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BOKASHI /EM-1 In horticulture (Compost by FERMENTATION)

Vandenberg

Well-known member
This Wiki Style basic information format is a good place to start a "what the hell is Bokashi and what is used for in horticulture?" Type of a discussion, so here we go. :)

Bokashi is a process that converts food waste and similar organic matter into a soil amendment which adds nutrients and improves soil texture. It differs from traditional composting methods in several respects. The most important are:

  • The input matter is fermented by specialist bacteria, not decomposed.
  • The fermented matter is fed directly to field or garden soil, without requiring further time to mature.
  • As a result, virtually all input carbon, energy and nutrients enter the soil food web, having been neither emitted in greenhouse gases and heat nor leached out.

A soil ball with indigenous worms in soil amended a few weeks previously with bokashi fermented matter.
Other names attributed to this process include bokashi composting, bokashi fermentation and fermented composting.

The name bokashi is transliterated from spoken Japanese (ぼかし).

The Process;​


A household bokashi bin with a supply of fermentation starter, namely bran inoculated with Lactobacilli.

The basic stages of the process are:

  1. Organic matter is inoculated with Lactobacilli. These will convert a fraction of the carbohydrates in the input to lactic acid by homolactic fermentation.[3]
  2. Fermented anaerobically (more precisely, microaerobically)[4] for a few weeks at typical room temperatures in an airtight vessel, the organic matter is preserved by the acid, in a process closely related to the making of some fermented foods and silage. The preserve is normally applied to soil when ready, or can be stored unopened for later use.
  3. The preserve is mixed into soil that has naturally occurring micro-organisms.
  4. When water is present (as in the preserve itself or in the soil) the lactic acid progressively dissociates by losing protons to become lactate – the acid's conjugate base or ion salt.[5] Lactate is a fundamental energy carrier in biological processes. It can pass through cell membranes and almost all living organisms have the enzyme lactate dehydrogenase to convert it to pyruvate for energy production.
  5. Suffused with lactate, the preserve is readily consumed by the indigenous soil life, primarily the bacteria, 'disappearing' within a very few weeks at normal temperatures. Earthworm action is typically prominent as bacteria are themselves consumed, such that the amended soil acquires a texture associated with vermicompost.

Inside a recently started bokashi bin.
Food scraps are raised on a perforated plate (to drain runoff) and are partly covered by a layer of bran.
The process is typically applied to food waste from households, workplaces and catering establishments, because such waste normally holds a good proportion of carbohydrates.
It is applied to other organic waste by supplementing carbohydrates and hence lactic acid production.
Recipes for large scale bokashi in horticulture often include rice, and molasses or sugar.[6][7] Any carbohydrate-poor waste stream would benefit from this.

Homolactic fermentation
can process significantly more kinds of food waste than home composting.

Even items such as cooked leftovers, meat and skin, fat, cheese and citrus waste are, in effect, pre-digested to enable soil life to consume them.

Large pieces may take longer to ferment and concave surfaces may trap air, in which cases cutting down is advised in support literature.


Pieces of input are discarded if they are already badly rotten, or show green or black mould. These harbour putrefying organisms which may overwhelm the fermentation.

Emissions

Carbon, gases and energyEdit

Homolactic fermentation emits no gas; its overall equation is C6H12O6 → 2 CH3CHOHCOOH (carbohydrate to lactic acid).
It is a mildly endothermic reaction, emitting no energy; the fermentation vessel remains at ambient temperature.

These are in marked contrast to decomposition, which emits the majority of its input carbon and energy within greenhouse gases (carbon dioxide and methane, in proportions determined by the method of decomposition) and as heat (in aerobic decomposition).[9]

Decomposition also loses the key plant nutrient nitrogen (in the potent greenhouse gas nitrous oxide and in ammonia).[10]

Runoff​

When fermentation begins, physical structures start to break down and release some of the input's water content as a liquid runoff. Over time this constitutes more than 10% of the input by weight. The quantity varies with the input: for example cucumber and melon flesh lead to a noticeable increase.

The liquid leaches out a valuable fraction of proteins, nutrients and lactic acid. To recover them, and to avoid drowning the fermentation, runoff is captured from the fermentation vessel, either through a tap, into a base of absorbent material such as biochar or waste cardboard, or into a lower chamber. The runoff is sometimes called "bokashi tea".

