is coming back in and there's not much yellow left :)

guess I have to put this one down as user error
 

DONAJTHEIII

Member
Ive dealt with BMs starting nov 2010, it was a yr before i knew what I was dealing with.
I know broad mites in and out and this isn't BM damage,
although there's a some similarities there's no BMs, as least living ones.

btw
when using heavy chems on BMs you need to ***rotate the chems*** with 2-3 other chems.
using the same chem like pylon in back to back applications will build a resistance in the BMs
and you'll up with pylon resistant BMs.... not good at all amigo

for BMs I use avid, forbid4F and spectracide w/triazicide,
btw floramite doesn't kill any of the
cyclamen class of mites, like the broads


Glad you got it worked out def looked like BM damage at first !


PS: This idea of resistance is very true but this does not happen overnight. It takes a very very long time for resistance to happen as many seem to think here that it will occur within a couple of applications. If this was true then it wouldnt make any sense why they work at all because every grower re applys them on new clones for the next round and it would be building resistance immediately. Resistance is bound to happen whether were talking pesticides or medications its apart of our world which is why new products have emerged and will continue to when one is outdated. Its a cycle. Us as humans will find a way to beat things a majority of time because we are capable of it mentally unlike other species. Regardless this theory of resistance is not a big concern IMO so dont stress to much.

Keep producing dank Gnome and post some photos of flower for all of us !
 

Roor22

Member
You burnt your plants with some kind of spray, most likely a pesticide my pesticide I use to prevent my outdoor from getting pest I spray them but I sprayed while the sun was out and it burnt the tops and new leaves just like your
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
Glad you got it worked out def looked like BM damage at first !


PS: This idea of resistance is very true but this does not happen overnight. It takes a very very long time for resistance to happen as many seem to think here that it will occur within a couple of applications. If this was true then it wouldnt make any sense why they work at all because every grower re applys them on new clones for the next round and it would be building resistance immediately. Resistance is bound to happen whether were talking pesticides or medications its apart of our world which is why new products have emerged and will continue to when one is outdated. Its a cycle. Us as humans will find a way to beat things a majority of time because we are capable of it mentally unlike other species. Regardless this theory of resistance is not a big concern IMO so dont stress to much.

Keep producing dank Gnome and post some photos of flower for all of us !

true dat DONAJTHEIII
I use Forbid4F back to back sometimes when ive had BM issues simply because it's the only one that has an ovacide for the eggs and it has translaminar properties so you dont have to spray tops and bottoms of the leaves.
and I agree i would not be an easy thing to get BMs with a tolerance to chems
BUT
I don't like to post it because
somewhere out there is the guy/idiot capable of doing it... right~!~
and my luck he'd drop my name as the one saying it was a cool thing to do :D

btw this isn't directed at you tessarecting.
there's a lot of reasons the pylon didn't kill your BMs and seem to have built a resistance to it.
the most obvious reason imho and the 1st I'd consider is....
like avid, pylon kills live mites
down the road eggs can hatch and you back to square 1 making it look like your BMs love pylon and eat it for breakfast.
or another reason is they're in your environment
etc etc etc

Keep producing dank Gnome and post some photos of flower for all of us !
here's my lateest endeavor.
it's a sourD cross
picture.php

.
picture.php
 
T

Timm

using forbid at 2ml/gal is overkill 1ml/gal is all that's necessary

I would never spray forbid / avid.. only use it as a dip on clones

You spraying just before flower is going to definitely leave a certain PPM of it in your meds
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
You spraying just before flower is going to definitely leave a certain PPM of it in your meds
have you run ever used a lab to see how much, if any is left in the final product?
if so I'd be interested seeing the results

btw
Forbid4F is listed having a residual action that *may* last up to 45days,
i am well under that timeline when I used it 10 day before 12/12
add to another 65-70+ days of my average bloom run which puts it around 80 days,
nearly twice the residual 45 days listing not to mention again,
45 days is the hi side of the residual which would seem to really say it's usually less.
using forbid at 2mil is overkill 1m;/gal is all that;s necessary
actually it's listed to use up to 1.2mil/gal.
I made a mistake saying i use 2mil appl. rate
kitchen measuring spoons don't come in 2mil,
they come in a 1/4tsp,this is what I use, which is 1.25mils
and the next size up is 2 1/2tsp or 2.5 mils
so i am using more than needed, but only over maybe over by .05 mils?
my bad for the 2mil statement,
I don't want mis-lead people with something like this so thanx for bringing that to my attention :smoke:


  • Long residual – up to 45 days
 

DONAJTHEIII

Member
true dat DONAJTHEIII
I use Forbid4F back to back sometimes when ive had BM issues simply because it's the only one that has an ovacide for the eggs and it has translaminar properties so you dont have to spray tops and bottoms of the leaves.
and I agree i would not be an easy thing to get BMs with a tolerance to chems
BUT
I don't like to post it because
somewhere out there is the guy/idiot capable of doing it... right~!~
and my luck he'd drop my name as the one saying it was a cool thing to do :D

btw this isn't directed at you tessarecting.
there's a lot of reasons the pylon didn't kill your BMs and seem to have built a resistance to it.
the most obvious reason imho and the 1st I'd consider is....
like avid, pylon kills live mites
down the road eggs can hatch and you back to square 1 making it look like your BMs love pylon and eat it for breakfast.
or another reason is they're in your environment
etc etc etc

here's my lateest endeavor.
it's a sourD cross
View Image
.
View Image

Oh Man those colas are heaven :)


This makes me want to go try horizontal but I learned in verticle.. are you running tables gnome?
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
Oh Man those colas are heaven :)


This makes me want to go try horizontal but I learned in verticle.. are you running tables gnome?


most of the plants have nice dense rock hard nugs.
even the 30 day samples from the not so dense plants dried up
really nice,

no tables, tree's in 4 gal soil/pots
I want to start running tables/trellis and run coco for less veg time
but hate to rock the boat because I'm knocking down minimum 200gm per plant, some strains Ive hit 300+grams :)
before I switched to DE fixtures
I ran parabolic hoods running 4 plants per lamp, 5 strain depending.

i'm thinking these plants would absolutely kill it in a table-trellis-coco set up
I hope to find out around june

here's a link for the gro thread for the HBs
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=7424587#post7424587
 

DONAJTHEIII

Member
This is like saying someone taught you to walk but not run.....


well tbh I dont think anyone taught me to run lol it just kind of happened walking yes but running no. All natural athlete over here :laughing:


I dont really see what your saying your post made zero sense to me bad analogy
 

Roor22

Member
well tbh I dont think anyone taught me to run lol it just kind of happened walking yes but running no. All natural athlete over here :laughing:


I dont really see what your saying your post made zero sense to me bad analogy

You must not be that smart if you can run without anyone teaching you but someone taught you to walk then how is vertical different from horizontal nothing at all you just put the light somewhere else but same concept
 

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