BUILDING YOUR OWN E&F FROM WOOD AT HOME DEPOT

[moses224]

BUILDING YOUR OWN SYSTEM
The following illustrations are of some fairly simple hydroponic
systems. Something to keep in mind when building your own system:
always obtain all the parts and materials before starting. Otherwise you
might find that you have drilled the drainage hole a certain diameter
and that you can't find the right size plug to fit it. For such things as
pumps, timers and tubing, as well as other materials connected with
hydroponics, consult the Resource List at the back of this book.
Figure 2 is probably the simplest hydroponic system you can make.
Using 3/4 inch plywood, make a box 7 inches deep, 16 inches wide and
24 inches long (all outside dimensions). Fasten the box with wood
screws, allowing for the fact that the contents will be heavy. Drill two
1/2 inch holes on one end wall 1/2 inch from the inside bottom.
Line the inside of the box with polyethelene or fibreglass and fit
two removable plugs. On the opposite end from the drainage plugs, a
1 inch strip of plywood can be nailed to the bottom. This will sit the
tank on an angle and ensure adequate drainage.
This same system can be made using a plastic dishpan or any other
waterproof container. It is essential, however, that any material you use
for a hydroponic tank is inert, so that no chemical reaction is passed on
into your food chain.
For this system, use a 1 inch deep drainage bed of large pieces of
broken pottery or rocks that are approximately 3/4 of an inch in size.
The size is important to ensure proper drainage and so that the drain
holes don't get plugged with the smaller growing medium.
Figure 3 is a manually operated system and is only slightly more
automated than that shown in Figure 2.
A pail with a hose attached and sealed at the joints is connected
to the growing bed. Raise the pail above the tank to allow a gravity feed
of the nutrient solution into the bed. After a half-hour, set the pail on
the floor so gravity will drain the solution back into it. The growing bed
must be on a table or shelf to allow you to move the pail the proper distance
above and below the tank. Be sure that the size of the pail is adequate
to flood the system.
Figure 4 is one answer for the many people who ask what to do
with an old aquarium. The two main ingredients to make this kind of
system function well are a good strong net and a very light growing
medium. Burlap and perlite would be a good combination.
The illustration is self-explanatory, but a few suggestions are
in order. When starting seeds or seedlings, the water should barely
touch the seed bed. As the roots develop and penetrate the screen
into the water, gradually reduce the water level. Roots like air and
dislike light, so use your old aquarium pump to aerate the water and
cover the outside of the tank with dark material to keep out the light.
Make the cover removable, so you can keep a close eye on everything.
The complete plans in Figure 5 are meant for the serious
enthusiast who wants to build a system from the ground up. While
the plans are somewhat involved, the unit is not that difficult to
make and will last for many years. If the nutrient solution is removed,
the system can be carried outdoors in the spring and back inside in
the autumn.

Materials
1 sheet 3/4 inch plywood
80 oz. fibreglass resin
2-1/2 yards of fibreglass cloth "panelling"
5 yards of fibreglass cloth "joining"
1 NKl "Little Giant" (No Korode) submersible pump
1 piece of arborite, 16-1/4 by 46 inches
1 piece of arborite, 14-1/4 by 15 inches (funnel segment)
10 feet of 1/2 inch plastic tubing (irrigation hose)
6 feet of 1/2 inch plastic tubing (siphon hose for system flushing)
1 box of 2 inch wood screws
1 jar of bonding glue
Substitutions
1. It is easier to use 1 by 3 for the crosspieces than plywood.
Simply rip a piece of 1 by 3 for the 1/2 inch strip as well as the
retention strips.
2. Look in the Yellow Pages under "Plastics—Vacuum Forming."
The chances are that you will be able to buy a piece of plastic
.60 thick to use for the separator plate and the funnel segment.
Suggestions
1. Glue all joints before screwing together.
2. Use 5-3/4 inch centres on the crosspieces (i.e., the centre of one hole
to the centre of the next is 5-3/4 inches). You will have a much narrower
section at the opposite end to the pump well, but there is more
growing medium at that end.
3. Apply three coats of fibreglass resin to the interior.
4. After making and fibreglassing the tank, fill it with water to
check for leaks.
5. The volume capacity of the growing bed is 2-1/2 cubic feet.
6. Be sure the unit is level.
7. If you see roots in the irrigation tubes or drain holes in the
funnel segment, either remove them or cut them out.
8. We have found that fibreglass cloth panelling, except for comers and
joints, is unnecessary for quality. A lot of time is required to use the
cloth and does not provide significant benefits.
Observations
The NKl pump mentioned in the materials list features a highly
corrosion resistant motor housing made of metal and glass-filled
polymer which aids in heat dissipation. The pump is designed to
be used in mild acids, alkalies and hard water. The NKl pumps
171 Imperial or 205 U.S. gallons per hour with a one foot head.
These pumps must be submerged to operate.
The fact is that the size of pump you use and where you place
your system will have a bearing on irrigation and moisture retention
in the growing bed. For these reasons, you will have to keep a
close eye on the operation of your system until you can establish
precise requirements. If your unit is outdoors in the sun, it will
have a much higher evaporation rate on the surface of the growing
bed than either indoors or in the shade. In this situation, you may
find it necessary to keep your pump on all the time. On the other
hand, if you find that the flow of nutrient is too fast (i.e., it floods
the unit too much), you can pinch off the header hose a bit with a
clamp.
If the unit is made to plan, there is sufficient drainage at all
times that the pump could be left on during the period your
lights are on or, in the case of the outdoors, daylight hours. This
would remove the need for a timer for the pump. Simply turn
on the pump and lights (indoors) when you get up in the
morning and shut them off before you go to bed. If your lifestyle
does not permit you to be relatively consistent in this routine, or
if you are away frequently for a day or two at a time, then a
grounded timer such as the Intermatic EB41 can be purchased
along with a 3-way plug, which would accommodate both the
pump and lights.
Try using a 2 inch deep bed of coarse vermiculite sandwiched
between 2 layers each 1-1/2 to 2 inches of stones or gravel for
your growing bed. This will maintain higher water retention
nearer the roots and make the total cost of the growing medium
less expensive.
IRRIGATION
Because of its efficiency and ease of operation, I prefer a constant flow
system, but if the one you build uses the drip from above or flood and
drain method, then you must pay careful attention to four requirements:
1. Suitable daily pumping periods
2. Pumping intervals
3. Duration of irrigation
4. Nutrient solution depth
If you are pumping once a day, you should do it during the warmest
part of the day, usually afternoon, the period of greatest plant transpiration.
This will help overcome the problem of wilting. If you are
pumping twice a day, then maintain this first period and add an early
morning feeding. For three times a day, add an early evening period.
With an automatic system, it is simple to use a grounded timer (safer
than an ungrounded one) to regulate these feedings. If your system is
manual, and no one is available after mid-day, then it is better to feed in
the morning than at night.
Required pumping intervals depend on a number of factors, such
as what you are growing; plant size; water retention, or lack of it, in the
growing or drainage medium; and the climate, including temperature
and humidity. Tomatoes will require a far greater amount of water than
lettuce, for example, and porous stones, more water than vermiculite or
perlite. Hot, dry conditions cause more rapid evaporation than a cool
and humid atmosphere. Your plants will use greater amounts of water
than nutrient, assuming you are using a correct solution, because the
nutrient does not evaporate with the water. Therefore, the water
requirements of your plants and your aggregate are the prime considerations
in calculating pumping intervals. One to six times per day would
not be unreasonable.
The most common approach to the duration of irrigation is onehalf
hour for a flood system. You should try to drain the system as
quickly as possible after this time to prevent possible shock to the roots.
If the rate is too slow, the roots will be immersed for too long and there
will be a corresponding lack of aeration. If you have a flood system outdoors
in hot weather with plenty of tomatoes or similar plants, the
plants will require a lot of water, and six feedings of one hour duration
would not be unreasonable.
The depth of the nutrient solution depends to a certain extent on
the kinds of plants you are growing and their sizes. Both the drip from
above and the flood and drain methods give rise to algae growth if the
surface is constantly moistened, but bringing the solution level almost
to the top is unavoidable when seeds and seedlings are present. In fact,
you must be careful to raise the level high enough to moisten the seeds',
but not so high that they are covered completely, only to be washed
deeply into the aggregate during drainage. If algae starts to grow on the
surface of your growing bed, you can eliminate it by providing more
aeration to the top one inch of the bed, by making the surface less
moist, or by removing the light source (if possible) for a few days. I do
not recommend the use of algaecides such as the ones used in fish
aquariums and ponds. Permanganese and other similar substances are
poisonous and can be transferred into your food chain.
Manufactured Systems
To give some idea of the differences between homemade and commercially
available systems, the following drawings show the City Green
constant flow, manufactured hydroponic unit. The use of such a system,
particularly as a novice, will assist you in learning about hydroponics
and in getting early results. Although a commercially-made system,
such as the City Green unit, may not be available in your area, it would
take only a small amount of ingenuity for you to copy the design for personal
use but not for commercial sales.
Figures 6, 7 and 8 show the "City Green" home system. It incorporates
a 3 inch deep growing tray set into the nutrient reservoir tank,
both made of strong, lightweight, vacuum-formed plastic.
Each tank should be approximately 24 inches by 16 inches and 9
inches deep. With the 3 inch growing tray, you are left with a 6 inch
deep water reservoir.
Do not make the tanks longer than 16 inches or the air pump will
be incapable of pushing the water to the end of the irrigation hoses. You
can, however, by using another windshield wiper fitting operate a
maximum of two tanks from one aeration pump.
Should you use two tanks and one pump, do not allow the water
levels in the two tanks to vary more than an inch or two or the tank
with the greater amount of water will fail to pump.
Instead of a 3 inch deep growing tray, you could follow a similar
method as the large system in Figure 5. That is, a 1/2 inch plywood strip
around the inside perimeter of the tank that allows a 1/8 inch sheet of
plastic or arborite to be used as a separate plate. Be sure to use about
three crosspieces for support of the growing medium.
perforated irrigation tubes are attached. The air travelling through the
air hose and entering the water hose acts with a venturi effect to lift the
nutrient solution from the bottom of the tank up into the growing bed.
The growing tray has several 1/8 inch holes drilled in it to allow
drainage.
A 1 inch thick layer of coarse vermiculite is placed between two 1
inch layers of growing medium (expanded oil shale). The perforated
plastic tubes are buried to about the bottom of the top layer of growing
medium. This holds them in place. If the tubes were on the surface, it
would be too moist and an algae build-up would result.
An air hose is attached to an aquarium pump that is set on the
floor, and it is inserted into the funnel segment down into the tank. The
hose is then passed through a small tunnel in the reservoir which
anchors it to the bottom (otherwise it would float and be ineffective),
and is passed up through a hole drilled in the growing tray where the
A. Irrigation hoses 3/8 inches outside diameter, 3 inches apart; use an
electric drill and drill through only one wall of the tube, not both walls.
Be sure the holes are not burred on the inside or the water will not flow
smoothly.
B. Water hose 14 inches long, 5/8 inches outside diameter.
C. Air hose 8 feet long, 1/8 inch diameter to fit onto the aquarium
pump, inserted approximately 6 inches into the water hose.
D. Windshield wiper t-fitting. Cut a 1 inch piece of the irrigation
hose to insert into the water hose snugly. This will then fit onto the
t-fitting at D.
E. A 1 -1/2 inch pin forced through the two hoses and bent back to
hold them in place.
Likely the simplest of all hydroponic systems developed in recent years
is the N.F.T or Nutrient Film Technique. We have our British friends to
thank for the idea of foregoing the use of a growing medium.
By taking any length of 5 or 6 inch PVC tubing and plugging the
ends, the same length of plastic film or sheet is set into the tube into which
seedlings are placed. The film is then folded up above the root system and
stapled. (See Figure 9) This prevents light from obstructing the growth,
development and function of the root system. Remember, the root
system must not be exposed to continuous direct light.
Build a rack to support as many tubes as you have room for. For
your ideas look at how a boat-trailer is designed to hold a roundbottomed
boat.
If plants become too weak or spindly to support themselves, i.e.,
tomatoes, peppers, etc., the tops of the plants can be lightly tied with
string and fastened above to a beam, the unit above it, or the ceiling.
This will provide the support that is normally available from the soil.
Seedlings, started in a combination of half fine vermiculite and
half peat moss, show an excellent rate of growth. When the seedlings
have sufficiently developed, they can be placed, growing medium and
all, right into the trough inside the plastic film.
The N.F.T. system has been used throughout the world in commercial
operations. The only difference separating the domestic from
the commercial method is in the watering application. Where the commercial
systems use computers to feed and water the plants, you will use
a gravity-feed system, a small pump, or feed and water by hand.
If you water by hand, put about one inch of nutrient solution in
the tray for one-half hour and then drain. You can keep reusing the
solution for a week. Watch for wilting plants and govern the number of
feedings per day accordingly. The plants will likely require three or four
feedings a day. Be sure the tray is level.
If you build several trays and stack them, you would use a nutrient
reservoir with a small submersible pump that sends water to the topmost
unit. By inclining each tray about 4 degrees, the solution can gravityfeed
back to the nutrient tank. A timer could pump the solution three or
four times a day for one-hour duration each, freeing you to go on holidays
for a couple of weeks. The plastic tubing cemented in the bottom of
each tray (Figure 10) allows the free-flow of nutrient solution.
While you are deciding whether to build or buy a home hydroponic
unit, it would be a good idea to do a little studying about nutrients. No
matter what kind of system you choose, nutrients will be an integral part
of your success, because your plants must be constantly supplied with
food.
Using the formulae given in this chapter, you will be able to mix
your own nutrients in either large or small amounts. As in Chapter 2,
however, I recommend that the novice begin with a commercially
available, pre-mixed nutrient at least until a feel for hydroponics has
been developed.
Nature does a lot of the work in soil gardening, although often not
perfectly, or farmers would not have to use fertilizers. Almost all soil has
some nutrients in it, but when you are growing hydroponically, you are
taking over from nature, and in many instances it is possible for you to
improve the quality of nutrients supplied.
BUILDING YOUR OWN SYSTEM
The following illustrations are of some fairly simple hydroponic
systems. Something to keep in mind when building your own system:
always obtain all the parts and materials before starting. Otherwise you
might find that you have drilled the drainage hole a certain diameter
and that you can't find the right size plug to fit it. For such things as
pumps, timers and tubing, as well as other materials connected with
hydroponics, consult the Resource List at the back of this book.
Figure 2 is probably the simplest hydroponic system you can make.
Using 3/4 inch plywood, make a box 7 inches deep, 16 inches wide and
24 inches long (all outside dimensions). Fasten the box with wood
screws, allowing for the fact that the contents will be heavy. Drill two
1/2 inch holes on one end wall 1/2 inch from the inside bottom.
Line the inside of the box with polyethelene or fibreglass and fit
two removable plugs. On the opposite end from the drainage plugs, a
1 inch strip of plywood can be nailed to the bottom. This will sit the
tank on an angle and ensure adequate drainage.
This same system can be made using a plastic dishpan or any other
waterproof container. It is essential, however, that any material you use
for a hydroponic tank is inert, so that no chemical reaction is passed on
into your food chain.
For this system, use a 1 inch deep drainage bed of large pieces of
broken pottery or rocks that are approximately 3/4 of an inch in size.
The size is important to ensure proper drainage and so that the drain
holes don't get plugged with the smaller growing medium.
Figure 3 is a manually operated system and is only slightly more
automated than that shown in Figure 2.
A pail with a hose attached and sealed at the joints is connected
to the growing bed. Raise the pail above the tank to allow a gravity feed
of the nutrient solution into the bed. After a half-hour, set the pail on
the floor so gravity will drain the solution back into it. The growing bed
must be on a table or shelf to allow you to move the pail the proper distance
above and below the tank. Be sure that the size of the pail is adequate
to flood the system.
Figure 4 is one answer for the many people who ask what to do
with an old aquarium. The two main ingredients to make this kind of
system function well are a good strong net and a very light growing
medium. Burlap and perlite would be a good combination.
The illustration is self-explanatory, but a few suggestions are
in order. When starting seeds or seedlings, the water should barely
touch the seed bed. As the roots develop and penetrate the screen
into the water, gradually reduce the water level. Roots like air and
dislike light, so use your old aquarium pump to aerate the water and
cover the outside of the tank with dark material to keep out the light.
Make the cover removable, so you can keep a close eye on everything.
The complete plans in Figure 5 are meant for the serious
enthusiast who wants to build a system from the ground up. While
the plans are somewhat involved, the unit is not that difficult to
make and will last for many years. If the nutrient solution is removed,
the system can be carried outdoors in the spring and back inside in
the autumn.

Materials
1 sheet 3/4 inch plywood
80 oz. fibreglass resin
2-1/2 yards of fibreglass cloth "panelling"
5 yards of fibreglass cloth "joining"
1 NKl "Little Giant" (No Korode) submersible pump
1 piece of arborite, 16-1/4 by 46 inches
1 piece of arborite, 14-1/4 by 15 inches (funnel segment)
10 feet of 1/2 inch plastic tubing (irrigation hose)
6 feet of 1/2 inch plastic tubing (siphon hose for system flushing)
1 box of 2 inch wood screws
1 jar of bonding glue
Substitutions
1. It is easier to use 1 by 3 for the crosspieces than plywood.
Simply rip a piece of 1 by 3 for the 1/2 inch strip as well as the
retention strips.
2. Look in the Yellow Pages under "Plastics—Vacuum Forming."
The chances are that you will be able to buy a piece of plastic
.60 thick to use for the separator plate and the funnel segment.
Suggestions
1. Glue all joints before screwing together.
2. Use 5-3/4 inch centres on the crosspieces (i.e., the centre of one hole
to the centre of the next is 5-3/4 inches). You will have a much narrower
section at the opposite end to the pump well, but there is more
growing medium at that end.
3. Apply three coats of fibreglass resin to the interior.
4. After making and fibreglassing the tank, fill it with water to
check for leaks.
5. The volume capacity of the growing bed is 2-1/2 cubic feet.
6. Be sure the unit is level.
7. If you see roots in the irrigation tubes or drain holes in the
funnel segment, either remove them or cut them out.
8. We have found that fibreglass cloth panelling, except for comers and
joints, is unnecessary for quality. A lot of time is required to use the
cloth and does not provide significant benefits.
Observations
The NKl pump mentioned in the materials list features a highly
corrosion resistant motor housing made of metal and glass-filled
polymer which aids in heat dissipation. The pump is designed to
be used in mild acids, alkalies and hard water. The NKl pumps
171 Imperial or 205 U.S. gallons per hour with a one foot head.
These pumps must be submerged to operate.
The fact is that the size of pump you use and where you place
your system will have a bearing on irrigation and moisture retention
in the growing bed. For these reasons, you will have to keep a
close eye on the operation of your system until you can establish
precise requirements. If your unit is outdoors in the sun, it will
have a much higher evaporation rate on the surface of the growing
bed than either indoors or in the shade. In this situation, you may
find it necessary to keep your pump on all the time. On the other
hand, if you find that the flow of nutrient is too fast (i.e., it floods
the unit too much), you can pinch off the header hose a bit with a
clamp.
If the unit is made to plan, there is sufficient drainage at all
times that the pump could be left on during the period your
lights are on or, in the case of the outdoors, daylight hours. This
would remove the need for a timer for the pump. Simply turn
on the pump and lights (indoors) when you get up in the
morning and shut them off before you go to bed. If your lifestyle
does not permit you to be relatively consistent in this routine, or
if you are away frequently for a day or two at a time, then a
grounded timer such as the Intermatic EB41 can be purchased
along with a 3-way plug, which would accommodate both the
pump and lights.
Try using a 2 inch deep bed of coarse vermiculite sandwiched
between 2 layers each 1-1/2 to 2 inches of stones or gravel for
your growing bed. This will maintain higher water retention
nearer the roots and make the total cost of the growing medium
less expensive.
IRRIGATION
Because of its efficiency and ease of operation, I prefer a constant flow
system, but if the one you build uses the drip from above or flood and
drain method, then you must pay careful attention to four requirements:
1. Suitable daily pumping periods
2. Pumping intervals
3. Duration of irrigation
4. Nutrient solution depth
If you are pumping once a day, you should do it during the warmest
part of the day, usually afternoon, the period of greatest plant transpiration.
This will help overcome the problem of wilting. If you are
pumping twice a day, then maintain this first period and add an early
morning feeding. For three times a day, add an early evening period.
With an automatic system, it is simple to use a grounded timer (safer
than an ungrounded one) to regulate these feedings. If your system is
manual, and no one is available after mid-day, then it is better to feed in
the morning than at night.
Required pumping intervals depend on a number of factors, such
as what you are growing; plant size; water retention, or lack of it, in the
growing or drainage medium; and the climate, including temperature
and humidity. Tomatoes will require a far greater amount of water than
lettuce, for example, and porous stones, more water than vermiculite or
perlite. Hot, dry conditions cause more rapid evaporation than a cool
and humid atmosphere. Your plants will use greater amounts of water
than nutrient, assuming you are using a correct solution, because the
nutrient does not evaporate with the water. Therefore, the water
requirements of your plants and your aggregate are the prime considerations
in calculating pumping intervals. One to six times per day would
not be unreasonable.
The most common approach to the duration of irrigation is onehalf
hour for a flood system. You should try to drain the system as
quickly as possible after this time to prevent possible shock to the roots.
If the rate is too slow, the roots will be immersed for too long and there
will be a corresponding lack of aeration. If you have a flood system outdoors
in hot weather with plenty of tomatoes or similar plants, the
plants will require a lot of water, and six feedings of one hour duration
would not be unreasonable.
The depth of the nutrient solution depends to a certain extent on
the kinds of plants you are growing and their sizes. Both the drip from
above and the flood and drain methods give rise to algae growth if the
surface is constantly moistened, but bringing the solution level almost
to the top is unavoidable when seeds and seedlings are present. In fact,
you must be careful to raise the level high enough to moisten the seeds',
but not so high that they are covered completely, only to be washed
deeply into the aggregate during drainage. If algae starts to grow on the
surface of your growing bed, you can eliminate it by providing more
aeration to the top one inch of the bed, by making the surface less
moist, or by removing the light source (if possible) for a few days. I do
not recommend the use of algaecides such as the ones used in fish
aquariums and ponds. Permanganese and other similar substances are
poisonous and can be transferred into your food chain.
Manufactured Systems
To give some idea of the differences between homemade and commercially
available systems, the following drawings show the City Green
constant flow, manufactured hydroponic unit. The use of such a system,
particularly as a novice, will assist you in learning about hydroponics
and in getting early results. Although a commercially-made system,
such as the City Green unit, may not be available in your area, it would
take only a small amount of ingenuity for you to copy the design for personal
use but not for commercial sales.
Figures 6, 7 and 8 show the "City Green" home system. It incorporates
a 3 inch deep growing tray set into the nutrient reservoir tank,
both made of strong, lightweight, vacuum-formed plastic.
Each tank should be approximately 24 inches by 16 inches and 9
inches deep. With the 3 inch growing tray, you are left with a 6 inch
deep water reservoir.
Do not make the tanks longer than 16 inches or the air pump will
be incapable of pushing the water to the end of the irrigation hoses. You
can, however, by using another windshield wiper fitting operate a
maximum of two tanks from one aeration pump.
Should you use two tanks and one pump, do not allow the water
levels in the two tanks to vary more than an inch or two or the tank
with the greater amount of water will fail to pump.
Instead of a 3 inch deep growing tray, you could follow a similar
method as the large system in Figure 5. That is, a 1/2 inch plywood strip
around the inside perimeter of the tank that allows a 1/8 inch sheet of
plastic or arborite to be used as a separate plate. Be sure to use about
three crosspieces for support of the growing medium.
perforated irrigation tubes are attached. The air travelling through the
air hose and entering the water hose acts with a venturi effect to lift the
nutrient solution from the bottom of the tank up into the growing bed.
The growing tray has several 1/8 inch holes drilled in it to allow
drainage.
A 1 inch thick layer of coarse vermiculite is placed between two 1
inch layers of growing medium (expanded oil shale). The perforated
plastic tubes are buried to about the bottom of the top layer of growing
medium. This holds them in place. If the tubes were on the surface, it
would be too moist and an algae build-up would result.
An air hose is attached to an aquarium pump that is set on the
floor, and it is inserted into the funnel segment down into the tank. The
hose is then passed through a small tunnel in the reservoir which
anchors it to the bottom (otherwise it would float and be ineffective),
and is passed up through a hole drilled in the growing tray where the
A. Irrigation hoses 3/8 inches outside diameter, 3 inches apart; use an
electric drill and drill through only one wall of the tube, not both walls.
Be sure the holes are not burred on the inside or the water will not flow
smoothly.
B. Water hose 14 inches long, 5/8 inches outside diameter.
C. Air hose 8 feet long, 1/8 inch diameter to fit onto the aquarium
pump, inserted approximately 6 inches into the water hose.
D. Windshield wiper t-fitting. Cut a 1 inch piece of the irrigation
hose to insert into the water hose snugly. This will then fit onto the
t-fitting at D.
E. A 1 -1/2 inch pin forced through the two hoses and bent back to
hold them in place.
Likely the simplest of all hydroponic systems developed in recent years
is the N.F.T or Nutrient Film Technique. We have our British friends to
thank for the idea of foregoing the use of a growing medium.
By taking any length of 5 or 6 inch PVC tubing and plugging the
ends, the same length of plastic film or sheet is set into the tube into which
seedlings are placed. The film is then folded up above the root system and
stapled. (See Figure 9) This prevents light from obstructing the growth,
development and function of the root system. Remember, the root
system must not be exposed to continuous direct light.
Build a rack to support as many tubes as you have room for. For
your ideas look at how a boat-trailer is designed to hold a roundbottomed
boat.
If plants become too weak or spindly to support themselves, i.e.,
tomatoes, peppers, etc., the tops of the plants can be lightly tied with
string and fastened above to a beam, the unit above it, or the ceiling.
This will provide the support that is normally available from the soil.
Seedlings, started in a combination of half fine vermiculite and
half peat moss, show an excellent rate of growth. When the seedlings
have sufficiently developed, they can be placed, growing medium and
all, right into the trough inside the plastic film.
The N.F.T. system has been used throughout the world in commercial
operations. The only difference separating the domestic from
the commercial method is in the watering application. Where the commercial
systems use computers to feed and water the plants, you will use
a gravity-feed system, a small pump, or feed and water by hand.
If you water by hand, put about one inch of nutrient solution in
the tray for one-half hour and then drain. You can keep reusing the
solution for a week. Watch for wilting plants and govern the number of
feedings per day accordingly. The plants will likely require three or four
feedings a day. Be sure the tray is level.
If you build several trays and stack them, you would use a nutrient
reservoir with a small submersible pump that sends water to the topmost
unit. By inclining each tray about 4 degrees, the solution can gravityfeed
back to the nutrient tank. A timer could pump the solution three or
four times a day for one-hour duration each, freeing you to go on holidays
for a couple of weeks. The plastic tubing cemented in the bottom of
each tray (Figure 10) allows the free-flow of nutrient solution.
While you are deciding whether to build or buy a home hydroponic
unit, it would be a good idea to do a little studying about nutrients. No
matter what kind of system you choose, nutrients will be an integral part
of your success, because your plants must be constantly supplied with
food.
Using the formulae given in this chapter, you will be able to mix
your own nutrients in either large or small amounts. As in Chapter 2,
however, I recommend that the novice begin with a commercially
available, pre-mixed nutrient at least until a feel for hydroponics has
been developed.
Nature does a lot of the work in soil gardening, although often not
perfectly, or farmers would not have to use fertilizers. Almost all soil has
some nutrients in it, but when you are growing hydroponically, you are
taking over from nature, and in many instances it is possible for you to
improve the quality of nutrients supplied.

