bayarea925
Active member
I'm having issues with pump staying on at current water level. Any one know what pump or how to fix this issue?
C.A.P. Auto-Drain Controller
ADC-1
C.A.P. Auto-Drain Controller
ADC-1
-
As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.
C.A.P. Auto-Drain Controller ADC-1 ----pump?-
- Thread starter bayarea925
- Start date
no, but cap went belly up.....broke
bayarea925
Active member
Yea I know.
My issue is when my dtw bucket fills up past the switch. The pump kicks on but once the pump drains to where the switch is to shut off it will kick the pump on an off on an off none stop. Until I unplug it. This is useless.
Anyone else using a dtw controller bucket? With a switch. How is this problem solved?
My issue is when my dtw bucket fills up past the switch. The pump kicks on but once the pump drains to where the switch is to shut off it will kick the pump on an off on an off none stop. Until I unplug it. This is useless.
Anyone else using a dtw controller bucket? With a switch. How is this problem solved?
It sounds as though the upper switch contacts have welded together or perhaps the relay that the switch is driving. The bottom switch should stop the pump at the end of the pump-down cycle, and the upper switch should start the pump. If the upper switch is stuck, the pump will start as soon as enough water returns to the control bucket and lifts the bottom switch, then will shut off immediately as the solution is pumped down past the switch.
Make sure that the floats move freely, and you might try removing the floats and cleaning the outside of the switches. Make sure that the floats go back on in the same orientation that you removed them, inverting the float will reverse the switch action.
Make sure that the floats move freely, and you might try removing the floats and cleaning the outside of the switches. Make sure that the floats go back on in the same orientation that you removed them, inverting the float will reverse the switch action.
bayarea925
Active member
At first I made my own bucket with a float switch. It worked but when the float hit the turn off point / water level to kick off pump. It would just kick on an off as the water level would rise with the back slop of water from it turning off. Then back on an so on.
So I bought the adc-1 but this has the same issue.
This only has one switch. Would a two switch not do this?
My table drains into this controller bucket. Then into a 50 gal trash can. Right now I just plug in the pump while I'm watering. But I want this to do it auto when I'm not there. An not be kicking on an off until I show up an unplug it.
So I bought the adc-1 but this has the same issue.
This only has one switch. Would a two switch not do this?
My table drains into this controller bucket. Then into a 50 gal trash can. Right now I just plug in the pump while I'm watering. But I want this to do it auto when I'm not there. An not be kicking on an off until I show up an unplug it.
I've done a search for information on the ADC-1, but can't come up with any decent pictures or a schematic. The only way that I can see where it would work with a single switch is to have a switch with a relatively long throw (kind of like a toilet valve, or the switches that they use on sump pumps). With this type of switch, the contacts would close when the float got near the top, and the mechanical differential would keep the switch actuated until it got near the bottom and opened. If this is the case with yours, it sounds like perhaps it has gotten out of adjustment. Has it ever worked properly?
I looked at using one of these several years ago, and all of the ones that I saw at that time had two switches, both of the very short-throw magnetic variety. The top switch functioned as a start button, turning on a relay with a hold circuit to keep the circuit energized when the water dropped away from the upper switch, and the bottom switch acted as the stop button, de-energizing the whole circuit. Some of them had a 3rd or 4th switch for redundant protection, but basically functioned the same as described above.
I looked at using one of these several years ago, and all of the ones that I saw at that time had two switches, both of the very short-throw magnetic variety. The top switch functioned as a start button, turning on a relay with a hold circuit to keep the circuit energized when the water dropped away from the upper switch, and the bottom switch acted as the stop button, de-energizing the whole circuit. Some of them had a 3rd or 4th switch for redundant protection, but basically functioned the same as described above.
bayarea925
Active member
Yea I think I need to add a switch an relay. No clue how to wire that up. I think I found a relay on amazon. An another switch.
bayarea925
Active member
I was looking for a two switch diy but all I see is with a timer.
Lizard Fish
Active member
Dude, you can make ogre's controller bucket and just leave out the timer. Its really cheap and kicks ass. For years I had been buying the Greentrees controller buckets, not anymore since finding that tutorial.
bayarea925
Active member
There is one relay in there. Just need to add another one an another upper switch.
bayarea925
Active member
I found the info needed. Ordering the parts.
OgreSeeker
Active member
Can't believe that tutorial was posted almost 6 years ago...where does the time go? I considered CAP equipment before building my own controller but I'm a big DIY guy so I wound up doing it myself.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=92963
you are getting a "slosh" effect.
google it and it will give you a tutorial on how to build a little container to hold the float.
here, have fun at this site.
plenty of DIY kits and guides, on the cheap!
http://www.aquahub.com/store/index.html
google it and it will give you a tutorial on how to build a little container to hold the float.
here, have fun at this site.
plenty of DIY kits and guides, on the cheap!
http://www.aquahub.com/store/index.html
You have to pay attention to the voltage ratings on those switches. Most of the ones that I've seen are for DC, not AC, and the few that are rated for AC seem to be pretty low voltage. You can always set up a wall wart for a lower AC voltage or a DC source and select the relays to match.
It's a good idea to stay within the switch specifications to get the longest and most reliable life out of them, and DC isn't a bad choice when combining water and electricity.
It's a good idea to stay within the switch specifications to get the longest and most reliable life out of them, and DC isn't a bad choice when combining water and electricity.
bayarea925
Active member
Does anyone actually have or put together a working two switch pump turn on/off with relay an no timer. .?? This seams like it would be used more with all the dtw coco grows.
bayarea925
Active member
Never mind I'm just getting a sump pump. I'll post if its working or not.
