After reading multiple posts about how great Burmese males are in crosses, I've decided to (hopefully) cross a Burmese male with my Swazi/Red congo strain. 100% germination on the 5 Burmese and 6 Swazi/Red Congos. I was surpised that all Swazi/Red Congos germinated being 11 years old and the fridge they were in dying. All germinated within 3 days, except for 1 cross that took 2 weeks and had to be culled. Hopefully this combo will improvethe Swazi/Red Congo taste (which unfortunately inherited the bad Swazi taste) and maintain the energetic high with a little extra euphoria. Will See. Should definitely have hybrid vigor based on how different the seedlings looks so far.
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Burmese(Coastal Seeds) x (Swazi/Red Congo)
- Thread starter Lolo94
- Start date
TheDarkStorm
Well-known member
Hey man, sounds like a very interesting cross.....best of luck an have fun with the project......il definitely be interested to see how you get on...
should start them in smaller containers and seperate 
easier to get waterings correct redce any root aphid issues etc. ya should be nice. lower flowering time of swazi congo aswell prob if its teh faster fatter leaf burmese which they look like but still has cleaner uper high then most phat leafs. and def because its not a pure narrow leaf should get some vigor in the f1s
easier to get waterings correct redce any root aphid issues etc. ya should be nice. lower flowering time of swazi congo aswell prob if its teh faster fatter leaf burmese which they look like but still has cleaner uper high then most phat leafs. and def because its not a pure narrow leaf should get some vigor in the f1s should start them in smaller containers and seperate
The seedlings are in their final container (about 8 gallons). They were transplanted a couple of days ago from small cups. Out of necessecity, I typically grow all plants (usually 10 or 12) in 1 pot to purposely create root crowding and restrict upward growth. I also don't give much nitrogen either. The goal is for the finished plants to be no taller than 26 inches, (about 4 inches below the LED). Out of 10 plants, I'll select the best 3 or 4 females and cull the rest (keep cuttings of a couple males) after several weeks of flowering. Another trick to restrict upward growth is to bend the tallest branches to the point where they snap but don't break during the early flowering (stretchy) phase. This creates a knot on the stem and stops growth for a couple days while the plant repairs itself. Even in cases where the branch is partially broken, you can tape around it loosely with scotch tape (creating a splint) to ensure knot formation. I'll have to do quite a bit of this on Swazi/Red Congos to keep them from taking over the Burmese. I've been able to grow mostly sativa and sativa plants successfully under these conditions. Conditions aren't ideal, but a little creativity makes things work. A few of the strains I had grown outdoors years ago easily reached 8 to 10 feet.
As far as root aphids, I never had a problem before (hopefully I didn't just jinx myself).
...CR500AF...
Active member
I am starting to see this more and more many plants in one pot, i still use cubes to root then to so-lo cups (beer cups) to final pot.Not the best for saving space but it has worked for more then a few years at this point lol...
may get better yeilds if just do 1 or 2 and train them if space is a big issue.. but understand want to see more diversity. root binding and holding back nutrients isnt optimal for yeilds terps etc. could put right into flower aswell. but i suppose if u are growing super tall lanky sativas a topping and some training may not cut it. keep us posted now it turns out!
ya folks are moving to indoor no till organic type situations with large tubs taking up the bottom of the grow room.
ya folks are moving to indoor no till organic type situations with large tubs taking up the bottom of the grow room.
Swazi/Congos starting to dwarf the Burmese. I haven't grown such an indica looking plant as the Burmese in over 20 years. Disliked most indicas I've tried ,with the exception of one Purple Kush that was quite euphoric with very little dopyness. Unfortunately, it couldn't handle rainforest grows and I gave it away.
Anyway, gave the plants a little Cal/Mag and half strength grow nutrients and they seem to like it. Will reduce the light from cycle from 14 to 13 hours in a couple days. Typically, I start my mostly sativa or sativa plants at 13.5 or 13 hours of light and slowly reduce them to 10.5 or 10 hours of light by the end of flowering. In this case, I figured the Burmese coming from BC and California may need more light hours to start. Not too worried if the Burmese stay small, more interested in male pollen than maximizing their yield.