 

[BevoLabs]

Not a single illustration. Fail.

 

[moses224]

yea the book i bought and typed this from didnt have poics...its self explanatory i mean one flatiece of plywood with 4 sides. thats it

 

[FirstTracks]

Moses: thanks for typin this all out. your time and effort is appreciated

 

[BubsNugs]

Right on looks intresting...damn dude u typed that all in?? Thanks a lot for makin the effort thats a lotta typin

Peace

 

[moses224]

Many people who enjoy working with their hands, making things, gain
tremendous satisfaction from what they create and deplore spending
money on a manufactured product. To these people, I say study the
diagrams given here and enjoy yourselves. There are at least as many
others, however, who would rather concentrate on the actual growing
of hydroponic plants and who would prefer to buy a system that they
know will work.
One of the wonderful aspects of hydroponics is that there are no
limits to the inventiveness of the builder or even the buyer of a system.
Try anything that you think will work. If it doesn't, you can always alter
your procedure, and you will have gained valuable information in the
process. Even the most knowledgeable user is constantly trying new
methods, different nutrients, many varieties of plant life and wide
ranging applications of all the necessary components of hydroponics. If
there is a single word that sums up the best approach to hydroponics, it
is experimentation.
If you decide to build your own system, remember that hydroponics
is more a science than an art. To get satisfactory results from a
homemade system, much more is required than a box to hold plant life.
There are four approaches to hydroponic gardening:
1. Growing outdoors as farmers do but using a hydroponic system
rather than soil
2. Growing hydroponically indoors
3. A combination of these two, the year-round garden
4. Growing hydroponically in a greenhouse.
The more you substitute for nature, the more complicated these
methods become. When plants are removed from their natural environment,
as in indoor gardening, then all aspects of that environment
have to be duplicated by artificial or technical means. The important
thing to recognize in any of these methods is what is taken away and
what needs to be replaced. There is no substitute for natural sunlight,
for instance, although there are adequate replacements. This is why I
recommend that your year-round garden be portable so that it can be
moved outside in summer.
Chapter 3 deals extensively with nutrients, because when
growing hydroponically this is the most obvious part of the environment
we are removing. Should you decide to confine your growing
only to the outdoors, then you needn't know a great deal about lighting,
temperature and humidity controls, pollination, or any other scientific
matters other than nutrients. However, the remaining three
approaches do require a working knowledge of all these things. Simply
put, pay attention to the environment around your crop, or you won't
have a crop. For example, I have received hundreds of letters and
phone calls from people saying that they had numerous flowers on
their vines indoors, but that the flowers died and fell off before any
fruit formed. Their answers to a few questions told me that they knew
nothing about pollination or cross-pollination. These are simple tasks
that wind and insects usually do, but when the plants are moved
indoors, the individual must take over.
There is no reason to be intimidated by pollination and other
rather scientific terms; the procedures are simple, and they are covered
fully in Chapter 10. The point is that you do have to know how. Hydroponics
is a science and there is a considerable amount of knowledge
that must be acquired. For these reasons, I usually suggest a manufactured
system to the novice who chooses to grow a year-round garden or
indoors exclusively. The reason is simple: if you start growing hydroponically
with a system that is only partially effective, when you start
having problems it is more difficult to ascertain whether the trouble is
with the system, the quality of nutrient or the environment. You know
a manufactured system works, and any problems you encounter will be
environmental. You can therefore concentrate your learning in the area
of the plants' requirements.
The person who spends thirty dollars making a simple hydroponic
system may discover that seven days a week, three times a day, he or she
must be available to pour nutrient over the aggregate. For the busy citydweller,
this could be a hassle. He or she could have purchased a workable
system, experimented a little, gained biological knowledge, got the
"feel" of hydroponics and been ready to branch out to build a system
suited to the individual's needs.
1 don't mean to downgrade the homebuilt system, as the following
diagrams and plans show. These remarks are meant as cautions only,
because there is nothing more unfortunate than losing an enthusiastic
novice due to problems that might have been solved by starting with a
manufactured system.
Unfortunately, the recession of 1982 drove out of business many
companies that were selling and/or manufacturing hydroponic systems.
The resource list has been updated with regional suppliers. Check your
local Yellow Pages for other suppliers in your area. Those fortunate
enough to locate a local supplier will still be able to make a choice.
Those without a choice will simply have to build. In order to facilitate
this, I have further explained the patented irrigation method of my
City Green system in Figure 8.
Simple Hydroponic Systems
When building your own system, keep in mind that there are really only
two things you are trying to accomplish. The first is a structure that
permits support for the root system, and the second is a method of supplying
nutrient and aeration to your plants. Every system must begin by
satisfying these two requirements. After these requirements are met
what we try to achieve is a more sophisticated and automatic method.
For the simplest systems, all you need is a waterproof container
filled with some kind of growing medium or aggregate for root support.
Into the aggregate you place seeds or young plants whose roots have
been washed of soil. Then you pour a nutrient solution over the aggregate
to feed the plants. This is hydroponics!
This simple system is not essentially different from the one used in
the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, and in its operation we find that
several problems arise. It is these problems and the solutions to them
that have resulted in the development of more sophisticated automated
systems.
The first problem concerns just how much nutrient to pour over
the aggregate. Assuming that the container is waterproof and that the
inside bottom of it can't be seen through the walls or down through the
aggregate, it is very difficult to gauge the amount or level of nutrient
solution. Without this information, it is quite likely that the plants will
be killed by either under or overfilling. The only simple solution to
this problem is the use of a see-through container, a transparent inspection
window or a float system that will allow a visual check of the
nutrient level. Otherwise, you must employ a semi or fully automatic
system.
The second problem is how often to pour nutrient over the aggregate.
Should you decide to "water" your plants hydroponically as you de
your house plants, once or twice a week say, you would probably kill
everything. Given similar evaporation rates, the nutrient solution will
evaporate from the loose aggregate much more quickly than water from
soil. Generally speaking, you would have to supply nutrient to your
plants about once a day. This would mean you couldn't even go away for
a weekend or your hydroponic plants would begin to suffer. The more
simple the system, the more frequently someone will have to be available
to add nutrient solution. Anywhere from one to four times a day
will be necessary depending on light, temperature, humidity, what is
being grown, how large your plants are and the size of your container.
A third problem involves proper aeration for the roots. In soil,
worms usually perform this function, except, of course, for house
plants. One of the major reasons for using hydroponic aggregate is to
permit aeration.
AGGREGATES
Aggregates come in many forms: small rounded stones, broken tiles,
crushed stone, perlite, slate chips, vermiculite, expanded oil shale and
lava stones. Because the growing medium must perform the two functions
of support and aeration, the lighter and more porous it is, the
better. Actually, almost anything can be used as an aggregate, but the
builders and owners of home systems are more limited than commercial
growers in the kinds of materials that they can use. Perlite is a bit light,
floats somewhat and builds up heat, so it is not as good as some other
materials. Vermiculite holds considerable moisture and this can be a
real problem for your plants under certain conditions. Broken tiles or
pottery can have sharp edges that might damage root systems. Crushed
stones or gravel will likely lack porosity and could have lime bases
which would be detrimental to your pH level (see Chapter 4).
Of all these materials, haydite seems to me to be preferable. It is an
expanded oil shale that has been processed for agricultural purposes.
Like lava stones, it has the advantage of being extremely porous for
aeration, while at the same time it is capable of holding satisfactory
quantities of water. If not processed, both materials must be washed
repeatedly in a bucket until the water runs clear to remove accumulated
dust and dirt.
Processed haydite is not available in all areas, so you will probably
end up using a locally available material or ordering haydite from one of
the suppliers listed at the back of this book. In certain locations, haydite
may be sold under other names, such as herculite, and it is worth
checking with a dealer to find this out. The one drawback of haydite is
that it is heavy and consequently expensive to ship.
If you use gravel, broken tiles or haydite, try to keep the pieces no
larger than about three-eighths of an inch. Smaller pieces will not give
sufficient aeration, larger pieces will hold insufficient moisture.
DRAINAGE
The strength of nutrient solution used and the frequency with which it is
applied are both important, as we have seen, but adequate drainage is
absolutely essential. Plant roots can only remain submerged in the
nutrient solution for a few hours without air before they begin to suffer.
In the simplest systems, drainage may be achieved by simply
pouring off the solution or drilling small, strategically placed holes in
the container to allow run-off. Such drainage methods, however,
require considerable attention and experimentation, and the more we
become involved in hydroponics, the more we look for methods of
feeding that are less time-consuming.
There are three basic types of automatic, labour-saving feeding
and drainage systems:
1. Drip from above (primarily for commercial applications, not
too practical for the home)
2. Flood and drain (or sub-irrigation); see figures 2, 4 and 7
3. Constant flow; see figure 8.
I prefer the third method, because the root system is constantly and
gently sprayed with nutrient solution and drainage is almost immediate.
The simplest mechanical means of achieving constant flow is by using
either an air pump or a small submersible water pump that draws from a
reservoir.
The drip from the above method does work; however, the growing
medium will have a very moist surface, which will result in algae buildup
that not only lacks aesthetic appeal, but also can slow down plant
growth. The algae will overgrow the aggregate and reduce aeration. It
will also probably use up considerable nutrient. The problem of drain*
age still has to be solved for this method.
Flood and drain works as well, but it, too, can suffer from an algae
problem, and I suspect that it may be a bit of a shock for the roots to be
suddenly immersed in nutrient two or three times a day. Perhaps more
significantly, it is much more difficult to seed directly into this system
than into a constant flow arrangement, since the onrush of solution can
float seeds or even seedlings to the surface and then wash them too far
below the surface as the level recedes.
Whatever system you use in your homemade hydroponic garden,
full consideration must be given to drainage before you begin to build.
The drainage properties of the growing medium you intend to use must
also be kept in mind. As I mentioned earlier, perlite is a bit too light,
but drains quickly. On the other hand, vermiculite has a tendency to
become impacted after repeated immersions, doesn't flush (see page 36)
as well as other materials and should be changed after every crop to
ensure proper use. (As well, the vermiculite you use should have as
neutral a pH as possible [see Chapter 4] and no toxic amounts of boron
or fluorine. If your nursery doesn't know the pH and mineral properties
of its vermiculite, contact the manufacturer.) Haydite has excellent
drainage properties. You must also determine whether you will be using
a growing medium over a drainage medium, such as broken tiles over
vermiculite, when devising your building plan. In some instances you
may feel that your plants do not have sufficient nutrient solution available
immediately after draining or between feedings. If this is the case,
try putting a one to two inch layer of vermiculite down first with the
rock or gravel on top. The vermiculite will hold sufficient moisture for
the roots to grow into.
BUILDING YOUR OWN SYSTEM
The following illustrations are of some fairly simple hydroponic
systems. Something to keep in mind when building your own system:
always obtain all the parts and materials before starting. Otherwise you
might find that you have drilled the drainage hole a certain diameter
and that you can't find the right size plug to fit it. For such things as
pumps, timers and tubing, as well as other materials connected with
hydroponics, consult the Resource List at the back of this book.
Figure 2 is probably the simplest hydroponic system you can make.
Using 3/4 inch plywood, make a box 7 inches deep, 16 inches wide and
24 inches long (all outside dimensions). Fasten the box with wood
screws, allowing for the fact that the contents will be heavy. Drill two
1/2 inch holes on one end wall 1/2 inch from the inside bottom.
Line the inside of the box with polyethelene or fibreglass and fit
two removable plugs. On the opposite end from the drainage plugs, a
1 inch strip of plywood can be nailed to the bottom. This will sit the
tank on an angle and ensure adequate drainage.
This same system can be made using a plastic dishpan or any other
waterproof container. It is essential, however, that any material you use
for a hydroponic tank is inert, so that no chemical reaction is passed on
into your food chain.
For this system, use a 1 inch deep drainage bed of large pieces of
broken pottery or rocks that are approximately 3/4 of an inch in size.
The size is important to ensure proper drainage and so that the drain
holes don't get plugged with the smaller growing medium.
Figure 3 is a manually operated system and is only slightly more
automated than that shown in Figure 2.
A pail with a hose attached and sealed at the joints is connected
to the growing bed. Raise the pail above the tank to allow a gravity feed
of the nutrient solution into the bed. After a half-hour, set the pail on
the floor so gravity will drain the solution back into it. The growing bed
must be on a table or shelf to allow you to move the pail the proper distance
above and below the tank. Be sure that the size of the pail is adequate
to flood the system.
Figure 4 is one answer for the many people who ask what to do
with an old aquarium. The two main ingredients to make this kind of
system function well are a good strong net and a very light growing
medium. Burlap and perlite would be a good combination.
The illustration is self-explanatory, but a few suggestions are
in order. When starting seeds or seedlings, the water should barely
touch the seed bed. As the roots develop and penetrate the screen
into the water, gradually reduce the water level. Roots like air and
dislike light, so use your old aquarium pump to aerate the water and
cover the outside of the tank with dark material to keep out the light.
Make the cover removable, so you can keep a close eye on everything.
The complete plans in Figure 5 are meant for the serious
enthusiast who wants to build a system from the ground up. While
the plans are somewhat involved, the unit is not that difficult to
make and will last for many years. If the nutrient solution is removed,
the system can be carried outdoors in the spring and back inside in
the autumn.

Materials
1 sheet 3/4 inch plywood
80 oz. fibreglass resin
2-1/2 yards of fibreglass cloth "panelling"
5 yards of fibreglass cloth "joining"
1 NKl "Little Giant" (No Korode) submersible pump
1 piece of arborite, 16-1/4 by 46 inches
1 piece of arborite, 14-1/4 by 15 inches (funnel segment)
10 feet of 1/2 inch plastic tubing (irrigation hose)
6 feet of 1/2 inch plastic tubing (siphon hose for system flushing)
1 box of 2 inch wood screws
1 jar of bonding glue
Substitutions
1. It is easier to use 1 by 3 for the crosspieces than plywood.
Simply rip a piece of 1 by 3 for the 1/2 inch strip as well as the
retention strips.
2. Look in the Yellow Pages under "Plastics—Vacuum Forming."
The chances are that you will be able to buy a piece of plastic
.60 thick to use for the separator plate and the funnel segment.
Suggestions
1. Glue all joints before screwing together.
2. Use 5-3/4 inch centres on the crosspieces (i.e., the centre of one hole
to the centre of the next is 5-3/4 inches). You will have a much narrower
section at the opposite end to the pump well, but there is more
growing medium at that end.
3. Apply three coats of fibreglass resin to the interior.
4. After making and fibreglassing the tank, fill it with water to
check for leaks.
5. The volume capacity of the growing bed is 2-1/2 cubic feet.
6. Be sure the unit is level.
7. If you see roots in the irrigation tubes or drain holes in the
funnel segment, either remove them or cut them out.
8. We have found that fibreglass cloth panelling, except for comers and
joints, is unnecessary for quality. A lot of time is required to use the
cloth and does not provide significant benefits.
Observations
The NKl pump mentioned in the materials list features a highly
corrosion resistant motor housing made of metal and glass-filled
polymer which aids in heat dissipation. The pump is designed to
be used in mild acids, alkalies and hard water. The NKl pumps
171 Imperial or 205 U.S. gallons per hour with a one foot head.
These pumps must be submerged to operate.
The fact is that the size of pump you use and where you place
your system will have a bearing on irrigation and moisture retention
in the growing bed. For these reasons, you will have to keep a
close eye on the operation of your system until you can establish
precise requirements. If your unit is outdoors in the sun, it will
have a much higher evaporation rate on the surface of the growing
bed than either indoors or in the shade. In this situation, you may
find it necessary to keep your pump on all the time. On the other
hand, if you find that the flow of nutrient is too fast (i.e., it floods
the unit too much), you can pinch off the header hose a bit with a
clamp.
If the unit is made to plan, there is sufficient drainage at all
times that the pump could be left on during the period your
lights are on or, in the case of the outdoors, daylight hours. This
would remove the need for a timer for the pump. Simply turn
on the pump and lights (indoors) when you get up in the
morning and shut them off before you go to bed. If your lifestyle
does not permit you to be relatively consistent in this routine, or
if you are away frequently for a day or two at a time, then a
grounded timer such as the Intermatic EB41 can be purchased
along with a 3-way plug, which would accommodate both the
pump and lights.
Try using a 2 inch deep bed of coarse vermiculite sandwiched
between 2 layers each 1-1/2 to 2 inches of stones or gravel for
your growing bed. This will maintain higher water retention
nearer the roots and make the total cost of the growing medium
less expensive.
IRRIGATION
Because of its efficiency and ease of operation, I prefer a constant flow
system, but if the one you build uses the drip from above or flood and
drain method, then you must pay careful attention to four requirements:
1. Suitable daily pumping periods
2. Pumping intervals
3. Duration of irrigation
4. Nutrient solution depth
If you are pumping once a day, you should do it during the warmest
part of the day, usually afternoon, the period of greatest plant transpiration.
This will help overcome the problem of wilting. If you are
pumping twice a day, then maintain this first period and add an early
morning feeding. For three times a day, add an early evening period.
With an automatic system, it is simple to use a grounded timer (safer
than an ungrounded one) to regulate these feedings. If your system is
manual, and no one is available after mid-day, then it is better to feed in
the morning than at night.
Required pumping intervals depend on a number of factors, such
as what you are growing; plant size; water retention, or lack of it, in the
growing or drainage medium; and the climate, including temperature
and humidity. Tomatoes will require a far greater amount of water than
lettuce, for example, and porous stones, more water than vermiculite or
perlite. Hot, dry conditions cause more rapid evaporation than a cool
and humid atmosphere. Your plants will use greater amounts of water
than nutrient, assuming you are using a correct solution, because the
nutrient does not evaporate with the water. Therefore, the water
requirements of your plants and your aggregate are the prime considerations
in calculating pumping intervals. One to six times per day would
not be unreasonable.
The most common approach to the duration of irrigation is onehalf
hour for a flood system. You should try to drain the system as
quickly as possible after this time to prevent possible shock to the roots.
If the rate is too slow, the roots will be immersed for too long and there
will be a corresponding lack of aeration. If you have a flood system outdoors
in hot weather with plenty of tomatoes or similar plants, the
plants will require a lot of water, and six feedings of one hour duration
would not be unreasonable.
The depth of the nutrient solution depends to a certain extent on
the kinds of plants you are growing and their sizes. Both the drip from
above and the flood and drain methods give rise to algae growth if the
surface is constantly moistened, but bringing the solution level almost
to the top is unavoidable when seeds and seedlings are present. In fact,
you must be careful to raise the level high enough to moisten the seeds',
but not so high that they are covered completely, only to be washed
deeply into the aggregate during drainage. If algae starts to grow on the
surface of your growing bed, you can eliminate it by providing more
aeration to the top one inch of the bed, by making the surface less
moist, or by removing the light source (if possible) for a few days. I do
not recommend the use of algaecides such as the ones used in fish
aquariums and ponds. Permanganese and other similar substances are
poisonous and can be transferred into your food chain.
Manufactured Systems
To give some idea of the differences between homemade and commercially
available systems, the following drawings show the City Green
constant flow, manufactured hydroponic unit. The use of such a system,
particularly as a novice, will assist you in learning about hydroponics
and in getting early results. Although a commercially-made system,
such as the City Green unit, may not be available in your area, it would
take only a small amount of ingenuity for you to copy the design for personal
use but not for commercial sales.
Figures 6, 7 and 8 show the "City Green" home system. It incorporates
a 3 inch deep growing tray set into the nutrient reservoir tank,
both made of strong, lightweight, vacuum-formed plastic.
Each tank should be approximately 24 inches by 16 inches and 9
inches deep. With the 3 inch growing tray, you are left with a 6 inch
deep water reservoir.
Do not make the tanks longer than 16 inches or the air pump will
be incapable of pushing the water to the end of the irrigation hoses. You
can, however, by using another windshield wiper fitting operate a
maximum of two tanks from one aeration pump.
Should you use two tanks and one pump, do not allow the water
levels in the two tanks to vary more than an inch or two or the tank
with the greater amount of water will fail to pump.
Instead of a 3 inch deep growing tray, you could follow a similar
method as the large system in Figure 5. That is, a 1/2 inch plywood strip
around the inside perimeter of the tank that allows a 1/8 inch sheet of
plastic or arborite to be used as a separate plate. Be sure to use about
three crosspieces for support of the growing medium.
perforated irrigation tubes are attached. The air travelling through the
air hose and entering the water hose acts with a venturi effect to lift the
nutrient solution from the bottom of the tank up into the growing bed.
The growing tray has several 1/8 inch holes drilled in it to allow
drainage.
A 1 inch thick layer of coarse vermiculite is placed between two 1
inch layers of growing medium (expanded oil shale). The perforated
plastic tubes are buried to about the bottom of the top layer of growing
medium. This holds them in place. If the tubes were on the surface, it
would be too moist and an algae build-up would result.
An air hose is attached to an aquarium pump that is set on the
floor, and it is inserted into the funnel segment down into the tank. The
hose is then passed through a small tunnel in the reservoir which
anchors it to the bottom (otherwise it would float and be ineffective),
and is passed up through a hole drilled in the growing tray where the
A. Irrigation hoses 3/8 inches outside diameter, 3 inches apart; use an
electric drill and drill through only one wall of the tube, not both walls.
Be sure the holes are not burred on the inside or the water will not flow
smoothly.
B. Water hose 14 inches long, 5/8 inches outside diameter.
C. Air hose 8 feet long, 1/8 inch diameter to fit onto the aquarium
pump, inserted approximately 6 inches into the water hose.
D. Windshield wiper t-fitting. Cut a 1 inch piece of the irrigation
hose to insert into the water hose snugly. This will then fit onto the
t-fitting at D.
E. A 1 -1/2 inch pin forced through the two hoses and bent back to
hold them in place.
Likely the simplest of all hydroponic systems developed in recent years
is the N.F.T or Nutrient Film Technique. We have our British friends to
thank for the idea of foregoing the use of a growing medium.
By taking any length of 5 or 6 inch PVC tubing and plugging the
ends, the same length of plastic film or sheet is set into the tube into which
seedlings are placed. The film is then folded up above the root system and
stapled. (See Figure 9) This prevents light from obstructing the growth,
development and function of the root system. Remember, the root
system must not be exposed to continuous direct light.
Build a rack to support as many tubes as you have room for. For
your ideas look at how a boat-trailer is designed to hold a roundbottomed
boat.
If plants become too weak or spindly to support themselves, i.e.,
tomatoes, peppers, etc., the tops of the plants can be lightly tied with
string and fastened above to a beam, the unit above it, or the ceiling.
This will provide the support that is normally available from the soil.
Seedlings, started in a combination of half fine vermiculite and
half peat moss, show an excellent rate of growth. When the seedlings
have sufficiently developed, they can be placed, growing medium and
all, right into the trough inside the plastic film.
The N.F.T. system has been used throughout the world in commercial
operations. The only difference separating the domestic from
the commercial method is in the watering application. Where the commercial
systems use computers to feed and water the plants, you will use
a gravity-feed system, a small pump, or feed and water by hand.
If you water by hand, put about one inch of nutrient solution in
the tray for one-half hour and then drain. You can keep reusing the
solution for a week. Watch for wilting plants and govern the number of
feedings per day accordingly. The plants will likely require three or four
feedings a day. Be sure the tray is level.
If you build several trays and stack them, you would use a nutrient
reservoir with a small submersible pump that sends water to the topmost
unit. By inclining each tray about 4 degrees, the solution can gravityfeed
back to the nutrient tank. A timer could pump the solution three or
four times a day for one-hour duration each, freeing you to go on holidays
for a couple of weeks. The plastic tubing cemented in the bottom of
each tray (Figure 10) allows the free-flow of nutrient solution.