The uses of bokashi tea are not the same as those of "compost tea". It is used most effectively when diluted and sprinkled over a targeted area of soil to feed the soil ecosystem. Dilution makes it less acidic and thus less dangerous to plants. Dilution also causes more acid to convert into lactate which is an attractive food for soil microbes. Other uses are either potentially damaging (e.g. feeding plants with acidic water) or wasteful (e.g. cleaning drains with plant nutrients, feeding plants with nutrients in a form they cannot take up).


Household containers ("bokashi bins")
typically give a batch size of 5–10 kilograms (11–22 lb). This is accumulated over a few weeks of regular additions. Each regular addition is best accumulated in a caddy, because it is recommended that one opens the bokashi bin no more frequently than once per day to let anaerobic conditions predominate.

In horticultural settings batches can be orders of magnitude greater.[6][10]
Silage technology may be usable if it is adapted to capture runoff.
An industrial-scale technique mimics the windrows of large-scale composting, except that bokashi windrows are compacted, covered tightly and left undisturbed, all to promote anaerobic conditions.
One study suggests that such windrows lose only minor amounts of carbon, energy and nitrogen.
[10]

Hygiene​

Bokashi is inherently hygienic in the following senses:

  • Lactic acid is a strong natural bactericide, with well-known antimicrobial properties.[11] It is an active ingredient of some toilet cleaners.[12] As more is produced, it eventually suppresses even its own makers, the acid-resistant lactobacilli, such that bokashi fermentation eventually slows and stops itself. There is also evidence that mesophilic (ambient temperature) fermentation kills eggs of the Ascaris worm – a parasite of humans – in 14 days.[13]
  • The fermentation bin does not release smells when it is closed. A household bin is only opened for a minute or so to add and inoculate input via the lid or to drain runoff via the tap. At these times the user encounters the sour odour of lacto-fermentation (often described as a "pickle") which is much less offensive than the odour of decomposition.[14]
  • When closed, an airtight fermentation bin cannot attract insects.
  • Bokashi literature claims that scavengers dislike the fermented matter and avoid it in gardens.[15]

Addition to soil​

Fermented bokashi is added to a suitable area of soil.
The typical approach that is usually recommended by suppliers of household bokashi is along the lines of "dig a trench in the soil in your garden, add the waste and cover over."[16]
In practice, regularly finding suitable sites for trenches that will later underlie plants is difficult in an established plot.
To address this, an alternative is a 'soil factory'.[17]
This is a bounded area of soil into which several loads of bokashi preserve are mixed over time.
Amended soil can be taken from it for use elsewhere.
It may be of any size. It may be permanently sited or in rotation. It may be enclosed, wire-netted or covered to keep out surface animals.

Spent soil or compost, and organic amendments such as biochar may be added, as may non-fermented material, in which case the boundary between bokashi and composting becomes blurred.

A proposed alternative[18] is to homogenise (and potentially dilute) the preserve into a slurry, which is spread on the soil surface. This approach requires energy for homogenisation but, logically from the characteristics set out above, should confer several advantages: thoroughly oxidising the preserve; disturbing no deeper layers, except by increased worm action; being of little use to scavenging animals; applicable to large areas; and, if done repeatedly, able to sustain a more extensive soil ecosystem.

History​

The practice of bokashi is believed to have its earliest roots in ancient Korea.[citation needed]
This traditional form ferments waste directly in soil, relying on native bacteria and on careful burial for an anaerobic environment.
A modernised horticultural method called Korean Natural Farming includes fermentation by indigenous micro-organisms (IM or IMO) harvested locally, but has numerous other elements too.
A commercial Japanese bokashi method was developed by Teruo Higa in 1982 under the 'EM' trademark (short for Effective Microorganisms).[19]
EM became the best known form of bokashi worldwide, mainly in household use, claiming to have reached over 120 countries.[19]

While none have disputed that EM starts homolactic fermentation and hence produces a soil amendment, other claims have been contested robustly. Controversy relates partly to other uses, such as direct inoculation of soil with EM and direct feeding of EM to animals, and partly to whether the soil amendment's effects are due simply to the energy and nutrient values of the fermented material rather than to particular microorganisms.[20] Arguably, EM's heavy focus on microorganisms has diverted scientific attention away from both the bokashi process as a whole and the particular roles in it of lactic acid, lactate, and soil life above the bacterial level.

