G
Guest
Can someone gimme some ideas how I can turn this thing into a bubble cloner...it's about 7-8" around, it's square...thanks in advance guys...
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purpleplayer007
Active member
Yea I've been lookin inna making one too. I'll check back here to see if anyone posts some steps
G
Guest
lol im sure you will find a way mate....
i did
i did
hell thats a easy one all ya needs is some 1/2 rubber hose like fule line hose cutt it about an inche long and slit it all the way down on one side this wil hold the steam now drill a buch of holes in the top and insert the rubber hoses drill a hole in the side of the contaner stick in a 1/4 air hose and a air stone fill with water plug in to air pump and waite about 7 to 10 days for roots to show. one i use is a 44 oz buger king cup with 2 1/2 rubber hoses and a air stone for my clones works great
G
Guest
K1lla
That isn't too large of a cloner, but it will do just fine for a few sites. First step is to block out the light, foil tape works well for this. Next you will want to get her bubblin! An easy way to do this is get some air tubing, usually 1/4 inch thick (can be found at hardware store) and fasten it to the bottom of the container. You will want to pre-drill holes before hand tho (then connect with a T) This will be a makeshift airstone....if you want you could put some airstones in there, but the tubing works better imo. To fasten it, you can use clips of some sort....found some phone cord clips made by 3m that work wonders. Last make your site's, you can save money and use the air tubing left over from the airline at the bottom. Just cut small segements, then cut into them open so it isnt a tube anymore. Now you can roll it up to fit snug in your holes, yet still have room for the stem.
Bam! your done.....after gathering supplies maybe 20 min?
~edit Looks like someone beat me to the punch! Imma go look for some pics so you can get a visual about my non-airstone airline =)
That isn't too large of a cloner, but it will do just fine for a few sites. First step is to block out the light, foil tape works well for this. Next you will want to get her bubblin! An easy way to do this is get some air tubing, usually 1/4 inch thick (can be found at hardware store) and fasten it to the bottom of the container. You will want to pre-drill holes before hand tho (then connect with a T) This will be a makeshift airstone....if you want you could put some airstones in there, but the tubing works better imo. To fasten it, you can use clips of some sort....found some phone cord clips made by 3m that work wonders. Last make your site's, you can save money and use the air tubing left over from the airline at the bottom. Just cut small segements, then cut into them open so it isnt a tube anymore. Now you can roll it up to fit snug in your holes, yet still have room for the stem.
Bam! your done.....after gathering supplies maybe 20 min?
~edit Looks like someone beat me to the punch! Imma go look for some pics so you can get a visual about my non-airstone airline =)
Last edited:
how i did mine per the og cheapo faq
how i did mine per the og cheapo faq
ok here's the parts list
bubble wands http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT<>prd_id=845524441779312
air pump i think the recommendation was atleast a 20 gallon. i'm using a 30 gallon.
http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT<>prd_id=845524441809767
aquarium heater. i tried it without this and trust me you need it
http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT<>prd_id=845524441811743
1/4" aquarium or irigation tubing.
1/2" aquarium tubing.
1/4" tubing couplers. (not 100% required)
1/4" T connector for the tubing (only if your air pump has 1 outlet)
safe waterproof glue or silicon sealant
fish tank/terarium thermometer (litle black strip thermometer)
way to drill/cut 1/4" and 1/2" holes in the tub
stoppers that will clog a 1/2" hole
plastidip. its a paint like plastic coating you can find at home depot in the paint section.
i took a rubbermaid tub and did 2 coats of plastidip on both the inside and outside to lightproof it. then after that dried i took the 2 bubble wands and glued the suction cups to the bottom of the tub to hold them down. same with the aquarium heater.
To get the air to the bubble wands i drilled 2 x 1/4" holes in the side of the tub above the water line (just barely made it D'oh) and if you bought the 1/4" couplers insert them in and glue them in. If not feed your 1/4" tubing through and connect them to the bubble wands. and seal any gaps. I still need to come up with a good way to work the aquarium heater through without cutting the plug if i can. i just have it running over the top of the tub with the lid sitting on it.
for the lid i cut 1/2" holes in the top in a grid. then i do the 2 coats of plastidip on both sides. i cleaned out lowes on stoppers of the right size last time and they didn't have enough.
set your aquarium heater to keep the temps about 75-80.
fill your tub to where you are getting a light spray on the bottom of the lid
attach the thermometer to the outside of the tub below the water line.
the 1/2" aquarium tubing is used for holding the clones in the holes in the lid. cut a short section about 1/4 - 1/2" long of the tubing and then make a slit in it so you'll be able to get your rooted clone out of the collar.
how i did mine per the og cheapo faq
ok here's the parts list
bubble wands http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT<>prd_id=845524441779312
air pump i think the recommendation was atleast a 20 gallon. i'm using a 30 gallon.
http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT<>prd_id=845524441809767
aquarium heater. i tried it without this and trust me you need it
http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT<>prd_id=845524441811743
1/4" aquarium or irigation tubing.