 

[moses224]

D:\Hydroponics for the home gardener.pdf

 

[moses224]

This could be considered a fairly accurate definition of the term
"hydroponics." In its more advanced stages, hydroponics can be a
complex art indeed, but the purpose of this book is to describe a series of
methods that will make hydroponics work for you. It will describe how
to make or where to buy a hydroponic system, how to plant it, how to
maintain it, how to correct common problems, and where to get
supplies. Two of the greatest benefits of hydroponic gardening are the
freshness and high nutritional value of the vegetables and herbs that
can be grown. For these reasons, you will also find recipes from famous
chefs who use hydroponically grown produce in their own kitchens.
What this book will not do is give a lengthy history of the subject,
or a great many personal anecdotes that do little good in helping you get
results from hydroponics. Presumably, results are the reason you bought
this book. By following the procedures listed here you will be able, for
example, to raise several crops of garden vegetables per year at a fraction
of their supermarket cost.
With the exception of a cursory knowledge of how hydroponics
came about, most readers couldn't care less about the long list of
people who have experimented with hydroponics, or when. Nor do
most readers care that some nutrients can be "locked in" under certain
conditions and are therefore unavailable to the plant. These things can
be found in the books listed in the bibliography. Here we will be dealing
with only some of the hundreds of formulae where all the nutrients are
available to the plant. In other words, I will not be giving you a lot of
superfluous scientific information. If anyone feels that I haven't given
enough background or scientific information, then they'll have to
consult other books, because Hydroponics for the Home Gardener is
written expressly to give you the facts you need.
History
Hydroponics is at least as ancient as the Pyramids. The Hanging
Gardens of Babylon, which are listed as one of the Seven Wonders of
the World, used a crude form of hydroponics. The world's rice crops
have been grown in this way from time immemorial. In 1934, however,
a University of California professor adapted this time-tested technique
to other crops. The results were twenty-five foot tomato vines that had
to be harvested with ladders. Modern hydroponics was born and it has
been advancing ever since.
During the Second World War, Allied soldiers ate hydroponic
vegetables grown on their air and naval bases in the South Pacific.
Today, hydroponic installations help feed millions of people; they may
be found flourishing in the deserts of Israel, Lebanon and Kuwait, on
the islands of Ceylon, the Philippines and the Canaries, on the rooftops
of Calcutta and in the parched villages of West Bengal.
Half of Vancouver Island's tomato crop and one-fifth of Moscow's
are hydroponically produced. There are full-fledged hydroponic systems
in American nuclear submarines, Russian space stations and on offshore
drillings rigs. Large zoos keep their animals healthy with hydroponic
green food, and race horses stay sleek and powerful on grass
grown hydroponically year round. There are large and small systems
used by companies and individuals as far north as Baffin Island and
Eskimo Point in Canada's Arctic. Commercial growers are using this
marvellous technique to produce food on a large scale from Israel to
India, and from Armenia to the Sahara.
Is It Worthwhile?
Gardeners love hydroponics, because almost anything can be grown
and there is no back-breaking work: no tilling, raking or hoeing. There
are no weeds to pull, no poisonous pesticides to spray. No moles or
cutworms eat your roots, and most insects leave your clean and healthy
plants alone.
Hydroponics is ideal for the hobbyist home-owner or apartmentdweller
who doesn't have the time or space for full-time soil gardening.
In late spring and summer, your portable hydroponic unit can be put
outside on a porch or balcony where natural sunlight helps produce
tremendous yields of anything from lettuce, to cucumbers, to zinnias. In
winter, the unit can be moved anywhere inside the home, even into the
basement, where your plants will flourish and continue to produce
under artificial light.
Plants love to grow in hydroponics, because their roots don't have
to push through heavy, chunky soil to compete for nutrients. Instead, a
hydroponic system distributes nutrients evenly to each plant. What's
more, plants need air to breathe, and, unlike soil, a porous growing
aggregate lets air circulate freely around them. Consequently, everything
grows quickly and beautifully.
Hydroponic plants grow faster, ripen earlier and give up to ten
times the yield of soil-grown plants. These clean and pampered plants
produce fruits and vegetables of great nutritive value and superior
flavour. Many of them, especially hydroponic tomatoes and cucumbers,
are sold in the gourmet sections of supermarkets at considerably higher
prices than ordinary vegetables. The point here is that you can grow the
same vegetables for considerably less money than it costs to buy the
pulpy supermarket variety.
Why Hydroponics For You?
Have you noticed lately that there's something missing in supermarket
vegetables? It's flavour. As in many modern foods, flavour has been
traded for the convenience of the producers. Large-scale farming and
marketing do, of course, provide vast quantities of food for the world's
burgeoning population, but it is important to remember that whenever
quantity is stressed, quality suffers. Consequently, the flavour and
nutritional value of your meals are reduced.
One major reason for these losses is the types of seeds developed
for "agribusiness." These seeds are chosen for fast growth and high
yields. The vegetables and fruits that result have tough skins for
machine harvesting, sorting and shipping. Flavour and quality are
secondary concerns. In addition, many vegetables — especially tomatoes
— are harvested unripe to ensure safe shipment and a longer shelf
life in the store. In fact, attempts are now being made to develop a
hybrid, package-fitting square tomato.
In pioneer days, more often than not, towns and villages grew up
where farmers tilled the soil. They were good farmers and chose the best
soil. These towns and villages are our cities of today; still expanding,
still gobbling up valuable farming land. As prime agricultural land
disappears, as growers' costs keep rising, as transportation costs increase
on a parallel with energy supplies and as supermarket boards of directors
become more and more concerned with profit margins, we are going to
see our food costs increase to the point of absurdity. The Victory
Gardens of World War II were planted to raise unavailable food, and it
seems realistic to say that in the near future millions of people will be
using hydroponics to supply themselves with affordable vegetables and
herbs of a quality that stores will not be able to match.
How Plants Grow
Some books on hydroponics give the reader a crash course on biology
complete with diagrams. I would prefer that you get your own biology
text, if you feel it's necessary in order to produce good cucumbers. It
seems to make more sense to relate biology directly to hydroponics and
the nutrients that make plants grow.
Each plant is a natural workshop that builds organic matter in the
form of roots, stems, leaves, fruit and seeds. Air and water provide more
than ninety-seven per cent of this matter, while the remainder comes
from plant nutrients. A plant cannot take up any organic substance;
rather it absorbs inorganic mineral salts. That is, the vegetable kingdom
feeds directly on the mineral kingdom.
This is why there is no conflict between organic gardening and
hydroponics. The difference is, however, that in organic gardening it is
the soil that is fed with dead plant and animal matter, not the plant.
Soil acts as a natural fertilizer factory that goes to work on these organic
substances with its soil bacteria in league with weathering. It breaks
these substances down into their inorganic parts (chemicals, if you
like), so that the plants can feed on them.
In hydroponics there is no soil, and the plants are fed directly with
the same minerals that healthy organic soil produces. The plant does
not know, or particularly care, whether its mineral food was made by
man or nature. It does care, though, that it is well fed, and a nitrate is a
nitrate whether it comes from a nutrient solution or a dead mouse.
A plant uses two basic processes in order to grow. The first,
osmosis, takes up water and minerals through the roots. The second,
photosynthesis, uses light and the atmosphere for transforming the
water and minerals into plant tissue. Roots need air as well, in order to
breathe, and this is one of the reasons that hydroponics works so well.
The loose, chunky hydroponic growing medium, the aggregate, as it is
called, allows plenty of air to reach the roots. On the other hand,
natural soil often requires a lot of work and time to assure satisfactory
aeration.
Chemicals or No Chemicals?
Are chemicals used in hydroponics? Most people would say no, but the
real answer is yes. We will be using a mixture of N2 and O2, commonly
called air, and lots of H2O. To this is added small amounts of N, P and K
(nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium) and balanced trace elements.
The serious point being made here is that the world and everything in it
is made up of one "chemical" or another. What we do avoid in hydroponics
is putting the wrong chemical in the wrong place at the wrong
time.
Nothing could be more damaging than what the modern
commercial farmer does when he tries to boost his yield by dumping
inorganic nutrients (fertilizer) on top of his organic soil. His plants may
grow faster for awhile, but eventually his soil dies, because nutrient salts
have inhibited the action of the soil's micro-organisms. After a few
years his soil is little more than something for his underfed plants to
stand around in.
To make matters worse, rain washes a large amount of this fertilizer
off the farmer's fields. It enters our creeks and rivers and ends up
in our lakes. It does not poison them, but it does overfertilize them.
Algae and water plants thrive on it, and they multiply on the surface of
the water, blocking light to the lower regions and eventually killing
underwater plant and animal life.
Detergents cause the same problem, because they are such terrific
fertilizers - the more phosphates the better. Grandma really did know
something when she dumped her wash-water on the garden. When you
flush your high-phosphate detergent down the drain into the sewage
system, you are adding to overfertilization and choking marine life.
In the midst of this we are presented with hydroponics, an
environmentally sound growing method where water and nutrients are
recycled until they are used up by the plants. Nothing is wasted, and
nothing ends up in our rivers and lakes. Your healthy hydroponic plants
will tell you that you are doing something right.
Year-Round Gardening
Almost anyone can make things grow outside in summer, but you will
find that your hydroponic plants will both outgrow and outproduce
their soil-bound cousins. This is partly because they don't have to
expend a lot of energy sending out roots to seek nutrients; consequently,
they have more energy left for growing.
Hydroponics gives you yet another edge over soil gardeners. They
can't go away on vacations when the good weather comes without
arranging for the watering and weeding of their gardens. If you have
bought or built a hydroponic system that waters automatically, away
you go. If it rains or doesn't rain while you're away, so what?
During winter, your hydroponic garden will produce tomatoes,
lettuce, cucumbers and whatever other healthful green foods you
choose just when their cost is highest and their natural vitamins are
most needed. It's a cheery sight to see your vegetables, herbs and flowers
sitting fat and happy under a growlight, some ready for harvesting,
when the snow is blowing outside. Remember, too, that your planters
and plants will act as natural humidifiers for the dry indoor air of winter.
Come spring, you move your portable hydroponic unit outdoors
again onto a balcony, porch, patio or into a greenhouse to take full
advantage of natural sunlight. Because you have already started your
garden indoors under lights, and because it is out of the range of spring
ground frost, you can get your first delicious hydroponic tomato two
months earlier than your dirt-farming neighbours.
Hydroponic Herbs
Not long ago, herbs grew in every garden and were sold by every
greengrocer, but all we seem to use today is parsley as a garnish.
Whatever happened to fresh chives, tarragon, basil and sage? We used
to know that herbs were natural flavour secrets that would give a lift to
the simplest budget dish or the most complex gourmet creation.
Perhaps we have forgotten because we have become accustomed to
dried herbs whose flavours and fragrances have been destroyed by
processing. One of the real joys of hydroponics is the rediscovery of
fresh kitchen herbs. Once you have used them, you'll never want to be
without them again.
Finally, it is worth remembering that for most people hydroponics is a
new and exciting science. There is still much to be learned. Don't be
afraid to experiment, particularly if you find that something in this or
any other book is unsuitable for you. What works for me may not work
for you, and what I believe may not hold true in your particular case.
What this book seeks is results for you, and the proof of any system or
method is what it produces.
Many people who enjoy working with their hands, making things, gain
tremendous satisfaction from what they create and deplore spending
money on a manufactured product. To these people, I say study the
diagrams given here and enjoy yourselves. There are at least as many
others, however, who would rather concentrate on the actual growing
of hydroponic plants and who would prefer to buy a system that they
know will work.
One of the wonderful aspects of hydroponics is that there are no
limits to the inventiveness of the builder or even the buyer of a system.
Try anything that you think will work. If it doesn't, you can always alter
your procedure, and you will have gained valuable information in the
process. Even the most knowledgeable user is constantly trying new
methods, different nutrients, many varieties of plant life and wide
ranging applications of all the necessary components of hydroponics. If
there is a single word that sums up the best approach to hydroponics, it
is experimentation.
If you decide to build your own system, remember that hydroponics
is more a science than an art. To get satisfactory results from a
homemade system, much more is required than a box to hold plant life.
There are four approaches to hydroponic gardening:
1. Growing outdoors as farmers do but using a hydroponic system
rather than soil
2. Growing hydroponically indoors
3. A combination of these two, the year-round garden
4. Growing hydroponically in a greenhouse.
The more you substitute for nature, the more complicated these
methods become. When plants are removed from their natural environment,
as in indoor gardening, then all aspects of that environment
have to be duplicated by artificial or technical means. The important
thing to recognize in any of these methods is what is taken away and
what needs to be replaced. There is no substitute for natural sunlight,
for instance, although there are adequate replacements. This is why I
recommend that your year-round garden be portable so that it can be
moved outside in summer.
Chapter 3 deals extensively with nutrients, because when
growing hydroponically this is the most obvious part of the environment
we are removing. Should you decide to confine your growing
only to the outdoors, then you needn't know a great deal about lighting,
temperature and humidity controls, pollination, or any other scientific
matters other than nutrients. However, the remaining three
approaches do require a working knowledge of all these things. Simply
put, pay attention to the environment around your crop, or you won't
have a crop. For example, I have received hundreds of letters and
phone calls from people saying that they had numerous flowers on
their vines indoors, but that the flowers died and fell off before any
fruit formed. Their answers to a few questions told me that they knew
nothing about pollination or cross-pollination. These are simple tasks
that wind and insects usually do, but when the plants are moved
indoors, the individual must take over.
There is no reason to be intimidated by pollination and other
rather scientific terms; the procedures are simple, and they are covered
fully in Chapter 10. The point is that you do have to know how. Hydroponics
is a science and there is a considerable amount of knowledge
that must be acquired. For these reasons, I usually suggest a manufactured
system to the novice who chooses to grow a year-round garden or
indoors exclusively. The reason is simple: if you start growing hydroponically
with a system that is only partially effective, when you start
having problems it is more difficult to ascertain whether the trouble is
with the system, the quality of nutrient or the environment. You know
a manufactured system works, and any problems you encounter will be
environmental. You can therefore concentrate your learning in the area
of the plants' requirements.
The person who spends thirty dollars making a simple hydroponic
system may discover that seven days a week, three times a day, he or she
must be available to pour nutrient over the aggregate. For the busy citydweller,
this could be a hassle. He or she could have purchased a workable
system, experimented a little, gained biological knowledge, got the
"feel" of hydroponics and been ready to branch out to build a system
suited to the individual's needs.
1 don't mean to downgrade the homebuilt system, as the following
diagrams and plans show. These remarks are meant as cautions only,
because there is nothing more unfortunate than losing an enthusiastic
novice due to problems that might have been solved by starting with a
manufactured system.
Unfortunately, the recession of 1982 drove out of business many
companies that were selling and/or manufacturing hydroponic systems.
The resource list has been updated with regional suppliers. Check your
local Yellow Pages for other suppliers in your area. Those fortunate
enough to locate a local supplier will still be able to make a choice.
Those without a choice will simply have to build. In order to facilitate
this, I have further explained the patented irrigation method of my
City Green system in Figure 8.
Simple Hydroponic Systems
When building your own system, keep in mind that there are really only
two things you are trying to accomplish. The first is a structure that
permits support for the root system, and the second is a method of supplying
nutrient and aeration to your plants. Every system must begin by
satisfying these two requirements. After these requirements are met
what we try to achieve is a more sophisticated and automatic method.
For the simplest systems, all you need is a waterproof container
filled with some kind of growing medium or aggregate for root support.
Into the aggregate you place seeds or young plants whose roots have
been washed of soil. Then you pour a nutrient solution over the aggregate
to feed the plants. This is hydroponics!
This simple system is not essentially different from the one used in
the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, and in its operation we find that
several problems arise. It is these problems and the solutions to them
that have resulted in the development of more sophisticated automated
systems.
The first problem concerns just how much nutrient to pour over
the aggregate. Assuming that the container is waterproof and that the
inside bottom of it can't be seen through the walls or down through the
aggregate, it is very difficult to gauge the amount or level of nutrient
solution. Without this information, it is quite likely that the plants will
be killed by either under or overfilling. The only simple solution to
this problem is the use of a see-through container, a transparent inspection
window or a float system that will allow a visual check of the
nutrient level. Otherwise, you must employ a semi or fully automatic
system.
The second problem is how often to pour nutrient over the aggregate.
Should you decide to "water" your plants hydroponically as you de
your house plants, once or twice a week say, you would probably kill
everything. Given similar evaporation rates, the nutrient solution will
evaporate from the loose aggregate much more quickly than water from
soil. Generally speaking, you would have to supply nutrient to your
plants about once a day. This would mean you couldn't even go away for
a weekend or your hydroponic plants would begin to suffer. The more
simple the system, the more frequently someone will have to be available
to add nutrient solution. Anywhere from one to four times a day
will be necessary depending on light, temperature, humidity, what is
being grown, how large your plants are and the size of your container.
A third problem involves proper aeration for the roots. In soil,
worms usually perform this function, except, of course, for house
plants. One of the major reasons for using hydroponic aggregate is to
permit aeration.
AGGREGATES
Aggregates come in many forms: small rounded stones, broken tiles,
crushed stone, perlite, slate chips, vermiculite, expanded oil shale and
lava stones. Because the growing medium must perform the two functions
of support and aeration, the lighter and more porous it is, the
better. Actually, almost anything can be used as an aggregate, but the
builders and owners of home systems are more limited than commercial
growers in the kinds of materials that they can use. Perlite is a bit light,
floats somewhat and builds up heat, so it is not as good as some other
materials. Vermiculite holds considerable moisture and this can be a
real problem for your plants under certain conditions. Broken tiles or
pottery can have sharp edges that might damage root systems. Crushed
stones or gravel will likely lack porosity and could have lime bases
which would be detrimental to your pH level (see Chapter 4).
Of all these materials, haydite seems to me to be preferable. It is an
expanded oil shale that has been processed for agricultural purposes.
Like lava stones, it has the advantage of being extremely porous for
aeration, while at the same time it is capable of holding satisfactory
quantities of water. If not processed, both materials must be washed
repeatedly in a bucket until the water runs clear to remove accumulated
dust and dirt.
Processed haydite is not available in all areas, so you will probably
end up using a locally available material or ordering haydite from one of
the suppliers listed at the back of this book. In certain locations, haydite
may be sold under other names, such as herculite, and it is worth
checking with a dealer to find this out. The one drawback of haydite is
that it is heavy and consequently expensive to ship.
If you use gravel, broken tiles or haydite, try to keep the pieces no
larger than about three-eighths of an inch. Smaller pieces will not give
sufficient aeration, larger pieces will hold insufficient moisture.
DRAINAGE
The strength of nutrient solution used and the frequency with which it is
applied are both important, as we have seen, but adequate drainage is
absolutely essential. Plant roots can only remain submerged in the
nutrient solution for a few hours without air before they begin to suffer.
In the simplest systems, drainage may be achieved by simply
pouring off the solution or drilling small, strategically placed holes in
the container to allow run-off. Such drainage methods, however,
require considerable attention and experimentation, and the more we
become involved in hydroponics, the more we look for methods of
feeding that are less time-consuming.
There are three basic types of automatic, labour-saving feeding
and drainage systems:
1. Drip from above (primarily for commercial applications, not
too practical for the home)
2. Flood and drain (or sub-irrigation); see figures 2, 4 and 7
3. Constant flow; see figure 8.
I prefer the third method, because the root system is constantly and
gently sprayed with nutrient solution and drainage is almost immediate.
The simplest mechanical means of achieving constant flow is by using
either an air pump or a small submersible water pump that draws from a
reservoir.
The drip from the above method does work; however, the growing
medium will have a very moist surface, which will result in algae buildup
that not only lacks aesthetic appeal, but also can slow down plant
growth. The algae will overgrow the aggregate and reduce aeration. It
will also probably use up considerable nutrient. The problem of drain*
age still has to be solved for this method.
Flood and drain works as well, but it, too, can suffer from an algae
problem, and I suspect that it may be a bit of a shock for the roots to be
suddenly immersed in nutrient two or three times a day. Perhaps more
significantly, it is much more difficult to seed directly into this system
than into a constant flow arrangement, since the onrush of solution can
float seeds or even seedlings to the surface and then wash them too far
below the surface as the level recedes.
Whatever system you use in your homemade hydroponic garden,
full consideration must be given to drainage before you begin to build.
The drainage properties of the growing medium you intend to use must
also be kept in mind. As I mentioned earlier, perlite is a bit too light,
but drains quickly. On the other hand, vermiculite has a tendency to
become impacted after repeated immersions, doesn't flush (see page 36)
as well as other materials and should be changed after every crop to
ensure proper use. (As well, the vermiculite you use should have as
neutral a pH as possible [see Chapter 4] and no toxic amounts of boron
or fluorine. If your nursery doesn't know the pH and mineral properties
of its vermiculite, contact the manufacturer.) Haydite has excellent
drainage properties. You must also determine whether you will be using
a growing medium over a drainage medium, such as broken tiles over
vermiculite, when devising your building plan. In some instances you
may feel that your plants do not have sufficient nutrient solution available
immediately after draining or between feedings. If this is the case,
try putting a one to two inch layer of vermiculite down first with the
rock or gravel on top. The vermiculite will hold sufficient moisture for
the roots to grow into.
BUILDING YOUR OWN SYSTEM
The following illustrations are of some fairly simple hydroponic
systems. Something to keep in mind when building your own system:
always obtain all the parts and materials before starting. Otherwise you
might find that you have drilled the drainage hole a certain diameter
and that you can't find the right size plug to fit it. For such things as
pumps, timers and tubing, as well as other materials connected with
hydroponics, consult the Resource List at the back of this book.
Figure 2 is probably the simplest hydroponic system you can make.
Using 3/4 inch plywood, make a box 7 inches deep, 16 inches wide and
24 inches long (all outside dimensions). Fasten the box with wood
screws, allowing for the fact that the contents will be heavy. Drill two
1/2 inch holes on one end wall 1/2 inch from the inside bottom.
Line the inside of the box with polyethelene or fibreglass and fit
two removable plugs. On the opposite end from the drainage plugs, a
1 inch strip of plywood can be nailed to the bottom. This will sit the
tank on an angle and ensure adequate drainage.
This same system can be made using a plastic dishpan or any other
waterproof container. It is essential, however, that any material you use
for a hydroponic tank is inert, so that no chemical reaction is passed on
into your food chain.
For this system, use a 1 inch deep drainage bed of large pieces of
broken pottery or rocks that are approximately 3/4 of an inch in size.
The size is important to ensure proper drainage and so that the drain
holes don't get plugged with the smaller growing medium.
Figure 3 is a manually operated system and is only slightly more
automated than that shown in Figure 2.
A pail with a hose attached and sealed at the joints is connected
to the growing bed. Raise the pail above the tank to allow a gravity feed
of the nutrient solution into the bed. After a half-hour, set the pail on
the floor so gravity will drain the solution back into it. The growing bed
must be on a table or shelf to allow you to move the pail the proper distance
above and below the tank. Be sure that the size of the pail is adequate
to flood the system.
Figure 4 is one answer for the many people who ask what to do
with an old aquarium. The two main ingredients to make this kind of
system function well are a good strong net and a very light growing
medium. Burlap and perlite would be a good combination.
The illustration is self-explanatory, but a few suggestions are
in order. When starting seeds or seedlings, the water should barely
touch the seed bed. As the roots develop and penetrate the screen
into the water, gradually reduce the water level. Roots like air and
dislike light, so use your old aquarium pump to aerate the water and
cover the outside of the tank with dark material to keep out the light.
Make the cover removable, so you can keep a close eye on everything.
The complete plans in Figure 5 are meant for the serious
enthusiast who wants to build a system from the ground up. While
the plans are somewhat involved, the unit is not that difficult to
make and will last for many years. If the nutrient solution is removed,
the system can be carried outdoors in the spring and back inside in
the autumn.