Alternative approaches
Some organisms in EM, specifically photosynthetic bacteria and yeast, appear to be logically superfluous, as they will first be suppressed by the dark and anaerobic environment of homolactic fermentation, then killed by its lactic acid. Consequently, practitioners have sought to reduce costs and to widen the scale of operations. Success has been reported with:

  • Self-harvested micro-organisms, tested for lacto-fermentation;[21][22]
  • Lactobacilli alone, i.e. without other EM micro-organisms;[23] one such source is acid whey from yogurt;[24]
  • Alternative substrates for inoculant, such as newsprint;[24]
  • Home-made airtight fermentation vessels;
  • Larger scale than a household, for example a group of small farmers.[25]
  • No intentional addition of microbes at all, similar to the original Korean method. The resulting mixture will smell worse as acetic acid, propanoic acid, and butyric acid can form instead of lactic acid, but works equally well as soil amendment.[4]

Uses​

The main use of bokashi that is described above is to recover value from organic waste by converting it into a soil amendment.

In Europe, food and drink material that is sent to animal feed does not legally constitute waste because it is regarded as 'redistribution.'[26] This may apply to bokashi made from food, because it enters the soil food web, and furthermore is inherently pathogen-free.

A side effect of diverting organic waste to the soil food web is to divert it away from local waste management streams and their associated costs of collection and disposal. To encourage this, for example most UK local authorities subsidise household bokashi starter kits through a National Home Composting Framework.[27]

Another side effect is to increase the organic carbon content of the amended soil. Some of this is a relatively long-term carbon sink – insofar as the soil ecosystem creates humus – and some is temporary for as long as the richer ecosystem is sustained by measures such as permanent planting, no-till cultivation and organic mulch. An example of these measures is seen at the Ferme du Bec Hellouin [fr] in France.[22] Bokashi would therefore have potential uses in enabling communities to speed up the conversion of land from chemical to organic horticulture and agriculture, to regenerate degraded soil, and to develop urban and peri-urban horticulture close to the sources of input.

The anti-pathogenic nature of bokashi is applied to sanitation, in particular to the treatment of faeces. Equipment and supplies to treat pet faeces are sold commercially[28] but do not always give prominence to the hygiene risks.[29] Treatment of human faeces for soil amendment has been extensively studied, notably with the use of biochar (a soil improver in its own right) to remove odours and retain nutrients.[30] Social acceptability is a major obstacle, but niche markets such as emergency aid sanitation, outdoor events and temporary workplaces may develop the technology into a disruptive innovation.
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KOREAN NATURAL FARMING IS A NATURAL RELATIVE TANGENT FROM HERE;
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EM-1 (Effective Microorganisms)

This Microbial Inoculant converts organic matter into soil humus and improves soil structure by producing high levels of polysaccharides, beneficial enzymes and organic acids.
The end product is amended soil that is better able to absorb and retain moisture, as well as cycle nutrients.
EM-1®,
is a liquid bacterial product comprising three groups of microbes: Yeast, Photosynthetic Bacteria, and Lactic Acid Bacteria.
EM-1®is a trademarked name, I have bought the same thing on Etsy marketplace marketed sold and labeled as "accelerator"@ a much better price. EM "Serum" is anther popular name.

Manure Management for Fly and Odor Control! Apply EM-1 to manure, areas of heavy urination and compost piles to accelerate the breakdown of organic matter resulting in fewer breeding sites for flies and other insects.

Suggested Uses:
Apply to soils and lawn areas, on crops and ornamentals, around animal housing areas, and for bioremediation indoors.
EM-1 is excellent for managing manure piles and areas where animals urinate or are washed.

General Application Rate: 1 oz. (2 tablespoons) per gallon of water.

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Any experiences utilizing these practices?
My experience level is rated cherry on this one, after receiving my first bottle a week or so ago which I am currently expanding the volume of , recipe to follow.
The first thing with my supply of EM accelerator was to pour some down into the ol' septic tank for some party food for these anaerobic condition loving microbes. :)

Vandenberg :)
 
Last edited:

Vandenberg

Well-known member
How to expand your liquid Essential Microbes volume by 20 times.

