BURNS HELP!

[StonedGrunt55]

Hi all, i'v been seeing burned spots on leaves especially the blades & i'v been thinkin alot of things could have done that heat,nuteburn,watertorch BUT for each one i found something indicating that its not one of these maybe.. at first i thaught its heat but temp got lower sometimes & burns still came out.then i thaught could be watertorch coz i used to spray them under lights on but when i stopped spraying still burns came out & i'v been thinking maybe nuteburn but most tips r good & green just very few turned yellow. so i'm saying what is going on with these??? could it be root rot?? or bugs?? or high ph ?(coz b4 i used to give them not adjusted ph tapwater)?? i don't know...
sorry i don't have a good cam until i buy one!





why the burns r forming into lines?? like the pic above & below















IS THERE SOMETHING I CAN DO????

 

[StonedGrunt55]

MY grow of 5 plants 41days today 13-14inches tall been 18/6 from sprout & planning to switch 12/12 4 more days,light a 400w MH 1m above,growroom 3ft x 4ft x 6ft high,i feed them tapwater after leaving it 1-2 days & now w/ ph tester adjust it to 6.5 & feed them evry 4-5 days ,1-2 leters water evry pot 10 x 10 inch pots & drain them,fert miracle grow npk 24-8-16 gave them twice. First fert at 23 days & second fert at 37days (14 days later),Flortis organic soil contains perlite high percentage of peat especially black peat & added some building sand myself,temps varys from 84f-88-89f a 14 inch fan mark 2, air extracter from growroom to the window 2ft away...
i'm still a noob don't know much, but this is written on the soilbag says what it contains:

"Flortis ter Multipurpose Substratium" is made in france & from Northern European natural raw materials.Carefully selected & mixed according to the most modern criteria.High percentage of peat especially black peat.
'Natural organic amender'
'peaty compound amender'

percentages on dry material basis:
Organic carbon (C) 35%
carbon (C) from fulvic & humic acids 9%
organic nitrogen (N) 1.5%
C/N ratio 23
total chopper (Cu) < 150ppm
total zinc (Zn) < 450ppm

peat content (volium percentage) 92%
salinity (1:1 .5 v:v) 1 division by 1.5mS/cm
ph (in water) 6 division by 6.5

PHYSICAL ANALYSIS:
Total porousness (pF 1) 85 division by 90%
air capacity (pF 1) 25 division by 30%
easily available water (pF 1-pF 2) 25%

BUT THESE BURNS R INCREASING!!! HELP!

ps. IF I FORGOT TO WRITE SOME MORE INFO PLS LET ME KNOW...TNKX!

 

[Blackvelvet]

Your light is 1 meter away? You could have it closer like 1/2 meter. Use your hand to be sure its not too hot.

Miracle grow contains mostly ammonia or urea nitrogen. In large amounts this can be toxic to plants. Choose ferts with mostly nitrate nitrogen. Miracle grow also lacks calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Did you add dolomite lime to provide calcium and magnesium?

Have you tested soil ph? This is important to know.

 

[StonedGrunt55]

hey, the light is 1m high coz when i lowered it temp around them came too high 95f - 97f we got hot temp here as it is, now with the light 1 m still rises to 88-89f sometimes.About that dolomite lime i don't even know what it is (i saw the the word in some threads tho) but i'll sure go ask & buy it if its good 1st thing tomorrow.I just got the ph tester 4 days ago was gonna use it tomorrow's feed BUT i better go & do it now i think....

ok miracle grow i'm not gonna use it no more, i'm switching 12/12 4 more days & i figuered i need a flower/bloom fert now w/ high pk mostly.IN YOUR OPPINION WHAT DO U SUGGEST FOR A GOOD FLOWER/BLOOM FERT????
I'll even get that dolomite lime you mentioned & if there's something else needed let me know Tnkx alot for your help/comment! i'll keep u updated.

 

[Blackvelvet]

WHAT DO U SUGGEST FOR A GOOD FLOWER/BLOOM FERT????
I'll even get that dolomite lime you mentioned & if there's something else needed let me know

You need to adjust the ph of your fert water after mixing and also test ph in your soil mix. So, you at least need some ph test strips in the aquarium section of a petstore or a brew your own beer/wine store. Ph range 4-7 is ok. Better a narrower range around 6.

