Burned my plants. What to do?

[Limolax]

Hi. New grower here. I have 6 small plants. They mostly have 4-5 sets of leaves. I use chemical fertelizer every other watering and water every 5 to 7 days. A week ago I noticed that the new growth is getting pale and yellowish green. Also leaves we're getting yellow and dry from bottom which I thought was at a normal rate. Untill I noticed that its happening very quick so I thought maybe more fertelizer can help since I was using it at 1/4 strength. So the last watering which was 3 days ago I used 1/2 strength fertelizer and also I misted a weaker solution on leaves. I thought it can help me solve the problem faster since foliage feeding is quicker. So I repeated this foliage feeding 3 more times in total in 2 days. But today I noticed some of the smaller plant got yellow dots on top leaves. some are wilted down. As soon as I touched the leafe it broke!! They are green but very dried. Did I burn my plant with too much fertelizer in water and foliage feeding? What should I do? I misted them with just water this morning and were trying to clean the remaining fertelizer on leaves if any left. But was scared to brake the leaves by cleaning them with a wet cloth or something. What do you guys suggest I should do to save my plants. I think the misting ruined everything. They looked fine before that. Just a bit pale. Thanks all
Ps: I use 4 flourecent lamps at 20 w each. Plants are a few centimeters away from the lamps

 

[Budley Doright]

You didnt mention the fertilizer by name.....

I would flush with water and transplant.....

As a start....

 

[Limolax]

You didnt mention the fertilizer by name.....

I would flush with water and transplant.....

As a start....

The fertelizer is green label Kristalone 18-18-18 this is a learning experience for me. The plant were supposed to be trasplanted into real soil and organic but I didn't have the time so they stayed in Peatmoss + perlite for long and needed some fertelizer for now. I started with 1/4 strength after the end of 2nd week cause the growth was kinda stopped. They started growing again. Next watering which was after like 5 days I gave just water and next time after that fertelizer and then next time water again. This is we're I noticed that the leafes are getting yellow very fast and the new growth was kinda pale and yellowish. I decided to use 1/2 strength fertelizer from now on on every other watering. So gave them fertelizer after a day or two no improvement so I thought maybe misting a weaker fertelizer+water on them will help and this is when the disaster happened plants shows all kinda of problems. Some leaves have black/brown area on them some have yellow dots on them and some are just compelitely dried even though they are green and not on the bottom. Mostly the middle leafes. The newer growth on top of each plant is compelitely fine and the branches on the bottom are getting yellow slowly but look normal. The problem is in the middle branches. They are the ones with most damage visible on them.
Is misting just water on them beneficial?
Shall I remove the very badly damaged leavfes that are dried? They break with a simple touch of hand
What can be helpfull at this stage to save the plants?

 

[vostok]

Never Never hesitate to Flush! plants see it as a rainstorm as in nature ...use 3 times the volume of the pot, with air temperate ph neutral water, allow to drain overnite or in dim light

 

[Budley Doright]

The fertelizer is green label Kristalone 18-18-18 this is a learning experience for me. The plant were supposed to be trasplanted into real soil and organic but I didn't have the time so they stayed in Peatmoss + perlite for long and needed some fertelizer for now. I started with 1/4 strength after the end of 2nd week cause the growth was kinda stopped. They started growing again. Next watering which was after like 5 days I gave just water and next time after that fertelizer and then next time water again. This is we're I noticed that the leafes are getting yellow very fast and the new growth was kinda pale and yellowish. I decided to use 1/2 strength fertelizer from now on on every other watering. So gave them fertelizer after a day or two no improvement so I thought maybe misting a weaker fertelizer+water on them will help and this is when the disaster happened plants shows all kinda of problems. Some leaves have black/brown area on them some have yellow dots on them and some are just compelitely dried even though they are green and not on the bottom. Mostly the middle leafes. The newer growth on top of each plant is compelitely fine and the branches on the bottom are getting yellow slowly but look normal. The problem is in the middle branches. They are the ones with most damage visible on them.
Is misting just water on them beneficial?
Shall I remove the very badly damaged leavfes that are dried? They break with a simple touch of hand
What can be helpfull at this stage to save the plants?