1: In a clean plastic container with a lid, add 1 part (5%) of EM•1®, and 1 part (5%) of pure molasses, mixed in 18 parts (90%) of clean water. Mix well to form a homogeneous solution

2: Cover to keep conditions airtight, and let ferment for 4 to 7 days. As needed, open the lid slightly to release gas that is produced from fermentation inside the container

3: Activated EM•1® is ready to use from the 4th to the 7th day, when the pH of the solution is between 3.2-3.6, or when it has a pleasant bittersweet smell and the color changes from dark brown. to orange-brown.

activated-em-1-graphic.png

ADDITIONAL NOTES
  • Activated EM•1® must be used no later than 90 days after activation
  • For best results, activate in temperatures equal or greater than 62°F. Activations in temperatures below 62°F will take longer than 7 days to activate, and activation (or storage) below 31°F will freeze and kill microbes (including EM•1®).
  • Always store the Activated EM•1® tightly covered, in a cool, ventilated place, out of the reach of children and pets.
:)

General Application Rates​

Once you have your EM-1, putting it to use is easy.
The best benefits come when you apply EM-1 on a regular schedule in small doses, though at a minimum it should be applied in the spring and fall.

To add a boost of probiotic benefits to your garden plants through a foliage spray, simply fill a hose-end sprayer with your EM-1, set it to 2 TBS per gallon, and thoroughly spray your plants and soil.
You can repeat this process once a week throughout the year for the best benefits.

EM-1 can also be applied to compost in order to speed up the process at a rate of one part EM-1 to 99 parts water (about two tsp per gallon of water).
Add this mixture to your compost until it is moist, but not soaked in order to accelerate the rate that the organic material breaks down.

Your piles can be infused up to eight times a year.

When not in use, EM-1 should be stored out of direct sunlight and at room temperature.
Don’t let the mixture freeze or overheat above 115 degrees F, as this will kill off most of the beneficial bacteria.
If you have plenty of EM-1 left but it’s approaching the “best by date” you can reactivate the mixture by adding in several tablespoons of blackstrap molasses to encourage a feeding frenzy and grow more microbes.
When properly taken care of, your EM1 supply can last you for years to come and work as an efficient and effective way to increase the natural vitality of your garden.
:)
 
Last edited:

Vandenberg

Well-known member


Bokashi is a Japanese word that means ‘fermented organic matter’.
A bokashi system ‘ferments’ rather than composts – this is an important distinction to make.
By fermenting food waste first, you can add it to your garden or compost where it will decompose more efficiently.

In a bokashi system, compostable materials are placed in an airtight container.
Scraps are combined with layers of a special inoculant; usually, a carbon-rich substrate combined with molasses and a microbial mix of what are known as ‘efficient microorganisms’.


Bokashi bran

Bokashi bran is normally purchased ready-made.
The initial cost of purchasing the bins, plus the ongoing cost of the bokashi bran sometimes puts people off using what is otherwise a really good system.
On average each bin-full of waste will use about 200 grams of bokashi bran, costing about £1 or more in the UK. ( a dollar- ish usd)

If you are fermenting a lot of waste, it works out much cheaper to make your own bran.
There are various recipes for bokashi bran on the web, but most work with large quantities and aren't suitable for normal home use.
Some make their own mix of micro-organisms - probably not advisable unless you know what you are doing!


However, it is possible to purchase the EM-1 Effective Micro-Organisms and make a smaller quantity of the standard bran mixture yourself at home.

This is a very simple and easy recipe for a batch of EM bokashi bran, enough to supply an average home for at least a month.
The recipe can be scaled up if you want to make a few month's supply - the mix should store for up to a year - but remember that it works best when fresh.

EM-1 DIY Bran Recipe

Mix one tablespoon (15ml) of molasses into 250ml of warm water, then add one tablespoon (15ml) of EM-1.

Pour the mixture into 500g of wheat bran and mix very thoroughly. The bran will expand as it absorbs the water - it should feel moist but not soggy.

When it's well mixed, seal it up in an airtight container and leave in a warm, dark place for about 2-3 weeks.

VERY IMPORTANT
- don't open it up at all for at least two weeks, not even to have a quick peep, or the process won't work!

When the time is up, the bran should smell fermented and there may be some white mould on the surface, which is a good sign.

The mixture is now ready to use, but keeps better if it's well dried. Spread out on a tray away from direct sunlight until completely dry then store in a cool dry place.

The bran should remain active for at least a year.

There is a good demonstration of how to make bokashi bran in the video at the bottom of our post on
Bokashi Composting.

Other uses for bokashi bran
Many people give bokashi bran to their chickens to reduce the acidity of their droppings and keep their digestive systems healthy.
The bran is sprinkled on the droppings below their perches, and also fed at a rate of 3-5% of the weight of their feed.
Bokashi bran is also said to be a good feed supplement for horses. Apparently about 100g per day can improve digestion, re-balance the gut flora and boost the immune system.