Materials
1 sheet 3/4 inch plywood
80 oz. fibreglass resin
2-1/2 yards of fibreglass cloth "panelling"
5 yards of fibreglass cloth "joining"
1 NKl "Little Giant" (No Korode) submersible pump
1 piece of arborite, 16-1/4 by 46 inches
1 piece of arborite, 14-1/4 by 15 inches (funnel segment)
10 feet of 1/2 inch plastic tubing (irrigation hose)
6 feet of 1/2 inch plastic tubing (siphon hose for system flushing)
1 box of 2 inch wood screws
1 jar of bonding glue
Substitutions
1. It is easier to use 1 by 3 for the crosspieces than plywood.
Simply rip a piece of 1 by 3 for the 1/2 inch strip as well as the
retention strips.
2. Look in the Yellow Pages under "Plastics—Vacuum Forming."
The chances are that you will be able to buy a piece of plastic
.60 thick to use for the separator plate and the funnel segment.
Suggestions
1. Glue all joints before screwing together.
2. Use 5-3/4 inch centres on the crosspieces (i.e., the centre of one hole
to the centre of the next is 5-3/4 inches). You will have a much narrower
section at the opposite end to the pump well, but there is more
growing medium at that end.
3. Apply three coats of fibreglass resin to the interior.
4. After making and fibreglassing the tank, fill it with water to
check for leaks.
5. The volume capacity of the growing bed is 2-1/2 cubic feet.
6. Be sure the unit is level.
7. If you see roots in the irrigation tubes or drain holes in the
funnel segment, either remove them or cut them out.
8. We have found that fibreglass cloth panelling, except for comers and
joints, is unnecessary for quality. A lot of time is required to use the
cloth and does not provide significant benefits.
Observations
The NKl pump mentioned in the materials list features a highly
corrosion resistant motor housing made of metal and glass-filled
polymer which aids in heat dissipation. The pump is designed to
be used in mild acids, alkalies and hard water. The NKl pumps
171 Imperial or 205 U.S. gallons per hour with a one foot head.
These pumps must be submerged to operate.
The fact is that the size of pump you use and where you place
your system will have a bearing on irrigation and moisture retention
in the growing bed. For these reasons, you will have to keep a
close eye on the operation of your system until you can establish
precise requirements. If your unit is outdoors in the sun, it will
have a much higher evaporation rate on the surface of the growing
bed than either indoors or in the shade. In this situation, you may
find it necessary to keep your pump on all the time. On the other
hand, if you find that the flow of nutrient is too fast (i.e., it floods
the unit too much), you can pinch off the header hose a bit with a
clamp.
If the unit is made to plan, there is sufficient drainage at all
times that the pump could be left on during the period your
lights are on or, in the case of the outdoors, daylight hours. This
would remove the need for a timer for the pump. Simply turn
on the pump and lights (indoors) when you get up in the
morning and shut them off before you go to bed. If your lifestyle
does not permit you to be relatively consistent in this routine, or
if you are away frequently for a day or two at a time, then a
grounded timer such as the Intermatic EB41 can be purchased
along with a 3-way plug, which would accommodate both the
pump and lights.
Try using a 2 inch deep bed of coarse vermiculite sandwiched
between 2 layers each 1-1/2 to 2 inches of stones or gravel for
your growing bed. This will maintain higher water retention
nearer the roots and make the total cost of the growing medium
less expensive.
IRRIGATION
Because of its efficiency and ease of operation, I prefer a constant flow
system, but if the one you build uses the drip from above or flood and
drain method, then you must pay careful attention to four requirements:
1. Suitable daily pumping periods
2. Pumping intervals
3. Duration of irrigation
4. Nutrient solution depth
If you are pumping once a day, you should do it during the warmest
part of the day, usually afternoon, the period of greatest plant transpiration.
This will help overcome the problem of wilting. If you are
pumping twice a day, then maintain this first period and add an early
morning feeding. For three times a day, add an early evening period.
With an automatic system, it is simple to use a grounded timer (safer
than an ungrounded one) to regulate these feedings. If your system is
manual, and no one is available after mid-day, then it is better to feed in
the morning than at night.
Required pumping intervals depend on a number of factors, such
as what you are growing; plant size; water retention, or lack of it, in the
growing or drainage medium; and the climate, including temperature
and humidity. Tomatoes will require a far greater amount of water than
lettuce, for example, and porous stones, more water than vermiculite or
perlite. Hot, dry conditions cause more rapid evaporation than a cool
and humid atmosphere. Your plants will use greater amounts of water
than nutrient, assuming you are using a correct solution, because the
nutrient does not evaporate with the water. Therefore, the water
requirements of your plants and your aggregate are the prime considerations
in calculating pumping intervals. One to six times per day would
not be unreasonable.
The most common approach to the duration of irrigation is onehalf
hour for a flood system. You should try to drain the system as
quickly as possible after this time to prevent possible shock to the roots.
If the rate is too slow, the roots will be immersed for too long and there
will be a corresponding lack of aeration. If you have a flood system outdoors
in hot weather with plenty of tomatoes or similar plants, the
plants will require a lot of water, and six feedings of one hour duration
would not be unreasonable.
The depth of the nutrient solution depends to a certain extent on
the kinds of plants you are growing and their sizes. Both the drip from
above and the flood and drain methods give rise to algae growth if the
surface is constantly moistened, but bringing the solution level almost
to the top is unavoidable when seeds and seedlings are present. In fact,
you must be careful to raise the level high enough to moisten the seeds',
but not so high that they are covered completely, only to be washed
deeply into the aggregate during drainage. If algae starts to grow on the
surface of your growing bed, you can eliminate it by providing more
aeration to the top one inch of the bed, by making the surface less
moist, or by removing the light source (if possible) for a few days. I do
not recommend the use of algaecides such as the ones used in fish
aquariums and ponds. Permanganese and other similar substances are
poisonous and can be transferred into your food chain.
Manufactured Systems
To give some idea of the differences between homemade and commercially
available systems, the following drawings show the City Green
constant flow, manufactured hydroponic unit. The use of such a system,
particularly as a novice, will assist you in learning about hydroponics
and in getting early results. Although a commercially-made system,
such as the City Green unit, may not be available in your area, it would
take only a small amount of ingenuity for you to copy the design for personal
use but not for commercial sales.
Figures 6, 7 and 8 show the "City Green" home system. It incorporates
a 3 inch deep growing tray set into the nutrient reservoir tank,
both made of strong, lightweight, vacuum-formed plastic.
Each tank should be approximately 24 inches by 16 inches and 9
inches deep. With the 3 inch growing tray, you are left with a 6 inch
deep water reservoir.
Do not make the tanks longer than 16 inches or the air pump will
be incapable of pushing the water to the end of the irrigation hoses. You
can, however, by using another windshield wiper fitting operate a
maximum of two tanks from one aeration pump.
Should you use two tanks and one pump, do not allow the water
levels in the two tanks to vary more than an inch or two or the tank
with the greater amount of water will fail to pump.
Instead of a 3 inch deep growing tray, you could follow a similar
method as the large system in Figure 5. That is, a 1/2 inch plywood strip
around the inside perimeter of the tank that allows a 1/8 inch sheet of
plastic or arborite to be used as a separate plate. Be sure to use about
three crosspieces for support of the growing medium.
perforated irrigation tubes are attached. The air travelling through the
air hose and entering the water hose acts with a venturi effect to lift the
nutrient solution from the bottom of the tank up into the growing bed.
The growing tray has several 1/8 inch holes drilled in it to allow
drainage.
A 1 inch thick layer of coarse vermiculite is placed between two 1
inch layers of growing medium (expanded oil shale). The perforated
plastic tubes are buried to about the bottom of the top layer of growing
medium. This holds them in place. If the tubes were on the surface, it
would be too moist and an algae build-up would result.
An air hose is attached to an aquarium pump that is set on the
floor, and it is inserted into the funnel segment down into the tank. The
hose is then passed through a small tunnel in the reservoir which
anchors it to the bottom (otherwise it would float and be ineffective),
and is passed up through a hole drilled in the growing tray where the
A. Irrigation hoses 3/8 inches outside diameter, 3 inches apart; use an
electric drill and drill through only one wall of the tube, not both walls.
Be sure the holes are not burred on the inside or the water will not flow
smoothly.
B. Water hose 14 inches long, 5/8 inches outside diameter.
C. Air hose 8 feet long, 1/8 inch diameter to fit onto the aquarium
pump, inserted approximately 6 inches into the water hose.
D. Windshield wiper t-fitting. Cut a 1 inch piece of the irrigation
hose to insert into the water hose snugly. This will then fit onto the
t-fitting at D.
E. A 1 -1/2 inch pin forced through the two hoses and bent back to
hold them in place.
Likely the simplest of all hydroponic systems developed in recent years
is the N.F.T or Nutrient Film Technique. We have our British friends to
thank for the idea of foregoing the use of a growing medium.
By taking any length of 5 or 6 inch PVC tubing and plugging the
ends, the same length of plastic film or sheet is set into the tube into which
seedlings are placed. The film is then folded up above the root system and
stapled. (See Figure 9) This prevents light from obstructing the growth,
development and function of the root system. Remember, the root
system must not be exposed to continuous direct light.
Build a rack to support as many tubes as you have room for. For
your ideas look at how a boat-trailer is designed to hold a roundbottomed
boat.
If plants become too weak or spindly to support themselves, i.e.,
tomatoes, peppers, etc., the tops of the plants can be lightly tied with
string and fastened above to a beam, the unit above it, or the ceiling.
This will provide the support that is normally available from the soil.
Seedlings, started in a combination of half fine vermiculite and
half peat moss, show an excellent rate of growth. When the seedlings
have sufficiently developed, they can be placed, growing medium and
all, right into the trough inside the plastic film.
The N.F.T. system has been used throughout the world in commercial
operations. The only difference separating the domestic from
the commercial method is in the watering application. Where the commercial
systems use computers to feed and water the plants, you will use
a gravity-feed system, a small pump, or feed and water by hand.
If you water by hand, put about one inch of nutrient solution in
the tray for one-half hour and then drain. You can keep reusing the
solution for a week. Watch for wilting plants and govern the number of
feedings per day accordingly. The plants will likely require three or four
feedings a day. Be sure the tray is level.
If you build several trays and stack them, you would use a nutrient
reservoir with a small submersible pump that sends water to the topmost
unit. By inclining each tray about 4 degrees, the solution can gravityfeed
back to the nutrient tank. A timer could pump the solution three or
four times a day for one-hour duration each, freeing you to go on holidays
for a couple of weeks. The plastic tubing cemented in the bottom of
each tray (Figure 10) allows the free-flow of nutrient solution.
While you are deciding whether to build or buy a home hydroponic
unit, it would be a good idea to do a little studying about nutrients. No
matter what kind of system you choose, nutrients will be an integral part
of your success, because your plants must be constantly supplied with
food.
Using the formulae given in this chapter, you will be able to mix
your own nutrients in either large or small amounts. As in Chapter 2,
however, I recommend that the novice begin with a commercially
available, pre-mixed nutrient at least until a feel for hydroponics has
been developed.
Nature does a lot of the work in soil gardening, although often not
perfectly, or farmers would not have to use fertilizers. Almost all soil has
some nutrients in it, but when you are growing hydroponically, you are
taking over from nature, and in many instances it is possible for you to
improve the quality of nutrients supplied.
Homemade Nutrients
The most common type of homemade nutrient is one made from
fertilizer salts. These salts are available in bulk from agricultural agencies,
plant food suppliers, some nurseries and gardening stores, and
chemical suppliers. The only problem with this approach is that you
usually have to buy some of these salts in twenty-five to fifty pound bags,
and unless you are growing in extensive hydroponic gardens such
quantities make the whole thing rather cumbersomc and expensive.
Even so, for the adventurous, or for the person who simply wants to
know, the following information should give a good general knowledge
of these materials.
The salts marked with an asterisk are the best to work with where there
are other, similar salts available, because they have superior
properties, such as better solubility, cost, storage life, and stability.
Potassium chloride, for example, could be used rather than potassium
sulphate, but if applied for more than a few days, the chlorine in the
mix could prove harmful to your plants. This is especially true since
there is likely to be chlorine in your water in the first place.
Magnesium nitrate could be substituted for magnesium sulphate, but it
hardly seems worthwhile to use a more expensive material for the
cheap and readily available epsom salts. Ferric citrate has to be
dissolved in hot water, as opposed to cold for ferrous sulphate.
In addition to the three key elements of nitrogen (N),
phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) that are essential to all plant
growth, there should be at least ten trace elements present in your
nutrient. These are: sulphur, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron,
magnesium, calcium, chlorine and molybdenum. The following list
gives the specific function of each one in plant growth.
There are hundreds of different nutrient formulae, but as long as
the elements are present in balanced amounts, you have little to worry
about. Trying to choose the best formula is a meaningless task, since
many of the experts disagree. In the final analysis, your decision will
probably be based on cost, availability and your own preferences.
However, plants do require different nutrients on different days, at
different times of the day and under different conditions. Unless you did
an exhaustive test every day, it would be impossible to determine just
what the plant requires at any one time. This is why it is essential to
provide the plant with a balanced nutrient solution all the time and
leave it up to the plant to use what it requires.
As it is used here, the term "balanced" simply means that the
nutrient contains the proper ratio of elements to satisfy the maximum
requirements of the plant.
Fertilizer Salts
Ammonium phosphate
Ammonium sulphate
Calcium nitrate
Potassium nitrate*
Sodium nitrate
Potassium sulphate*
Superphosphate*
Calcium sulphate*
Magnesium sulphate*
(Epsom salts)
Ferrous sulphate*
Manganese chloride
Zinc sulphate
Copper sulphate
Boric acid powder*
Elements Supplied
Nitrogen and Phosphorus
Nitrogen and Sulphur
Nitrogen and Calcium
Nitrogen and Potassium
Nitrogen
Potassium and Sulphur
Phosphorus and Calcium
Calcium and Sulphur
Magnesium and Sulphur
Iron
Manganese
Zinc
Copper
Boron
Element
Nitrogen
Phosphorus
Potassium
Sulphur
Iron
Manganese
Zinc
Copper
Boron
Magnesium
Calcium
Chlorine
Molybdenum
Function
Necessary for the production of leaves and in stem
growth. An essential ingredient in building plant
cells.
Required in the development of flowers and fruits and
aids in the growth of healthy roots.
Used by plant cells during the assimilation of the
energy produced by photosynthesis.
Assists in the production of plant energy and
heightens the effectiveness of phosphorus.
Vital in the production of chlorophyll.
Aids in the absorption of nitrogen. An essential
component in the energy transference process.
An essential component in the energy transference
process.
Needed in the production of chlorophyll.
Required in minute amounts, but it is not yet known
how the plant uses it.
One of the components of chlorophyll, magnesium also
is involved in the process of distributing phosphorus
throughout the plant.
Encourages root growth and helps the plant absorb
potassium.
Required for photosynthesis.
Assists in some chemical reactions.
Formula 1
Sodium nitrate
Calcium nitrate
Potassium sulphate
Superphosphate
Magnesium sulphate
10 ounces
10 ounces
10 ounces
15 ounces
5 ounces
Combine with trace elements and 100 gallons (120 American
gallons) of water, or 1 ounce per 2 Imperial gallons.
Formula 2
Sodium nitrate
Ammonium phosphate
Potassium sulphate
Calcium nitrate
Magnesium sulphate
8 ounces
1-3/4 ounces
4 ounces
1 ounce
3-1/2 ounces
Combine with trace elements and 100 gallons (120 American
gallons) of water, or 1 ounce per 5.5 Imperial gallons.
Formula 3
Ammonium sulphate
Potassium nitrate
Monocalcium phosphate
Magnesium sulphate
Calcium sulphate
1-1/2 ounces
9 ounces
4 ounces
6 ounces
7 ounces
Combine with trace elements and 100 gallons (120 American
gallons) of water, or 1 ounce per 3.7 Imperial gallons.
The trace elements that are added to these formulae must be mixed
separately. Two recipes are given below. Use a mortar
grind to a very fine powder.
Trace Elements No. 1
Iron sulphate
Manganese sulphate
Boric acid powder
Zinc sulphate
Copper sulphate
and pestle to
1 ounce
1 teaspoon
1 teaspoon
1/2 teaspoon
1/2 teaspoon
The ratio is arrived at by calculating the parts per million concentration
of each element. Scientifically, this description may be somewhat
inaccurate because of its simplicity. In fact, this may occur a few times
in my discussions of the more scientific aspects of hydroponics, but I
believe it is better to simplify for the novice and let the reader turn to
more scientific books when he wants to experiment.
The plant will absorb what it needs through the small hairs on the
ends of its roots. This selectivity makes it impossible to overfeed your
plants in hydroponics. Don't forget, though, that if you mix too high a
concentration of nutrient in the water you are using, the plant will be
unable to absorb sufficient water. Salts need to dilute themselves, and if
the concentration is too high, the plant will start giving off water
instead of ingesting it, and the result will be a plant that dehydrates
itself.
The following are three workable nutrient formulae. They are
based on a 100 Imperial (120 American) gallon quantity. Each
formula is translated into ounces rather than setting out complicated
chemical equations based on atomic weights and parts per million.
These ingredients should be mixed well and stored dry. Use 1/2
teaspoon per 100 gallons (120 American gallons) of water, or dissolve
1/2 teaspoon in one quart (1.2 American quarts) of water and use one
liquid ounce to 3 gallons (3.6 American gallons) of nutrient solution.
Throw the rest of the quart away; be sure not to use any portion of the
remainder of this quart of trace element solution. Any trace element
mix cannot be kept in a liquid state and retain its quality, so don't keep
this solution beyond one day.
Trace Elements No. 2
This formula has two separate components. They should be mixed dry
and stored separately until ready for use.
A
Fe 330, iron chelate 2 teaspoons
Manganese chloride 1/2 teaspoon
Boric acid powder 1-1/4 teaspoon
These three ingredients should be dissolved in one gallon (1.2
American gallons) of water. Add 5 liquid ounces to 10 gallons (12
American gallons) of nutrient solution.
B
Copper sulphate 1/4 teaspoon
Zinc sulphate 1/2 teaspoon
Dissolve these two elements in one gallon (1.2 American gallons)
of water and add 10 drops to the same 10 gallons of nutrient solution.
Many hydroponic gardeners will not need a hundred gallons of
nutrient solution, but it is an easy matter to calculate the weight to the
quantity you require based on the hundred gallon solution figures. In
Formula 1, for instance, the total weight of fertilizer salts is thirty-two
ounces to one hundred gallons of water. If you need twenty-five gallons
of nutrient solution, you would apply eight ounces of salts plus the
required amount of trace elements.
It is essential that all calculations by weight be accurate. Care must
also be taken that the proper compatible "chemicals" are used and that
they are properly mixed. The substances listed for each formula differ
greatly, because, although the elements themselves are the same, the
salts from which they are released vary in each composition. Occasionally,
all the trace elements are not necessary in a separate application,
for many of the salts being used contain some of the trace elements as
impurities.
The two trace elements (micronutrients) chlorine and molybdenum
require a brief discussion. Frequently, chlorine is not added to a
trace element formula, because there is usually enough found in public
works water systems. Some books mention molybdenum as a micronutrient,
others ignore it completely. The reason it is often skipped is that
only .02 parts per million are required, an amount so minute that if
enough is not present as a salt impurity, then the danger of adding too
much to your nutrient is not worth the risk. Besides, plants have the
ability to compensate for a molybdenum deficiency, should one exist.
Ready Made Nutrients
If you have a very small hydroponic unit, whether homemade or
bought, you may not feel that you wish to go to all the bother of making
your own nutrients. If this is so, it is quite easy to obtain commercial
nutrients in from one to twenty-five pound containers.
Ordinarily, the novice hydroponic gardener knows relatively little
of chemistry. Using a pre-mixed nutrient is the most straightforward
way of assuring that your plants get a balanced diet. There are good
hydroponic nutrients on the market that have all the necessary trace
elements. They can be bought at many large nurseries and plant stores
or from some of the suppliers listed at the back of this book. If it becomes
necessary to adjust your nutrient at some point, it is certainly easier for
the grower who lacks chemical knowledge to be using an identifiable
ready-made nutrient.
When purchasing commercial hydroponic nutrient, its quality is
identified with three digits separated by hyphens, such as 20-20-20.
These numbers represent the percentage by weight of the three main
elements present: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. There are various
nutrients on the market that have different ratios, but, generally
speaking, they are all well balanced. Commercial nutrients have their
drawbacks, however, because most users of soilless gardens are growing
a wide variety of vegetables at the same time, and it is impossible to
provide a specific plant food for each different vegetable at each stage of
its growth. The only answer would be to have a different type of plant in
each container, a solution to the problem that would often prove too
expensive and space-consuming. When using a commercial nutrient, I
have found it a good idea at the bud development stage of flowering
vegetables such as cucumbers, peppers or tomatoes, to add a nutrient
with a high middle number such as 10-52-10. Flush the system out
and use half of the measured amount of the commercially made
nutrient and half of the nutrient with the high phosphorus. Any
nutrient with a high middle number will do. The increased amount of
phosphorus will aid in healthy root and bud development. You
should begin this treatment when buds first start to develop and for as
long as this development continues.
Flushing is simply cleaning out your system of old nutrient,
removing any salt and mineral build-up on your growing medium and
putting in new nutrient solution.
Because it is difficult without a lab analysis to know just which
nutrients have been used by the plants at any given time, it is cheaper
and easier simply to replace the nutrient solution once a month (more
frequently if desired). Here's how to do it.
Syphon or pump off the existing nutrient solution. Use this for
your house plants or put it out in the backyard garden or around shrubs.
Fill the container to the top of the growing medium with plain
water and leave it for about an hour and then syphon off and throw
away. This dissolves the salt and mineral build-up. Now fill your
reservoir again with fresh water and add the required amount of
nutrient.
Once nutrient has been introduced to your hydroponic system
according to the measured instructions, you will find that as the water
evaporates or is used by the plants you will have to replace it. Do not
keep adding nutrient! For the remainder of a month until flushing is
again required, add only water. This is because the nutrient does not
evaporate and if you keep adding nutrient your solution will become
too saline.
Formula Adjustments
Whether yours is a homemade or a commercial nutrient, there will be
times when adjustments are necessary. Formula adjustments are probably
the trickiest part of hydroponics, and caution should be used at all
times or you could destroy your entire crop in a matter of days.
If you are using a well-balanced, commercial nutrient and a correction
is necessary due to a deficiency that you can't identify, a foliar spray
may be the answer. You can make the spray from a very diluted mix of
nutrient and water. The easiest method would be to make up one quart
of nutrient solution at regular strength and then dilute it with water to a
one-to-seven or even a one-to-ten ratio. Use a mister and spray the
diluted solution on the leaves of the affected plants once a day for
several days. The leaves will absorb it quickly and spreading of the
symptoms should be reduced greatly in a short period of time. A foliar
spray can probably solve many of your trace element deficiency
problems.
A large-scale commercial grower will analyze the leaf tissue of his
plants every few days and make adjustments as necessary. Because this
requires a great deal of knowledge, time and money for equipment, it is
impractical for the modest home grower. In fact, it needn't be all that
important in a home system where you are experimenting with hydroponics,
raising relatively small crops and changing your nutrient solution
every three to four weeks. If you spend ten to fifteen minutes a day
with your system, you will find that in a few months you will be able to
read the signals given by your plants and be ready to make necessary
changes to the nutrient. Like anything else that's worthwhile, tuning in
to your plants takes time, but the rewards are great.
Water Supply
Ordinarily, your home water supply will be quite satisfactory for hydroponics,
but a few cautions should be given. Water from a water
softener should not be used, as it will be far too alkaline. On the other
hand, rain or distilled water would be fine, providing a reliable and
inexpensive supply could be maintained. Tapwater is average and it will
generally contain small amounts of trace elements that the plant can
use if it requires them. Water that is too pure may have to be
supplemented with slight increases of some trace elements, especially
calcium and magnesium. If the water is very hard, you will need less
calcium and magnesium but probably more iron, because iron becomes
less available to the plant as the hardness of the water increases. For
these reasons, it is a good idea to have an analysis done on your water
supply at your local utility. If you obtain your water from a well or source
other than a Public Works Department, you can contact your nearest
Agricultural Department for an address to send in a water sample. Any
analysis should include the content of calcium, magnesium, iron sulphate,
chloride and carbonate. In any case, it's probably worthwhile to
know what you are drinking and using in your home.
Many apartments and modern homes are hot and dry, and you
should bear in mind that these conditions can cause as much as a fifty
per cent decrease in the need for potassium. Under very humid conditions,
where the light level is lower, your plants will require more
potassium — as much as twice the normal amount. This is because
photosynthesis is more difficult with a lower light level and potassium is
necessary for photosynthesis.
Common Nutrient Deficiency Symptoms
One of the main problems in attempting to determine the cause of a
specific nutrient deficiency symptom is that almost everything sounds
the same. In fact, this is not so; there are small differences in each
problem. Like a doctor, you must attempt to isolate the symptoms and
study the case history. Even if you are only able to reduce the possible
causes to two or three at first, you can then isolate the symptoms, weigh
the factors leading up to the problem, further reduce the possibilities to
one or two at most, and take remedial action. The following chart will
help you do this.
Element Symptom
Nitrogen Small, stunted plants with very large root systems;
leaves smaller and lighter in colour than normal; slow
growth. Paleness will start at the tips of the lower
leaves. If this deficiency continues, the foliage
will continue to develop, but stems will be spindly,
sappy and soft, flowering will be delayed, small fruit
will grow and the plant will be more susceptible to
disease.
Phosphorus Stunted plants with dark, dull and sometimes
discoloured leaves, unusually hard stems, poor root
system, and very little branching. Attacks lower,
more mature leaves first. Occurs especially when
nitrogen level is low.
Potassium In early stages, yellowing and curling of older leaves.
Newer leaves will begin to droop. Older leaves then
become blotchy and scorched. Flowers are lackluster,
and stems are soft. The plant will be more susceptible
to diseases such as mildew and rust.
Calcium Underdeveloped roots are the first to be affected.
Younger leaves will be immobile and their edges will
curl. Plants will be stunted and have dark, crinkly
leaves. (See blossom end rot. Chapter 13.)
Magnesium Symptoms do not appear until the deficiency is well
established. The plant will be stunted. Leaf veins
will stay green while the remainder of the leaf turns
yellow. Brown spots will appear and then the plant
will dry out. Flowers will be slow to develop, if at
all. Flowers that do grow will be lackluster.
Iron Tips of new leaves will become either pale or yellow,
and this will spread inward. The leaf will likely turn
blotchy from a lack of green pigment, eventually
turning brown and drying out.
Manganese Poor blooming, weak growth. Leaves may turn yellow or
blotchy.
Boron Brittle stems, and immobile new leaves with brown tips.
Zinc Growth will be stunted.
It is not necessarily true that you will encounter any or all of these
imbalance problems. Because of your particular situation or environment,
however, you may find that from time to time specific problems
will arise. It is worth repeating that the watchword of hydroponics is
experimentation, as much in problem solving as in developing a system
that suits your needs.
Toxicity
The symptoms listed in this chapter are symptoms of element deficiencies.
On the other hand, a toxic (poisonous) situation can be created
when one or more elements are being supplied in excessive amounts. It
is very unlikely that such a situation will occur if the reader follows with
reasonable accuracy any of the hundreds of formulae available in books.
It seems unnecessary to load the novice with information on toxicity
that will likely never be needed. However, the real seeker of knowledge
should consult Hydroponic Food Production, by Howard M. Resh.
Hints for Storing and Making Nutrients
1. Store all fertilizer salts, trace elements and nutrients in airtight containers,
away from air and moisture.
2. When making your own nutrient, use a large, clean bowl for mixing.
The best instruments for crushing any crystals into a fine powder are
a mortar and pestle; the chemist's type is the finest, but kitchen
supply stores also carry adequate ones.
3. Grind trace elements separately and add these last, stirring everything
together very carefully.
4. Try to make sure all powders are completely dissolved in water before
application to your hydroponic system.
CO2 Enrichment
Carbon dioxide is absolutely essential for plant growth. This gas is
required for photosynthesis—turning light into energy. The optimum
level of 0.15 per cent CO2 in the air is required for most plants. The
minimum requirement is 0.03 per cent, which can be used up very
quickly in an enclosed indoor area. Studies show that the optimum
level can provide up to 25 per cent of additional growth to your plants.
You can add more carbon dioxide to the air by renting a tank of
CO2 from soft drink manufacturers or purchasing a CO2 generator,
which bums propane to create the gas. The generator is best for large
grow rooms or greenhouses. If you choose to rent a tank, you should use
a timer and flow meter to ensure that the expensive gas is not wasted.