I checked your fert.....

It appears to be missing 2 important things....

calcium and magnesium.....


both could be supplied with dolomitic lime.......

Peat alone can be too acidic....and could be a significant part of the problem.....

In retrospect the transplant would have been a good idea......

 

[TanzanianMagic]

Burned my plants. What to do?

Hi. New grower here. I have 6 small plants. They mostly have 4-5 sets of leaves. I use chemical fertelizer every other watering and water every 5 to 7 days. A week ago I noticed that the new growth is getting pale and yellowish green. Also leaves we're getting yellow and dry from bottom which I thought was at a normal rate. Untill I noticed that its happening very quick so I thought maybe more fertelizer can help since I was using it at 1/4 strength. So the last watering which was 3 days ago I used 1/2 strength fertelizer and also I misted a weaker solution on leaves. I thought it can help me solve the problem faster since foliage feeding is quicker. So I repeated this foliage feeding 3 more times in total in 2 days. But today I noticed some of the smaller plant got yellow dots on top leaves. some are wilted down. As soon as I touched the leafe it broke!! They are green but very dried. Did I burn my plant with too much fertelizer in water and foliage feeding? What should I do?

Your fertilizer is very high in NPK counts.

Your foliar fertilizer is probably also of the wrong composition.

Here is how I would like to put it into as few words as I can:

1) When you use peat and perlite, you should also add magnesium lime, just to keep ph higher, and counteract the acidity of the peat. The perlite is good because it helps aerate the soil, and if it goes anaerobic (because overwatering or compaction or breakdown of roots after burning with nutrient solution), the pH goes south very quickly. Always add a drainage layer (perlite in small pots, grow rocks in larger pots) to keep the drainage holes free from soil. After watering, hold the pot at an angle so that excess water can freely run from the pots - every time. The pots the feeder roots are the weak link in the chain, and need soil that is always moist, and never wet or soggy.

2) Get an EC/PPM meter

I would like to suggest to first get an EC or PPM meter to go with your pH meter. Get a cheap one, that can always be cheaply replaced (I hate it when expensive equipment fails).

3) Know why you're foliar fertilizing in addition to soil feeding.

It is always easiest to burn plants with nitrogen (N), than with P or K.

Here is a regimen I would like to suggest.

a) Soil feed with 50% strength or 1.0 nutrient EC plus your water's EC, then plant the seeds. Until the roots have colonized the potting soil, bottom water with plain water first. This is in my opinion also a method that is superior to flushing, because it gives more time for dried up nutrients to be dissolved and made available to the plant again. Use filtered water, with cal/mag added.

Don't use something that is 18-18-18, more like 6-6-6 or 3-1-6 (like BioSevia Grow) or 4-3-6 (like Biobizz Grow).

b) Foliar feed with a combination of root stimulator (like Canna Rhizotonic), high PK bloom fertilizer (no nitrogen), magnesium like liquid epsom salts, trace elements and plain boiled tapwater. Use a high EC like 2.0 total.

This does the following things. It provides a root stimulator. It provides food for the roots to grow - P and K are crucial in root growth. Trace elements prevent a temporary shortage of micronutrients. Not using filtered water means there are no extra cal/mag deficiencies that go with filtered water. You don't need to douse the entire plants with this, only the lowest leaves.

This combination will generate massive root growth, which is the most important factor for new plants and uncolonized soil. Only then can you start increasing the nutrient solution, without much of it just sitting in soil without roots, and drying up unused, only to be re-released with the next feeding, to add nutrients to the new nutrients, which after drying up become even more concentrated, and before you know it, you have a hot soil.

Bottom watering usually has a great effect, and mimics the natural eb and flow of the water table and moisture in the soil, throughout the day - higher at night, lower in the heat of the day.

 

[Guest]

.