The video below by Sara Bäckmo and is a really good demonstration of how quickly the bokashi waste disappears once it's dug into the ground. It is English lanquage sub-titled.


Beginners Guide to Bokashi Compost / what to expect start to finish.



Vandenberg :)
 
Last edited:

Bio boy

Active member
How to expand your liquid Essential Microbes volume by 20 times.

1: In a clean plastic container with a lid, add 1 part (5%) of EM•1®, and 1 part (5%) of pure molasses, mixed in 18 parts (90%) of clean water. Mix well to form a homogeneous solution

2: Cover to keep conditions airtight, and let ferment for 4 to 7 days. As needed, open the lid slightly to release gas that is produced from fermentation inside the container

3: Activated EM•1® is ready to use from the 4th to the 7th day, when the pH of the solution is between 3.2-3.6, or when it has a pleasant bittersweet smell and the color changes from dark brown. to orange-brown.

activated-em-1-graphic.png

ADDITIONAL NOTES
  • Activated EM•1® must be used no later than 90 days after activation
  • For best results, activate in temperatures equal or greater than 62°F. Activations in temperatures below 62°F will take longer than 7 days to activate, and activation (or storage) below 31°F will freeze and kill microbes (including EM•1®).
  • Always store the Activated EM•1® tightly covered, in a cool, ventilated place, out of the reach of children and pets.
:)

General Application Rates​

Once you have your EM-1, putting it to use is easy.
The best benefits come when you apply EM-1 on a regular schedule in small doses, though at a minimum it should be applied in the spring and fall.

To add a boost of probiotic benefits to your garden plants through a foliage spray, simply fill a hose-end sprayer with your EM-1, set it to 2 TBS per gallon, and thoroughly spray your plants and soil.
You can repeat this process once a week throughout the year for the best benefits.

EM-1 can also be applied to compost in order to speed up the process at a rate of one part EM-1 to 99 parts water (about two tsp per gallon of water).
Add this mixture to your compost until it is moist, but not soaked in order to accelerate the rate that the organic material breaks down.

Your piles can be infused up to eight times a year.

When not in use, EM-1 should be stored out of direct sunlight and at room temperature.
Don’t let the mixture freeze or overheat above 115 degrees F, as this will kill off most of the beneficial bacteria.
If you have plenty of EM-1 left but it’s approaching the “best by date” you can reactivate the mixture by adding in several tablespoons of blackstrap molasses to encourage a feeding frenzy and grow more microbes.
When properly taken care of, your EM1 supply can last you for years to come and work as an efficient and effective way to increase the natural vitality of your garden.
:)
Why be is there not a list anywhere online of good and bad fungi to get ?

I gamble with hey it must be ok smells like apple
But I got white moulds red moulds yellow green the lot I’m scared to use it haha
 

bye12

Member
I'm just in the process of starting with living soil and have started a batch of LAB ( lacto acid bacteria).
Pretty simple to do and should have some great benefits as well.
Lots of info out there on how to do it.
 

Growdo Baggins

Active member
I just recently started vermicomposting and my worm bin is going well but I picked up some kelp meal from a local feed store and I didn't notice but it has 750 PPM of iodine in it is that going to be safe for the worms?
 

Vandenberg

Well-known member

Bokashi Vermiculture​

Bokashi and vermiculture are great alternatives to composting. Bokashi Vermicomposting puts it all together!
IMGP5654-2-150x150.jpg

Composting. We’ve all done it. We save our leaves, weeds, kitchen scraps, haul manure, spoiled hay, you name it, and then build the pile, water the pile and turn it as often as we can. Composting is a fairly intensive process requiring the ingredients to have the correct C/N ratio in order to heat up yet decompose aerobically. Aerobic composting emits a surprising amount of greenhouse gases into the atmosphere. Compost piles need to be turned to keep the contents oxygenated and working quickly, plus they require a fair amount of space. And in our experience, they can attract rodents if food scraps are used.
Enter vermiculture and bokashi fermentation as alternatives to composting, especially in small gardens. Both methods are used to rapidly process food waste into a soil amendment. Both have their drawbacks; worms are picky about what they eat and do not eat raw food scraps very quickly, preferring rotten food to fresh. Bokashi fermented scraps should be used fairly quickly, and are wet, actually slimy. They aren’t the sort of thing you want to put a handful of under a transplant.
Enter Bokashi Vermiculture. We put the two processes together to get the best of both worlds. The result is a stable, high nitrogen soil amendment. Simply put, we use bokashi fermentation to process two vegetarian household’s fruit and vegetable kitchen waste, then feed the fermented mess to our worms who seem to thrive on it. The worms rapidly process the bokashi fermentation product into vermicompost. From kitchen to vermicompost takes less than 8 weeks in the warm season, which means we get more vermicompost in less time. It’s not a new idea, but then again no one else seems to be doing it.
Both bokashi fermentation and vermicomposting conserve nitrogen compared to aerobic composting, and the result is a high nitrogen, stable soil amendment. A handful under transplants in mineralized soil results in great veggies, like the Chinese cabbage in the picture.
There are plenty of places to buy worm bins and bokashi fermenters. We don’t use either of those, but instead put ours together out of inexpensive parts as described below. Ours is not a system for apartment living, but it could be scaled up or down depending on available space and raw organic matter.
The Worm Bin
Worm-setup-1-300x199.jpg