Most people are familiar with the term pH, even if it is only a dim
memory from high school biology. Few bother to investigate what it
means, because it is unimportant to them in their daily lives. Becoming
involved in hydroponics, however, demands that you acquire a working
knowledge of pH. The term sounds scientific and difficult but, in fact,
pH simply means the relative acidity or alkalinity of a solution. In
hydroponics, we are interested in determining the pH level of water
before nutrient is added to it, making adjustments if necessary, and then
checking the level of the nutrient periodically.
The pH in your solution will change almost hour by hour at all
times, and without a computerized commercial system would be
impossible to totally control. But if you can maintain a reasonable
pH level, two or three times a week, it would be very beneficial to
your plants.
Determining pH
If we take a scale of 1 to 14, the centre point, or neutral position, is 7.
Everything above neutral is alkaline and everything below is acidic. To
determine accurate pH levels, each whole number is divided into ten
parts. Thus we have 6.8, 6.9, 7.0, 7.1, 7.2 and so on. When growing
several kinds of vegetables or herbs in one container, you will probably
do best in the slightly acidic range of 5.6 to 6.5, because it is within this
range that the nutrients are most available to the plants. For instance,
at 7.0, which is outside the most suitable range for vegetables, plants are
still capable of taking up such elements as nitrogen, phosphorus and
potassium. At this level, though, the trace elements arc hccoming lost
to the plants; the amounts of iron, manganese, boron, copper, zinc and
molybdenum are generally cut in half. So when the pH is above 7, be on
the lookout for trace element problems, rather than those caused by the
macronutrients nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
The two most common methods of determining pH level are by
indicator (litmus) paper and by indicator solution. Each method is
simple to use, readily available and sufficiently accurate for the home
grower. It is rather unlikely that your water supply will fluctuate in pH,
but if it does, a level check every two or three days may be necessary;
otherwise once a week will suffice.
Many areas have a water pH of 7.0 to 8.2. A good commercial
nutrient will likely have a small effect on this figure, pulling it down
closer to the desirable 5.6 to 6.5 range. With frequent changes of
nutrient solution, pH should not become a major problem.
In addition to the water pH and the effect of nutrient upon it,
there are two other important factors to consider. One is the hardness of
the water, and the second is the pH of the growing medium in combination
with water. If you failed to get a water analysis when working with
nutrients (see Chapter 3), you should certainly get one when determining
pH. The analysis will tell you how hard your water is.
Other variables affecting pH are climate, what plants you are
growing and how much nutrient each plant uses. There are many
combinations of these variables, which you will learn through experience.
The hobbyist who does not wish to become too involved in the
complications of pH will still get decent crops. Needless to say, the
experience of continuous growing will gradually teach you a great deal
about this subject.
Adjusting the pH Level
If your nutrient solution falls outside the 5.6 to 6.5 range, try the
following remedies:
1. To a solution that is too alkaline add one tablespoon of white
vinegar per three gallons (3.6 American gallons) of water and
check the pH level every eight hours. The waiting period has to
do with the fact that it sometimes takes a few hours for the
vinegar to work through the solution. Using vinegar is only a
temporary measure. On the whole it is too unstable to be
satisfactory for more than a few days.
2. To a solution that is too acidic simply add baking soda. It is
difficult to specify the quantity here due to wide variations in
water quality and nutrient balance. You might try one tablespoon
to three gallons of water. Experience will be the best
guide.
3. If you want to be more accurate, try adding phosphoric acid to a
solution that is too alkaline. It is considerably less dangerous
than the acids commonly used by commercial growers. Don't
let the word "acid" frighten you; phosphoric acid used carefully
is almost harmless. Just be sure to wash it off right away with
baking soda and water if you spill any on yourself.
During recent tests on water with a pH of 8.0 and a
hardness factor of 136 parts per million, 0.1 millilitres of
phosphoric acid were used to one gallon of water. The pH was
reduced to 6,8. For example, if the hardness was 172 parts per
million, one would add about 0.15 millilitres of the acid. There
are 5.0 millilitres to 1 teaspoon and 15 drops to 1.0 millilitre.
Therefore, in adding 0.1 millilitres you are using one and a half
drops. Again, let your solution mix with the acid and check the
pH about eight hours later and again twenty-four hours later.
Yet another way of adjusting the pH level is through the use of
dolmitic lime. It will not only raise the level of your nutrient from acidic
to more alkaline, but it also makes potassium more available to your
plants. In addition, lime provides the calcium and magnesium which
may be lacking in your water supply.
The best way to apply dolmitic lime is to sprinkle it evenly
throughout your drainage or growing medium. If you are using a layer of
vermiculite for drainage under the growing medium, this is the place to
apply it. On the other hand, when using a single growing medium of
rock or other substance, you should sprinkle the lime in a thin layer at
about half the depth of the aggregate. One tablespoon per two square
feet should be enough, but as in many other hydroponic "rules," you
will have to gain experience to determine the exact amount that is
required in your system. Lime should not be added continuously; it
should be applied only when you are certain your plants need it, or after
dismantling and cleaning the system thoroughly.
Run pH tests using the lime with combinations of water, nutrient
and growing media and record the information in a log. You may find
that your growing medium is very alkaline, if you are using some form of
lava stones or expanded oil shale. In such a situation, be careful of the
amount of lime you use.
Plant Preferences
There are vegetables that are classified as acidic lovers and those that do
well under more alkaline conditions. Should you develop your hydroponic
system to the point where you have several tanks in a greenhouse,
for instance, and you have a different herb or vegetable in each
tank, then it may be advisable to investigate and follow up on the individual
requirements of each plant. The following list gives the pH preferences
of common vegetables, herbs and fruits.
When growing combinations of vegetables, a good pH range is 5.6
to 6.5. A good range for growing herbs only is 5.6 to 7.0. If you are
growing combinations of vegetables and herbs try to maintain a 6.0 to
6.5 range.
Water Supply
As mentioned earlier, most communities have an alkaline water supply.
Be sure and safe; have your water checked. Try collecting rain water, if
your supply is of poor quality. Some adjustments will be necessary in
areas where the water is not relatively neutral. Pure water with no
mineral content may require additions of calcium and magnesium.
Using the table in Chapter 3, keep a close eye on your plants for mineral
problems, particularly iron deficiencies.
Adjustments in pH level are more difficult when using a commercial
nutrient, because you can more easily upset the nutrient balance.
Consult a local agricultural expert if you feel the need. Perhaps for those
growers with water problems, the only solution is homemade nutrients,
but I would try other ways first.
Some Simple pH Tests
Here are a few tests you can run that will help you understand some of
the prime pH variables, as well as gain some experience:
1. Do a pH test on your water
2. Do a pH test on your water adding nutrient
3. Do a pH test on your growing medium after adding water
4. Do a pH test on your water, nutrient and growing medium
combined
5. Try to obtain phosphoric acid (see the Resource List at the back
of this book) and do tests 1 to 4 again, but in each case add the
required amount of acid to obtain the range you desire.
Remember that you should always adjust the pH of your water
before adding nutrient. If necessary, adjust again after adding the
nutrient. In all cases of pH adjustment, record your test results and
reading in a log (sec page 131). This information should give you most
of the basics you will require to maintain a satisfactory pH level.
Bean, lima
Bean, pole
Beet
Broccoli
Brussels sprouts
Cabbage
Cantaloupe
Carrot
Cauliflower
Celery
Chicory
Chive
Cucumber
Eggplant
Endive
Garlic
Kale
6.0-7.0
6.0-7.5
6.0-7.5
6.0-7.0
6.0-7.5
6.0-7.5
6.0-7.5
5.5-7.0
5.5-7.5
5.8-7.0
5.0-6.5
6.0-7.0
5.5-7.0
5.5-6.5
5.8-7.0
5.5-8.0
6.0-7.5
Kohlrabi
Leek
Lettuce
Mustard
Okra
Onion
Parsley
Parsnip
Pea
Pepper
Radish
Sage
Soybean
Spinach
6.0-7.5
6.0-8.0
6.0-7.0
6.0-7.5
6.0-7.5
6.0-7.0
5.0-7.0
5.5-7.0
6.0-7.5
5.5-7.0
6.0-7.0
5.5-6.5
6.0-7.0
6.0-7.5
Squash, crookneck 6.0-7.5
Squash, hubbard
Strawberry
5.5-7.0
5.0-6.5
Swiss chard
Thyme
Tomato
6.0-7.5
5.5-7.0
5.5-7.5
Turnip
Watercress
Watermelon
5.5-6.8
6.0-8.0
5.5-6.5
Climate plays a vital role in the growing of plant life indoors. But for a
home hydroponic hobbyist, it would be both impractical and very
expensive to try to control climatic conditions totally. This would
necessitate keeping a tight climatic rein on the entire house, or at least a
sealed-off room.
The three main factors to consider are light, temperature and
humidity, factors that you can control to an adequate degree for indoor
growing. Given proper attention, the control of these three aspects will
definitely increase your crop yield.
Light
Photosynthesis is the process whereby a plant utilizes certain colour
wavelengths of light to manufacture energy. This energy is then used by
the plant as fuel for growth. It is obvious to all of us that plants need
some light each day in order to survive, and science has shown us that
major photosynthesis activity takes place when the red and blue
wavelengths are present. All plants have different light intensity requirements,
ranging from a far corner of a room to brilliant sunshine.
If you decide to grow hydroponic vegetables indoors, you must use
artificial lights, because, in order to fruit, vegetables require high light
levels to develop vast amounts of energy. Alternately, a good-sized
window with a south or west exposure will probably allow you to grow
herbs, leaf lettuce and possibly Tiny Tim tomatoes without lights.
Remember, though, that too much direct sunlight through a glass
The type or combination of types is important, but really depends
on what you are growing. A flowering plant requires stronger red than
green leaf plants such as lettuce or house plants. Choose your lighting
accordingly. One interesting way that this difference turns up is when
herbs are grown under a Plant Tube, where they flower much sooner
than under a plain Cool White tube. With some herbs, for example
those you want to go to seed for later crops, this is an asset, but for others
it is not.
The tungsten filament (light bulb) produces a spectrum that starts
in yellow and goes through orange to red. It provides none of the blue
that is needed for compact leaf growth. It is an efficient space heater,
however, it that's what you want. Remember the above points and use
the light bulb accordingly.
In their book. Gardening Indoors Under Lights, Fred and Jacqueline
Kranz suggest that far red in the spectrum is very important and found
that it is provided by the incandescent bulb. They also mention that it is
essential to maintain a proper ratio of far red to red rays. This was first
suggested by Dr. R. J. Downs, a member of the team that made imporwindow
magnifies into an inordinate amount of heat that could ruin
your crop. A shade of some sort should be used during the period of most
intense sun. Beyond these three crops, lights are certainly better and in
most cases necessary; but even when using them, it is a good idea to
place your hydroponic unit near a window.
When arranging where to put your hydroponic tanks, or when
purchasing a lighting fixture, try to use a light meter. In my experience,
the minimum requirement is one thousand foot-candle power.* (One
foot-candle power is the amount of light falling on one square foot of
space located one foot away from a high quality candle.) It is true that
you can grow indoors with less than this amount, but this depends on
what you are growing, and certainly most vegetables should have the
thousand or more.
For artificial lighting, you may use mercury vapour, sodium vapour,
metal halide lamps, tungsten filament or fluorescent. Fluorescent
lights are the most popular, and they can be broken down into several
groups: Regular High Power Factor (Bi-Pin), High Output and Very
High Output. Each is a different type of tube, and they are in ascending
order of light output as well as price. Within each type, there is a
selection of tubes of differing colour outputs; those that are useful to the
indoor gardener are listed below.
Tube Comments
Cool White The industry standard, and the least expensive —
strong blue, medium red.
Warm White Medium blue, medium red.
Strong yellow and orange give it the appearance of red.
Plant Tubes Strong blue, strong red. Sold under various brand
names, such as Gro-Lux and Agro-Lite.
Full Spectrum A new variety, resulting from research in photobiology.
Its spectrum is very close to sunlight,
with low-level ultraviolet included. This concept
looks promising for the future. Vita-Lite is the
most readily available at present.
tant discoveries in light spectrum analysis. The ratio of three watts
fluorescent to one watt incandescent is the best according to these
authors. Minor disparities, if not too marked, are acceptable. Therefore,
when using four 40 watt Cool White tubes, you should combine
them with two 15 watt incandescent bulbs.
Mercury and sodium vapour lamps are high pressure, high intensity
and high priced. They are suitable for large areas of high intensity
production. Their spectra are good for certain crops in conjunction
with sunlight, as in a commercial greenhouse, but they are somewhat
impractical at present for the family-sized, indoor hydroponic garden
for two reasons. The first is cost. Many people do not want to spend
three hundred dollars at an early stage of their new hobby. The second is
the high heat output of these lamps, which in turn causes high temperatures.
However, there is no doubt that this type of lighting will be
important in the future. Michigan State University, the University of
Guelph, the General Electric Company, Agriculture Canada and
Washington State University have all been conducting experiments
with mercury, sodium vapour and metal halide lamps. These lights,
whose foot-candle power at source almost matches the sun's, could
solve the problems of indoor and winter growing of vegetables.
Whatever kind of light you finally select, make sure it does not give
off too much heat. Should you, for example, decide to use a flood light,
it is important to remember that it produces a high degree of heat. The
only effective way to overcome this problem is to fix the socket at a
distance of two to four feet from your plants. Naturally, the farther
removed from the plants, the less effective is the light supply. The
correct approach is to employ a method that produces maximum spectrum;
minimum, non-required heat; and considerable light intensity.
The minimum requirement of one thousand foot-candle power at
the source can be achieved by using four 40 watt tubes that are fortyeight
inches long. If you decide to use a twenty-four inch length, you
will still need four tubes; they are now reduced to 20 watts, and the
intensity of the light is reduced although not proportionately.
One fixture that is currently being tested may be another solution
to the problem of lighting for indoor vegetable growing. It is a very
high-output fixture using 110 watt Power Groove fluorescent tubes.
These are still Cool White tubes that lack some of the red spectrum, but
this may be overcome by using two or three 15 watt incandescent bulbs.
Two main questions that are presently being probed are whether the
increased intensity compensates for the lack of red in this arrangement
and whether there is too much heat generated by the Power Groove.
Excessive heat, of course, could cause crop burn, especially if the 15
watt bulbs are used to round out the spectrum.
The temperature under your lights is of singular importance regardless
of light intensity. Should the leaf temperature go above 85° F
(29°C), the plant can no longer carry out photosynthesis to any great
extent. Remember that leaf temperature can be considerably higher
than room temperature. In this situation, a crucial part could be played
by a small fan placed near the growing area to circulate air and keep the
temperature within acceptable limits. Don't point the fan right at the
plants.
The Power Groove tubes have over 2000 foot-candle power. This
is the first time that anything over approximately 1200 foot-candle
power has been available from fluorescents. In addition to expense, the
problems of spectrum and temperature still must be solved to make the
use of such high-output fixtures suitable for the indoor gardener.
On the cheaper side of the spectrum, it is possible to use Cool
White tubes. As mentioned, the addition of two small incandescent
bulbs of 15 watts each will help make up for the deficiency of red in these
tubes. The materials to ask for are:
1. Four medium, bi-pin, rapid start Cool White tubes
2. Two 15 watt refrigerator bulbs. (These are smaller than a
standard 15 watt bulb, lessening the danger of direct contact
with foliage.)
3. A mount, preferably with a hood, to hold these items.
Another combination that works well is two Warm White and two
COOL White tubes. As seen by the table below, deficiencies of spectrum
can be kept to a minimum when tubes are used in combination.
RELATIVE LIGHT EMISSION QUANTITIES OF
WHITE FLUORESCENT LAMPS
Name
Cool White
Day Light
Warm White
Natural White
Violet-Blue
Required by Plants
good
excellent
deficient
deficient
Orange-Red
Required by Plants
good
deficient
very good
excellent
If you are going to invest in the more expensive category of
grow-tubes, it is worthwhile to get the best. In my opinion, this is the
DurO'Test Vita-Lite medium, bi-pin rapid start tube. No extra tubes are
necessary when using such a fixture, because four of these tubes produce
enough red by themselves.
These recommendations don't discount the fact that there are
mixed views by the experts on what is the best light source for indoor
vegetable growing. Part of the reason for these divergent views is that
nothing yet devised by man is able to totally replace the sun, which
provides us with eight to ten thousand foot-candle power on a bright
day. Everything we use for indoor hydroponics is at best a poor second.
When setting up your own or buying a lighting system for your
indoor garden, don't forget that most plant fixtures use only two
fluorescent tubes, just enough for ornamental plants, but often insufficient
for vegetables, some herbs and flowers. Your hydroponic
system will need four tubes and at least one thousand foot-candle power
illumination at the source. Even with the four tubes, depending on
their kind, of course, power consumption can be kept as low as 190
watts, no more than a table lamp. On a dull, slightly overcast day,
there is often more light outside than with a four-tube fixture.
PRACTICAL USE OF LIGHTING
Keep the light low over the plants. Two to four inches is reasonable.
Vegetables, flowers and herbs need much stronger light than ordinary
house plants. If they don't get it, they will grow weak, spindly and pale.
Raise the light source whenever the growing plants touch the tubes
or bulbs. Two feet is the highest it should be raised; otherwise the lower
plants won't get enough light.
Illuminate your plants sixteen to eighteen hours a day. An occasional
night with the lights on is less harmful than a day with them off.
To make things easier, plug the light into an automatic, heavy-duty,
grounded timer - the kind that accepts a three-pronged plug.
Temperature
Indoors or outdoors, vegetables grow best within a definite temperature
range of 55°F (13°C) to 85°F (29°C). Indoors, you are striving for an
average range of 72°F (22°C) during the day and 62-65°F (16-18°C) at
night. Plants need this day and night variance, for during the day they
manufacture energy and at night they assimilate it and grow. Without a
definite temperature variation, the plants will receive confusing signals
and attempt to continue producing energy continuously.
Temperature is also linked to the rate of photosynthesis. Plants
can live, but they cease to grow as the temperature approaches the
freezing point. Temperate zone plants have an upper limit of about
85-90*F (29-32'C). Above this level, functions such as flower growth
SOME LIGHT LEVEL REQUIREMENTS
Very High High Medium
Eggplant Bean Beet Mustard
Pepper Cantaloupe Brussels sprouts Parsley
Tomato Corn Cabbage Parsnip
Cucumber Carrot Pea
Okra Cauliflower Radish
Spanish onion Celery Spinach
Squash Chive Spring onion
Zucchini Kale Swiss chard
Kohlrabi Turnip (medium
Leek to high)
Lettuce
can be reversed. Tropical zone plants, on the other hand, have a higher
tolerance through natural adaptation.
If you are growing indoors during the summer, air conditioning
might be a good idea, because high, oppressive heat without good air circulation
can cause excessive transpiration and wilting. However, air conditioning
may result in humidity problems, so you may have to do a little
experimenting to strike the right combination. If you do use an air conditioner,
it is better to either run it all the time, or only at night; otherwise
you may unwittingly be sending scrambled signals to your plants. Of
course, my own recommendation is to move your hydroponic garden
outside for the summer where you will be taking advantage of natural
(and free) sunlight without the bother of temperature and light problems.
The winter is another story altogether. Many people live in a
winter environment where the temperature is constantly changing.
This could occur, for example, in an old three or four storey apartment
building that is heated with hot water radiators. The superintendent
stokes up the boiler and everyone swelters; the radiators cool down and
everyone freezes. The individual tenant has little or no control over the
consistency of heat, short of opening a window or turning on the stove.
Under such conditions, careful consideration and planning must be
given to temperature control. Turning your growing lights off every
evening for six to eight hours will provide some of the required temperature
drop but not more than about 5°F (3°C).
Plants dislike drafts, so consideration must be given to where your
plants are placed relative to doors and windows during the winter. Your
hydroponic tanks should not be placed over forced air vents or radiators.
The high temperature blasts that occur in such situations can
convey confusing signals to the plants, because one area is very warm
while another is considerably cooler. These high temperatures can also
cause excessive transpiration and dehydration. The eventual results of
these problems, if uncorrected, can be uneven growth, dropping of
leaves and perhaps an end to growth.
While fluorescent lighting is not one of the most effective ways to
light your garden, it is certainly the least expensive and it does provide
results. You can often obtain old industrial fixtures that will serve the
purpose if you are not concerned with appearances.
However, there is now a wide variety of some very effective (but
expensive) ways to ensure growth of vegetables. The metal halide lamp
is the best as a full-spectrum light source. The heat it generates must be
removed by an exhaust fan or some other method. However, if your
garden is in a cool area, the heat can be used to warm it.
The mercury vapour lighting is not full-spectrum and should only
be used in a greenhouse or under a large skylight in conjunction with
natural light. If you decide to use high-pressure lighting, your dealer can
direct you to the most effective method for your hydroponic system.
Humidity
Humidity plays an important role in hydroponics, but if you are
growing in a house or apartment, you will find that this is the one
aspect of climate over which you have relatively little control unless
you have a humidifier-dehumidifier. Too much humidity will probably
be less of a problem than too little humidity. If your growing area is
too dry, you could install an inexpensive humidifier. Because the
growing area is usually small and confined, greenhouse hydroponics
for the hobbyist makes humidity easier to adjust, although it may be
expensive.
Do keep in mind, however, that a hydroponic system in your
home is a wonderful, natural humidifier during the winter. In most
North American homes, the air is far too dry, leading to various respiratory
problems and colds. A hydroponic system provides humidity in two
ways; through evaporation of the water in the nutrient solution, and
through plant transpiration. This is yet another area where hydroponics
give Mother Nature a helping hand.
Anything can be taken beyond reasonable limits, though, and I
can remember a few years ago having sixteen tanks in an enclosed, ten
by ten foot room. Needless to say, the room was soon like a rain forest! I
ended up installing an air conditioner to pull some of the moisture out.
It is important to remember that plants need some humidity, especially
during germination, but that a balance needs to be struck between the
rain forest and the desert.
The pollination period is also affected by humidity. As mentioned
in Chapter 2, growing indoors makes it necessary for you to do your own
pollinating, and if the humidity is too high or too low this process
becomes more difficult. The whole question of pollination will be
covered in Chapter 10.
Indoors, lighting affects temperature, while temperature and
humidity go hand in hand. An ideal temperature-humidity combination
for vegetables is 40 per cent relative humidity at70°F(21°C). This
simply means that 40 per cent of the atmosphere is moisture vapour at
that temperature. Because warm air is capable of carrying a greater
proportion of moisture than cold air before it precipitates (rain, fog),
the 40 per cent figure at 70°F means a greater amount of moisture is
present than at 65°F (18°C) with the same humidity reading.
Plants prefer relatively high humidity. If the air around them is too
dry, they will transpire more in an effort to increase the amount of
moisture in the air. In effect, low humidity could make the plants
exhaust themselves. When people perspire, they need to replace the
lost body fluids or they risk dehydration. Plants must also be able to
absorb high amounts of water under low humidity conditions to keep up
with the rate of transpiration. Often they are unable to do so, and the
plants wilt. Tropical vegetables and fruits, such as cantaloupe and
cucumber, like an even higher humidity level than most other plants. A
good idea during the intense heat of a summer afternoon is to mist your
plants two or three times. This will lessen the need for water through
the root system and also reduce the rate of transpiration.
Because our indoor living environments are frequently very dry, it
would be a good idea to purchase an inexpensive humidity measuring
device and give high priority to both humidity and temperature. High
humidity is not nearly as much of a problem for two reasons: first, it is
unlikely that you will be able to create such a situation in your home,
and second, plants can cope with a high reading, but not its opposite.
The only possible problems that could be caused by too high a humidity
are the development of mold or mildew and, as mentioned earlier, the
effect it could have on pollination.
When using your hydroponic unit indoors, make sure you establish
a definite daily temperature variance with warmer days and cooler
nights. There are energy saving thermostats on the market that do this
automatically. In fact, I should point out that plants, like children, love
a routine. The daytime temperature, nighttime temperature and the
periods of having your lights on and off should always be as consistent as
possible.
Here are the temperature preferences of the most common hydroponically
grown vegetables. Keep in mind that 40 per cent humidity at
70°F (21°C) is your base figure for measuring the environment.
Remember, too, that an indoor atmosphere often contains dust
and smoke. Regular spraying with water, about once a week, will clean
plant pores and wash off dirt accumulations. Although such plants as
cantaloupe, cucumber and zucchini like high humidity readings, they
are not fond of excessive amounts of water on their leaves. Washing
may cause a mildew infection on the leaves.
Cool: 50 to 70°F (10 to 20°C)
Beet
Broccoli
Leek
Lettuce
Brussels sprouts Onion
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Celery
Chive
Kohlrabi
Pea
Radish
Spinach
Watercress
Warm: 60 to 80°F (16 to 26°C)
Bean Squash
Chinese cabbage Tomato
Corn
Cucumber
Eggplant
Melon
Okra
Pepper
For many people, a great deal of satisfaction will be gained from building
a hydroponic system. For others, the interest and delight will centre
around the actual planting and growing. Both groups are interested in
good harvests. This chapter deals with starting up your system, whether
built or bought, using seeds, transplants and cuttings.
In hydroponics, anything will grow: exotics — coconut palms,
vanilla, ginger and nutmeg; houseplants — roses, carnations and zinnias;
as well as edible plants ~ tomatoes, celery and basil. The choice is
yours, and the only limitation is the depth of the medium for some root
vegetables. You can grow flowers for cutting, house plants for decorat
ion, or, best of all, vegetables and herbs to improve your meals.
When choosing vegetables to grow, you'll want to begin with
those that taste best fresh and taste worst from the supermarket: tomatoes,
lettuce, green peppers, wax beans, etc. Other vegetables, such
as potatoes, carrots and turnips, don't suffer too much from long storage
and are still worth buying from the corner chain store. So if you don't
have any specific preferences start with tomatoes, lettuce, celery and
spring onions, with a few herbs thrown in. Chapters 7 and 8 take a close
look at raising edible plants: the information given in this chapter will
hold for almost any plant.
Selecting Your Seeds
Be sure to ask for seed varieties especially suited for home growing.
Commercial seed varieties have been bred for toughness and long shelf
life in the supermarket at the expense of fragrance and flavour. You can
plant more fragile, and more tasty, vegetable and herb varieties in your
hydroponic garden.
Because very few seeds have been developed specifically for
hydroponics, there are some hints to keep in mind. As an indoor home
grower, you are better off with a bush or patio tomato, rather than a vine
type, because of the unwieldy height the vines may grow to. Self-polli'
nating cucumbers are the easiest to use indoors, but if you take your
garden outdoors, the self-pollinating cukes will be pollinated by insects
and grow deformed. Leaf lettuce will yield a high volume of leaves in a
few weeks, while head lettuce takes a bit longer. If you decide to use
head lettuce, why not treat it as leaf lettuce and simply pick the leaves
fresh for your salads. Boston and Buttercrunch are two popular varieties.
Other than these general considerations, go ahead and use any seed
that interests you.
Besides obtaining seeds from garden centres and hardware stores,
there are other, more interesting ways of getting them. Your spice rack is
a fascinating source of seeds: coriander, caraway, mustard (great salad
greens, by the way), celery, pepper, chili, fennel, dill and anise. From
your pantry you can plant dried beans, lentils, chick peas, plain peas
(not the split kind), and so on. Your table is another good source. If you
like the taste of a cucumber, squash, tomato or melon, save the seeds
and plant them with the pulp still clinging to them — that way they'll
germinate even faster than dried seeds. It won't always work, because
the seeds may have come from sterile hybrids, but it's fun to try.
You might also want to let your healthiest plants go to seed and
use them for your next planting. Sometimes this gives superb results,
but when hybrids are involved, it may not always be successful.
Seeding
You can plant seeds directly into your hydroponic garden, although the
cautions concerning the flood and drain system mentioned earlier
should be kept in mind. With a flood system it would be better to seed
in jiffy pots, and at the right stage of development place the plant, jiffy
pot and all, in your growing medium. In order to keep your main unit
functioning at full capacity, you might wish to build or buy a smaller
"nursery" tank. Raising seedlings in this way makes it possible to locate
your plants precisely where you want them and to replace harvested
plants with already grown seedlings raring to go.
A good, inexpensive growing medium is a combination of equal
parts of fine vermiculite and peat moss. But a new and widely used product
is rockwool. It is a sterile medium made from molten rock for horticultural
use. You can seed directly into the rockwool and then transplant the
seedling roots, rockwool and all, right into your hydroponic system.
Plant your seeds closer together than indicated on store-bought
packages. The roots of hydroponic plants don't have to compete with
each other for nutrient and much closer spacing is possible. You can
soak the seeds overnight in water for faster germination. Plant two