1/2" aquarium tubing.
1/4" tubing couplers. (not 100% required)
1/4" T connector for the tubing (only if your air pump has 1 outlet)
safe waterproof glue or silicon sealant
fish tank/terarium thermometer (litle black strip thermometer)
way to drill/cut 1/4" and 1/2" holes in the tub
stoppers that will clog a 1/2" hole
plastidip. its a paint like plastic coating you can find at home depot in the paint section.
i took a rubbermaid tub and did 2 coats of plastidip on both the inside and outside to lightproof it. then after that dried i took the 2 bubble wands and glued the suction cups to the bottom of the tub to hold them down. same with the aquarium heater.
To get the air to the bubble wands i drilled 2 x 1/4" holes in the side of the tub above the water line (just barely made it D'oh) and if you bought the 1/4" couplers insert them in and glue them in. If not feed your 1/4" tubing through and connect them to the bubble wands. and seal any gaps. I still need to come up with a good way to work the aquarium heater through without cutting the plug if i can. i just have it running over the top of the tub with the lid sitting on it.
for the lid i cut 1/2" holes in the top in a grid. then i do the 2 coats of plastidip on both sides. i cleaned out lowes on stoppers of the right size last time and they didn't have enough.
set your aquarium heater to keep the temps about 75-80.
fill your tub to where you are getting a light spray on the bottom of the lid
attach the thermometer to the outside of the tub below the water line.
the 1/2" aquarium tubing is used for holding the clones in the holes in the lid. cut a short section about 1/4 - 1/2" long of the tubing and then make a slit in it so you'll be able to get your rooted clone out of the collar.
well i don't think i did a good enough job explaining it so i went and snagged the original growfaq from og outta the google cache. 10k did a much better job explaining this than i did. just wish i could get the pics
Building a Cheapo-Aero cloning tub
Added by: 10k Last edited by: 10k Viewed: 905 times Rated by 49 users: 9.56/10
The cheapo-Aero cloner is a very simple device to build.
It will perform just as well as expensive aero cloners costing hundreds of dollars. It operates on the same principle as every other aero cloner on the market, which is that the stems of the cuttings are suspended in an air space being misted by a fine spray of tiny flying water droplets.
Some aero cloner variations...
Some aero cloners work by way of the water being sprayed thru fine mist sprayheads by a water pump, others like the Rainforest cloner work by a spinning rotor which flings small water specs at the stems. There are even cloners on the market which use ultrasonic humidifier fog being pumped thru a chamber holding the stems.
The cheapo-aero works on the "bubbling bucket" principle, where tiny water droplets are created by the action of the air bubbles bursting at the water surface, sending a mist of water flying thru the open air space above the waterline where the stems are located.
I named it "Cheapo-Aero" because it is a cheap and simple alternative to the more complicated water pumped thru sprayers type aero cloner tubs. Ok, lets do it...
The materials list: (clockwise from top left)
# One - good quality dual outlet airpump. I recommend the whisper 20/60 or the pulsar four. both are @ $20.00
# One - cheap pull up tripper type timer about @ $5.00, please dont try aero cloning without the timer, it is critical imho for fast rooting.
# A short length of 1/2" rubber fuel line or vynil tubing.
# Fishtank airline or (preferred) some soft flexible black vynil drip line for the air bubblers.
# One - Rubbermaid roughneck 1 gallon tub with lid @ $1.00
# Two - aquaculture "bubble curtain" 10" bubble wands. @ $3.50 each
# Assembly tools: drill bit(s), sharp box cutter knife, drip line punch and coupler fittings (optional).
# One - tube of Goop brand plumbers adhesive @ $4.00
# One - Spray can of Plasti-Dip brand "Spray-On" black rubber coating @ $6.00
# One - 7-1/2 watt fishbowl heater. Walmart @ $6.00
AF has great luck using the cheap heater. However, please note that the small heater has no thermostatic control, depending on your room temperature, it may need to be connected to a timer and monitored to be certain that you dont overheat the water. So, if you can find a fully submersible thermostatic controlled heater that will fit in the tub without getting in the way of the air bubbles, I highly recommend doing so. There are several on the market which will mount along the bottom of the tub, parallel to the bubble curtains, use 25 watts or smaller size. You can also use use a thermostat controlled heating mat or place the entire cloner tub in a larger tray of water with an aquarium heater if you have a submirsible unit which is too large to fit in your tub.