We have a simple 3′ x 5′ worm bin that is built into the side of a hill. The bottom and sides of the bin are cement backer board pieces left over from a bathroom tile project. The cement board does not absorb water and is solid on the bottom, helping keep the worms moist and any burrowing critters out. Anything solid could be used for the floor; we just used what was around. The cover is a plastic tarp with a second acrylic panel cover to help keep the sun from rotting the tarp. Being built into the hill helps to moderate the temperature in the bin – worms do their best between 70 – 80F but they survive from 38F to 95F. This bin has yet to go through a winter, although our coastal California winters are hardly cold. If we lived in a cold climate we might cover the whole thing with a thick layer of straw and let the worms go dormant for the cold season. If we lived in a wet climate we might not build it into a hill, and take more care to keep rain out.
worms-at-work-1-300x211.jpg

Our worms are red wigglers, a.k.a. compost worms, Eisenia fetida. Our first handful of worms came from a friend, eventually multiplying from just a few to really a lot. Reproduction does not happen overnight though, even though one adult worm can ultimately produce 10 babies a week. It takes 3 – 5 months for a worm to grow from egg to sexual maturity, so there can be a delay if you don’t start with enough worms. Other native decomposers like pillbugs, sowbugs and earwigs live in our bin, as do some extremely healthy looking lizards. In the picture to the right, uneaten bokashi fermented veggies are visible, which is why the worms are there.
We started our worm careers with a more traditional worm bin, the kind with stackable trays. This worked when we were feeding the worms just a few small scraps. The trouble is that most of our scraps are large (outer cabbage leaves, onion peels, carrot tops) and the little trays could not handle them. And although the tray system worked, it did not produce very much vermicompost. We consider our in-ground bin to be a real improvement.
Harvesting the Castings / Feeding the Worms
To harvest worm castings we move the darker, denser material to one side of the bin with a shovel. This allows the vermicompost material to dry out a little and the worms to move back to the center of the pile. After a couple of weeks we sift these castings into a bucket through an old nursery flat (about 1/2″ mesh) to get any undigested large chunks out like mango pits or avocado seeds. These go back in pile for further work by the worms.
The worms are ready to be fed when most of their food in a certain area has turned into dark castings. We shovel out the darker castings and worms leaving a layer of worms and castings at the bottom, then dump in up to 5 gallons of fermented bokashi, then cover the raw bokashi entirely with dark castings and worms. If there are not enough dark castings to cover the worms with, they are not ready to be fed. If dead leaves or other decaying plant material is available, it could be layered in with the bokashi.
At the same time we are feeding, we “fluff up” the active feeding sections of the pile by gently turning it with a shovel. The idea is to make sure that there are no large sections of undigested bokashi. Even though the bokashi ferment is anaerobic, the worms like to eat aerobicly digested food. It does not take long to convert the bokashi to worm food – contact with a little air will do it. Be forewarned; if you are feeding straight bokashi, this process is not completely smell free! The addition of dead leaves or partially decomposed regular compost at bokashi feeding time will make the “fluff” process more pleasant.
The Bokashi Fermentation Setup
There are many websites and stores now that sell bokashi fermentation supplies; we even saw a bokashi fermenter for sale at Whole Foods. These systems may work very well, but we made our own, including our initial batch of EM1 starter microbes.
Traditional bokashi composting is an anaerobic process using EM1 microbes to rapidly ferment raw organic matter (more about the microbes later). The raw organic matter, in our case kitchen scraps, is mixed with EM1 inoculated roughage, in our case wheat bran, and pushed down to remove all air (more about the bran later). The resulting mix is fermented in a sealed container for several weeks at room temperature.
bucket-o-bokashi-fermenting-1-300x262.jpg