seeds wherever you want to end up with one plant. If both come up,
snip off the smaller one with scissors. Tuck your seeds into the growing
medium no deeper than one or two pebbles or one-half inch.
Most seeds germinate best in darkness, warmth and moisture.
These conditions may be created by covering your seeds with dark
plastic film (a piece of heavy, green garbage bag will do). For those
seeds that germinate best in light, use clear plastic. (See Herb Planting
Guide, p. 86.) In windy locations, keep the germination covers from
blowing away by placing a few pieces of growing medium on top.
Check every day (religiously!) under the covers for results. As
soon as the first sprouts poke through the medium, take the covers off
and let the light and air get at the seedlings. Failure to remove the
covers soon enough will cause the seedlings to bolt. That is, they will
grow long and spindly trying to get out from under the covers. If that
happens, you may as well pull them out and start over. When part of a
seeded planter has sprouted and part hasn't, cut or fold the covers as
needed. Some seeds come up fast (basil, cucumbers), others are quite
slow (parsley, peppers), so don't give up.
Identify what you have seeded with plant markers. Use a waterproof
felt pen or pencil so that the writing won't wash off. If your seeds
don't sprout, there are five possible reasons:
1. The seed bed is too cold for them (less than 56°F or 13°C)
2. You have bought old seed that is no longer fertile. This may be
a problem if they came from your spice rack. (See Chapter 12
for seed storage.)
3. Your seeds were not treated for fungus resistance and have been
eaten by fungus (fuzz on the kernels you dig up). Most organic
gardeners prefer not to buy treated seeds, so it may be necessary
to plant more seeds to have enough germinate. Also the seed
bed may be too moist.
4. You've put your seeds under their germination covers, placed
them in the bright, hot sun and cooked them. (Always keep a
newly seeded garden out of direct summer sunlight.)
5. The seeds have come from sterile hybrids.
Transplants
When transplanting into a hydroponic garden, you'll notice some
amazing facts. First, the transplanted plants keep right on growing
without any shock, wilting or drooping. Second, you can successfully
transplant not only small seedlings, but even fully grown plants as long
as you do not damage their roots.
An ordinary egg carton will serve as a homemade nursery for
raising seedlings to transplant. Any egg box will do, but the waterproof,
plastic type is best. This will start you off with as many as twelve tomato
plants, or any other type of seedling you wish to raise. If you use vermiculite
or perlite as the growing medium in your nursery, the amount that
clings to the roots when you transplant will not harm the effectiveness
of the medium in your main unit. Don't be afraid to insert both the root
system and the stem of your transplant up to the first set of leaves in the
growing medium. The stem will develop root hairs, and a stronger plant
will result.
Transplants that come from soil have to have their roots washed
gently but completely to remove any dirt clinging to them. Use cold
water, running steadily from the tap. The water will help to loosen the
soil, while its coldness has an anaesthetizing effect on the plant. By the
time the transplant "comes to," it is already growing in its new environment
and is unlikely to go into shock. You will probably have less
success transplanting vegetables from soil than you will the hardier
herbs or house plants.
Some shock will be apparent when transplanting flowering house
plants like African Violets from soil. The plant will probably lose all its
flowers, and it might even wilt considerably. Don't despair. There is an
excellent chance that the plant will survive, and in five to six days you
will see it perk up. Then the plant will likely go through a new flowering
cycle and give you some of the best blooms you have ever seen.
No washing is, of course, necessary with hydroponically raised
transplants. For both methods, though, the byword is be gentle with the
roots.
To transplant, simply make a hole in the growing medium down
through the drainage medium if you are using one. Drop the roots in and
close the growing medium around them. Do not try to untangle the
roots from vermiculite or perlite used in a nursery. With soil transplants,
try to spread the clean, exposed roots around a little.
Cuttings
Any plants that will successfully root from cuttings can be placed
directly into your soilless garden. Clean the leaves from the last two
inches of stem, and, if possible, coat the stem with a root hormone.
This procedure is not as useful with vegetables as it is with some herbs
and decorative plants. Still, it is not only fun, but free, to collect a few
cuttings from your friends. The possibilities are endless. For example,
one good trick with tomatoes is to let a few suckers grow on a plant until
they are three or four inches long, cut them off at the base and stick
them deeply into your growing medium. That way, you'll have more
tomato plants.
Although seeds can be placed closer together in hydroponics than
they can in soil, don't forget that different plants require different amounts
of room to spread their leaves and fruit. In the next chapters we will look at
specific plant varieties and discuss the amount of room each requires in a
hydroponic garden.
As mentioned in the seeding section of this chapter, you can use
a plastic egg package. Here is an ideal way to make your own little
automatic nursery so you do not have to be constantly there to water
your seedlings. Warning: Eat the eggs first and then proceed. Use a
paring or steak knife and put a slit in the bottom of each egg
segment. Fill each segment about three quarters full with peat moss.
Drop a seed on top and cover over with another quarter of an inch of
peat moss. Set the seeded egg package in a pie plate or other dish with
a bit of a high side to it. Then place three-eighths to one-half inch of
plain water in the dish. The peat moss will drain the water rather fast,
hut once it is saturated the peat will only take up what it requires.
Every few days add a bit of water.
Always use plain water on your seedlings for the first two weeks
or so. Don't use any nutrient. This forces the plant to develop a good
strong root system in its search for nutrient. After two weeks, or if the
leaves become too pale and yellow, start using a bit of nutrient. Try to
rime your planting of seeds so that the seedlings can be transplanted in
about four weeks. If you wait too long, the root systems will get all
hound up in the small nursery segments. This is especially important
when you use a hydroponic nursery to start your seeds for the backyard
garden in the spring. If the roots become bound after four weeks and
the plants are transplanted into soil, the roots will have difficulty
developing in their search for food. If you are late because of poor
timing, use a nutrient solution every two days or so to water your freshly
(ransplanted seedlings. Do this for about two weeks.
Almost any plant or vegetable will grow hydroponically. The questions
you have to ask yourself are: why do you want to grow it? What is your
purpose for having a hydroponic garden? How large is your unit? How
many units do you have?
If you are planning to use your soilless garden for a hobby or to pass
the time, go ahead and have fun. Plant whatever interests you, and
don't be afraid to experiment. The level of knowledge of hydroponics
today is about the same as that in mathematics two hundred years ago.
We- have much to learn about the subject, and you can help. Even the
experts are constantly learning and experimenting. In my opinion, the
inly criterion is to have fun. Try everything.
For those who are really serious about the crops they want to
harvest, my advice is to stick mostly to salad vegetables. Through
hybridization, it is mainly the salad vegetables that commercial growers
have altered until much of their original nutritional value and flavour
have been lost. Plastic lettuce, swampy tomatoes, soggy radishes and
hollow celery are only a few examples.
Of course, you will be limited by the amount of space, time and
money you have to devote to the whole idea. Practical considerations
should come into play here. For example, six tomato vines, each
producing six pounds of tomatoes from a sixteen by twenty-four inch
container is a more efficient use of space than sixteen stalks of corn.
The following instructions are given to help the home hydroponic
vegetable grower. (A few fruits that can be grown hydroponically have
also been included.) Information given on nutrient requirements will
be helpful for those people who are making their own. There are a few
general points to keep in mind. When several species of vegetables are
grown in one tank and a commercial nutrient is used, care must be
taken not to upset the balance. Also remember, when seeding or
transplanting into your soilless garden, that the entire area can be
utilized for growing and the limitation on how far apart to place your
seeds is conditional upon the physical air space the plant requires to
grow. For example, a pea vine climbing up a string requires far less air
space than a bushy tomato vine.
BEANS
Beans will grow winter or summer, indoors or out. In winter, grow bush
beans indoors. In summer, grow pole beans outdoors. Pole varieties can
be tied up and grown vertically. They can be planted quite close
together (about six inches). As their name implies, bush beans tend to
take up more room. Beans require less nitrogen than other crops but
need large amounts of phosphorus, potassium and sulphur. Limas do not
produce as large a crop, and they take longer to mature.
CABBAGE
1 have grown cabbage without letting it head. As you would for leaf
lettuce, pick the leaves for dinner and let it keep on growing. Plant six
inches apart. Cabbage requires cool weather and high levels of nitroj^'
en, phosphorus and iron.
CARROTS
Gourmet carrots are better to grow than the common varieties because
of the depth of the growing medium. Plant about one and a half inches
apart. Potassium and phosphorus are important.
CAULIFLOWER
1 have had bad luck with cauliflower for good reasons. It is very
susceptible to temperature variations. If you are growing cauliflower
with other crops, it is better to grow it with plants having moderately
cool requirements. Plant about eight inches apart. Nitrogen, phosphorus
and iron are required in larger amounts.
CELERY
This is a great salad vegetable to grow. Celery does best on the cool side,
and it dislikes temperature extremes. Plant about four inches apart and
use the young stalks and leaves for your salad. It is best about two
months old and pencil thin. By the time it is four months old, it is useful
only for soups and stews. Don't uproot an entire plant; simply cut off a
few stalks at a time. Larger amounts of sodium and chlorine are usually
important.
CHARD
This is a good crop that can be harvested much like head lettuce. Keep
removing the outer leaves for your meals. Plant four inches apart and
keep cool. Chard is fantastic c(X)ked like spinach.
BEETS
Root vegetables are best grown in vermiculite with relatively little
soaking. Only a slight covering of haydite or gravel should be used to
minimize algae buildup. Most varieties of beets do well. They like cool
temperatures. Plant about three inches apart. Grow smaller beets, and
more of them, for greater tenderness.
BROCCOLI
Several experts claim that this is a good crop. I have not grown many,
because it is not a personal favourite. Transplants should be used,
spaced seven inches apart. Broccoli likes cool weather (60°F, I6°C).
Large amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and iron can be important.
CORN
Corn is a possible crop, but it is not popular, because of the small
harvest. Plant midget corn about six inches apart.
CUCUMBERS
Along with lettuce and tomatoes, this is a popular commercial crop. If
you don't wish to cross-pollinate (see Chapter 10), plant the English or
seedless variety. These grow well indoors or in greenhouses, but if you
grow them outdoors and insects do the pollinating, you may end up with
some unusually shaped cukes. They like hot weather and direct sunlight
and are sometimes susceptible to mildew.
EGGPLANT
This is a possible but not a popular crop. Eggplants are slow germinators
and like warm weather. They will grow larger if you pinch some of the
flowers off, allowing only a few fruit per vine. Extra amounts of nitrogen,
phosphorus and potassium are required, but reduce the nitrogen, if
possible, after the fruit has formed.
LEEK
You'll get a good crop by adding increased amounts of nitrogen and
potassium and extra amounts of phosphorus.
LETTUCE
Boston and New York are popular heading varieties, but leaf lettuce
yields a larger harvest. If you do grow head lettuce, remove the outer
leaves for salads without waiting for it to head and you can increase your
crop. Grand Rapids and Salad Bowl are great leaf lettuce, but don't forget
Romaine (Romagna) for Caesar Salad.
In six weeks or less you can have an abundance of lettuce. However,
caution should be exercised during the first two weeks. Lettuce
will bolt (small leaves will grow on a long, stringy stem) with in-
Mifhcient light or high temperatures. Varieties that don't bolt as fre-
^\\\cndy are Black-Seeded Simpson, Endive, Escarolle and Batavia. It
would be a good idea to cut back on your nutrient a bit for this crop.
lettuce likes it cool (50-70°F, 10-21°C) with high nitrogen levels.
Plant about four inches apart, close to the edges of your planter so that
the heads hang over them.
MELONS
The growing techniques for melons are similar to those for cucumbers.
They like to be warm both day and night. High humidity causes
mildew, so keep them well ventilated. Honey Dew is a good cantaloupe,
and if you want to try watermelon, get an early variety such as Sugar
baby. Remember to cross-pollinate. Tie up the vines, and when growing
indoors, provide plenty of light.
ONIONS
Spring Onions or Green Bunching are popular. They should be sown
rather heavily, one-half inch apart. Requires larger amounts of potassium
and nitrogen.
PEAS
All varieties do well in hydroponics, but try Snow Peas with their sweet
and flavourful edible pods. Use a lot of plants to get several good meals.
Tie them up or let them grow up a trellis. Plant three inches apart and
maintain cool temperatures.
PEPPERS
All peppers are great to grow: Green Bell, Yellow Banana or Chili. Grow
them together or separately. Peppers are fond of warm weather. Plant
them six inches apart and watch for damping off. Peppers are harder to
grow indoors than out because they need high light levels that are not
always obtainable with indoor lighting. My experience is that peppers
and tomatoes don't like each other. I haven't met anyone or read any
book that makes this claim, yet when I have the two side by side
indoors, the tomatoes stop growing. (A list of "friends" and "enemies"
will be found under the heading Companion Planting at the end of this
chapter.)
SQUASH AND ZUCCHINI
these are grown in basically the same way as cucumbers, but remember
how much space a zucchini occupies and plant eight to nine inches
apart. Pinch the plant off after six or seven sets of leaves to keep the
energy closer to the root system and to ensure fruiting.
STRAWBERRIES
These are good for hydroponics, but not very economical unless you are
intercropping (see page 76). Try to get a self-pollinating variety like
Ozark Beauty. Plant them eight inches apart and sit back for a long
time. Strawberry plants, like asparagus, need two to three years to
mature.
TOMATOES
Although the tomato is really a fruit, it is commonly counted among the
vegetables. This is one of the best and most satisfying hydroponic crops.
Indoors you should seed bush or patio tomatoes, so that the plants will
stay nicely under your lights. Outdoors you could grow staking tomatoe;
hut the bush variety is still easier to work with in hydroponics, especially
if the vines have not yet finished producing when you are ready to
bring them in at the end of the summer.
Seed tomatoes for the early and late outdoor crop as shown here.
Use a similar seeding pattern even if you use less than half of a planter.
Plant the seeds for your early tomato crop in February or March indoors
under lights and move them outdoors in April or May. Fan out the
plants on your balcony or patio using strings or trellises as shown on
RADISHES
Most varieties are suitable, but as with beets, it is better to grow them in
vermiculite and plant about one and one-half inches apart. Keep the
vermiculite about half as moist as you normally would. Radishes bolt
very easily, so make sure they have ample light and cool temperatures.
Water only should be used for the first two or three weeks when radishes
are being grown by themselves. Normally, radishes are grown in the
worst part of a soil garden, but in hydroponics, they have the best of
everything, and if you aren't careful you will get a lot of tops before the
root has a chance to grow.
SPINACH
Spinach can be a fast crop. Plant two to three inches apart. Cool
temperatures and plenty of nitrogen are needed.
OTHER VEGETABLES
There are many other vegetables you might want to plant. If you are not
familiar with their growing, read one of the many books on home
gardening. Herbs are covered in the next chapter.
Basically, you can grow anything outdoors, regardless of how far its
vines may spread. Indoors you can only grow what you can illuminate,
and you are better off sticking to bush, dwarf or patio varieties that will
stay under your lights. Other types of plants will have to be pruned
when they grow tall or when their vines range too far. I recommend that
you concentrate indoors on such crops as lettuce, tomatoes, other salad
vegetables and herbs — all items that provide nutrition at a time when it
is most needed and most expensive from the supermarket.
Outdoors it makes sense to use the available hydroponic growing
area to its fullest. This may be done by intercropping and outcropping.
Intercropping means combining two or more different plants in space
and time. That is, you can place short plants at the base of tall ones and
fast growing plants between slower types. A fast growing crop, such as
radishes or leaf lettuce, will have come up and been harvested by the
time the space is needed for a slower crop.
Outcropping means letting your plants spread out from the planter,
up, down and sideways. The layout shown here gives you an idea of
how to obtain growth and yield far greater than the available growing
area seems to permit.
A few reminders are in order. If you want to grow root vegetables,
like carrots and radishes, there are two things to keep in mind. First,
irrigate them for the first week or two after planting with plain water
only, until they have established themselves as short, stocky plants.
Only then add nutrient to the water. Second, you shouldn't grow
anything with a root much longer than three inches because of the
relatively shallow depth of the medium. This is not a problem with
round radishes, only the icicle variety, and there are short, barrelshaped
carrot varieties on the seed shelf too.
Companion Planting
Plants don't make a sound, and you'd think that their world was all
peace and harmony. Not so — among plants there are definite friends
and enemies. Some plants protect each other from insect infestations,
while others provide shade for their friends. Still others just like each
other and grow better if they are neighbours. In hydroponics, you will
probably be asking two or more plants to grow happily together. Here is
the list. Keep the friends and enemies apart.
Plant
anise
asparagus
basil, sweet
bean, bush
Friends
coriander
basil
parsley
tomato
asparagus
beet
cabbage
carrot
cauliflower
cucumber
potato
summer savory
strawberry
Enemies
rue
fennel
garlic
onion
rue
shallot
Plant
bean , pole
Beet
Borage
Broccoli
Brussels sprouts
Cabbage
Camomile
Caraway
Carrot
Friends
carrot
cauliflower
corn, sweet
cucumber
radish
savory
bean, bush
cabbage
chive
kohlrabi
lettuce
onion
shallot
strawberry
cabbage
tomato
tomato
bean, bush
beet
broccoli
camomile
celery
dill
lettuce
mint
potato
sage
cabbage
—
bean, bush
bean, pole
chive
leek
lettuce
onion
pea rosemary
potato sage
radish tomato
Enemies
beet
fennel
garlic
kohlrabi
onion
shallot
bean, pole
-
—
-
bean, pole
strawberry
tomato
—
fennel
dill
Companion Planting
Plants don't make a sound, and you'd think that their world was all
peace and harmony. Not so — among plants there are definite friends
and enemies. Some plants protect each other from insect infestations,
while others provide shade for their friends. Still others just like each
other and grow better if they are neighbours. In hydroponics, you will
probably be asking two or more plants to grow happily together. Here is
the list. Keep the friends and enemies apart.
Plant
bean, pole
beet
borage
broccoli
Brussels sprouts
cabbage
camomile
caraway
carrot
Friends
carrot
cauliflower
corn, sweet
cucumber
radish
savory
bean, bush
cabbage
chive
kohlrabi
lettuce
onion
shallot
strawberry
cabbage
tomato
tomato
bean, bush
beet
broccoli
camomile
celery
dill
lettuce
mint
potato
sage
cabbage
bean, bush
bean, pole
chive
leek
lettuce
onion
pea rosemary
potato sage
radish tomato
Enemies
beet
fennel
garlic
kohlrabi
onion
shallot
bean, pole
—
—
-.
bean, pole
strawberry
tomato
fennel
dill
Plant
anise
asparagus
basil, sweet
bean, bush
Friends
coriander
basil
parsley
tomato
asparagus
beet
cabbage
carrot
cauliflower
cucumber
potato
summer savory
strawberry
Enemies
rue
fennel
garlic
onion
rue
shallot
Plant
cauliflower
celeriac
celery
chervil
chives
coriander
corn, sweet
cucumber
dill
fennel
Friends
bean, bush
bean, pole
tomato
bean, bush
cauliflower
cabbage
leek
tomato
bean, bush
cabbage
cauliflower
leek
tomato
radish
beet
carrot
anise
bean, bush
bean, pole
cucumber
pea
potato
pumpkin
squash
bean, bush
bean, pole
pea
radish
sunflower
cabbage
Enemies
bean
pea
fennel
aromatic herbs
potato
sage
carrot
tomato
bean, bush
bean, pole
caraway
coriander
kohlrabi
tomato
Plant
garlic
grape
hyssop
kale
kohlrabi
leek
lettuce
onion
parsley
pea
Friends
beet
onion
hyssop
grape
tomato
beet
onion
carrot
celeriac
celery
onion
beet
cabbage
carrot
cucumber
onion
radish
strawberry
beet
carrot
garlic
kohlrabi
lettuce
savory
strawberry
tomato
asparagus
tomato
bean
carrot
corn, sweet
cucumber
potato
radish
turnip
Enemies
bean, bush
bean, pole
pea
radish
bean, pole
fennel
tomato
bean, bush
bean, pole
pea
~
garlic
onion
shallot
Plant
pumpkin
radish
rosemary
rue
sage
summer savory
shallot
spinach
squash
strawberry
sunflower
tomato
turnip
Friends
corn, sweet
bean, pole
carrot
chervil
cucumber
lettuce
nasturtium
pea
sage
cabbage
rosemary
bean, bush
beet
strawberry
com
nasturtium
bean, bush
borage
lettuce
onion
spinach
cucumber
asparagus
carrot
chive
kale
marigold
nasturtium
nettle, stinging
onion
parsley
pea
Enemies
potato
hyssop
—
sweet basil
cucumber
bean, bush
bean, pole
pea
—
cabbage
potato
cabbage
dill
fennel
kohlrabi
Garden Flowers and House Plants
This chapter has concentrated on vegetables and the next will centre
on herbs. But let's not forget flowers and house plants. Anything that
blossoms in a dirt garden or flower pot will do even better in a hydroponic
planter, summer or winter, from asters to zinnias. The same holds
true for house plants. They are children of the tropics and survive in our
latitudes mostly in a state of permanent hibernation. Both seeds and
transplants do extremely well in hydroponics, and it is amazing to watch
them grow in a fertile environment in much the same way as they would
in the tropics. House plants use much less water than vegetables or
flowers, but because of the excellent aeration properties of a hydroponic
medium your plants can never be overwatered. This is the most
common cause of death among potted house plants. Again, keep friends
and enemies apart. Consult a companion planting guide book
specifically for flower and house plants. When seeding flowers, you are
probably better off with varieties that grow up to 9 or 12 inches because
in hydroponics they will grow twice as high. Flowers that grow over 12
inches in soil gardens will be too unwieldy grown hydroponically.
Many rules which apply to vegetables will also apply to houseplants.
Remove the plant from its container and gently wash the soil
from the roots with cold tap water. The cold water tends to anesthetize
the plant against shock. Add sufficient growing medium to the
container so that the plant will sit at the same depth as previously.
Use plain water in the container for 10 to 14 days. This forces
the root system to spread out and develop in its search for nutrient in
its new environment. Begin the nutrient solution at 10 to 14 days, or
sooner if the leaves become pale green or yellow. Mark your calendar
when you begin using nutrient solution and use it for one month.
Switch over to plain water for a month, flushing the planter with
barely lukewarm water to keep it sweet and fresh for your plant. This
removes salt and mineral build-up, which appears as a white crystalline
formation, from the medium. Let it drain and then replace with fresh
water. Do not use water from a water softener as it is too alkaline.
Continue to alternate nutrient solution one month with water the next.
If you are transplanting a flowering plant, it will probably lose all
of its flowers and buds upon transplanting but will in all likelihood still
survive.
In our unthinking acceptance of highly processed convenience foods,
we have almost forgotten those magical plants that have served man'
kind for thousands of years by pleasing the sense of smell, helping the
digestion and lending their special flavours to food. Commercial
chemists are still trying in vain to match these tastes and aromas. The
expensive dried herbs that can be bought at the supermarket in fancy
little bottles are only a pale echo of the real thing. Most of the vitamins,
fragrance and flavour have been lost in processing and exposure to air.
In a hydroponic garden, it is possible to raise all kinds of herbs.
These can be included in a large system that supports other plants, as
long as friends and enemies are kept apart, or you can raise them
separately in a smaller herb garden. Lights aren't always necessary for
indoor growing. A sunny window with a southern or western exposure
should make it possible to grow satisfactory crops. Not only that, but a
small kitchen garden full of colourful and fragrant herbs is a charming
addition to any cooking area. Outdoors, of course, herbs thrive.
The most important herbs for cooking are: basil, chive, chervil,
dill, lovage, marjoram, Oregano, parsley (curly or plain), sage, savory,
tarragon and thyme. There are many others you might want to try, and
for obtaining more exotic seeds, see the Resource List at the end of this
book. Just remember, for seeding indoors and out, don't put more than
four or five different herbs in a single planter or they get too crowded.
Always plant two seeds per location and thin out the losers. Don't throw
them away; save them, stems and all, for soups or salads. When
planning' the layout of your kitchen garden, place the tall herbs in the
rear and the lower ones in the front to make harvesting easier.
Some herbs, tarragon for example, have a very poor germination
rate. You would be wise to plant four or five seeds where you want only
one plant. Other kinds, like parsley, are slow to sprout. For these herbs,
you may want to start up more quickly with transplants or cuttings.
Because of its tall and narrow "leaves," chive can be seeded close
together, almost as you would sow grass seed. Most herbs, such as basil
and sage, germinate very quickly.
The information given below will help you germinate and harvest
your herbs. The growing time to the first cut you make in the Herb
Yields chart includes the germinating time shown in the Planting
Guide. All of these plants can last from four to eight months before they
need replanting. Some can last as long as twelve months, if the plants
and unit are kept clean.
HERB PLANTING GUIDE
Dark Covers Clear Covers Days for Germinating
Anise 7-10
Basil 2-4
Borage 3-5
Camomile 2-4
Chervil 4-7
Chive 7-10
Coriander 5-7
Dill 3-5
Fennel 4-7
Lemon Balm 7-14
Marjoram 3-5
Mint 10-14
Mustard 2-4
Onion 2-5
Oregano 3-5
Parsley 5-7
Rosemary 4-7
Sage 4-7
Savory 6-10
Sorrel 2-5
Tarragon 7-10
Thyme 5-7
Watercress 3-5
HERB YIELDS
Growing Time Yield (ounces)
Variety 1st Cut Replacement 1st Cut Replacement
Basil 9-14 days 4-7 days 9 15
Chervil 12-16 7 5 8
Chive 15-20 7-10 3 5-8
Coriander 15-20 7 5 8
Dill 12-15 5-7 5 8
Marjoram 12-15 5-7 4 5
Mint 24-30 7-10 6 10
Onion (seed) 10-15 7-10 5 7-10
Oregano 13-18 4-7 4 5
Parsley 13-18 7 5 8
Rosemary 15-24 10 6 8
Sage 12-18 6-9 8 12
Savory 14-20 7-10 8 12
Sorrel 14-19 7-10 8 12
Tarragon 20-30 10 5 8
Thyme 18-24 7-10 3 5
Watercress 12-15 6-10 5 8
This information was kindly supplied to me by Applied Hydroponics of Canada, Montreal.
If you've never tried cooking with fresh herbs, aside from parsley
which seems to be about all we use these days, then you are in for a
pleasant surprise. An indication of the startling difference between
fresh and dry herbs can be gotten by doing a small test. Go to your spice
rack and smell the contents of the jar of dried marjoram leaves, then
crush a fresh leaf between your fingers and bring it to your nose. You
should now be completely hooked on growing and using fresh herbs.
Cooking with fresh herbs needn't be confined to gourmet dishes;
everyday meals will benefit greatly from their use, particularly with
bland vegetables like potatoes and lima beans. Recipes will be provided
in the next chapter for both kinds of dishes. To whet your appetite,
though, remember that whatever kind of meal you are serving, hydroponics
will make it possible to have a fresh green salad winter or
summer.
BASIL
Basil has a special affinity for tomatoes. It is the
secret that accounts for many delicious southern
Italian dishes containing tomatoes, such as
spaghetti and ravioli sauces. Northern Italy is famous
for pesto butter, that lovely pasta cream made
with fresh basil. This herb will lend a new and
interesting flavour to practically all foods. It is one of
the few herbs that actually increases in flavour when
cooked. Try sprinkling fresh, chopped basil on a
tomato salad.
CHERVIL
Chervil improves the flavour of any herb with which
it is mixed, making it a constant ingredient in the
fines herbes of French cooking. Chervil's mild flavour
makes generous use necessary. Sprinkle it on peas,
spinach, tomatoes and eggplant before serving. It
tastes best if added to foods that don't need cooking.
Using it in a soup or sauce means it should be added
last and the dish should only be allowed to boil once
more. For special occasions, use two or three good
handfuls of fresh chervil in French chervil soup.
CHIVE
The smallest of the onion tribe, chive has a subtle
flavour. It is one of the best culinary herbs, making
fatty foods more digestible and giving a special piquancy
to almost anything. In melted butter or sour
cream, chive is the finishing touch to mashed,
boiled or baked potatoes. It is excellent when used
on salads, soups, in cottage cheese, devilled eggs or
in the famous Green Sauce that will be given later.
Chive can't be dried. Mind you, dried chive is being
sold, but one taste of each kind will show what I
mean. For breakfast, fold fresh, chopped chive into
scrambled eggs halfway through the proceedings.
DILL
The lacy leaves of dill are delicately aromatic and
when finely chopped yield a very special, sharp and
interesting flavour. There are three main uses for
dill: with fish (particularly in sauces), for flavouring
bland vegetables like peas and potatoes, and in seed
form for pickling cucumbers and cabbage. Try
sprinkling fresh, chopped dill on a cucumber salad.
Dill grows tall and graceful (two to three feet)
and other things can be planted beneath it. However,
don't grow dill next to fennel; they crosspollinate
and produce strange and useless offspring
that are neither dill nor fennel.
LOVAGE
This giant herb has a strong scent reminiscent of
yeast or the famous soup extract, Maggi. It gives
strength to soups, stews, casseroles, salads and
mixed vegetables. This extraordinary herb deserves
a bit of experimenting. Lovage is an important flavouring
for some vegetarians, for it provides the
tastes normally associated with meat or soup bones.
For everyday use, put finely chopped lovage in or on
a soup. The aromatic seeds can also be used.
MARJORAM
Sweet marjoram has a milder and slightly different
flavour than its cousin, wild marjoram (oregano). It
is a meat herb and benefits pork, veal, lamb, poultry,
venison and sausages. Sweet marjoram is good in
such diverse foods as stuffings, omelets, Bloody
Marys and cottage cheese. Put fresh, chopped marjoram
in your next poultry stuffing. ;
OREGANO
I his herb is a favourite in Italian, Spanish and
Mexican dishes. Its hot flavour is best in tomato
dishes, spaghetti, pizza, hamburgers, meat loaf,
.sauces, stews and stuffings. Tomato or bean soup is
much improved by the addition of a small quantity
of Oregano. Oregano in cooking is as old as the
Greek hills where it originated, and it has both
stimulating and medicinal properties. For a flavourful
dish, cook chopped, fresh Oregano leaves in a
spaghetti sauce.
To make the plant spread, keep snipping the
buds of the top leaf growth.
PARSLEY
Parsley underlines the taste of food. It has a remarkable
gift for overcoming strong odours on the breath,
even the powerful garlic is largely neutralized by it.
In large amounts, it is a good natural tranquilizer.
The finely chopped leaves are added twice in cooking;
at the beginning when other flavours are
brought out, and again shortly before serving. For
everyday use, sprinkle chopped parsley on buttered,
boiled new potatoes.
Parsley is a carefree crop, but very slow to
germinate. An old tale claims that the seeds must go
to the devil and back nine times before sprouting, so
don't give up.
SAGE
The beautiful gray-green leaves of this wisest of all