 

[Mikell]

Don't use something that is 18-18-18, more like 6-6-6 or 3-1-6 (like BioSevia Grow) or 4-3-6 (like Biobizz Grow)

Unless I'm ass side up today, the only difference is a concentrated dry mix vs. a similar producted mixed with water. Simply use less of the concentrate (much easier with an meter, as you suggested.)

Give the company a ring about Ca and Mg, their website is terrible to navigate or I really am ass side up.

 

[DrFever]

Your fertilizer is very high in NPK counts.

Your foliar fertilizer is probably also of the wrong composition.

Here is how I would like to put it into as few words as I can:

1) When you use peat and perlite, you should also add magnesium lime, just to keep ph higher, and counteract the acidity of the peat. The perlite is good because it helps aerate the soil, and if it goes anaerobic (because overwatering or compaction or breakdown of roots after burning with nutrient solution), the pH goes south very quickly. Always add a drainage layer (perlite in small pots, grow rocks in larger pots) to keep the drainage holes free from soil. After watering, hold the pot at an angle so that excess water can freely run from the pots - every time. The pots the feeder roots are the weak link in the chain, and need soil that is always moist, and never wet or soggy.

2) Get an EC/PPM meter

I would like to suggest to first get an EC or PPM meter to go with your pH meter. Get a cheap one, that can always be cheaply replaced (I hate it when expensive equipment fails).

3) Know why you're foliar fertilizing in addition to soil feeding.

It is always easiest to burn plants with nitrogen (N), than with P or K.

Here is a regimen I would like to suggest.

a) Soil feed with 50% strength or 1.0 nutrient EC plus your water's EC, then plant the seeds. Until the roots have colonized the potting soil, bottom water with plain water first. This is in my opinion also a method that is superior to flushing, because it gives more time for dried up nutrients to be dissolved and made available to the plant again. Use filtered water, with cal/mag added.

Don't use something that is 18-18-18, more like 6-6-6 or 3-1-6 (like BioSevia Grow) or 4-3-6 (like Biobizz Grow).

b) Foliar feed with a combination of root stimulator (like Canna Rhizotonic), high PK bloom fertilizer (no nitrogen), magnesium like liquid epsom salts, trace elements and plain boiled tapwater. Use a high EC like 2.0 total.

This does the following things. It provides a root stimulator. It provides food for the roots to grow - P and K are crucial in root growth. Trace elements prevent a temporary shortage of micronutrients. Not using filtered water means there are no extra cal/mag deficiencies that go with filtered water. You don't need to douse the entire plants with this, only the lowest leaves.

This combination will generate massive root growth, which is the most important factor for new plants and uncolonized soil. Only then can you start increasing the nutrient solution, without much of it just sitting in soil without roots, and drying up unused, only to be re-released with the next feeding, to add nutrients to the new nutrients, which after drying up become even more concentrated, and before you know it, you have a hot soil.

Bottom watering usually has a great effect, and mimics the natural eb and flow of the water table and moisture in the soil, throughout the day - higher at night, lower in the heat of the day.

although some of this is correct allot of it is hog wash This needs to be said first....for some strange reason folks need to make pot growing as complicated and confusing as they can. That's why you must empower yourself with solid botanical knowledge rather than take someone's advice on lighting, foods, defoliation tricks, etc.
I suggest you buy this book Mel Franks
http://www.amazon.com/Marijuana-Growers-Insiders-Guide-Frank/dp/0929349008

That is the most comprehensive, down to earth book on horticulture. Get your nose out of this blind-leading-the-blind forum and into Mel's book. here 30 - 10 - 10 miracle grow plant looks rather good don't you think ???? its knowing how and what the plant needs, how much and when

 

[Budley Doright]

although some of this is correct allot of it is hog wash This needs to be said first....for some strange reason folks need to make pot growing as complicated and confusing as they can. That's why you must empower yourself with solid botanical knowledge rather than take someone's advice on lighting, foods, defoliation tricks, etc.
I suggest you buy this book Mel Franks
http://www.amazon.com/Marijuana-Growers-Insiders-Guide-Frank/dp/0929349008

That is the most comprehensive, down to earth book on horticulture. Get your nose out of this blind-leading-the-blind forum and into Mel's book. here 30 - 10 - 10 miracle grow plant looks rather good don't you think ???? its knowing how and what the plant needs, how much and when

Most people seem to fail using miracle grow...... and complain the stuff is no good.....