The picture at right shows a brewing bucket with it’s inner plastic wrap seal off. We use a 5 gallon bucket with a sealable lid and cover the bokashi with a layer of thick plastic wrap before putting the lid on. Note that 5 gallons of solid food scraps and bran is heavy – it can weigh up to 40 pounds. It is possible to find smaller buckets or not fill them all the way up to reduce the weight.
Bokashi needs anaerobic conditions (no oxygen) and a little air can cause it to turn black, go bad and really stink. Properly fermented bokashi looks like sauerkraut, with all the original bits still identifiable, and has a vinegary smell that is no worse than sauerkraut. Commercial bokashi buckets have a drain at the bottom to remove liquid. We haven’t done that on ours; we just use solid buckets, and the bran helps to soak up any extra moisture.
We keep up to 4 buckets brewing while 2 buckets are being filled with new scraps. It takes about 2 weeks for us to fill a bucket, then the bokashi scraps ferment in the bucket for another 2 – 4 weeks, depending on whether the worms are ready to be fed or not. The bokashi bucket being filled is kept outside (the garage would be another candidate spot) and we keep a separate container in the kitchen to accumulate scraps. We also keep a container of bokashi bran to add to the kitchen scrap container. It helps to keep odors down in the kitchen. When we put scraps in the kitchen container, we add a little bran.

Vandenberg :)
 

Growdo Baggins

Active member

Bokashi Vermiculture​

Bokashi and vermiculture are great alternatives to composting. Bokashi Vermicomposting puts it all together!
IMGP5654-2-150x150.jpg