the mints is a must in every kitchen. The ancients
thought it prolonged life, the Chinese love it as a tea
for medicinal purposes and the modern family uses
this incredibly fragrant herb on a modest scale in
cheese dishes and sausages. With pork and fatty
meats, sage is almost indispensable because it aids in
digestion. Who would ever think of stuffing the
Christmas turkey without using it? For everyday use,
any stuffing will benefit from sage.
SAVORY
The traditional use of savory in bean dishes had its
origin in making them easier to digest. Savory also
gives its distinct and attractive flavour to stuffings,
meat pies and sausages. Its fresh tops can be cooked
with peas, lentils and beans of all kinds. Every kind
of uncooked salad benefits from savory. A few leaves
added to the water when cooking Brussels sprouts or
cabbage improve their flavour and reduce cooking
odour. For everyday use, cook fresh, chopped savery
with lentils or broad beans.
TARRAGON
Tarragon is the king of all culinary herbs and has had
a most distinguished career, particularly in French
cuisine. It is used freely, chopped in salad dressings,
sprinkled over salads and main dishes such as steak
or fish, and on all vegetables. Melted butter with
chopped tarragon or tarragon sauces are excellent
company for delicate vegetables such as mushrooms,
eggplant or asparagus. Try tarragon in fish and poultry
stuffings and in marinades. For everyday use, put
fresh, chopped tarragon in a sour cream salad
dressing.
The best tarragon is the French or True tarragon.
It can only be raised by propagation. The
Russian tarragon that is found in seed packages is a
poor second to the French variety.
THYME
You would almost think thyme was the twin sister of
sage, since they go so well together. The beautiful,
broad, dark green leaves of the English variety and
the narrow gray-green leaves of the French type are
the most flavourful and popular of all thymes. In
early Greek and Roman days it was used on the body
as an antiseptic. Today, however, it is without equal
as an additive for soups, sauces and stuffing. Few
serious cooks would think of preparing pork, lamb or
chowder without a hint of thyme. Try some fresh,
I hopped thyme on onion soup.
Most flowering types of vegetables require some kind of pollination by
you when they are grown indoors, unless you plan to keep bees or other
insects in your home. Often, pollination can be carried out by a gentle
breeze or a simple shake of the stem. Beans, eggplants, peas, peppers
and tomatoes are all capable of pollinating themselves in this manner,
because the flowers contain both male and female parts (called hermaphroditic).
A more certain method is to apply a small hand vibrator or
an electric toothbrush to the stem. If you don't see pollen falling from
the flower in a little cloud of dust, you could try using a small, inexpensive
artist's brush. A Q-tip is often suggested, but I prefer the more
gentle brush. In either case, gently swab the base of the staminal cone
(see Figure 21) and you have accomplished your task. If you use a
vibrator, do not vibrate too close to the flower or you could break the
stem, which is very delicate at this stage of growth. Properly pollinated,
you should see a little shower of pollen fall from the flower when it is
vibrated.
Special attention must be given to vine-type vegetables such as
cucumber, zucchini and cantaloupe, because these plants have both
male and female flowers. Cross-pollination is necessary with these
plants. The male and female flowers are easy to identify. The male
flower is supported from its branch by a tiny, ordinary straight stem. The
female flower, on the other hand, is supported by a stem shaped like the
fruit that will eventually grow. In fact, this actually is the fruit or
vegetable that will form once cross-pollination is carried out. To crosspollinate,
use your small brush again. Disturb the pollen in the male
flower, carry it over to the female flower and disturb the pollen again.
It is good practice to repeat pollination and cross-pollination
procedures for about three days to make sure you have been successful.
Although wind and insects usually do the job outside, it is worthwhile
to give nature a helping hand by using the same methods. One caution
should be mentioned. Too high or too low a humidity can make it
difficult to fertilize your flowers and can cause them to wither and die.
Nevertheless, flowers do like rather high humidity for pollination and it
seems that a good time for this is between about 10 AM and 2 PM. On
the days you must pollinate, if the humidity level is considerably lower
than desired, try misting the plants two or three times from early
morning until noon. This will increase the humidity.
These simple steps are all there is to practical pollination and
cross-pollination. Of course, on a more scientific level this can be a
complex art, but here I am primarily concerned with effective procedures
that will produce results. The bibliography lists several books and
magazines where you can find a great deal more information on this
subject.*
Figure 20. Pollinating a cucumber plant. Male flower on the left and
female on the right.
Few books on hydroponics deal with the idea of moving a soilless garden
outside. To my way of thinking, though, the whole point of hydroponics
is to get the best possible year-round results. There is a great
temptation for the home grower to lean back and say, "Outdoor gardening?
Who needs it? I'm going to keep my garden in the basement all
year. No wind, no bugs, no problems." It really isn't necessary to move
your garden outdoors in summer, but if you don't, you'll be missing the
opportunity to grow plants of tremendous proportions and yield. It is
possible, for example, to root ten to twelve staking tomato vines in a
single sixteen by twenty-four inch planter outdoors, spread them on a
six foot wide trellis and let them grow to heights of seven to nine feet.
There is ample nutrient in the planter for all and ample light from the
sun. This is how to get yields often to twenty pounds per plant from
each crop, much higher than indoors. If you are truly interested in
results, it seems foolish to me not to go outdoors in summer.
Moving your garden outdoors takes planning, however, because
you have to make your unit portable, and you have to know when the
first frost-free day in your area is likely to be. When building or buying a
hydroponic garden, it is a good idea to be on the lookout for such things
as tea caddies with wheels or a small wheelbarrow. These can make
transportation much easier.
The first frost-free day is a red letter one for soil gardeners. It's the
date when all chance of (overnight) ground frost has passed. In the
northern United States and most of Canada's southern belt, this is May
24th. The local Agricultural Office publishes this information for
specific geographical areas. With a portable hydroponic unit, your
outdoor growing season can start three to four weeks earlier than this
date, because you have no ground frost to worry about. On a protected
porch or balcony, you can take advantage of the heat given off by the
building. However, if you simply take your plants outside in April or
May and leave them there, you will probably kill them. Plants need to
be "hardened off." That is, they have to become gradually accustomed
to the cooler temperatures and higher light levels of an outdoor environment.
This is done by moving them out for an hour or two during the
warmest part of the day and increasing the time an hour or two every few
days until they are able to withstand twenty-four hours a day outside.
The entire hardening off process should take about a week or two.
For the first, early month of outdoor hydroponic gardening, it is
still a good idea to listen closely to weather reports. When a freak frost is
announced, cover your plants and planters with paper or plastic overnight.
When the overnight low is announced as 32°F (0°C), it will still
be about 37°F (+3°C) in your protected location. A low of 26°F
(— 3°C) means it's a good idea to move your plants back indoors for the
night. In any case, be sure to set your plants in a protected spot with a
southern or western exposure if possible.
Two months before the first frost-free day plant your seeds indoors
under lights. Big plants are particularly suited for outdoor hydroponics,
especially types that grow too tall or range too far for efficient indoor
lighting. Staking tomatoes, pole beans, green peppers and cucumbers
all do exceptionally well. If you are buying seedlings from a commercial
grower rather than raising your own, select only the best. They should
be dark green, medium tall and heavy stemmed. (Don't forget to
remove all of the soil from the roots of any plants you purchase.) Leggy
plants, either bought or raised, should be planted as deeply as possible,
up to the first or second set of true leaves. Newly planted seedlings
should be protected from direct sunlight for the first few days, so they
don't get burned. Plant sunburn appears as whitish, leached-out leaves.
If you time the seeding and moving of your unit correctly you
should have red, ripe tomatoes in June, long before soil gardeners, and
lettuce, beans and peas even earlier. If you don't want to cut it quite
that fine, allow an extra week or two after the first frost-free day.
What to Plant Outdoors
Tomatoes are the prime choice for outdoor hydroponics. They recapture
the flavour long gone from supermarket produce, and the theoretical
maximum yield is very high, twenty pounds per vine. In your first
season, though, you're doing fine if you get about half that much. A fast
growing, medium-sized staking variety produces more and better quality
fruit than the larger hybrids. Tomatoes are grown quite close together in
hydroponics, four to six inches. A good arrangement in a sixteen by
twenty-four inch unit would be to set a row of five plants along the rear
edge and fan them out against a wall on strings or trellises.
Staking tomatoes have to be pruned. This makes it easier to tie the
vines and keep the plants in manageable shape. There are three ways of
pruning: single-stem, double-stem or multiple-stem. Double- or
multiple-stem pruning is the best in my experience. Let the first two or
three suckers grow and pinch off only those above them. Permit the
lower suckers to develop into a second, third or even fourth stem. All
subsequent suckers should be removed from these stems. When pruning,
especially in warm weather, my suggestion is to remove a branch
from a plant each day or two. Excessive pruning at one time could cause
Figure 22. Prune tomatoes by pinching off the suckers that appear in the
crooks between branches and the main stem of the plant.
shock. After the first fruit-set, remove the lower branches one or two at
a time. After the next fruit-set, remove the branches between the first
and second fruit-set the same way. Use pruning scissors if possible. It is
also a good idea to do this indoors with your bush tomatoes. It keeps the
energy going to the fruit rather than to the lower leaves, which by this
time serve no useful function.
Intercropping and outcropping were described in Chapter 7, and
the outdoor season is the time to take full advantage of your hydroponic
growing area. In the planter where you have placed your five tomato
vines, don't forget to plant pole beans in a corner. They will frame your
garden with cheerful foliage while taking up little room in your planter.
The remainder of the space is still available for a wide range of herbs and
flowers. Be sure to pay attention to the rules for Companion Planting
given in Chapter 7. In colder, more northern regions, try to get a good
head start on the painfully short growing season. Another good
arrangement in your outdoor unit is about nine tomato vines around
the perimeter of a 16" X 24" tank. Between each tomato seed, place
a cucumber seed. You can now have the tomatoes growing up and the
cucumbers growing over the side. Once you have obtained the first
tomato fruit set you can start removing the lower stems and as soon as
there is sufficient light penetration to the growing surface, you can
also intercrop with leaf lettuce. Quite a crop for two and one-half
square feet!
Make sure you keep your hydroponic system on a table or stand
when growing outdoors. If you don't, all kinds of creepy crawlies will
invade your plants.
Towards the end of autumn, it's time to move your garden back
indoors. Because every latitude and location is different, find out from
the local Agricultural Department when the first frost is expected. You
will still have an extra month for growing at the end of the season over
your dirt gardening friends, because of the protection and heat loss from
your building and because your planters do not sit in or on the ground.
Before you move your garden indoors (and whenever you harvest a
complete plant) remove the root stock from the growing medium. Also,
check your plants and planters carefully to make sure that any insect
infestations aren't taken indoors. Otherwise, there are no special instructions
for taking your garden back inside. The plants you wish to
keep will survive quite well, and there is little danger of temperature or
light shock.
If you do find that insects are present, however, you must either
terminate your plants, clean out your system and sterilize the growing
medium, or spend a couple of weeks making sure you have eliminated
all infestation, broken the egg hatching cycle and destroyed any eggs
lying dormant in your gravel. Only after this is done is it safe to bring
your units indoors. To sterilize the growing medium, place it into a foil
roasting pan. Bury a potato in the centre of each pan. Set the pans in
the oven at 450°F (232°C), and when the potato is done, your growing
medium will be sterilized. The same should be done with the drainage
medium, if you are using one , or you may wish to replace it completely.
This would be a good time to add dolmitic lime (see Chapter 4), if you
have found it necessary in the past.
Reminders for Outdoor Hydroponics
1. Move your garden outside gradually.
2. Early in the season check your newspaper for frost warnings and either
cover your plants or move them indoors for the night.
3. Start your seedlings indoors under lights two months before you begin
your move.
4. For the first few days, protect your seedlings from direct sunlight.
5. Take advantage of building heat loss and protection and put your
plants against a wall. A south or west exposure is best.
6. Tie tall and climbing plants to stakes, strings or trellises.
7. Keep any air pumps out of the rain by simply using a longer air hose than
you would indoors.
8. Before moving back indoors, check for insects.
I am firmly convinced that placing a chair beside your system every so
often and sitting there to get the feel of your plants is advantageous.
Plants give off many visual messages. It is up to you to learn how to
interpret those messages. You can do it by studying the appearance of
your plants and becoming totally familiar with each kind. When left to
itself, nature does a haphazard growing job. It is essential that you do
not leave everything up to nature after you have seeded your soilless
garden. Ten or fifteen minutes care a day, or at worst an hour a week,
will pay huge dividends in your crops.
Cleaning Your System
Cleanliness is a must around, as well as in the system. Remove dead
leaves before they rot, for this is an ideal place for fungus infection.
Keep a close watch for red spider and white fly infestations. They are the
two greatest insect problems in hydroponics. Insecticides will be discussed
in detail later in the next chapter, but if you do use one, make sure it
isn't the same brand all the time. Insects build up a resistance to one
kind of insecticide very quickly. Also, try a little preventative spraying.
Once a year, or after every crop, clean out your system and sterilize
the growing medium. This can be done by picking out the worst of the
bits and pieces of r{X)ts and then placing the medium in the oven for
about an hour at 450'500°F (232-260°C). Your system should be
flushed every thirty days to remove accumulated mineral hardness left
by water additions. Accumulated minerals and salts will slow down your
plants' growth. Flushing is done with plain water. If your system has
drain holes, plug them temporarily and fill the planter to the brim.
Don't worry about the plants. Let the water stand for about an hour and
then drain away. If you are flushing the system because of a nutrient
oversupply, operate the planter on plain water for a week and only then
begin a nutrient solution again. Otherwise, you should return to a
nutrient solution right away.
Keeping a Log
Although this book is directed at the novice, and scientific details have
been kept at minimum, one scientific procedure is worthwhile. Keep a
log of everything you do from day to day for each planter you have.
Record the pH when checked, list the nutrient solution added, the
amount of light, when seeded, when transplanted, first fruit, first
harvest and the amount of harvest. Anything that can add to your
knowledge later is worth putting into your log. This is especially true
when you encounter problems along the way. Your log will provide
background information that is useful in finding solutions. At the front
of your log write up the check list that follows:
THE HYDROPONIC SYSTEM
1. Is there excessive water in the aggregate?
2. Is the aggregate too dry?
3. Is the system being drained too rapidly, too slowly?
4. Are pumping periods frequent and long enough?
5. Is the nutrient reservoir too low to pump?
WATER
1. What is the analysis of the water supply?
2. What is the pH level of the water; of the water and aggregate; of
the water, aggregate and nutrient combined?
CLIMATE
1. Are the plants receiving sufficient light?
2. Are the plants receiving too much light?
3. Is there sufficient ventilation?
4. Is there a definite temperature difference between day and
night?
5. Are the plants in a draft?
6. Is the air too dry or too humid?
7. Is the air clean and unpolluted by such things as a forced air
heating system?
8. Is the area sterile or relatively clean?
It may even be a good idea to record the kinds of plants you have grown
and the types of seeds you have used. (See sample log, page 131)
Seeds
When considering which vegetable seeds to plant, for example, some
attention should be given to hybrids. These seeds have been carefully
controlled in cross-pollination to create a type that fills a particular void
or ensures variety. In every instance of hybrid seeds, an explanation is
given on the package or in a seed catalogue detailing why the hybrid was
developed. Selection of seeds depends on the limits of your system and
your requirements. Your requirements might be any of a dozen or so:
self-pollinating, bush midget, staking, early fruiting and so on. In many
instances, you will discover that, although a particular type of seed was
not developed specifically for hydroponics, its qualities are such that it
would appear to have been.
Growing midget seed varieties in particular can be an exciting and
fun-filled part of hydroponic growing. Many of these are well suited to
being grown indoors. There are three basic types: a small plant that
produces normal fruit, a standard-sized plant that produces small fruit,
and a small plant that produces small fruit.
Seed companies change the seeds they stock in retail outlets once a
year, but many seeds are good for a long time. If you have part of a
package left over from the previous year, it may not be necessary to
throw it away and purchase a new one. Store leftover seeds in a dry,
sealed container. To ensure that they stay dry you might want to place
a dessicant like silica or dried milk powder in the same container. The
germination rate in hydroponics is very high, and you will usually lose
only a few days checking out leftover seeds. The following list will give
you some idea of how long commonly used seeds last:
Asparagus 3 years
Bean 3 years
Beet 4 years
Cabbage 4 years
Cantaloupe 5 years
Carrot 3 years
Cauliflower 4 years
Cucumber 4 years
Eggplant 4 years
Lettuce 5 years
Onion 2 years
Pea 3 years
Pepper 2 years
Radish 4 years
Spinach 3 years
Tomato 3 years
Pruning
When growing indoors, do not allow the top of the plant to get too far
away from the root system. Almost every plant will grow larger in
hydroponics than in soil, because the plants are getting a full measure of
nutrients, air and water. Bush or Tiny Tim tomatoes are the only kinds
you should grow indoors, and you should be sure to pinch off the tops
when the plants reach a height of about 2-1/2 feet. Cucumbers, on the
other hand, should be pinched off after seven sets of leaves. Pinching off
in this way makes the plants more manageable under your lights and
keeps the energy requirements close to the root system.
It has been repeated several times in this book that giving specific
instructions or setting out rules is often difficult because of wide variations
in such things as water quality, type of system, nutrient ingredients
and environmental factors. The same is certainly true when we
come to the subject of trouble shooting. What follows is an attempt to
identify and deal with common problems encountered in home hydroponics.
The fact that hydroponics depends to a large extent on grower
experimentation can't be stressed often enough. This does not mean
that the remedies given here don't work; they do, but because of
variable factors you may encounter problems that are not covered in
this or any other book, and it will be up to you to employ the knowledge
you have gained to surmount them.
BLOSSOM DROP
Blossom drop can be an indirect result of transpiration stress where the
plant is simply not able to supply enough energy to all its areas. Such
problems will usually begin to show with the third set of blossoms,
although if conditions are extreme it can occur with the first set.
Sometimes, this malady can be corrected to some degree by giving the
plant more phosphorus. Failure to achieve a satisfactory temperature
differential between day and night will also cause blossom drop.
BLOSSOM SET
Indoor growing often creates problems with the blossoms on your
vegetables. Nutrient, temperature, light and humidity all play a part.
Nutrients were discussed in depth in Chapter 3. There must be a
consistent temperature variance between day and night. If anything,
vegetables like it cooler rather than warmer. Be sure to take advantage
of all available indoor light and windows as well as using your growing
lights. You may wish to add one to three incandescent bulbs to your
lighting system, but be careful not to set them too close to the plants or
you'll cook the blossoms. The effects of humidity on pollination have
already been discussed. These problem areas should be carefully
examined to prevent the flowers from dying and falling off before full
cycle. Remember, hydroponics indoors is not natural. You are trying to
recreate an outdoor environment, and you have to work at it.
BLACK SPOTS OR BLOSSOM END ROT ON
TOMATOES
Although this is a somewhat involved topic, the basic reasons for black
spots forming on the blossom side of your tomatoes are a transpiration
stress on the vine or a calcium deficiency. Sometimes the two appear to
be interdependent and sometimes they do not. The truth is that both
circumstances are possible. When the deformity appears in the very
small fruit, the problem could be mainly a calcium deficiency. On the
other hand, when the rot attacks the older, larger fruit, the problem is
more likely to be a lack of moisture.
What is happening here is that hydroponic plants usually grow
more quickly and develop a smaller root system than those grown in
soil. As the plant is growing, it uses a substance called calcium pectate
which it manufactures to cement its cells together. If the plant is not
getting enough calcium, the tomato will have dry cells and a black spot
will form. The stress problem occurs because of the speed at which the
plant grows plus a little outside help, such as extremely high temperatures
or poor air circulation. This puts pressure on the root system to
take in more water, which, because of its relatively small size, it is
unable to do. The basic shortage at the time is calcium and/or water,
but if you add more calcium to your nutrient, you will possibly upset its
balance and cause other, indirect problems. Instead, you might try
adding a little dolmitic lime. Besides, when you see the black spots
forming it is already too late. The stress probably occurred about two
weeks earlier. One of the symptoms is wilting of most of the leaves.
There is no cure for blossom end rot, only prevention. If you
suspect a calcium deficiency, use a foliar spray. In hot weather, pour
fresh water over your growing medium to saturate the roots and try to
reduce extremely high temperatures. Increase air circulation.
BOLTING OF LETTUCE
Lettuce is a cool weather crop and will bolt if it is too warm or if it
doesn't get enough light from germination to partial maturity. Give it
all the light you can in the early stages. Grown outdoors, lettuce should
be kept in a cool, shady place after partial maturity. It doesn't need full
sunlight.
BOLTING OF RADISHES
Like lettuce, radishes need a lot of light at the start, and your luck will
be better outdoors than indoors. However, this is no reason not to try it
inside. I would suggest that when growing radishes you devote a whole
planter to them, or at least a single planter for root vegetables, and use
only water for the first three weeks. Until the seedlings are well developed,
use only vermiculite and then put one-half inch of aggregate
on the top to cut down on algae build-up.
DAMPING OFF
This disease is also called root rot, although damping off applies more to
seeds and root rot to plants. This is a fungus disease caused by a variety
of fungi. It strikes seeds, which will turn mildewy and fail to grow. This
condition is probably due to the fact that the hydroponic watering
system being used is excessive at a particular time for a particular variety
of seed. Your planter could also be in a location that keeps it too damp,
dark and cool. In plants, the roots turn brown and rot. One of the
answers is an all-purpose fungicide. Be sure to follow the directions on
the container.
DROOPING LEAVES
Check to see that your plants are getting enough water. Make sure that
rhe pump of your automatic system is functioning properly. If these two
things are in good order it is possible that your nutrient concentration is
too high; the solution is too salty and your plants can't use it. Flush the
system and run it on plain water for a week, then begin with the
nutrient again. Keep in mind that the lack of water may have to do with
transpiration problems caused by excessive temperatures in an area with
poor air circulation. See Black Spots and Tomato Leaf Curl. Drooping
leaves and leaf curl look alike to the novice.
INSECTS
Just about the only insects you'll have to contend with are red spider,
aphids and white fly. Two good commercial insecticides are Diazinone
and Malathion. House and Garden Raid is also good. They are safe to use
and break down into harmless components within several days. For this
reason, always mix a fresh batch and repeat the application every few
days until the pests are gone. Some insecticides are dangerous to the
skin, so follow directions carefully.
Try not to use insecticide on the edible parts of your plants. After
using an insecticide, harvest no earlier than a week after the last
application, and wash your crops well. Alternate your insecticides,
since insects develop immunities rapidly. If you have soil-growing
house plants within range of your planter that are infected with red
spider, you will often find a transference to celery and cucumbers. Try to
keep soil house plants separate from your hydroponic area.
The best cure is prevention. Remove all dead leaves from your
plants and check those you purchase carefully. Keep your units clean.
Some insects, of course, are your plants' best friends. Bees and
wasps pollinate the blossoms of your flowering vegetables, while
ladybugs eat the eggs of insect pests. Other critters, however, are after
the same thing you are ~ the crop.
No one really likes using insecticides. For those people who are
concerned about the contents of many commercial kinds, one of the
new organic insecticides might be preferable. These are powders based
on diatomiseous earth that pierce and dehydrate the insect. They are
harmless to man, animals and plants, and merit experimentation. The
only drawback is the sometimes unsightly white powder all over the
leaves. Organic solutions are also available. Here are two organic bug
sprays you can make yourself. For egg-laying insects, you must break
the egg cycle, usually 12 to 14 days.
All'Purpose Organic Spray
Chop three ounces of garlic cloves in a grinder or blender and soak for
twenty-four hours in two tablespoons of mineral oil. Dissolve one-half
ounce of oil-based soap in one pint of water and add to the garlic
mixture. Stir well, strain and use in your hand sprayer.
Organic Hot Spray
Into a grinder or blender put one whole clove of garlic with skin, three
large onions, plus one hot pepper, or two tablespoons of Tabasco sauce,
or a level tablespoon of cayenne pepper. Barely cover the mixture with
water and let it stand overnight. Next day mash it through a sieve.
Then strain it through a paper towel or a Melitta coffee filter into a one
gallon jug. Keep adding water over the residue in your towel or filter
until the jug is full. Use in your hand sprayer.
LIMP LETTUCE
When they are grown in the sun, lettuce leaves are sometimes too limp
to serve. They will crisp up nicely for your salad if you wash them in cold
water, shake gently and put them in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for
an hour before using.
MISSHAPEN OR DEFORMED TOMATOES
Two of the more common deformities are rough skins and misshapen
fruit with skin that looks like a peeled orange. Both are usually caused
by temperature factors. Failure to have a satisfactory day-night temperature
variance can cause roughened fruit. Too low a night temperature
and too low a day temperature can cause the same problem. There can
be other reasons, but these are the most common for the home grower.
The peeled orange syndrome is more likely to be caused by severe
temperature fluctuations during a brief interval at blossom set. For
information dealing strictly with tomatoes, see the Bibliography.
MIXING MEDIA
For those growers using both a growing and a drainage medium, it will
soon become apparent that as you move plants in and out of your garden
the two media get mixed up. There is no harm in this at all.
NUTRIENT FOR OUTDOORS
When growing outdoors, it sometimes happens that your plants will
need less nutrient than they would indoors. Overfeeding causes drooping
leaves and tip burn, and it will slow plant growth much more than
underfeeding. The answer is to flush and start over again with a new
nutrient solution.
OVERFEEDING
The most common mistake made by novices is that they may feel that
more is better. The result is overfeeding. This burns the plants (see
paragraph above). It is much safer to run the nutrient solution on the
lean side. If the plants get too little nutrient, you will know they need
more because the veins of their leaves will turn yellow or pale. Just add a
pinch of nutrient and they'll turn green again almost overnight.
PATCHY GROWTH
Better growth in one area of a planter than another indicates that the
nutrient solution is unevenly distributed. Simply pour your nutrient
solution over the aggregate by hand. If this doesn't work, check your
pump and lines.
RAIN OVERFLOW
In outdoor growing, a heavy rainfall may fill your planters to the brim.
You should syphon off the excess water or have a drainage hole at the
desired maximum level. Try to estimate the amount of water you have
drained and make careful calculations of the correct amount of nutrient
to add. A light rainfall will likely have an insignificant effect on the
nutrient solution, so don't tamper with it.
SALT A N D MINERAL BUILD-UP
White crystals forming on your growing medium indicate that flushing
is necessary.
SPINDLY GROWTH
This condition is caused by insufficient light.
SUNBURN
White, bleached-looking areas appear on the leaves when planters are
moved too quickly outdoors into bright sunlight. Keep the plants
shaded for a few days or make the transition gradually to allow plant
cells time to adapt to high light levels.
TIP BURN
The tips or margins of the leaves turn brown. The cause is overfeeding.
Flush the system and start over.
TOMATO LEAF CURL
This problem is probably caused by excessive pruning in hot weather, or
by an oppressively high indoor temperature. The latter could be a
warning to look out for future blossom end rot. Leaf curl could also be an
infection, but this is unlikely in hydroponics, because the fungi causing
such infections live in soil. See Drooping Leaves.
WATER STRESS
See Black Spots.
WILTING
Periodic wilting of leaves is caused by a lack of moisture. This usually
happens during the hottest part of the day. Immediately pour water over
the surface of the aggregate. The best remedy is prevention, so you
should probably do this every day at the hottest time.
YELLOW LEAVES
When a vegetable is nearing the end of its fruitful life, its older leaves
will usually turn yellow and die. This is normal. In most other cases,
yellowing older leaves means that the plants are getting too much
water. Because of the porous aggregate, this is a rare occurrence in
hydroponics. But if it does happen, reduce the water supply. The
reduction method will depend on the type of system you have. For
instance, you might keep your planter half full for awhile, shut your
pump off from 11:00 PM to 7:00 AM for a continuous flow system, or
eliminate a pumping period for a flood type.
When younger leaves yellow or when they turn a distinctly lighter
green than older leaves, try adding a pinch of nutrient. Wait a few days
and they'll turn green again. If not, add a little more.