The main problem with miracle grow.....3 things....

no calcium...

no magnesium.....

and not enough nitrate N to suit me..... at least most formulations.


One really good thing to learn...... read the labels....

 

[Limolax]

Thanks everyone. Well that's all I got from reading your advice:
I must get some kind of lime and add to water every now and then.
I sould not mist that Kristalone fertelizer on my plants.
Flushing will help them. So will transplanting them.
Read more
What I didn't get is shall I remove the badly damaged leafes? some are compelitely dried but green. They break when I touch them
I admit I didn't pay as much attention to them since I decided to go with different seeds and real soil. I knew the fertelizer was not that great but I thought its enough till I get my soil ready. I had no idea I could fuck em up this bad just by misting some very weak fertelizer solution on them

 

[TanzanianMagic]

although some of this is correct allot of it is hog wash This needs to be said first....for some strange reason folks need to make pot growing as complicated and confusing as they can. That's why you must empower yourself with solid botanical knowledge rather than take someone's advice on lighting, foods, defoliation tricks, etc.
I suggest you buy this book Mel Franks

I may have not racked up 2750 or some posts since 2012, however I have been a member of this forum since 2006, and have been growing weed since 2003.

When I give you advice, it is because it has worked for me. It is not 'hog wash', and I do not appreciate the characterisation.

If you have any doubt about my advice, I suggest you try it out first, preferrably before you have an opinion about it?

 

[vostok]

[Q]..What I didn't get is shall I remove the badly damaged leafes?

Yes you may remove the brown or necrotic leaves, the brown yellowing, even above the one that fall to dust once you touch them, avoid stripping off all non green leaves...as you need a control point, that YOU can see your efforts are working

 

[sourpuss]

Nutes were too low not high. Yellow from bottom up is nitrogen starved. Spots on leaves most likely points to cal mag deficiency.

 

[Limolax]

I removed the dead leafes on all plants except one to see the difference. Some plants have only 2 sets of leafes now also flushed all the pots. the growth rate has been very slow
I will add some cal and mag if the problem doesn't go away I don't know what to do. But from what I see things are getting worst.

 

[sourpuss]

Flush is going to finish em. Mortal kombat. Feed em. Go 75 percent and see how they respond...

 

[Limolax]

I know they were under fed in the beginning that's why I increased the amount of fertelizer and sprayed some fertelizer on the plants a few times. That's when it got really messed up and plants showed all kind of problems.

 

[TanzanianMagic]

I know they were under fed in the beginning that's why I increased the amount of fertelizer and sprayed some fertelizer on the plants a few times. That's when it got really messed up and plants showed all kind of problems.

It is hard to tell whether it is nutrient deficiency or lockout. Lockout can be because of too much fertilizer and salt buildup in the soil, it can also be because of for instance a drop in temperature. For instance low temperatures can lock out P or K. Too high a pH locks the metals - iron, zinc, copper, etc.

That is why it is best to keep the soil relatively mild, but with solid nutrients, and foliar spray (high P/K, trace, cal/mag, root stimulator) for root development. It is the most failsafe method I know of.

And keep the soil liquid nutrient NPK to the mid-teens, 5-5-5 or something like that, and use 50% of strength first (with bottom watering with plain water between feedings until the roots have colonized all the soil, and when plants show overfertilization symptoms like crispy leaves), and let the roots grow into that.

 

[sourpuss]

Basically whether u burned em or under fed or both.... quit the foliars... Watch your current green leaves like a hawk to finish and adjust nutes as needed.... if its the bottom up yellow its natural and just a underfed sign....

 

[Matt8800]

Flush but if you are new, remember that flushing has the same effect as overwatering so do it well the first time so you don't have to a second time too soon.