Composting. We’ve all done it. We save our leaves, weeds, kitchen scraps, haul manure, spoiled hay, you name it, and then build the pile, water the pile and turn it as often as we can. Composting is a fairly intensive process requiring the ingredients to have the correct C/N ratio in order to heat up yet decompose aerobically. Aerobic composting emits a surprising amount of greenhouse gases into the atmosphere. Compost piles need to be turned to keep the contents oxygenated and working quickly, plus they require a fair amount of space. And in our experience, they can attract rodents if food scraps are used.
Enter vermiculture and bokashi fermentation as alternatives to composting, especially in small gardens. Both methods are used to rapidly process food waste into a soil amendment. Both have their drawbacks; worms are picky about what they eat and do not eat raw food scraps very quickly, preferring rotten food to fresh. Bokashi fermented scraps should be used fairly quickly, and are wet, actually slimy. They aren’t the sort of thing you want to put a handful of under a transplant.
Enter Bokashi Vermiculture. We put the two processes together to get the best of both worlds. The result is a stable, high nitrogen soil amendment. Simply put, we use bokashi fermentation to process two vegetarian household’s fruit and vegetable kitchen waste, then feed the fermented mess to our worms who seem to thrive on it. The worms rapidly process the bokashi fermentation product into vermicompost. From kitchen to vermicompost takes less than 8 weeks in the warm season, which means we get more vermicompost in less time. It’s not a new idea, but then again no one else seems to be doing it.
Both bokashi fermentation and vermicomposting conserve nitrogen compared to aerobic composting, and the result is a high nitrogen, stable soil amendment. A handful under transplants in mineralized soil results in great veggies, like the Chinese cabbage in the picture.
There are plenty of places to buy worm bins and bokashi fermenters. We don’t use either of those, but instead put ours together out of inexpensive parts as described below. Ours is not a system for apartment living, but it could be scaled up or down depending on available space and raw organic matter.
The Worm Bin
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We have a simple 3′ x 5′ worm bin that is built into the side of a hill. The bottom and sides of the bin are cement backer board pieces left over from a bathroom tile project. The cement board does not absorb water and is solid on the bottom, helping keep the worms moist and any burrowing critters out. Anything solid could be used for the floor; we just used what was around. The cover is a plastic tarp with a second acrylic panel cover to help keep the sun from rotting the tarp. Being built into the hill helps to moderate the temperature in the bin – worms do their best between 70 – 80F but they survive from 38F to 95F. This bin has yet to go through a winter, although our coastal California winters are hardly cold. If we lived in a cold climate we might cover the whole thing with a thick layer of straw and let the worms go dormant for the cold season. If we lived in a wet climate we might not build it into a hill, and take more care to keep rain out.
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Our worms are red wigglers, a.k.a. compost worms, Eisenia fetida. Our first handful of worms came from a friend, eventually multiplying from just a few to really a lot. Reproduction does not happen overnight though, even though one adult worm can ultimately produce 10 babies a week. It takes 3 – 5 months for a worm to grow from egg to sexual maturity, so there can be a delay if you don’t start with enough worms. Other native decomposers like pillbugs, sowbugs and earwigs live in our bin, as do some extremely healthy looking lizards. In the picture to the right, uneaten bokashi fermented veggies are visible, which is why the worms are there.
We started our worm careers with a more traditional worm bin, the kind with stackable trays. This worked when we were feeding the worms just a few small scraps. The trouble is that most of our scraps are large (outer cabbage leaves, onion peels, carrot tops) and the little trays could not handle them. And although the tray system worked, it did not produce very much vermicompost. We consider our in-ground bin to be a real improvement.
Harvesting the Castings / Feeding the Worms
To harvest worm castings we move the darker, denser material to one side of the bin with a shovel. This allows the vermicompost material to dry out a little and the worms to move back to the center of the pile. After a couple of weeks we sift these castings into a bucket through an old nursery flat (about 1/2″ mesh) to get any undigested large chunks out like mango pits or avocado seeds. These go back in pile for further work by the worms.
The worms are ready to be fed when most of their food in a certain area has turned into dark castings. We shovel out the darker castings and worms leaving a layer of worms and castings at the bottom, then dump in up to 5 gallons of fermented bokashi, then cover the raw bokashi entirely with dark castings and worms. If there are not enough dark castings to cover the worms with, they are not ready to be fed. If dead leaves or other decaying plant material is available, it could be layered in with the bokashi.
At the same time we are feeding, we “fluff up” the active feeding sections of the pile by gently turning it with a shovel. The idea is to make sure that there are no large sections of undigested bokashi. Even though the bokashi ferment is anaerobic, the worms like to eat aerobicly digested food. It does not take long to convert the bokashi to worm food – contact with a little air will do it. Be forewarned; if you are feeding straight bokashi, this process is not completely smell free! The addition of dead leaves or partially decomposed regular compost at bokashi feeding time will make the “fluff” process more pleasant.
The Bokashi Fermentation Setup
There are many websites and stores now that sell bokashi fermentation supplies; we even saw a bokashi fermenter for sale at Whole Foods. These systems may work very well, but we made our own, including our initial batch of EM1 starter microbes.
Traditional bokashi composting is an anaerobic process using EM1 microbes to rapidly ferment raw organic matter (more about the microbes later). The raw organic matter, in our case kitchen scraps, is mixed with EM1 inoculated roughage, in our case wheat bran, and pushed down to remove all air (more about the bran later). The resulting mix is fermented in a sealed container for several weeks at room temperature.
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The picture at right shows a brewing bucket with it’s inner plastic wrap seal off. We use a 5 gallon bucket with a sealable lid and cover the bokashi with a layer of thick plastic wrap before putting the lid on. Note that 5 gallons of solid food scraps and bran is heavy – it can weigh up to 40 pounds. It is possible to find smaller buckets or not fill them all the way up to reduce the weight.
Bokashi needs anaerobic conditions (no oxygen) and a little air can cause it to turn black, go bad and really stink. Properly fermented bokashi looks like sauerkraut, with all the original bits still identifiable, and has a vinegary smell that is no worse than sauerkraut. Commercial bokashi buckets have a drain at the bottom to remove liquid. We haven’t done that on ours; we just use solid buckets, and the bran helps to soak up any extra moisture.
We keep up to 4 buckets brewing while 2 buckets are being filled with new scraps. It takes about 2 weeks for us to fill a bucket, then the bokashi scraps ferment in the bucket for another 2 – 4 weeks, depending on whether the worms are ready to be fed or not. The bokashi bucket being filled is kept outside (the garage would be another candidate spot) and we keep a separate container in the kitchen to accumulate scraps. We also keep a container of bokashi bran to add to the kitchen scrap container. It helps to keep odors down in the kitchen. When we put scraps in the kitchen container, we add a little bran.

Vandenberg :)
This post has been extremely helpful, thank you very much for making it. I just recently found that growabundant.com website and it's really a wealth of information. I also recently just finished the Intelligent Gardener and actually didn't know the 2 were connected at first. I didn't realize it was Erica Reinheimer. Thanks for this post.
 
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