How to test soil ph: After watering/ferting till runoff, wait 30 minutes. Apply a small amount of distilled water to the pot surface till 1 or 2 ounces of runoff occurs. Catch this on a saucer. Test this ph. If after watering/ferting and waiting 30 minutes you can tilt the pot and get some liquid out, you can test that instead.

You would use powdered/pulverized not pelletized dolomite lime. You can only use this if your ph is low. Adding lime when the soil ph is ok will cause problems.

If ph is low, you can surface apply the lime at 1 1/5 teaspoon per gallon of soil mix. Water in.

If ph is ok or high, you can add cal mag to your fert by using 1/4 teaspoon powdered gypsum and epsom salts per gallon of water along with the regular fert. Calcium nitrate could be used instead of gypsum at the same rate. Calcium chloride sold under names like tomato blossom end rot stopper could be used instead of gypsum. It will take the % ca and net weight of the bottle to give you a rate of 60 ppm ca. Calcium chloride and calcium nitrate are much easier to disolve than gypsum. Easily disolvable gypsum you can find at brew your own beer/wine stores.

Using just dolomite lime does not provide sulfur. (actually needed in large quantities) You can mix gypsum into the soil at planting at 3/4 teaspoon per gallon of mix to provide this or in your case, you might add 1/4 teaspoon epsom salts occassionally in the water to provide sulfur along with your lime.

As far as bloom ferts, you want npk (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) and all 6 micronutrients (iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, and molybdenum). You want a high amount of nitrate nitrogen versus urea or ammonia nitrogen. Usually growers use a high amount of phosphorus and less nitrogen. Remember unless there is a deficiency of phosphorus, increasing its level will not increase blooming. Something like 20-20-20 will be okay. (variations might be 20-30-20, 10-30-20, etc..) Avoid ferts with potassium chloride like miracle grow. Compare labels in the store.

Apply ph adjusted weak fert water with every watering. Alot of runoff should come out the bottom.

Unless the tops are actually showing burns, keep the light as close as possible to prevent unwanted stretch.

Good luck!

 

[Core]

she's looking blueisch 2 me from here ...do i see that good? if it is....ease up on the food...like a little smaller dose oh and you should try and lower you temps my friend....above 85-90 can stunt your plants in growth...

 

[StonedGrunt55]

she's looking blueisch 2 me from here ...do i see that good? if it is....ease up on the food...like a little smaller dose oh and you should try and lower you temps my friend....above 85-90 can stunt your plants in growth...

there's nothing i can do for this damm heat, thats why i raised the MH 1m high & still today its fuckin 90f ,i'm thinkin of buying an HPS for less heat & 4 flower.about the color thats my cam getting them bluish coz they all look green exept the burned spots, i'll get better pics












TESE PICS WERE TAKEN A FEW DAYS AGO COZ NOW BURNS INCREASED ON THEM I'LL POST A FEW MORE PICS TO SEE THEM BETTER BRO...

 

[StonedGrunt55]

You need to adjust the ph of your fert water after mixing and also test ph in your soil mix. So, you at least need some ph test strips in the aquarium section of a petstore or a brew your own beer/wine store. Ph range 4-7 is ok. Better a narrower range around 6.

How to test soil ph: After watering/ferting till runoff, wait 30 minutes. Apply a small amount of distilled water to the pot surface till 1 or 2 ounces of runoff occurs. Catch this on a saucer. Test this ph. If after watering/ferting and waiting 30 minutes you can tilt the pot and get some liquid out, you can test that instead.

You would use powdered/pulverized not pelletized dolomite lime. You can only use this if your ph is low. Adding lime when the soil ph is ok will cause problems.

If ph is low, you can surface apply the lime at 1 1/5 teaspoon per gallon of soil mix. Water in.

If ph is ok or high, you can add cal mag to your fert by using 1/4 teaspoon powdered gypsum and epsom salts per gallon of water along with the regular fert. Calcium nitrate could be used instead of gypsum at the same rate. Calcium chloride sold under names like tomato blossom end rot stopper could be used instead of gypsum. It will take the % ca and net weight of the bottle to give you a rate of 60 ppm ca. Calcium chloride and calcium nitrate are much easier to disolve than gypsum. Easily disolvable gypsum you can find at brew your own beer/wine stores.