The bubble curtains...
The Aqua Tech brand "bubble curtain" or equivalent are the only bubble device I'd recommend for bubble cloning. They are the least restrictive to pump air thru, and because of their hollow tubular design they produce a very uniform bubble coverage thruout the entire length of the wand.
Cut the bubble curtains to fit the length of the tub.
Remove the end cap and cut the wand to length using a sharp box cutter or razor blade knife. Replace endcaps.
One wand or two ?
The cheapo works great with one wand or two. For this project lets use two wands. Note picture also shows the location of the little heater installed. Use a dab of goop on the heaters suction cup to hold it in place between the wands.
Glue in the wand holding clips
The suction cups provided with the bubble curtains are prone to failure, when the cups stop sticking the air wand floats to the surface and the bubbling action stops working, causing failed clones.
Pull the clips out of the suction cups and glue them in place using the Goop plumbers adhesive to the bottom of the tub. You should rough up the gluing surface by scratching it with a knife or coarse sandpaper for a better grip.
Allow the glue to dry for at least two days to be sure its fully cured.
The waterline
The rubbermaid one gallon tub has a ridge molded in about 2-1/2" from the top. This will be the waterline.
For a nice sanitary assembly, punch two dripline couplers thru about a 1/4" above the ridge for the airlines to exit the tub.
Spray on the plasti dip black rubber coating...
The tub needs to be coated to prevent light from penetrating the tub and slowing down the rooting process. Normal spray paint does not stick and is too light transparent. The plasti dip sticks to the rubbermaid very well and with two or three coats fairly thick and very light proof. Spray and dry in a very well ventilated area.
You can get away with a few layers of duct tape, or a layer of "anti-corrosion pipe wrapping tape". But, the Plasti-Dip I've found to be the best solution for light proofing and neatness.
Drill the lid for the clone support tubes
underside of lid to show hole pattern used
For small clones, the 1/4" o.d. x .170 i.d. flexible drip line works fine for support tubes, but rooted clones can be tricky to remove from small the lid holes. Note tape tabs to keep the smaller supports from falling thru the lid, and numbering to identify the clones.
Optional larger support tube holes (recommended).
Using the 1/2" tubing for support tubes makes it much easier to remove the rooted clones from the lid. Number the holes to identify the clones later on. With either size holes, the *support tubes are cut to a maximum length of 1/2" and split down one side to be able to remove the rooted clones.
*It is important to have the support tubes cut short (@ 1/2" max). The original plans had longer tubes which caused problems on some cuttings.
You're all done building your Cheapo-Aero cloner
Happy cloning,
10k
Other helpful aero cloning faqs...
Testing bubble mist cloners for adequate mist coverage
Prepairing new cuttings for aero cloning
Transplanting aero clones to soil
Last modified: 04:49 - Feb 26, 2001
Building a Cheapo-Aero cloning tub
Added by: 10k Last edited by: 10k Viewed: 905 times Rated by 49 users: 9.56/10
The cheapo-Aero cloner is a very simple device to build.
It will perform just as well as expensive aero cloners costing hundreds of dollars. It operates on the same principle as every other aero cloner on the market, which is that the stems of the cuttings are suspended in an air space being misted by a fine spray of tiny flying water droplets.
Some aero cloner variations...
Some aero cloners work by way of the water being sprayed thru fine mist sprayheads by a water pump, others like the Rainforest cloner work by a spinning rotor which flings small water specs at the stems. There are even cloners on the market which use ultrasonic humidifier fog being pumped thru a chamber holding the stems.
The cheapo-aero works on the "bubbling bucket" principle, where tiny water droplets are created by the action of the air bubbles bursting at the water surface, sending a mist of water flying thru the open air space above the waterline where the stems are located.
I named it "Cheapo-Aero" because it is a cheap and simple alternative to the more complicated water pumped thru sprayers type aero cloner tubs. Ok, lets do it...
The materials list: (clockwise from top left)
# One - good quality dual outlet airpump. I recommend the whisper 20/60 or the pulsar four. both are @ $20.00
# One - cheap pull up tripper type timer about @ $5.00, please dont try aero cloning without the timer, it is critical imho for fast rooting.