Anyway, gave the plants a little Cal/Mag and half strength grow nutrients and they seem to like it. Will reduce the light from cycle from 14 to 13 hours in a couple days. Typically, I start my mostly sativa or sativa plants at 13.5 or 13 hours of light and slowly reduce them to 10.5 or 10 hours of light by the end of flowering. In this case, I figured the Burmese coming from BC and California may need more light hours to start. Not too worried if the Burmese stay small, more interested in male pollen than maximizing their yield.
Attachments
sounds like a cool project, good luck!
Listening to Dubi interview on Potcast and based on his comments regarding the Chinese Yunan, it appears that the Burmese may be very closely related to it. More of a pleasant high and not so narcotic. He also mentions that unlike most Indicas (WLD for those liking that term), crosses with his Chinese and sativas do not impart
narcotic effects in the resulting hybrids and trend to a more up high. Based on what others have said online, it appears that Burmese crosses have similar effects in the progeny. He definitely made his ThaiChi strain very appealing.
It was also nice to hear that there are other indoor growers that try to match the native photoperiod of strain origins to the their grow lighting cycles. The 18 or 24 hour vegetative cycle and strict 12 hour flowering light cycle never made sense to me, coming from an outdoor growing background.
narcotic effects in the resulting hybrids and trend to a more up high. Based on what others have said online, it appears that Burmese crosses have similar effects in the progeny. He definitely made his ThaiChi strain very appealing.
It was also nice to hear that there are other indoor growers that try to match the native photoperiod of strain origins to the their grow lighting cycles. The 18 or 24 hour vegetative cycle and strict 12 hour flowering light cycle never made sense to me, coming from an outdoor growing background.
Swazi/Congo
Plants at 5 weeks from seeds. Decided to put them into flowering. Had to bend the stems on the Swazi/Congos last week to allow the Burmese to catch up and not get overtaken. 2 of the Burmese caught up enough to also get bent today. Hopefully this will allow the remaining Burmese to catch up. It takes a bit of manipulation to give all plants a fighting chance in a single pot.
Flowering schedule will be 11.5 hours on and 12.5 hours off. Based on my last 2 indoor grows, the pure Swazi won't flower until it has grown at least 7 weeks from seed, so I'm hoping that the influence of the Kabul Afghan (25%) in the Red Congolese portion will speed up the flowering onset and keep it from dwarfing the Burmese. We'll see.
I apologize for the photo arrangement. Can't figure out how to resort them.
Burmese
Plants at 5 weeks from seeds. Decided to put them into flowering. Had to bend the stems on the Swazi/Congos last week to allow the Burmese to catch up and not get overtaken. 2 of the Burmese caught up enough to also get bent today. Hopefully this will allow the remaining Burmese to catch up. It takes a bit of manipulation to give all plants a fighting chance in a single pot.
Flowering schedule will be 11.5 hours on and 12.5 hours off. Based on my last 2 indoor grows, the pure Swazi won't flower until it has grown at least 7 weeks from seed, so I'm hoping that the influence of the Kabul Afghan (25%) in the Red Congolese portion will speed up the flowering onset and keep it from dwarfing the Burmese. We'll see.
I apologize for the photo arrangement. Can't figure out how to resort them.
Burmese
Attachments
Plants at 6 weeks. The Burmese have all shown sex. 3 males and 2 females. I culled the smallest male and topped the 2 remaining males. Both have a great fruity smell when rubbing the stem. One's stem is also really hollow compared to the other. The Swazi/Congo has not shown anything yet (hopefully by the end of next week). Culled the smallest Swazi/Congo also. Down to 8 total plants. The root binding has helped slow down vertical growth. Had to bend/knot the Swazi/Congo stems 3 times and the 2 largest Burmese males once to keep all the plant tops at an even level under the light. From what I've read the Burmese does not stretch much in flowering, so I'll likely have to do more bending on the Swazi/Congos.
Will likely fully seed the Burmese and slightly seed the Swazi/Congos. The local shops that carried Burmese IBL in my area have been out of stock for this strain for a while and based on the smell, I definitely want to keep it around.
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Will likely fully seed the Burmese and slightly seed the Swazi/Congos. The local shops that carried Burmese IBL in my area have been out of stock for this strain for a while and based on the smell, I definitely want to keep it around.