Using just dolomite lime does not provide sulfur. (actually needed in large quantities) You can mix gypsum into the soil at planting at 3/4 teaspoon per gallon of mix to provide this or in your case, you might add 1/4 teaspoon epsom salts occassionally in the water to provide sulfur along with your lime.

As far as bloom ferts, you want npk (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) and all 6 micronutrients (iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, and molybdenum). You want a high amount of nitrate nitrogen versus urea or ammonia nitrogen. Usually growers use a high amount of phosphorus and less nitrogen. Remember unless there is a deficiency of phosphorus, increasing its level will not increase blooming. Something like 20-20-20 will be okay. (variations might be 20-30-20, 10-30-20, etc..) Avoid ferts with potassium chloride like miracle grow. Compare labels in the store.

Apply ph adjusted weak fert water with every watering. Alot of runoff should come out the bottom.

Unless the tops are actually showing burns, keep the light as close as possible to prevent unwanted stretch.

Good luck!

Tnkx alot blackvelvet, this info is very useful for me Well last 2 feeds ph was adjusted good 6.5 ,today after i finish this post i'm gonna feed them again (i feed evry 4-5 days) & DEFFINATLY I'M GONNA CHECK THE SOIL'S PH ,abot the fert's water ph was allready adjusted when i did it even adjusted ph in the spray/mist bottle so for now i'm not too worried for that. WHAT I'M THINKING RIGHT NOW :COULD HUMIDITY CAUSE THESE BURNS ??(just a thaught) ? coz i still don't have a humidity thermometer oops! i must admit i missed that one lol,
about stretching they'r not stretching to me tho MH is 1m high , today growroom temp (around the plants) is fucking 90f if i lower the light it could reach 95-100 easily ( coz i tried allready) .To tell the truth i didn't expect the 400 MH to make all that heat added to our weather temp .

 

[StonedGrunt55]

BLACKVELVET i checked the soil's ph like u told me i let it drain & i found out that ph came alil too high around 7.0.. does that mean next time i'll have to adjust feedwater ph around 5.5 or 6.0 to come out level??????? sry 4 asking many questions i'm still a noob on these things ( i never had any typs of plants b4)..
Here r some pics after today's water (sry 4 my shitty cam) of my #3 & #1 coz they have most burns...
my #3





this is my #1



tell me what u think!!!!!!

 

[Blackvelvet]

Ph is a little high. You would not want to use dolomite lime to add calcium and magnesium. You would use the other choices I gave you. Sounds like a good idea to adjust the fert water ph after mixing to about 6.

 

[StonedGrunt55]

Tnkx blackvelvet, from what i'm seeing & reading from sites TILL NOW my guess HEATSTRESS is doing this!!! & for now ther's nothing i can do about it exept buy another fan & wait 3 weeks more to buy an HPS for less heat coz MH is making too much heat

would misting them with plain water 3-4 times a day do good or BAD ????
TODAY TEMP AROUND THE PLANTS CAME 91F...

 

[Steaks]

you have got to do SOMETHING about your temps. If your plants are never below 85 degrees during lights on you have to lower the temps. AC somehow has got to be used, I had my plants hovering at 85 degrees for the first month, then i nutted up and got the ac going and now at 76 degrees they are loving life and growth has simply taken off.

I think a lot of the problems your going to have are going to be centered around your heat issue.

And for misting....KISS, until your able to control the variables you already have, dont add anymore.

 

[StonedGrunt55]

you have got to do SOMETHING about your temps. If your plants are never below 85 degrees during lights on you have to lower the temps. AC somehow has got to be used, I had my plants hovering at 85 degrees for the first month, then i nutted up and got the ac going and now at 76 degrees they are loving life and growth has simply taken off.

I think a lot of the problems your going to have are going to be centered around your heat issue.

And for misting....KISS, until your able to control the variables you already have, dont add anymore.

NO! temp varys, i'm saying 91f is the most. sometimes it goes 82-83f . in the hottest days it won't stay 89-90f all day ,for ex around noon is the hottest period of the day.
I THINK LIKE U THE AC IS THE SLOUTION