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? Broad mites and heat treatment.
- Thread starter robotwithdreams
- Start date
Loose Cannon
Active member
Heat treated 26' x 20' x 9' last night.
On scope for a few hours now w NO life.
ONE began to wilt a bit as it happens to be in 2 gal w coco so was dry.
Douched her immediately and shut down after 1 hour and 15 @ 119.6 begin/ 121.6 end.
Advice would be water well day before just prior to lights out, heat up when lights come on.
It works so far and will repeat in veg rooms and perhaps weekly in floral.
On scope for a few hours now w NO life.
ONE began to wilt a bit as it happens to be in 2 gal w coco so was dry.
Douched her immediately and shut down after 1 hour and 15 @ 119.6 begin/ 121.6 end.
Advice would be water well day before just prior to lights out, heat up when lights come on.
It works so far and will repeat in veg rooms and perhaps weekly in floral.
stillmatic
New member
Hey Calikush I have a similar problem in my DWC tent setup any luck on treating it?
WRONG!!!!!!!!!! Totally bogus information from someone who has no idea at all. Why would you even post that nonsense?
Broad & cyclamen mites cannot survive 120F. Period.
Keep aspirin in your rez to prevent toxins from hurting/dudding plants. Do not stop the aspirin throughout the grow. 120F for an hour kills mites on plants, and in the room.
Greeneleaf420
Member
How much aspirin per gal is sufficient ? Just recently threw all genetics away bombed bleached and scrubbed and started over and don't ever want to deal with them again BMs will definitely make you tighten up your preventative regiments
Thanks for dropping in retro. Much appreciated.
Green leaf, one pill per gallon is sufficient, 325mg. Uncoated.
Green leaf, one pill per gallon is sufficient, 325mg. Uncoated.
You sound like you have an answer worth a try . I would like to cook the little bastards as soon as they are picked I thought a 4/4 smokehouse (no smoke) would work and have 120 for 1 hr. That would stop them from continuing to eat while drying. Any suggestions?
Heat treatment works, plain & simple. The main problem is that there is some trial & error to reach the correct temperature. Err on the side of caution, and add more heat gradually until you get to 120F. Once dialed in, it's easy to repeat, and can be repeated as often as you like if mites continue to enter your room from outside or elsewhere in your house. And it works even in flower without damaging plants. Always keep the aspirin going when broad mites are/have been present. Even after mites are dead, toxins are still in the plant, and aspirin mitigates that aspect.
caredrivensf
Member
caredrivensf
Member
your only options are predatory mites, azamax with Neem oil and wettable sulfer treatments
Although I don't have broad mites, I have a slight infestation of SM. I'm gonna try the heat treatment today to see how it works out, I usually use a miticide used for racing pigeons, it always takes care of them little bastards. It might be a good idea to water your plants with a nice cool drink before you push the temps to 120+, there is a heat exchange going on with the plants, a nice cool rootball will take away some stress....just my thoughts.
HGO
HGO
Hello Robot and Everyone!
I am in the midst of a Spider Mite infestation and am hopeful regarding these methods that I am working with. I do not want to hi jack this thread so here is the link. I provide this link due to the holistic nature of this Spray in purportedly not just controlling Spider Mites but MANY species of Insects due to their digestive systems.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=331311
I believe this foliar spray could be not just a great way to destroy Mites but other Pests as well because most bugs CANNOT digest Sugar.
Here is an excerpt for the reasoning.
“Sugars are how plants store energy for rainy days and winter hibernation. So, why is this important to you as a gardener? Aside from basically giving your plants a power boost, you are stopping bugs. “What?” you ask. Yes, it stops bugs. Insects are very simple creatures. They can only feed within a narrow window of sugar content. They take one bite and move on.
The second way molasses controls insects, is by being directly ingested by the insect. What most people don’t know is that only Sugar Ants and bees can easily process the simplest sugars. Insects have no way of expelling the gas that builds up from fermenting sugar and the vegetation in their gut (draw your own mental pictures please). Plus, they have exoskeletons and can’t get bloated. Their delicate internal organs are crushed from the inside out. All a bug needs to do, is walk through or try to feed on a molasses covered plant. Insects are constantly cleaning themselves. They will try to lick the molasses off their feet and swallow it. If they take a bite of a molasses coated plant, they will swallow it.”
This is the Recipe
1 cup of brown sugar
1 cup of 3% hydrogen peroxide
1 gallon water
I hope this may prove to be of help. I also will be posting a link to the usages of Hydrogen Peroxide in Agricultural applications for Organic and non-Organic use by the Agricultural Dept of Cornell University.
Warmest Regards,
Pippa
PS I already use Molasses in my Nutrient Program and am a BIG FAN of its use for Agricultural applications whether they are for Vegetable, Fruit or Cannabis. Cheers, P. Oh, and ADDED BONUS is that you do not harm Bee's! They can process Sugar and it is our duty to protect them in these times of Global Warming.
I am in the midst of a Spider Mite infestation and am hopeful regarding these methods that I am working with. I do not want to hi jack this thread so here is the link. I provide this link due to the holistic nature of this Spray in purportedly not just controlling Spider Mites but MANY species of Insects due to their digestive systems.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=331311
I believe this foliar spray could be not just a great way to destroy Mites but other Pests as well because most bugs CANNOT digest Sugar.
Here is an excerpt for the reasoning.
“Sugars are how plants store energy for rainy days and winter hibernation. So, why is this important to you as a gardener? Aside from basically giving your plants a power boost, you are stopping bugs. “What?” you ask. Yes, it stops bugs. Insects are very simple creatures. They can only feed within a narrow window of sugar content. They take one bite and move on.
The second way molasses controls insects, is by being directly ingested by the insect. What most people don’t know is that only Sugar Ants and bees can easily process the simplest sugars. Insects have no way of expelling the gas that builds up from fermenting sugar and the vegetation in their gut (draw your own mental pictures please). Plus, they have exoskeletons and can’t get bloated. Their delicate internal organs are crushed from the inside out. All a bug needs to do, is walk through or try to feed on a molasses covered plant. Insects are constantly cleaning themselves. They will try to lick the molasses off their feet and swallow it. If they take a bite of a molasses coated plant, they will swallow it.”
This is the Recipe
1 cup of brown sugar
1 cup of 3% hydrogen peroxide
1 gallon water
I hope this may prove to be of help. I also will be posting a link to the usages of Hydrogen Peroxide in Agricultural applications for Organic and non-Organic use by the Agricultural Dept of Cornell University.
Warmest Regards,
Pippa
PS I already use Molasses in my Nutrient Program and am a BIG FAN of its use for Agricultural applications whether they are for Vegetable, Fruit or Cannabis. Cheers, P. Oh, and ADDED BONUS is that you do not harm Bee's! They can process Sugar and it is our duty to protect them in these times of Global Warming.