# A short length of 1/2" rubber fuel line or vynil tubing.
# Fishtank airline or (preferred) some soft flexible black vynil drip line for the air bubblers.
# One - Rubbermaid roughneck 1 gallon tub with lid @ $1.00
# Two - aquaculture "bubble curtain" 10" bubble wands. @ $3.50 each
# Assembly tools: drill bit(s), sharp box cutter knife, drip line punch and coupler fittings (optional).
# One - tube of Goop brand plumbers adhesive @ $4.00
# One - Spray can of Plasti-Dip brand "Spray-On" black rubber coating @ $6.00
# One - 7-1/2 watt fishbowl heater. Walmart @ $6.00
AF has great luck using the cheap heater. However, please note that the small heater has no thermostatic control, depending on your room temperature, it may need to be connected to a timer and monitored to be certain that you dont overheat the water. So, if you can find a fully submersible thermostatic controlled heater that will fit in the tub without getting in the way of the air bubbles, I highly recommend doing so. There are several on the market which will mount along the bottom of the tub, parallel to the bubble curtains, use 25 watts or smaller size. You can also use use a thermostat controlled heating mat or place the entire cloner tub in a larger tray of water with an aquarium heater if you have a submirsible unit which is too large to fit in your tub.
The bubble curtains...
The Aqua Tech brand "bubble curtain" or equivalent are the only bubble device I'd recommend for bubble cloning. They are the least restrictive to pump air thru, and because of their hollow tubular design they produce a very uniform bubble coverage thruout the entire length of the wand.
Cut the bubble curtains to fit the length of the tub.
Remove the end cap and cut the wand to length using a sharp box cutter or razor blade knife. Replace endcaps.
One wand or two ?
The cheapo works great with one wand or two. For this project lets use two wands. Note picture also shows the location of the little heater installed. Use a dab of goop on the heaters suction cup to hold it in place between the wands.
Glue in the wand holding clips
The suction cups provided with the bubble curtains are prone to failure, when the cups stop sticking the air wand floats to the surface and the bubbling action stops working, causing failed clones.
Pull the clips out of the suction cups and glue them in place using the Goop plumbers adhesive to the bottom of the tub. You should rough up the gluing surface by scratching it with a knife or coarse sandpaper for a better grip.
Allow the glue to dry for at least two days to be sure its fully cured.
The waterline
The rubbermaid one gallon tub has a ridge molded in about 2-1/2" from the top. This will be the waterline.
For a nice sanitary assembly, punch two dripline couplers thru about a 1/4" above the ridge for the airlines to exit the tub.
Spray on the plasti dip black rubber coating...
The tub needs to be coated to prevent light from penetrating the tub and slowing down the rooting process. Normal spray paint does not stick and is too light transparent. The plasti dip sticks to the rubbermaid very well and with two or three coats fairly thick and very light proof. Spray and dry in a very well ventilated area.
You can get away with a few layers of duct tape, or a layer of "anti-corrosion pipe wrapping tape". But, the Plasti-Dip I've found to be the best solution for light proofing and neatness.
Drill the lid for the clone support tubes
underside of lid to show hole pattern used
For small clones, the 1/4" o.d. x .170 i.d. flexible drip line works fine for support tubes, but rooted clones can be tricky to remove from small the lid holes. Note tape tabs to keep the smaller supports from falling thru the lid, and numbering to identify the clones.
Optional larger support tube holes (recommended).
Using the 1/2" tubing for support tubes makes it much easier to remove the rooted clones from the lid. Number the holes to identify the clones later on. With either size holes, the *support tubes are cut to a maximum length of 1/2" and split down one side to be able to remove the rooted clones.
*It is important to have the support tubes cut short (@ 1/2" max). The original plans had longer tubes which caused problems on some cuttings.
You're all done building your Cheapo-Aero cloner
Happy cloning,
10k
Other helpful aero cloning faqs...
Testing bubble mist cloners for adequate mist coverage
Prepairing new cuttings for aero cloning
Transplanting aero clones to soil
Last modified: 04:49 - Feb 26, 2001
Here is my 10K cheapo aero-cloner-
I used Foil tape to block light out, but basicly it is the same as 10K's. Its the only way I have cloned for 3 years now.
I used Foil tape to block light out, but basicly it is the same as 10K's. Its the only way I have cloned for 3 years now.
G
Guest
the roots aren't actually sitting inside the water??
the cutting should not be sitting in the water but after it roots then yes the roots should most definately be sitting in the water. but must stress not to let the cutting sit in the water otherwise ur not gonna have a very good ratio of rooted clones.
the bubble wands shoot the water up to the cutting which then produces roots. hope that helped.
the bubble wands shoot the water up to the cutting which then produces roots. hope that helped.