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Plants at 7 weeks. Early Burmese male flowers have opened up. All 4 Swazi/Congos are females with only the first preflowers showing. It's interesting that all Swazis and Swazi/Congos from 10+ year old seeds have all turned female (Subject of another post). Pulled the males after hand pollinating the Burmese females. Also cut some males tops and left them to dry in the flowering chamber, for them to open up on their own and produce some additional pollen. Down to 6 females. Hoping for 50 or so Burmese seeds. Will likely only get 5 - 10 seeds crossed to the Swazi/Congos. Based on the calyx, pistil size and slow flowering onset, it's likely that the Swazi will be dominant in the Swazi/Congo cross.
Plan ts at week 10. The Burmese females are well seeded but getting seriously dwarfed by the Swazi/Congos. It looks like they will have at least 75 seeds. These plants are not a good match to grow together using my single pot grow style because the Swazi/Congos are so dominant. The stretch is finally slowing down on the Swazi/Congos. It's been a challenge to keep them under control and I've been bending the stem every other day. The stem is starting to look like a climbing rope, with knots every couple inches (or less) . The Burmese hardly stretched at since flowering. This is likely due not only to the strain genetics but also to being dominated in the pot by the Swazi/Congos. As far as smell, the Burmese has a nice faint fruity smell, while the Swazi/Congos smell a little spicier but still very faint.
Burmese in the foreground under the larger sativa bud canopy .
Swazi/Congo early buds;
Burmese Bud closeup. Yield will be paltry on these 2 but they'll have plenty of seeds for my needs. I also was able to clone 2/2 Burmese flowering tops. They'll be used to cross to my 11 year year old pure Swazi seeds (which for whatever reason refuse to produce males). Unfortunately, I can no longer find the Burmese/Swazi seeds crossed by Coastal seeds in the local shops. It would be nice to use those in crosses also.
Burmese in the foreground under the larger sativa bud canopy .
Swazi/Congo early buds;
Burmese Bud closeup. Yield will be paltry on these 2 but they'll have plenty of seeds for my needs. I also was able to clone 2/2 Burmese flowering tops. They'll be used to cross to my 11 year year old pure Swazi seeds (which for whatever reason refuse to produce males). Unfortunately, I can no longer find the Burmese/Swazi seeds crossed by Coastal seeds in the local shops. It would be nice to use those in crosses also.
Harvest update:
The Burmese grow with the Swazi (in retrospect,)was not a good idea. The Burmese grew poorly as it was thoroughly shaded and dominated by the Swazi/Congo, then started dying before many of the Burmese seeds were ripe. Managed to make 15 or so good Burmese seeds, Also got 10 or so BurmeseXSwaziXRed Congos.
The SwazixRed Congos had 3 distinct phenos: The first 2 phenos were harvested at 75 days of flowering. One more red haired and the other more Kushy looking. Reeferman's Red Congo is 1/4 Kabul Kush.
The last plant was harvested at day 95 and needed the last couple weeks turned down to 10 hours of light to fully ripen
Day 95 before chop:
The smelliest of all the plants. Had a strong almost Amonia smell, while the others had a more fruity smell.
Been smoking the early red haired pheno. The taste (after a one month cure) is more earthy than anything else and the smell is rather faint. The high is very energizing and perfect for activity. No paranoia and the feeling is all in the head. It provides a nice euphoric and motivating buzz . The high also slowly fades without a crash. I like it.
Will sample the more Kushy looking pheno this weekend.
The Burmese grow with the Swazi (in retrospect,)was not a good idea. The Burmese grew poorly as it was thoroughly shaded and dominated by the Swazi/Congo, then started dying before many of the Burmese seeds were ripe. Managed to make 15 or so good Burmese seeds, Also got 10 or so BurmeseXSwaziXRed Congos.
The SwazixRed Congos had 3 distinct phenos: The first 2 phenos were harvested at 75 days of flowering. One more red haired and the other more Kushy looking. Reeferman's Red Congo is 1/4 Kabul Kush.
The last plant was harvested at day 95 and needed the last couple weeks turned down to 10 hours of light to fully ripen
Day 95 before chop:
The smelliest of all the plants. Had a strong almost Amonia smell, while the others had a more fruity smell.
Been smoking the early red haired pheno. The taste (after a one month cure) is more earthy than anything else and the smell is rather faint. The high is very energizing and perfect for activity. No paranoia and the feeling is all in the head. It provides a nice euphoric and motivating buzz . The high also slowly fades without a crash. I like it.
Will sample the more Kushy looking pheno this weekend.
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