 

[blynx]

This is available online in pdf format with all the illustrations (also in text with no pics)

http://www.scribd.com/doc/11052809/Hydroponics-for-the-Home-Gardener

http://www.scribd.com/doc/6476954/Hydroponics-for-the-Home-Gardener

 

[BevoLabs]

I bet not 1 single person read 1/2 of this... Why would you copy a book and randomly post it online?

I enjoy how OP starts out with:
"BUILDING YOUR OWN SYSTEM
The following illustrations are of some fairly simple hydroponic"

And does not include a single picture in the thread! lol. Let me give you 40 pages of text, on a very technical subject, and not include any pictures!

Also, I would say that ICMag should think twice about allowing members to blatantly post copyrighted material, that is obviously illegal acquired.

Not saying I dont agree with that you do, just saying you are dumb for the ways of going about it! Thanks for sharing either way!

 

[copperheadroad]

ha ha yea thanks was a nice thought but wow man by the time i read all that i could have made the hydro system, hell could a came up with the design myself and went got all stuff needed and had it built. lil bit silly but thanks, maybe a job as a court reporter or something may be right for you, and your apparent love of typing

 

[Schizophrenic]

Wall of text crits you for 1,274,203.

You have died.

 

[Hydro-Soil]

Wall of text crits you for 1,274,203.

You have died.

Even with my +48 Speed reading ability I was still 500,000HP short of surviving this.
How do you spell that sound people make when they get turned into jello in a picosecond??

 

[Schizophrenic]

-splat-

 

[Hydro-Soil]

-splat-

ROTFLMAO! I'll take it!

Moses244: I really do appreciate all this info but it's going to take quite a while to go through it. Thank you!