Look at it this way, if you keep the water below the clones its a Aero-cloner. If the bottoms of the clones are in the water its a bubble cloner.
I have had sucess using it all kinds of ways. The style I have settled on is mostly like a bubble cloner, the bottoms of the clones touch, or are very close to the water, I run the air pump 24/7. I have the heater on a timer, it comes on often enough to keep the temp above 75F and below 80F.
Used as a aero cloner, you use the pump on a timer too. The stems don't touch the water, so the only moisture they get is from the droplets thrown up by the bubble stones. The clones get only what they need to stay healthy, the frequent dry spells will force them to grow roots and search for reliable water, and at the same time they get lots of oxygen.
But the way I have grown to do it is totally the opposite of what is supposed to be optimum, works great for me, funny how that works.
I have had sucess using it all kinds of ways. The style I have settled on is mostly like a bubble cloner, the bottoms of the clones touch, or are very close to the water, I run the air pump 24/7. I have the heater on a timer, it comes on often enough to keep the temp above 75F and below 80F.
Used as a aero cloner, you use the pump on a timer too. The stems don't touch the water, so the only moisture they get is from the droplets thrown up by the bubble stones. The clones get only what they need to stay healthy, the frequent dry spells will force them to grow roots and search for reliable water, and at the same time they get lots of oxygen.
But the way I have grown to do it is totally the opposite of what is supposed to be optimum, works great for me, funny how that works.
G
Guest
Why do you all lightproof your cloner?
Isn't needed when you use plain tapwater with no nutes etc in it and it's nice to see the roots develop.
I tried different types of cloners and found no difference between lightproofed and clear containers. When you clone in bubble cloner no nutes/root stimulators are needed. I do use a lightproofed now but that's only cuzz i threw away all the others (my house looked like a refugee place for Rubbermaid bins).
Stems above or in water: either way works but when you keep the stems IN the water your clones will not dry out or droop.
What i found really made a difference in rooting time was using 18/6 lighting, had roots popping out 4days sooner opposed to 24/7 lighting.
Keep the airpump on 24/7, no need to put it on a timer.
GL with cloning.
Isn't needed when you use plain tapwater with no nutes etc in it and it's nice to see the roots develop.
I tried different types of cloners and found no difference between lightproofed and clear containers. When you clone in bubble cloner no nutes/root stimulators are needed. I do use a lightproofed now but that's only cuzz i threw away all the others (my house looked like a refugee place for Rubbermaid bins).
Stems above or in water: either way works but when you keep the stems IN the water your clones will not dry out or droop.
What i found really made a difference in rooting time was using 18/6 lighting, had roots popping out 4days sooner opposed to 24/7 lighting.
Keep the airpump on 24/7, no need to put it on a timer.
GL with cloning.
Ya know I read a thread by Lothar(Lothar of OG here), where he was using the Aero-cloner incorrectly, and having great sucess. He was using the cloner like I do, and he did nothing to light-proof his cloner, but it worked great! I followed the directions and light proofed mine when I built it years ago, but then I read Lothars thread and wondered if it was really important after all.....
not in mine. as the bubbles come to the surface and pop the water goes shooting out at the stems. once you get it built you'll see. hold you hand over the water and you'll feel the little drops hitting your hand. You really might want to go with a deeper container than that.
yeah i was reading around on a legit (non mj) hydro site and they were talking about teaching water cloning and how one teachers class found their cutting rooted faster in see through containers. plus those little gel containers to root cutting you can buy are see through.
yeah i was reading around on a legit (non mj) hydro site and they were talking about teaching water cloning and how one teachers class found their cutting rooted faster in see through containers. plus those little gel containers to root cutting you can buy are see through.
G
Guest
how about tossing the lid, getting a piece of styrofoam cutting it to size to fit in the container and poke little holes in the styrofoam where you want the clones to sit. Next, get the airstones setup etc. fill the container to whatever level you like then sit the styrofoam on the water, it'll float by itself so no need to worry about the water level. Take your cuttings, apply a little rooting gel/powder and place them in the holes you cut out. Maybe a little superthrive in the water for good measure and make sure you spray the clones with cloning wax so they dont lose too much water from respiration. The foam will float so water level is easily checked and once roots start to show you could transplant them directly into whatever medium you may wish to use. Oh, and it doesnt matter if the container is see-through when you use this system of bubbler/water cloning. Good luck and hope it works out for you....
G
Guest
BTW, have any of you tried plian water cloning? like a cutting in a glass of water. If so, does it work well? sorry had to ask....
